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any tune 550 or 600 for GR86 RZ '21?
Not for the moment.any tune 550 or 600 for GR86 RZ '21?
"for the consumption i put eco at 6 short shifting"Audi TTS '14 - 700 PP - Racing hard tires - All around
I can do all the GR4 races ,like WTC 700 , for the consumption i put eco at 6 short shifting , or any 700PP race with roads cars.It very easy to drive . Fast as the lighting.. One another weapon.
-Wide body
-Aero Parts
-Skirts
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>((((°>°°°°°°
Enjoy your drive.
Fuel Management 6 - Manual Transmission - Short shift gears"for the consumption i put eco at 6 short shifting"
I am a beginner regarding this.
Does this mean that you change gear 6 in the auto gear box to stift gear earlier?
tried gr86 on suzuka and the oversteer is crazy! even with wide everythingNot for the moment.
Bugged.is ride height bugged or something so higher is better?
You can see that i use a lot of ECU to reduce HP. No need of the engine tuning for 700PP . It's just because i also test the full power option during my settings process.Phew! I was about to buy another NISMO assuming you hadn’t done internal upgrades. Thankfully I checked your sheets first.
First run was a hybrid of a Morse Monkey/Exeter hybrid tune and yours and I was not a fan of the results. Too many cooks in the kitchen I suppose. So I went purely with your tune and made my usual tweaks. She felt soooo much better, more like what I expect out of this car. Screwed the pooch with my fuel calculation and ran out of gas in L3 with an over-optimistic FM setting. Made the opposite mistake on 6/7 and didn’t burn enough. The tune is brilliant, the results should’ve been better. I would believe it if you told me you could crack 4:00 at Sarthe with an overall run time around 30:30, if not 30 flat.
Ultimately, I bought a new one anyway. Yours has internals, MM and Exe’s do not. Some day I’ll head-to-head them all as I do love driving this car and the economy is great for Sarthe.
A little late to the game ... I tried these settings and came in 17th (Not the best driver, using the PS5 controller). After lap 1, I was in 20th place. This mission sucks.Honda Beat '91 - 400PP - Comfort Soft Tires - Human comedy mission race
Rims size 13" - Rim Width Wide - Offset Wide
25laps , pit every 7 laps for gas and tires. Lap 2:20 with fresh tires 1 lap , decrease to 2:25 lap 7 at safe racing pace.
I've put manual transmission and no racing brakes or pads , to save some PP. Friends that use Auto trans can use it , Just shift at the limit of RPM.
I know the car is very high over the tarmac , no problem , it's not a ground effect car at all , if somebody don't like the look , just don't look at it , use bumper cam. Or buy a JEEP .
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To build the racing fully custom gearbox do like this.
1st : Bring the top speed to minimum full left 100 kmh
2d: set every individual gears from 6th to 1st at the ratios writen on the sheet
3rd: Set the final gear ratio to 5.714
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It seems i'm second place at 25 laps with the Honda Beat , and 4th place after others cars between my very fast friends.
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>((((°>°°°°°°
Enjoy your drive.
Practice. For this event , even with a good car , you need a good pace and showing regularity lap after lap. With hard level the race is not so difficult to complete.A little late to the game ... I tried these settings and came in 17th (Not the best driver, using the PS5 controller). After lap 1, I was in 20th place. This mission sucks.
Any additional tips?
Change to suzuki cappucinoA little late to the game ... I tried these settings and came in 17th (Not the best driver, using the PS5 controller). After lap 1, I was in 20th place. This mission sucks.
Any additional tips?
About your use of ECU vs. Restrictor, I always seem to get better numbers in the tuning sheets when I turn it down with the Restrictor. Is there something unseen going on that benefits turning the ECU down despite the better numbers ‘on paper’?You can see that i use a lot of ECU to reduce HP. No need of the engine tuning for 700PP . It's just because i also test the full power option during my settings process.
Such a fun drive, my man!! Enjoying it!Ford GT '06 - 700 PP - Racing Hard tires - All around
A real monster tuned together the Porsche GT3 RS '16 at same level. Same lap time on Suzuka or any kind of track. The ford have a superior top speed.
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>((((°>°°°°°°
Enjoy your drive.
Depending of the track and the kind of cars / engine. Restrictor favorite torque instead ECU power.About your use of ECU vs. Restrictor, I always seem to get better numbers in the tuning sheets when I turn it down with the Restrictor. Is there something unseen going on that benefits turning the ECU down despite the better numbers ‘on paper’?
A friend of mine uses to say "I like the cars that look like my girl: wide and low"Some men like it high...
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I used Cappuccino with lowered suspension and reduced HP and still won. Try that carA little late to the game ... I tried these settings and came in 17th (Not the best driver, using the PS5 controller). After lap 1, I was in 20th place. This mission sucks.
Any additional tips?
Not my kind of "idéal féminin" for sure , I'm a fan of Naomi Campbel since ever.A friend of mine uses to say "I like the cars that look like my girl: wide and low"
Ps: is translated from Spanish and we use 'bajo' both to define somebody who is short or something that is low
Do you drive with rear view option ? Or check the replay after the race ? Or use the replay to take some pics ?I used Cappuccino with lowered suspension and reduced HP and still won. Try that car
"For Le Mans you can't do 4 laps at FM6 , so 2 stops only."Nissan GT-R Nismo '17 - 700PP - Racing Hard Tires - All Tracks
The faster 700PP Road car on Nordschleife / Suzuka and most on tracks ..... For Le Mans you can't do 4 laps at FM6 , so 2 stops only.
Wide car
Rims up to you
Front A - Side A - Rear Standard - Wing A
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1- set auto speed at the minimum 320kmh
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>((((°>°°°°°°
Enjoy your drive.
This car is not the best option for the Le Mans event due to gas consumption. Anywhere else without this Gas consumption , it's a real beast. Easy to drive fast. In my opinion , i think that the best option is to drive without aids. Even more for 4WD cars. You can use traction control and Counter steer aid ON for very diffivult cars. The rest is very drivable without after a few practice. To progress , no aids ."For Le Mans you can't do 4 laps at FM6 , so 2 stops only."
I get 2,9 laps according to the "fuel meter". Could run 3 if I slowed down a bit here and there.
I wonder if one is supposed to be able to get 3 laps easy. And if I have missed a setting in the tune somewhere. I have done my best to double check.
But then, maybe there is a difference regarding the game settings?
I am a beginner and run with assists and probably in an easy mode if there was a difficulty setting.
I ran this car 7 times today, it can get 3 laps, but it is a very close 3 laps. I adjusted the trans at least 3 times and replaced the High Turbo with the Med Turbo to do it."For Le Mans you can't do 4 laps at FM6 , so 2 stops only."
I get 2,9 laps according to the "fuel meter". Could run 3 if I slowed down a bit here and there.
I wonder if one is supposed to be able to get 3 laps easy. And if I have missed a setting in the tune somewhere. I have done my best to double check.
But then, maybe there is a difference regarding the game settings?
I am a beginner and run with assists and probably in an easy mode if there was a difficulty setting.
Yes to all 3 questions. Why? A bit confused as to how is this relevant 🙂Do you drive with rear view option ? Or check the replay after the race ? Or use the replay to take some pics ?
Because for me i would answer NO to all the questions , so if i drive a Subaru or Nissan GT-R , i'll see the hood only ,so i don't care about ride height.Yes to all 3 questions. Why? A bit confused as to how is this relevant 🙂
Ah, understood. I also like to admire cars in the garage and scapes so it's a must for a car to look good.Because for me i would answer NO to all the questions , so if i drive a Subaru or Nissan GT-R , i'll see the hood only ,so i don't care about ride height.
For more complaints , just need to ask for the boss Mister Kaz.
Just in case it is not clear about what "short shifting"is, it means that you shift earlier than at the red line on the tachometer. If you look at the spec sheet on the car, it gives horsepower and the RPM at which that horsepower is achieved. The next line under the horsepower is the maximum torque and the RPM for that value. It works well to shift somewhere around the max torque value if possible. That way you still get good acceleration but save fuel."for the consumption i put eco at 6 short shifting"
I am a beginner regarding this.
Does this mean that you change gear 6 in the auto gear box to stift gear earlier?