SIMUCUBE 2 Direct Drive Force Feedback Wheel Bases

  • Thread starter super_gt
  • 198 comments
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LearnersPermit
Yes, if you are referring to GIMX then yes I know but currently don’t have a laptop to run the software. I was using it up until I got my podium wheel
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Oh I see. OK disregard then. However, IMHO, you can pick up an old laptop super cheap these days on ebay. Totally worth it to be able to use a SC2 on PS4.
 
isamu
Oh I see. OK disregard then. However, IMHO, you can pick up an old laptop super cheap these days on ebay. Totally worth it to be able to use a SC2 on PS4.
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So which SimuCube 2 did you get?
What did you do to the Leo Bodnar you had before? And finally if you did buy a SC2 how does it compare to the Bodnar system?
 
LearnersPermit
So which SimuCube 2 did you get?
What did you do to the Leo Bodnar you had before? And finally if you did buy a SC2 how does it compare to the Bodnar system?
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Sorry man, I didn't mean to imply I own a SC2. I still own my Bodnar, am very happy with, and can use it on PS4 to this day with no problems. I was stating that for anyone out there with an SC2, it would be worth getting a cheap laptop and install GIMX on it if you really want to play GT Sport with such a high quality dd wheel. If my Bodnar, as well as other OSW wheels can work on PS4 via GIMX, then most certainly the SC2 will as well(may have to tweak a few small things here and there of course).

As for which DD system is better between the two, there are a few posts on the iracing forum that indicate the SC2 is the better wheel, particularly from veterans such as Beano. I believe it....I mean, the Bodnar is getting long in the tooth now and the king was bound to be dethroned eventually :D But guess what??? I'm still keeping my Bodnar at the end of the day. I'm not particularly fond of certain aspects of the design of the SC2, namely the two power supply configuration, the very short cables going to them, and the weird quick release hub they have.
 
super_gt
DriveHub does not work with other DD wheels except Fanatec DD1/2.
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DriveHub is also limited to whatever wheel base they reverse engineered. Fanatec could implement new features into their SDK, as they have already stated they would in the future when new wheels come out, that could be implemented by developers into PS4 titles.
 
isamu
Sorry man, I didn't mean to imply I own a SC2. I still own my Bodnar, am very happy with, and can use it on PS4 to this day with no problems. I was stating that for anyone out there with an SC2, it would be worth getting a cheap laptop and install GIMX on it if you really want to play GT Sport with such a high quality dd wheel. If my Bodnar, as well as other OSW wheels can work on PS4 via GIMX, then most certainly the SC2 will as well(may have to tweak a few small things here and there of course).

As for which DD system is better between the two, there are a few posts on the iracing forum that indicate the SC2 is the better wheel, particularly from veterans such as Beano. I believe it....I mean, the Bodnar is getting long in the tooth now and the king was bound to be dethroned eventually :D But guess what??? I'm still keeping my Bodnar at the end of the day. I'm not particularly fond of certain aspects of the design of the SC2, namely the two power supply configuration, the very short cables going to them, and the weird quick release hub they have.
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Ok got it.
Yeah I knew you had the Bodnar because you helped me 2 years ago set my Bodnar V2 54 with GIMX. I still have mine as well and I just bought the PS4 DD because I thought it would feel better than the Bodnar with GIMX (sadly it doesn't) since it's a PS4 wheel natively. There are rumors that a new Bodnar is coming out so I'm waiting to read more about it and If possible I will send my current one in if upgradeability is possible like they did with the V1 to V2 like Barry from Sim Racing Garage did.
 
LearnersPermit
Ok got it.
Yeah I knew you had the Bodnar because you helped me 2 years ago set my Bodnar V2 54 with GIMX. I still have mine as well and I just bought the PS4 DD because I thought it would feel better than the Bodnar with GIMX (sadly it doesn't) since it's a PS4 wheel natively. There are rumors that a new Bodnar is coming out so I'm waiting to read more about it and If possible I will send my current one in if upgradeability is possible like they did with the V1 to V2 like Barry from Sim Racing Garage did.
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No problem mate I agree. Wow so when you say you bought the PS4 dd which wheel are you specifically referrfing to? The Fanatic Podium? If so, then are you saying the FFB from the Fanatec Podium DD in GT Sport feels about the same as it does when using the Bodnar via GIMX? WOW!!!!!

Also, where did you hear the rumor about the new Bodnar wheel coming? Link?
 
isamu
No problem mate I agree. Wow so when you say you bought the PS4 dd which wheel are you specifically referrfing to? The Fanatic Podium? If so, then are you saying the FFB from the Fanatec Podium DD in GT Sport feels about the same as it does when using the Bodnar via GIMX? WOW!!!!!

Also, where did you hear the rumor about the new Bodnar wheel coming? Link?
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No, I'm saying the Bodnar and GIMX feel a lot better than the Fanatec Podium DD at the moment I'm still waiting on the new software other wise I would sell the PS4 DD and go back to GIMX and SimSteering 2
The rumor was just a misunderstanding sorry.
 
LearnersPermit
No, I'm saying the Bodnar and GIMX feel a lot better than the Fanatec Podium DD at the moment I'm still waiting on the new software other wise I would sell the PS4 DD and go back to GIMX and SimSteering 2
The rumor was just a misunderstanding sorry.
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Ahh OK no worries.
 
No you idiot, don't remove the grease from the Morse or machine taper - You'll have great difficulty separating the two halves in the future as I doubt they use a non ferrous steel for the shaft or sleeves- the ideal is to use a smear of copper based grease when reassembling to combat against any future oxidation.....
 
bluepeter
No you idiot, don't remove the grease from the Morse or machine taper - You'll have great difficulty separating the two halves in the future as I doubt they use a non ferrous steel for the shaft or sleeves- the ideal is to use a smear of copper based grease when reassembling to combat against any future oxidation.....
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In fact, this was recommended by the manufacturer because some of the steering wheels lost their center:

Most likely the step of de-greasing the shaft has been missed in the assembly process. This is a mistake and we are working to correct this in production.
You should remove the whole shaft coupler and de-grease the shaft and the coupler using alcohol-based cleaner.

And please refrain from insulting the people, your engineering capabilities does not make you an alien or superior human being.
 
super_gt
In fact, this was recommended by the manufacturer because some of the steering wheels lost their center:

Most likely the step of de-greasing the shaft has been missed in the assembly process. This is a mistake and we are working to correct this in production.
You should remove the whole shaft coupler and de-grease the shaft and the coupler using alcohol-based cleaner.

And please refrain from insulting the people, your engineering capabilities does not make you an alien or superior human being.
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Sorry, I stand by my statement - poor design again then.... if the shaft needs to retain center then it needs to be on a keyway or spline but Morse tapers unless regularly broken should not be assembled dry, go read up on it it's vey basic engineering... Mr know-it-all... 'bimetallic coupling' would make a good starting point for you....
 
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bluepeter
Sorry, I stand by my statement - poor design again then.... if the shaft needs to retain center then it needs to be on a keyway or spline but Morse tapers unless regularly broken should not be assembled dry
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You seem to have much more knowledge than the manufacturer of the SC2, they must throw away the SC2 of the garbage and hire you to develop a SC3. :P :lol:
bluepeter
Mr know-it-all...
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I like that. 👍
 
super_gt
You seem to have much more knowledge than the manufacturer of the SC2
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In this instance I do... ;)

They would have done well to avoid solely using a compression fitting between wheel & shaft. I suspect the original motor was never intended for this task....

One would like to think they did some load calculations?

I could certainly design a better coupling for them but it's a bit below my pay grade.... :)
 
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bluepeter
In this instance I do... ;)
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By looking at your behavior in the forum slowly but surely my doubts that you are not a highly qualified well educated middle-aged engineer for which you represent your self is beginning to grow.
bluepeter
They would have done well to avoid solely using a compression fitting between wheel & shaft. I suspect the original motor was never intended for this task....
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People have been using it for years (compression fittings) with SC1 without problems, but you show up to teach them that they are wrong and they actually have a problem.
 
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super_gt
By looking at your behavior in the forum slowly but surely my doubts that you are a highly qualified well educated middle-aged engineer for which you represent your self is beginning to grow.

People have been using it for years (compression fittings) with SC1 without problems, but you show up to teach them that they are wrong and they actually have a problem.
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Place your faith in it then and go spend your money - it's a free world....

My last comment on the subject - Just thank your lucky stars that they don't use this design to attach the steering wheel on your road car eh!!!!! lol.
 
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bluepeter
No you idiot, don't remove the grease from the Morse or machine taper - You'll have great difficulty separating the two halves in the future as I doubt they use a non ferrous steel for the shaft or sleeves- the ideal is to use a smear of copper based grease when reassembling to combat against any future oxidation.....
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Not agree with that , put grease or anti seize on shaft is not good idea , it will reduce the fiction between shaft and clamp , In case it get rust by time , I don’t think it will be a mission impossible to get it out
 
bluepeter
Sorry, I stand by my statement - poor design again then.... if the shaft needs to retain center then it needs to be on a keyway or spline but Morse tapers unless regularly broken should not be assembled dry, go read up on it it's vey basic engineering... Mr know-it-all... 'bimetallic coupling' would make a good starting point for you....
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Although sc2 are custom made (all in one) direct drive , but the motor part still produce by motor manufacturer , I guess GD just order the exiting motor model components from manufacturer , if order a custom keyway shaft motor , the cost must get much higher , and also the keyway clamp (cnc) must need very precise , otherwise won’t have good result in the future
 
Pennzoil23
Not agree with that , put grease or anti seize on shaft is not good idea , it will reduce the fiction between shaft and clamp , In case it get rust by time , I don’t think it will be a mission impossible to get it out
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I'm going to ask you a question - do you know what a saddle clamp is?
 
Pennzoil23
Although sc2 are custom made (all in one) direct drive , but the motor part still produce by motor manufacturer , I guess GD just order the exiting motor model components from manufacturer , if order a custom keyway shaft motor , the cost must get much higher , and also the keyway clamp (cnc) must need very precise , otherwise won’t have good result in the future
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Sorry for the sarcasm Pennzoil, but at last you getting to grips with the problem (pun intended) In all probability the motor is an 'off the shelf' spec that came with a plain ground shaft never intended for this use. The only method that could be used for the collet to be retained is a saddle clamp - not ideal when rotational slip could/was/is a problem as a previous poster highlighted when the manufacturer sent instruction to remove all remains of grease or wax coatings from the shaft. There is a reason the makers of the motors put a protective film of grease or wax while in storage - motors like these can sit on shelves for months - simple fact bearing surfaces can suffer corrosion. If they used a motor that had a shaft with a machined keyway or spline they would have solved two issue. Problem for Simucube a cheap one doesn't exist - they do but adding a keyed shaft would had added a few quid, just a few pounds by the way, these servo motors are as cheap as chip and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. But a plain ground central shaft version of the right spec was/is available off the shelf so is the cheapest option. One problem, they need to design a clamping method to attach a wheel - simple solution, saddle clamp, less than ideal.

If they'd done it correctly in the first place, no grease or protective wax would have needed to be removed. Anyway, removing grease from the shaft was not the initial problem I pointed out... What I was trying to point out was that Barry was wrong in his advice and so is the manufacturer to remove grease from the Morse taper if it's intended to be semi permanent or permanent, which it is in this case. Morse tapers DO NOT slip if torqued up correctly.

A keyed shaft is what should have been used and needs pointing out to the makers of this DD base... Period.

And, this is the last I will comment on this matter....
 
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bluepeter
Sorry for the sarcasm Pennzoil, but at last you getting to grips with the problem (pun intended) In all probability the motor is an 'off the shelf' spec that came with a plain ground shaft never intended for this use. The only method that could be used for the collet to be retained is a saddle clamp - not ideal when rotational slip could/was/is a problem as a previous poster highlighted when the manufacturer sent instruction to remove all remains of grease or wax coatings from the shaft. There is a reason the makers of the motors put a protective film of grease or wax while in storage - motors like these can sit on shelves for months - simple fact bearing surfaces can suffer corrosion. If they used a motor that had a shaft with a machined keyway or spline they would have solved two issue. Problem for Simucube a cheap one doesn't exist - they do but adding a keyed shaft would had added a few quid, just a few pounds by the way, these servo motors are as cheap as chip and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. But a plain ground central shaft version of the right spec was/is available off the shelf so is the cheapest option. One problem, they need to design a clamping method to attach a wheel - simple solution, saddle clamp, less than ideal.

If they'd done it correctly in the first place, no grease or protective wax would have needed to be removed. Anyway, removing grease from the shaft was not the initial problem I pointed out... What I was trying to point out was that Barry was wrong in his advice and so is the manufacturer to remove grease from the Morse taper if it's intended to be semi permanent or permanent, which it is in this case. Morse tapers DO NOT slip if torqued up correctly.

A keyed shaft is what should have been used and needs pointing out to the makers of this DD base... Period.

And, this is the last I will comment on this matter....
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Thx for your long reply , i guess I can understand what you say , and sorry I haven’t watch Barry talking about changing Q1R video , I just read your previous replies said should add grease on shaft and clamp
 
Pennzoil23
@bluepeter will you add anti seize at your car’s wheel studs or lug nuts ?
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Sorry, my intention was not to offend and on reflection I shouldn't have used the term ' idiot ' it was rude of me and a slight knee jerk reaction to watching Barry's video. I've spent over forty years as a design engineer and am now semi retired at the age of sixty. I do a small amount of consultancy using CFD and some of my last work was in the area of crystal grown turbine blade r&d....

Not wanting to patronise anyone here but this field of DD is all rather low tech and the knowledge we have on servo & stepper motors is widespread. The method of connecting a steering wheel to a round shaft is well understood and doesn't need to be reinvented.

Yes, add a smear of copper grease to wheel studs, exhaust manifolds, saddle clamps used on an exhaust etc etc... I could give you hundreds of applications where a smear of copper grease works wonders when needing to disassemble after use.... Ask any car mechanic.

Have you spent anytime in manufacturing or visited a car assembly line - steering columns are not degreased or the rack etc, they ain't got time lol...
 
bluepeter
Sorry, my intention was not to offend and on reflection I shouldn't have used the term ' idiot ' it was rude of me and a slight knee jerk reaction to watching Barry's video. I've spent over forty years as a design engineer and am now semi retired at the age of sixty. I do a small amount of consultancy using CFD and some of my last work was in the area of crystal grown turbine blade r&d....

Not wanting to patronise anyone here but this field of DD is all rather low tech and the knowledge we have on servo & stepper motors is widespread. The method of connecting a steering wheel to a round shaft is well understood and doesn't need to be reinvented.

Yes, add a smear of copper grease to wheel studs, exhaust manifolds, saddle clamps used on an exhaust etc etc... I could give you hundreds of applications where a smear of copper grease works wonders when needing to disassemble after use.... Ask any car mechanic.

Have you spent anytime in manufacturing or visited a car assembly line - steering columns are not degreased or the rack etc, they ain't got time lol...
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Studs or lug nuts should not add copper grease , it’s only can add on wheel hub but not the threads , for apply the same amount of torque , studs or nuts will over stress after grease

 
Pennzoil23
Studs or lug nuts should not add copper grease , it’s only can add on wheel hub but not the threads , for apply the same amount of torque , studs or nuts will over stress after grease

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Be totally honest with me Pennzoil, when was the last time you used a torque wrench to change a wheel on your car... What-aboutism doesn't work for me.... I'm happy to use a small smear of copper based grease on nuts & bolts that a prone to corrosion due to weathering or excessive heat.

And let's not go too far off subject, we are discussing the collet used on a DD wheel base... Hand tight should be ample.

You are grasping at straws... We are not talking about putting a man or woman on Mars... Now that's real clever stuff.......
 
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bluepeter
In all probability the motor is an 'off the shelf' spec that came with a plain ground shaft never intended for this use
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The motors are custom made for SimuCube.
bluepeter
If they used a motor that had a shaft with a machined keyway or spline they would have solved two issue. Problem for Simucube a cheap one doesn't exist - they do but adding a keyed shaft would had added a few quid
A keyed shaft is what should have been used and needs pointing out to the makers of this DD base... Period.
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None of the manufacturers of DD wheels uses keyway despite that some of them have a keyed shaft.
bluepeter
these servo motors are as cheap as chip and don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
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Do you know who is the manufacturer of the SC2 motors( and model number) to claim this?:rolleyes:
 

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