The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

[Khyber]

let's hope the tx gets ps4 support... some how I doubt it as long as that xbox logo is on the box knowing M$

 

[Paul33993]

let's hope the tx gets ps4 support... some how I doubt it as long as that xbox logo is on the box knowing M$

That seems kind of hard to believe given the way things have been handled of late, but who knows, maybe he actually has some good info on that. You can never really tell when someone is just repeating hopeful wishes they read on the internet, and when somebody has actual sources to be trusted.

 

[rankings18]

Hmmm, I have also retrofitted a 320mm wheel on my gte hub and still getting that noise...I think if I can put something between the back and front pieces it might help with the noise...Im just not too keen to do it right now as it doesn't really bother me when my speakers are on, maybe one of these days.

Finally got rid of the creaking sound coming from the GTE add-on hub using this:

Applied between the back and front pieces and the noise is gone! tested the wheel for about an hour and still no noise/clicking/creaking...hopefully it doesn't come back, time will tell...but I'm happy for now

 

[JohnBodin]

For those folks who have prefer their G25/G27 pedals to the stock T500RS pedals, or for those folks with TX wheels who would like to be able to upgrade from the stock TX pedals to 3-pedal set that included a clutch pedal, the BPA-TX-G27 Pedal Adapter is now available on the Bodin Solutions Website:

Link: Bodin Solutions BPA-TX-G27 Pedal Adapter

The BPA-TX-G27 Pedal Adapter allows you to use your stock G25 or G27 pedals with the Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel. The BPA-TX-G27 is also compatible with the T500RS wheel, allowing you to use use your stock G25 or G27 pedals with the T500RS wheel.

The BPA-TX-G27 Pedal Adapter will allow you to use the G25/G27 throttle, brake, and clutch pedals with your TX Racing Wheel for both PC and Xbox One games/sims, or with your T500RS wheel for both PC and PS3 games/sims.

8)

 

[soap_hand]

Is it normal for there to be a dead zone in the pedals? Seems to be maybe about 1 centimeter of initial travel where there is no detection whatsoever.

 

[AndreHo]

Hi,

Finally after much putting off I have finally upgraded from my Thrustmaster Ferrari GT F430 Wireless Cockpit for PS3 to a Thrustmaster T500 RS. Luckily it was delivered in a GranTurismo 6 branded box so I'm hoping it is one of the latest versions.

I've had a quick go on GT6 and all I can say is WOW!! it has completely brought a new dimension to the game, although I have arm ache from the resistance of the wheel (my old GT430 had virtually no resistance) and this wheel feels really heavy to turn.

Has anyone got any suggestions for setting up the wheel? I have had a quick play with the settings and feel like I am poking around in the dark! The installation manual was not very helpful in this department...

Is it worth hooking it up to a PC and configuring it? Setting the rotation lock at 900 v 1080 etc?
What are good, playable settings in GT6?

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Whitestar]

Hi,

Finally after much putting off I have finally upgraded from my Thrustmaster Ferrari GT F430 Wireless Cockpit for PS3 to a Thrustmaster T500 RS. Luckily it was delivered in a GranTurismo 6 branded box so I'm hoping it is one of the latest versions.

I've had a quick go on GT6 and all I can say is WOW!! it has completely brought a new dimension to the game, although I have arm ache from the resistance of the wheel (my old GT430 had virtually no resistance) and this wheel feels really heavy to turn.

Has anyone got any suggestions for setting up the wheel? I have had a quick play with the settings and feel like I am poking around in the dark! The installation manual was not very helpful in this department...

Is it worth hooking it up to a PC and configuring it? Setting the rotation lock at 900 v 1080 etc?
What are good, playable settings in GT6?

Any advice is appreciated.

Since your wheel is new then I suppose it has the latest firmware (v41), but I suppose it wouldn't hurt plugging it into your PC just to check.
Regarding settings, I have mine at 5 now, which is default for GT6. So far I think that is the best setting. The ff varies greatly with car and tyre grip. I tried it at 7 but I didn't feel that that added anything. It just made the wheel heavier to turn without really giving it better or more realistic "feel". So for me so far 5 has been good.

By the way, as far as I know, your PC settings won't carry over to the PS3. The only thing you need to make sure of is that you have the latest firmware. And with the latest firmware you can actually set the rotation angle on the PS3.

 

[skazz]

My wheel (bought early December, has the latest internal tweaks) came with v40 firmware, so I suspect v41 will need to be applied. Interesting to check though.

Personally in GT6 I'm currently using FFB=3 for sports cars and race cars, FFB=4 for slower cars, and FFB=10 with power steering enabled for drifting.

I get the impression that even FFB=5 is clipping forces a little: basically this means centering force overpowers the subtler forces so you simply don't feel them while the car is turning. 3/4 has weak enough centering forces that you can feel everything else too (road bumps, curbs, car weight transfer) which is very important to feel the car properly.

On the other hand, for drifting you want the wheel to spin as fast as it can, so I ended up at FFB=10, but turn on power steering so you can freely spin the wheel when needed. This setting is however crap for racing because you only feel centering forces, effectively nothing else!

 

[Whitestar]

This works very well. Don't bother with tapping the holes deeper. Just do exactly what you said. Mine were so loose that I had to retighten after each session. I finally did this and have never had to touch them again.

As for pilmat's situation... Not sure what to do there... I don't even use the screw to hold the collar in place on mine. Maybe put another hole in the collar on the opposite side and put another screw in there?

So the the threads are long enough to fit 16mm screws? I'll give that a go then. Also thought I might try using lock washers. Has anyone tried that? Here is a video:



I'd rather not try to make the threads longer like mentioned in these forum posts: http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/topic/2669-t500rs-loose-wheelsteering-shaft/ (post with video by keithd near the bottom of the page). I'm just afraid I'll destroy the threads.

My wheel (bought early December, has the latest internal tweaks) came with v40 firmware, so I suspect v41 will need to be applied. Interesting to check though.

Personally in GT6 I'm currently using FFB=3 for sports cars and race cars, FFB=4 for slower cars, and FFB=10 with power steering enabled for drifting.

I get the impression that even FFB=5 is clipping forces a little: basically this means centering force overpowers the subtler forces so you simply don't feel them while the car is turning. 3/4 has weak enough centering forces that you can feel everything else too (road bumps, curbs, car weight transfer) which is very important to feel the car properly.

On the other hand, for drifting you want the wheel to spin as fast as it can, so I ended up at FFB=10, but turn on power steering so you can freely spin the wheel when needed. This setting is however crap for racing because you only feel centering forces, effectively nothing else!

I'll give those settings a try, thanks skazz. 👍

Btw I drove on Circuit de la Sarthe yesterday. You know all those small bumps along the long straight? I can only feel those through the wheel when turning slightly. When holding the wheel dead center I don't really notice them, even at very high speed (Nissan GT-R 07). I remember the last time I could feel those bumps. It was on my old G25 in GT5 before Spec 2.0. I remember clearly that after 2.0 I could not feel them anymore (still using the G25), so it must have been a change that came with the improved physics in Spec 2.0. And that still holds true in GT6 with the T500. Should it actually be that way? I suspect so given the behaviour of the G25 after Spec2.0

Edit: Or could the loose screws in my wheel contribute somewhat to the lack of feel of those bumps? Any thoughts?

 

[Dean]

I've not felt anything either.

 

[RacingManiac]

I did the 24 min Le Mans race, on race car with race tire Le Mans is very bumpy with the T500RS, I have FFB only at 4....I think with racing car as mentioned you could probably do with 3 since the FFB feels noticeably more than most street cars...

 

[skazz]

I think Le Mans 2013 (new track for GT6) has more bumps in the first winding section leading to the Mulsanne straight, but Mulsanne itself seems less bumpy (although there are still bumps). I assume this is following the real life road changes...

My suspicion is that when you are going really fast GT6 tightens up the steering so it takes effort to turn the wheel from center. And if you have FFB set too high you are basically getting clipping where you just feel the centering forces, I.e. The wheel goes straight and doesn't react to bumps. Set FFB=3/4 and have another go.

 

[JogoAsobi]

I am running 5FFB in GT6, I ran 6FFB in GT5, no steering aids for either.

Mulsanne straight, I feel no changes.
Rock & roll sensations vary by car/suspension set up just as they did for me in GT5.

If you want a washboard run, fire up GT5 and take the X2010/2011 or stock F1 Ferraris' out on it.

 

[RacingManiac]

Yeah X2010/2011 just makes you feel the pebbles on the track....lol

 

[Dean]

I think I'll have to try a run... By the way, how do you all determine how much FFB you'll use? I'm not sure if I should set mine up to 3.

 

[RacingManiac]

For me its just the force, too high you need too much effort to steer and you can't feel the front tire starting to approach saturation when it starts to go slack...

 

[skazz]

Watch this video:

Unfortunately GT6 doesn't have an FFB clipping meter unlike iRacing (or AC or rFactor or pCARS), but the same principle applies.

For fun this afternoon I took the same road car to a track with plenty of surface detail in GT6 and tried various FFB settings. At 10 or even 7 you get mostly centering force just like when the guy in the video turns up his FFB and gets red on the meter in every corner. Even FFB=5 feels to me like it clips a little. I found for a sports car that FFB=4 feels great, so much information coming through and it doesn't seem to be clipping.

 

[Lukalarus]

I believe that is because the T500 has some cogging, whereas the TX has none.

Hi,
i`m a new owner of a TX Wheel. Before that, i had a G25 and the TX is a great improvement. But i noticed some cogging when you turn slowly the Wheel. Is that normal, i thought there will be no cogging because of the brushless motor?. Is that cogging bigger at the T500 wheel.
I`m using it on Pc only.

Thank You

Lukalarus

 

[Whitestar]

Watch this video:

Unfortunately GT6 doesn't have an FFB clipping meter unlike iRacing (or AC or rFactor or pCARS), but the same principle applies.

For fun this afternoon I took the same road car to a track with plenty of surface detail in GT6 and tried various FFB settings. At 10 or even 7 you get mostly centering force just like when the guy in the video turns up his FFB and gets red on the meter in every corner. Even FFB=5 feels to me like it clips a little. I found for a sports car that FFB=4 feels great, so much information coming through and it doesn't seem to be clipping.

Wasn't really aware of all this. Thanks for that video. New and useful information for me. 👍

So you would recommended 3 for racecars and 4 for sports cars and slower cars then? Suppose I found it to be a hassle always to go into options and change this setting, if I you had to recommend one setting, I'm guessing it would be 4 then? I can of course test myself.

 

[skazz]

Wasn't really aware of all this. Thanks for that video. New and useful information for me. 👍

So you would recommended 3 for racecars and 4 for sports cars and slower cars then? Suppose I found it to be a hassle always to go into options and change this setting, if I you had to recommend one setting, I'm guessing it would be 4 then? I can of course test myself.

Obviously test yourself, in GT6 you can access the settings menu from anywhere except in a race so it's much less hassle than GT5.

But indeed, cars with road suspension and generally most things up to say 600PP seem all fine with FFB=4 to me, faster stuff like GT3 or prototypes feels a bit heavy so I have been using FFB=3 for them, but FFB=4 is doable too. There's a big element of personal preference in the use of FFB.

 

[MatskiMonk]

Oh. My. God.

So, my '500 was delivered to work today. I couldn't help myself but nip home at lunchtime and fire it up. Since I've still not built a playseat, I just put the wheel on the coffee table, pedals underneath, and perched uncomfortably on the edge of the sofa... FFB=5 (default), and took the BRZ GT300 to Eiger Nordwand.

I say again... Oh. My. God.

Aside from nearly having my wrists snapped, and failing to engage reverse once I inevitably span on landing the jump, I have to say I'm impressed. It's a terrible set-up, and it took me about 3 minutes to do half a lap, but the wheel had worked it's way halfway across the table

... but it will do exactly what I wanted it to, the feedback sensation is unreal, and the feel of actual pedals, rather than just X and Square is fantastic.

It's going to take some getting used to, that's for sure. And I now really need to pull my finger out and sort a seat/rig of some sort out.

 

[RacingManiac]

I find its also pretty car dependent in GT6....some cars seems to talk to you more than others...the Rocket for some reason just doesn't communicate a whole lot...

 

[guybo]

Aside from nearly having my wrists snapped

When I first got my T500, I had the FFB set as high as it would go (on PC) and jammed my thumb BADLY. The wheel just did what it does and snapped back suddenly and that great and strong FFB nailed me in the thumb when I lost grip on it. It was sore for a month after that!

 

[JohnBodin]

With the FFB set too high, the FFB forces "saturate," which means the larger forces max out prematurely, which then doesn't allow the smaller forces to be felt. Essentially, too high of a FFB setting means you get a much LESS realistic FFB experience.

 

[Dean]

I tried putting my FFB at two, and raced the Clio RS on the Nürburgring. There I found that three is too high for me... Yet, I also tried CDLS, where I found three okay with the same car. Does anyone have any explanation to what happened/happens?

 

[JohnBodin]

Could be how the steering is modeled for each car, Dean -- in iRacing, the Solstice has stock, power-assisted steering, and iRacing modeled the steering accordingly. So, using the same FFB settings that you use for an MX-5 (which has a manual, unassisted steering rack, I believe) will feel numb and lifeless with the Solstice's power-assisted steering rack.

 

[soap_hand]

Just a heads up in this thread as well, if your T500RS order got cancelled from Microcenter the other month at the insane price of $150, check your email.

Dear Micro Center Online Customer:

Thank you for shopping with Micro Center Online. Regrettably, due to an overwhelming response, we were originally unable to fill your recent order for the Thrustmaster Racing Wheel (SKU #234559) for $199.99 (tax, shipping and handling may apply).

Great News! We recently received a limited number of units and will fulfill orders according to when the original order was placed. Due to the heavy demand for the Racing Wheel, we had to limit the quantity to one per customer, address or household. You are receiving this email because your order was among the range of orders that are within the fulfillment quantity.

Action Required to Obtain Racing Wheel (SKU #234559):
Please contact us via phone to place your order by (1/15/14) and provide your original order number. If we have not heard from you by this date, we must contact the next customer in line.

If you have any questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us via Chat. We apologize for any inconvenience and thank you for shopping at Micro Center Online.

$200 is a typo. They are in fact honoring the original price.

 

[JogoAsobi]

Could be how the steering is modeled for each car, Dean -- in iRacing, the Solstice has stock, power-assisted steering, and iRacing modeled the steering accordingly. So, using the same FFB settings that you use for an MX-5 (which has a manual, unassisted steering rack, I believe) will feel numb and lifeless with the Solstice's power-assisted steering rack.

Yes, its also very evident when switching to FF cars from other drive-train type cars in GT6 if FFB settings are not adjusted.

 

[RacingManiac]

Yes, its also very evident when switching to FF cars from other drive-train type cars in GT6 if FFB settings are not adjusted.

Yep....at 5 its perfect for some cars like XBow or S2000....but a bit light for Clio....

 

[JogoAsobi]

Yep....at 5 its perfect for some cars like XBow or S2000....but a bit light for Clio....

Not all Clios share same drivetrain type.

For example: Clio V6's (Phase 1 & Phase 2) are mid-engine rear wheel drives, not FF.