GilesGuthrie
Staff Emeritus
- 11,038
- Edinburgh, UK
- CMDRTheDarkLord
What chassis is it?
R/C Cars
- Thread starter mr_pushrod
- 216 comments
- 10,193 views
What chassis is it?
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
Iwill find out.
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
A noisy electric? Interesting
Is the Mercedes electric or nitro, 4wd or 2wd, do you know who it is made by? If you want more turn in on the Landmax, go for harder springs on the back. This will give more oversteer by effectively reducing grip at the back. The same effect can be gained by softening the front, with this giving more grip to the nose
Is the Mercedes electric or nitro, 4wd or 2wd, do you know who it is made by? If you want more turn in on the Landmax, go for harder springs on the back. This will give more oversteer by effectively reducing grip at the back. The same effect can be gained by softening the front, with this giving more grip to the nose- 6
thats a nice bmw
GilesGuthrie
Staff Emeritus
- 11,038
- Edinburgh, UK
- CMDRTheDarkLord
Originally posted by mr_pushrod
A noisy electric? Interesting
In which case you would definitely want to soften the front, so you can induce the oversteer on turn-in, that way you turn quickly, and then DRIVE the car through the turn with a relatively shallow steering angle, but plenty of throttle!
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
Is a Traxxas 4-Tec any good? Not nitro, I am thinking of getting one. The Mercedes is a MA Toys car, I am selling both my Audi, and Merc though, they are good but both have no engine but they come with them.
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
The 4-tec is ok, although the drivetrain is quite exposed so it can eat belts. A Kyosho Alpha EP2 is better if you are going to be using the car on rougher surfaces.
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
I live in a coldasack, so it is a very smooth surface. Just repaved!
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
You should be fine then, how much can you get one for?
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
You can buy a Traxxas 4-Tec for 179 ready to run!
- 786
I was walking past a store in Hollywood earlier tonight and saw a nice looking Mercedes CLK DTM car for $19.99. (and thought It was probably worth it too 
)....
But it renewed my intrest in R/C cars.
How would I get started?
I like the Touring Championship car bodies (British & Japanese):
Audi A/S 4
BMW
MB CLK
Impreza
Lancer
I've seen the "shells" (bodies) sold as clear plastic, at the shops I used to buy my model car supplies.
*painting is another story....I'm REALLY good at painting, but read you need to paint the clear bodies from the inside????*
Where do I go from there?
How do I select the "base", (what the body sits on)?
--------------------
Lets say, I wanted to buy an Audi body/shell.
What would I do next?
I've read about 17 and 27 motors, 17 having more tq, but 27's having more top speed. I don't need top speed and would like more TQ. (sorry if the #'s are a little wrong)
.......also, how "plyable" (ply-able) is the plastic on the RC Car shells? I'm pretty experiences in creating/moulding plastics, would I be able to extend or add-on fender-flares to an RC shell? And, extend the wheelbase?
Sorry for the Newbie questions. But seeing that MB CLK brang back some good 'ol memories.
)....But it renewed my intrest in R/C cars.
How would I get started?
I like the Touring Championship car bodies (British & Japanese):
Audi A/S 4
BMW
MB CLK
Impreza
Lancer
I've seen the "shells" (bodies) sold as clear plastic, at the shops I used to buy my model car supplies.
*painting is another story....I'm REALLY good at painting, but read you need to paint the clear bodies from the inside????*
Where do I go from there?
How do I select the "base", (what the body sits on)?
--------------------
Lets say, I wanted to buy an Audi body/shell.
What would I do next?
I've read about 17 and 27 motors, 17 having more tq, but 27's having more top speed. I don't need top speed and would like more TQ. (sorry if the #'s are a little wrong)
.......also, how "plyable" (ply-able) is the plastic on the RC Car shells? I'm pretty experiences in creating/moulding plastics, would I be able to extend or add-on fender-flares to an RC shell? And, extend the wheelbase?
Sorry for the Newbie questions.
But seeing that MB CLK brang back some good 'ol memories.
- 786
BTW.......if I got that cheap (I dunno the *real* price, since most shops in Hollywood by their products off stolen trucks) CLK RC I saw at that shop, would you think there'd be any chance that I could swap out motors? It already has rubber tires (F1 slicks)
I have experience in Industrial Tech, so bending small air-spoilers won't be a problem.
Any Imput would be greatly appreciated.
I have experience in Industrial Tech, so bending small air-spoilers won't be a problem.
Any Imput would be greatly appreciated.
- 786
Originally posted by I Dont Want Friends
I had an hpi skyline nitro. I returned it though and got a rc10t3 but someone jacked it from me. I live like 3 mins away from the tamiya factory so if i want something i can go there and buy it!! I had a mini cooper tamiya and also a f150!!! Dont be jealous.
Where's the Tamiya factory? I live in LA, but split time between here an San Diego....
Where's Tamiya? I, or my wife, might stop by and pick up a body or an engine.
- 786
BTW......I don't care about the LED's (Headlights, Taillightlns, bliinkers,ect...ect...ect...I can do thta myselt..
I'm just looking for something to get me started. Something "touring-style like". Power is not a concern. A it will all....Errr....mostly , be up-graded later on.
I have no intention on entering any competetion, just annt to run it around for run.
I'm just looking for something to get me started. Something "touring-style like". Power is not a concern. A it will all....Errr....mostly , be up-graded later on.
I have no intention on entering any competetion, just annt to run it around for run.
- 786
Obviously, I'm looking for a FWD car.
I'm sorry if I read off the great info already posted by knowledegeable people.....
But I'm asking your advic.
I don't /need/need lots of speed.. i want lots of tourque. That's why I'm looking fot a DTM-type car.
A WRZX or a Lancer will do nicecly since I visivit Torry Pinces/Del Mar/Carles bad prett often dn the sand jump would be bice.
So, my mind is set on a Lander.WRD. or CLK w/ adjustable suspension.
Anyone's imput would be grreast appreviati
I'm sorry if I read off the great info already posted by knowledegeable people.....
But I'm asking your advic.
I don't /need/need lots of speed.. i want lots of tourque. That's why I'm looking fot a DTM-type car.
A WRZX or a Lancer will do nicecly since I visivit Torry Pinces/Del Mar/Carles bad prett often dn the sand jump would be bice.
So, my mind is set on a Lander.WRD. or CLK w/ adjustable suspension.
Anyone's imput would be grreast appreviati
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
I have all the same questions you got!
- 197
17 turn motors are mod motors. 27 turn motors are stock motors.
The lower the the turn the less run time you get, but with more power. 27 turn motors don't always have more tourqe. It all depends on the wind.
A single wind will have loads of tourqe but not as much top end. A quad wind is just the opposite.
Don't get a car just because you like the body. Do some research on the car before you buy it. I hope this helped a little!!
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
So, how long would a 27 turn motor last?
- 197
It depends on the battery and you're driving style.
There are two types of batteries. NiCD and NiMH. NiCD have more punch to them, but when they die, they die in a hurry. With NiMH you get more run time but not as punch. And when they die, they don't drop off as quick as Nicd's. But you need a charger that can handle them.
You can get nicd's as big as 2400 mah and nimh's as big as 3300mah.
If you like go WOT (wide open throttle) all the time you're run time is not going to be as good as it could be.
I don't know how much run time you would get. With my monster truck, I get about 7 min. of run time with a 2000 mah battery. And I like to go WOT quite a bit.
I don't run electric to much more because I like my nirto truck to much
- 786
Originally posted by Option2
Obviously, I'm looking for a FWD car.
I'm sorry if I missed any the great info already posted by knowledegeable people.....
But I'm asking your advice.
I don't need lots of speed.. i want some tourque. That's why I'm looking for a DTM-type car.
So, my mind is set on a Lander, WRD, or CLK w/ adjustable suspension.
Anyone's imput would be greatly apreciated
*edited because of my drunken misspelling and grammer*
Well I was getting interested in this not so long ago and I have some links:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/index.asp
http://nascart.com/sedan
http://www.rcxotic.com
http://www.balackracing.com/index.htm
I havent been to these sites in quite a while so I can't remember what they're about but they all have good information.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/index.asp
http://nascart.com/sedan
http://www.rcxotic.com
http://www.balackracing.com/index.htm
I havent been to these sites in quite a while so I can't remember what they're about but they all have good information.
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
Here are some sites for companies big in r/c:
http://www.tamiya.com - One of the biggest names in the r/c business. Good entry level cars.
http://www.kyosho.com - Another big name, also good entry level cars.
http://www.hpiracing.com - More race orientated cars, spares service poor in uk though. Also offer a wide range of bodyshells.
http://www.towerhobbies.com - An american online hobby shop, good range avaliable.
Option2, chances are that if it is $19.99, it's probably a 'toy' r/c. This means it will be slow, impossible to upgrade and not very strong. Plus if you break it, you won't be able to get spares. There are plenty of different shells avaliable, many on the same chassis. For instance, the Tamiya TL-01 a good, easy to build, fully upgradable entry level 'proper' r/c is avaliable with a wide range of shells. For instance you can get the R34 Calsonic Skyline JGTC, Tom's Castrol Supra JGTC, Subaru Impreza WRC, Ferarri 360 Modena as well as plenty more (check the Tamiya website for the full range). You do paint the shells on the inside with a special flexible paint although it is not too hard to do. Also many shells come with plenty of stickers so you can get a good looking shell by painting one colour and adding the stickers. The shells are pretty bendy although do crack over time although they are less than £20 to buy in the UK (check tower hobbies for US prices).
Selecting the chassis is the most important part when deciding what car to buy. Most good touring or rally cars are 4WD now, with only a few being FWD. I personally prefer 4WD to FWD or RWD as even the entry level cars will do 20mph out of the box. I have 2WD cars and you end up with wheelspin half the time, with 4WD you have much less. Thats not to say they aren't fun, you can get into some awesome drifts if you want, it's just that 4WD makes the car much nicer and easier to drive. In terms of price, you are looking about £160ish pounds for a good entry level 4WD touring car in the uk. At a guess, you will be looking at about $160 as kits tend to be cheaper in the US. Make sure you get a deal though, if you get just the kit you won't have radio, battery or charger in the majority of cases. Read what you get for the money!
The Tamiya factory is in Japan (I am pretty sure) although there are distribution centres all over the world (correct me if wrong I don't want friends!). I wouldn't worry about going to the factory, they almost certain would sell direct anyway. Your best bet is a local hobby shop as they will be able to give advice face to face, or get your stuff from tower hobbies. I work in a model shop and plenty of people here have cars so advice is not a problem. If you are looking at running your car off road, I wouldn't get a touring car though, they are two low. Rallycars are avaliable if you want something that looks like a car but can do a little offroad. If you want to go serious offroading though, a buggy or moster truck would be a better bet as they are designed to cope with it. Whatever you get, don't run it in sand! That is unless you want to frequently strip the car and replace parts, it accelerates wear very quickly!
Hope this helps
mr_p
http://www.tamiya.com - One of the biggest names in the r/c business. Good entry level cars.
http://www.kyosho.com - Another big name, also good entry level cars.
http://www.hpiracing.com - More race orientated cars, spares service poor in uk though. Also offer a wide range of bodyshells.
http://www.towerhobbies.com - An american online hobby shop, good range avaliable.
Option2, chances are that if it is $19.99, it's probably a 'toy' r/c. This means it will be slow, impossible to upgrade and not very strong. Plus if you break it, you won't be able to get spares. There are plenty of different shells avaliable, many on the same chassis. For instance, the Tamiya TL-01 a good, easy to build, fully upgradable entry level 'proper' r/c is avaliable with a wide range of shells. For instance you can get the R34 Calsonic Skyline JGTC, Tom's Castrol Supra JGTC, Subaru Impreza WRC, Ferarri 360 Modena as well as plenty more (check the Tamiya website for the full range). You do paint the shells on the inside with a special flexible paint although it is not too hard to do. Also many shells come with plenty of stickers so you can get a good looking shell by painting one colour and adding the stickers. The shells are pretty bendy although do crack over time although they are less than £20 to buy in the UK (check tower hobbies for US prices).
Selecting the chassis is the most important part when deciding what car to buy. Most good touring or rally cars are 4WD now, with only a few being FWD. I personally prefer 4WD to FWD or RWD as even the entry level cars will do 20mph out of the box. I have 2WD cars and you end up with wheelspin half the time, with 4WD you have much less. Thats not to say they aren't fun, you can get into some awesome drifts if you want, it's just that 4WD makes the car much nicer and easier to drive. In terms of price, you are looking about £160ish pounds for a good entry level 4WD touring car in the uk. At a guess, you will be looking at about $160 as kits tend to be cheaper in the US. Make sure you get a deal though, if you get just the kit you won't have radio, battery or charger in the majority of cases. Read what you get for the money!
The Tamiya factory is in Japan (I am pretty sure) although there are distribution centres all over the world (correct me if wrong I don't want friends!). I wouldn't worry about going to the factory, they almost certain would sell direct anyway. Your best bet is a local hobby shop as they will be able to give advice face to face, or get your stuff from tower hobbies. I work in a model shop and plenty of people here have cars so advice is not a problem. If you are looking at running your car off road, I wouldn't get a touring car though, they are two low. Rallycars are avaliable if you want something that looks like a car but can do a little offroad. If you want to go serious offroading though, a buggy or moster truck would be a better bet as they are designed to cope with it. Whatever you get, don't run it in sand! That is unless you want to frequently strip the car and replace parts, it accelerates wear very quickly!
Hope this helps
mr_p
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
Hey!
Good info! I am thinking of getting a Tamiya TLO1, could I put an HPI body on it?
Good info! I am thinking of getting a Tamiya TLO1, could I put an HPI body on it?
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
As long as the shell is 190mm you are ok generally. However, because the TL-01 has a high chassis, you will find that gt cars such as Ferraris and Porsches may not fit well at all, with a big gap over the front wheelarches. Generally if you keep to touring/rally cars you are ok. If you want to be sure, try the shell on the car before you cut or spray so you can take it back if need be.
BTW, good choice on the TL-01. There are cheaper and better equipped cars out there, but the TL-01 is really solid and can be upgraded easily. If you can, get the Mugen Integra as it has some good upgrades on it as standard that you don't get with the other versions.
BTW, good choice on the TL-01. There are cheaper and better equipped cars out there, but the TL-01 is really solid and can be upgraded easily. If you can, get the Mugen Integra as it has some good upgrades on it as standard that you don't get with the other versions.
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
tHANKS! I am thinking right now a Mugen NSX, I didnt see an Integra.
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
Another thing on the TLO1. The kit does not have everything rtr right? I also put in my 'basket' these things: Will they be all I need?
Tamiya R/C Castrol Mugen NSX TL01 4WD
Airtronics Blazer Sport D/R 2ch AM (1 Sx) Ch62
Trinity 6 Cell AMP Max 2 1500 Sport Pack
Pro Max AC/DC Auto Charger No-Meter
I have scissors, glue, etc at home.
Tamiya R/C Castrol Mugen NSX TL01 4WD
Airtronics Blazer Sport D/R 2ch AM (1 Sx) Ch62
Trinity 6 Cell AMP Max 2 1500 Sport Pack
Pro Max AC/DC Auto Charger No-Meter
I have scissors, glue, etc at home.
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
It's hard to find on the site, I think they are keeping it quiet because it is a bargain! Bascally, it's not a normal TL-01, it's a TL-01LA. This means you get long suspension arms (the car is the same width but the wishbones are longer giving better handling) and adjustable suspension components for pretty much the same cost as a normal TL-01 even though it comes with about £50 of upgrades.
- 1,803
- mr_pushrod
Unless it is a TL-01 XB then it won't have eveything. Therefore on top of those bits you will need paint for the shell, I'd go with Tamiya PS sprays as they are easy to use and stick the best. It will tell you in the manual which sprays you need.
- 1,034
- Athens,Ga
- simtibb
Thanks
!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!
