Project CARS - Logitech Wheels NOT Supported on PS4

  • Thread starter biffdiver
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GTAndy36
Also, some people insisted to use the strongest FFB settings back on GT5 if I'm remembering correctly... which simply ruined wheels... and it wasn't realistic either. It felt like you were steering an 18-wheeler without power steering. Daft.
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I have always set FFB to 10, & my G25 is coming up for 6 years old & still going strong. The FFB in GT games is very weak compared to reality for cars that gave no power steering.
 
VBR
I have always set FFB to 10, & my G25 is coming up for 6 years old & still going strong. The FFB in GT games is very weak compared to reality for cars that gave no power steering.
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The FFB is weak in GT6... I wouldn't say it's weak in GT5... not for strength. I had my DFGT set on 6-7 on GT5.

As you say though, some people are just heavy handed. God knows what they would do in real cars. (Well some GT Academy stories have told us what some of them ruined!)
 
In GT5 (maybe less so in 6), FFB at 10 is way too strong compared to real life IMO, even for cars without power steering, or even the few race cars I have driven in real life (Formula Ford, 911 GT2). People often turn up the FFB power because FFB detail is lacking. But one can't compensate for the other.

But I would also say it's how the wheel is treated rather than the amount of FFB that is used, combined with infancy issues in new products.
 
GTAndy36
The FFB is weak in GT6... I wouldn't say it's weak in GT5... not for strength. I had my DFGT set on 6-7 on GT5.
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I drove a Caterham 7 Superlight & Clio Cup race race car at a track day at Palmer Sports up at the Bedford Autodrome in 2009, the steering was so heavy that I was aching for days afterwards! Even GT5's FFB set to 10 was no where near as strong as what I experienced then. Too be honest, it was a rude awakening going from GT to reality as regards that.
 
Simfan David
Hey guys. I bought my t300 about a month ago and the only issue I had was the pedals. The potentiometer on the brake was malfunctioning so I contacted customer service. After I updated the wheel and still no difference in the brake, I knew that wouldn't work, I had to send a video showing the brake being pressed and the t300 software showing that the brake was not working. They immediately sent me a new set of pedals. Took about a week. All in all I have to say even though disappointed about the issue, there customer service was great. I've put some time into driveclub with no other issues. Great wheel!! I highly recommend it. Well it's the only option for ps4. But a good one at that. I would like to ad that I cut a small piece of a dense foam ball and stuck it in the space between the brake arm and back stop. Added some good progression to it. Works like a charm. When I get home I'll take some pics and post.👍
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On my first set of pedals, the brake pedal stopped working after about a month. I disassembled the pedals and found that one of the cables was not properly soldered to the potentiometer. So if you still have your first set of pedals it might be an easy fix to get them running again.

In my case there also was an issue with the wheel, so i got everything replaced.
 
blowfishrulez
I have to disagree. It depends on the wheel obviously. If you turn GT6 FFB to 10/10 on the T300, you will get two things: FFB Clipping and Center Oscillation. Both are very undesireable, thats why i have mine set to 4/6.
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Oh right. I haven't given GT6 a proper drive out on the T300 to be honest. Just a quick drive in the NSX. My 10/10 settings were on the DFGT, anything else felt numb and weak.
 
VincentVegaSWE
On my first set of pedals, the brake pedal stopped working after about a month. I disassembled the pedals and found that one of the cables was not properly soldered to the potentiometer. So if you still have your first set of pedals it might be an easy fix to get them running again.

In my case there also was an issue with the wheel, so i got everything replaced.
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I myself disassembled and figured that was it. Now that I have my new set, I'll try to fix it. Thanks for the info. Also what happened to your wheel? Just in case mine has any issues. So far my wheels been working fine.
 
Simfan David
I myself disassembled and figured that was it. Now that I have my new set, I'll try to fix it. Thanks for the info. Also what happened to your wheel? Just in case mine has any issues. So far my wheels been working fine.
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Good to know. I have read a lot of reports about malfunctioning potentiometers. So if it's usually just a case of bad soldering, most people might be able to fix it on their own.

The cooling fan in the wheel base made an awful noise the first minutes it revved up after idle.
 
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GT6 FFB is most definitely not weak on a T500 (not tried with my T300). I usually use FFBtorque=2 and FFBsensitivity=1 on my T500 and it still kicks hard when in race cars. Anything above FFBtorque=3 is fierce :)

The G27 FFB path may be weak, but I assure you the Thrustmaster path is very different.....
 
GTAndy36
FFB in 6 is totally different. Setting both options to 10/10 is as best as it's going to get.
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Well, I made the mistake of leaving the FFB on 10-10 when I first used the Thrustmaster as this was what the DFGT was originally on.
It felt like both front tyres were flat and the power steering had failed it was that heavy.
Even with 5-5, the Thrustmaster is quite heavy but has loads of feel, more so than the DFGT on the same setting, but more importantly, it has better communication in relation to what the car/tyres is doing.
 
it would be good if project cars could give us recommended settings for each wheel, to make it feel as real as possible, because none of us are going to agree on whats best, as we all have our preferences.
 
shoemaker
it would be good if project cars could give us recommended settings for each wheel, to make it feel as real as possible, because none of us are going to agree on whats best, as we all have our preferences.
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"...as we all have our preferences.", I think you answered your own question. How can SMS give recommendations if none of us are going to agree on whats best anyway. FYI, I find the defaults, at least for the Thrustmaster TX, work pretty well.
 
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FuzzyFassbender
"...as we all have our preferences.", I think you answered your own question. How can SMS give us recommendations if none of use is going to agree on whats best anyway. FYI, I find the defaults, at least for the Thrustmaster TX, to work pretty well.
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because i would like to know exactly what the best wheel settings are for the most realistic experience. is default what the developers recommend for best experience and any more or less ffb is entirely up to us ?
 
thegt500
Well, I made the mistake of leaving the FFB on 10-10 when I first used the Thrustmaster as this was what the DFGT was originally on.
It felt like both front tyres were flat and the power steering had failed it was that heavy.
Even with 5-5, the Thrustmaster is quite heavy but has loads of feel, more so than the DFGT on the same setting, but more importantly, it has better communication in relation to what the car/tyres is doing.
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I will give this a go then today. :cheers:
 
Johnnypenso
That's the price in Canada.
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Also the listed price of the T300 on Newegg in the US.
shrug.gif
 
Johnnypenso
I think we need more posts like this in this thread. It's so easy for us to focus on the one or two guys that pop in and say they are having problems and of course we need that feedback too, but there could be 20, 30, 50 or more good experiences for every bad, but if we don't hear more about them, we only focus on the bad and it distorts our perception.

Tell your friends to post here too:idea:
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While I had an issue with my T3PA add on pedals which Thrustmaster replaced, my T300RS itself (and included pedals when used) have performed faultlessly since I got them approximately 6 months ago.

Also the TH8A 8 way gear stick/ shifter has had no faults although I only use it on PC. GT5/6 have useless clutch modelling. Has anyone tried it with Grid Autosport?

Incidentally the T300GTE is currently £232 ($350 US) dollars on ebay uk. It's worth considering as that rim has more buttons well positioned closer to the thumbs although no more buttons overall.
 
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JohnScoonsBeard
While I had an issue with my T3PA add on pedals which Thrustmaster replaced, my T300RS itself (and included pedals when used) have performed faultlessly since I got them approximately 6 months ago.

Also the TH8A 8 way gear stick/ shifter has had no faults although I only use it on PC. GT5/6 have useless clutch modelling. Has anyone tried it with Grid Autosport?

Incidentally the T300GTE is currently £232 ($350 US) dollars on ebay uk. It's worth considering as that rim has more buttons well positioned closer to the thumbs although no more buttons overall.
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The only thing with the RS rim, is if you would consider modding it with a real rim, the GTE rim is the one to go for, because of the button positions. You'll only lose the D-Pad rather than losing the D-Pad and the 4 main buttons.

Just something to remember.
 
GTAndy36
The only thing with the RS rim, is if you would consider modding it with a real rim, the GTE rim is the one to go for, because of the button positions. You'll only lose the D-Pad rather than losing the D-Pad and the 4 main buttons.

Just something to remember.
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Andy what button are you loosing on the GTE compared to the RS. Just wondering as I'm ordering this week. I like the button positions on the GTE.
 

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