The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Since your wheel is new then I suppose it has the latest firmware (v41), but I suppose it wouldn't hurt plugging it into your PC just to check.
Regarding settings, I have mine at 5 now, which is default for GT6. So far I think that is the best setting. The ff varies greatly with car and tyre grip. I tried it at 7 but I didn't feel that that added anything. It just made the wheel heavier to turn without really giving it better or more realistic "feel". So for me so far 5 has been good.

By the way, as far as I know, your PC settings won't carry over to the PS3. The only thing you need to make sure of is that you have the latest firmware. And with the latest firmware you can actually set the rotation angle on the PS3.

Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

You were spot on - I connected up to a PC and the firmware pre-installed was 4.1 so all good there.
I have set the FFB to 5 as per your suggestion and after using the Wheel for a couple of hours it has bedded in nicely and I am getting used to it - and enjoying every minute of it :)

In GT6 under Controller Settings|Steering Wheel|TM500RS you can select either Amateur, Professional or Simulation. Have you played with these?
 
Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

You were spot on - I connected up to a PC and the firmware pre-installed was 4.1 so all good there.
I have set the FFB to 5 as per your suggestion and after using the Wheel for a couple of hours it has bedded in nicely and I am getting used to it - and enjoying every minute of it :)

In GT6 under Controller Settings|Steering Wheel|TM500RS you can select either Amateur, Professional or Simulation. Have you played with these?
On the older pre-900 degree Logi wheels it affects counter steering and assists with recovery, since those wheels are pretty twitchy and don't have alot in the way of FFB resistance.
 
Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

You were spot on - I connected up to a PC and the firmware pre-installed was 4.1 so all good there.
I have set the FFB to 5 as per your suggestion and after using the Wheel for a couple of hours it has bedded in nicely and I am getting used to it - and enjoying every minute of it :)

In GT6 under Controller Settings|Steering Wheel|TM500RS you can select either Amateur, Professional or Simulation. Have you played with these?
Good stuff. 👍 Based on tip from @skazz I tried setting 4 and did in fact find it to be even better than 5, so you may want to try that as well.
Oh and like @RacingManiac and @Gunstar says: Those three settings only affect older non-900 degree wheels. It says so in the scrolling description below when you point to the setting. ;)
 
This is a weird question but anyone notice how the force feedback is extremely strong in the XMB of PS3 but then after it calibrates in GT6 menus it's very weak. I honestly do not think I have seen such strong force feedback anywhere except in the XMB. Is that normal?
 
This is a weird question but anyone notice how the force feedback is extremely strong in the XMB of PS3 but then after it calibrates in GT6 menus it's very weak. I honestly do not think I have seen such strong force feedback anywhere except in the XMB. Is that normal?

The centering spring is at 100% when in the xmb I believe. As well, while you are in game racing, if you press the PS button, this happens as well. For example, and don't do this, stop the car, turn the wheel all the way to full lock in one direction, press the PS button... The wheel will go as fast as it possibly can back to center. :)
 
Definitely never using a wheel under 330mm from here on out. My 330mm Momo is probably the best upgrade I've ever done. 350 might be even more stable with the super twitch cars, but this is probably a good balance between stability and responsiveness.

I've gone back and played some cars I've really disliked in the past lately. The Skip Barber in rfactor 2 was a car I detested. But then again, in real life, it uses a 350mm wheel. That could have explained why I hated it so much... especially with the GTE wheel. It's so much more civilized now. And I'm able to fairly easily catch slides I never would have in the past.

Tempted to give iracing another chance (fourth?) the next time I get a deal in my e-mail. I'm pretty certain my opinion of certain cars will be different;)
 
Can I ask if you can hear a very very quiet "digital noise" when you make an initial movement on the wheel (regardless of where in the rotation the wheel is at) I find mine since new makes a tiny and initial digital "buzzing" noise before going quiet the more i move it. Its almost like the motor is trying to correct my moment for the first 5mm and then disengages when I am moving the wheel.

Does this make sense? Is this normal?
 
Oh, wow. I'm a heathen who has seen the light.

My 330mm Momo Veloce arrived the other day and I've finally had a little bit of time to spend with it. I'm in love. Love!
I received the Veloce a couple months ago. You got it from Lombardo (or whatever the racing shops name is) through eBay? Awesome price too! I have mine modded on my CSR but I'm trying to track down a T500RS in Canada. I ordered a TX and it's sitting behind me unopened but I'm worried about reliability after reading all the horror stories. I purchased it through Beach Audio's eBay storefront and Thrusmaster told me I have no warranty, so if anything goes wrong I'm hooped. Bleh.
 
I received the Veloce a couple months ago. You got it from Lombardo (or whatever the racing shops name is) through eBay? Awesome price too! I have mine modded on my CSR but I'm trying to track down a T500RS in Canada. I ordered a TX and it's sitting behind me unopened but I'm worried about reliability after reading all the horror stories. I purchased it through Beach Audio's eBay storefront and Thrusmaster told me I have no warranty, so if anything goes wrong I'm hooped. Bleh.

Yeah. That's who I ordered it from. As much as I've dislike the direction ebay has taken over the years, it's finds like those that still make the site worthwhile.

Where else can you get an amazing wheel like that, that still looks new after 30 years, for a great price like that:)
 
Yeah. That's who I ordered it from. As much as I've dislike the direction ebay has taken over the years, it's finds like those that still make the site worthwhile.

Where else can you get an amazing wheel like that, that still looks new after 30 years, for a great price like that:)
I hate their policies (which continue to worsen annually) but in the end it's the biggest auction market in the world, so there's still lots of good deals to be found.

Probably the only other chance at getting the wheel would be being Italian and knowing about this racing shop.

What year is yours? I got an '82. By the way, I ordered some Lotus badges and I have 5 or 6 extra. They fit perfectly (55mm). PM me if you're interested.
 
I hate their policies (which continue to worsen annually) but in the end it's the biggest auction market in the world, so there's still lots of good deals to be found.

Probably the only other chance at getting the wheel would be being Italian and knowing about this racing shop.

What year is yours? I got an '82. By the way, I ordered some Lotus badges and I have 5 or 6 extra. They fit perfectly (55mm). PM me if you're interested.

The manufacture date on the back is 10-82.
 
I was racing the N24 GT-R GT3 in Gran Turismo 6 today around Nurburgring and decided that it works best at FFB=2, since 3 actually felt too firm. The nuances and little effects coming through at 2 also seemed to bring the car alive compared to 3.

Since I am pretty sure that FFB in GT6 is linear gain from 1-10, the amount of force coming through at 2 in a car which has heavy simulated steering was quite impressive :)
 
For me FFB=1 is too strong already, even with steering assistance on. :lol:

I got a T500 a few days ago to play GT6, and I am shocked. When I started I had the sensibility set to 5 (I thought it was a setting for pads only :banghead: ). But I still struggle even after setting it to 0 (I tried -2 but it feels laggy).

I was a rather good pad driver, not the best but I could gold everything easily and be in the top 3.000 or at the very worst in the top 15.000 in online events. But now I'm struggling to even gold the events. Getting gold or getting in the top 30.000 is a great achievement for me now... After decades playing with the pad, I'm facing with three problems while adapting to the wheel:

1- I can't drift at all. If I start loosing the car's tail, it's over for me. With the pad I could so easily catch violent drifts, with the wheel I can't even catch an easy one, no matter how slow the car is. :ouch:

2- After a turn I want to make the car go straight, but the car oscillates a bit before I can go straight. :ill:

3- I always used the chase camera, and now I don't know what camera I should use... I'm trying them all, but I still mess up with whatever view I pick...

So, how was your adaption guys? How long did it take to get even close to how fast you were before? Any tips? Any adjustments I need to do, like fine calibrating the wheel on the PC?

My respect for the wheel drivers now is over 9000.

PS: But using the wheel with manual shifting gives me a great feeling :D
 
I think it took me about a month with my old DFGT and about a week when going from that to the T500. For the tips, practice makes perfect. :)
 
Oyashiro, there's quite a fun drifting video which went up on YouTube recently:
It's Assetto Corsa not GT6 (although that guy also has GT6 drifting videos) but you can see how the T500RS wheel spins and what you will need to achieve to drift with it.
 
Oyashiro, there's quite a fun drifting video which went up on YouTube recently:
It's Assetto Corsa not GT6 (although that guy also has GT6 drifting videos) but you can see how the T500RS wheel spins and what you will need to achieve to drift with it.

Oh my god :eek: look how fast the wheel turns :eek: :bowdown:
 
You really think FFB 1 is too much? 1 for me is almost nonexistent. I almost do not feel any FFB at all at that setting. Extremely light. I have to have it at least either 4 or 5.
 
You really think FFB 1 is too much? 1 for me is almost nonexistent. I almost do not feel any FFB at all at that setting. Extremely light. I have to have it at least either 4 or 5.
Really? I find that sometimes the wheel has life on its own and wants to go where I don't want to. And it gets the better over me.

I just found out that you can select the gain for the various feedback forces types. I really have to connect the wheel to the PC and mess around with those setting someday.

EDIT: Your avatar is the best I ever seen!
 
Oyashiro, there's quite a fun drifting video which went up on YouTube recently:
It's Assetto Corsa not GT6 (although that guy also has GT6 drifting videos) but you can see how the T500RS wheel spins and what you will need to achieve to drift with it.


I also recommend:

The Drift Bible

 
You really think FFB 1 is too much? 1 for me is almost nonexistent. I almost do not feel any FFB at all at that setting. Extremely light. I have to have it at least either 4 or 5.

I don't feel much at 1 either. I set mine at 2 and it feels the closest to the wheel of my real car (s2000). 4 to 5+ feels really heavy though imo.
 
I don't feel much at 1 either. I set mine at 2 and it feels the closest to the wheel of my real car (s2000). 4 to 5+ feels really heavy though imo.
Interesting.
I'm starting to think that the T500RS takes a few thousand virtual km for the motor and belt to bed in and forces actually get stronger during this period, because I seem to be turning my FFB down in the month and a half since I got mine.

I was trying various sports cars and race cars at FFB 2 yesterday and they felt good, although some of the sports cars would probably be better at 3. I still think FF cars need 4-5 though, for instance the Scirocco R feels very lifeless at 2.
 
I can highly recomend a "real" size Wheel for the T500, especially for all you Guys on low ffb and the Power steering users. Movements get really life-like and feel will become ALOT better, turn-in get much smoother and increased precision aswell. It´s also an epic upgrade for drifters!

I totaly agree with @Paul33993 and other Guys, I definitly wont go back to the GT-rim either, ever !
 
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I can highly recomend a "real" size Wheel for the T500, especially for all you Guys on low ffb and the Power steering users. Movements get really life-like and feel will become ALOT better, turn-in get much smoother and increased precision aswell. It´s also an epic upgrade for drifters!

I totaly agree with @Paul33993 and other Guys, I definitly wont go back to the GT-rim either, ever !
Where can I get a "real" size Wheel for the T500? I also thought it's size should have been bigger, like in real life cars.
 
I can highly recomend a "real" size Wheel for the T500, especially for all you Guys on low ffb and the Power steering users. Movements get really life-like and feel will become ALOT better, turn-in get much smoother and increased precision aswell. It´s also an epic upgrade for drifters!

I totaly agree with @Paul33993 and other Guys, I definitly wont go back to the GT-rim either, ever !

I have my OMP Superturismo wheel on a T500 now and I will agree that it is a big improvement over the stock GT wheel. The subtleties of the T500 come to life with a nice rim :D
 
Where can I get a "real" size Wheel for the T500? I also thought it's size should have been bigger, like in real life cars.

If you buy an adapter from Derek Speare Design, you can pretty much use any wheel (or any wheel that uses the standard 70mm momo layout... which is the vast majority).

Unless you buy an expensive mod through Sam Maxwell (300+ for the button plate alone), or are really good at modding, you're going to lose the face buttons on the wheel though. So it requires either a button box, keyboard, or PS3 controller to navigate/select items.

It's added expense and an inconvenience, but the end result is certainly worth it IMO. And I'm pretty cheap. So I don't make claims like that lightly.
 
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