The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

[kuato]

Ha! The question was aimed of course at those who have removed the wheel. The 3 holes in the adapter will be "thru" holes so I don't need the thread pitch. Mainly looking for the bolt size, and the width of the 3 standoffs (I might have the back of the adapter countersunk so the 3 standoffs fit like they do in the back of the stock wheel)

 

[eSZee]

How heavy is the momo wheel compared to the T500 stock wheel?

 

[OwensRacing]

FWIW If someone wants an adapter made, I run my own CNC shop and could easily get these hubs made. Be surprised how cheap I can do them too....low overhead makes a world of diff.

PM me if you are serious.

 

[Timppaq]

/\ You did not just guess at a bolt size from pic did you? hahahaha Classic my man classic. What about thread pitch? He will need to know that!

All in good fun man.

98% sure thick pitch..

..and definetly not M8 and I think M5 would be too small

 

[kuato]

FWIW If someone wants an adapter made, I run my own CNC shop and could easily get these hubs made. Be surprised how cheap I can do them too....low overhead makes a world of diff.

PM me if you are serious.

PM sent

 

[bryann]

hi guy's,

I'm a proud owner of the t500rs from the 14th of januari and al things were great until tonight.
For some reason my wheel is less hard to turn in general.
When i hit the curbs or a wall everything is normal but for some reason the wheel feels very light on staight line and normal turns and all cars feels the same in weight on the steering wheel.

What do you guy's think...??? the wheel can't be broken in my opinion.

Bryan

 

[TheDabbinDave]

What kind of car Bryan?

For instance, in stock suspension setup, the Veyron gets VERY light in the front end when traveling at high speeds. On a wet track such as SSR-7, you could turn the wheel at maximum speed and nothing will happen . Until you go sliding into one of the turns.

 

[bryann]

hi,

It is with all cars so far , for instance the calsonic gtr and the zonda fsels the seem light in arcade mode.
I have the feeling that It's a software problem .because before the race starts the wheel is strong in the center position and returns really fast, but ingame It's really light and soft now and this wasen't the case.
Inthe general wheel setup i also tried ffb set to 10 and put it in simulation mode and so far it does not make any difference.
So want went wrong here??????.

bryan

 

[gtsocks]

Just thought I'd post this for anyone thinking of buying one..

After a weeks ownership of the T500, I thought I would get the trusty G25, which I have owned for 3 years+, back out this morning and try it to see how it felt now in comparison.

I tested the following car track combos (all of which I have driven recently with the T500):
Ferrari F430 Scuderia / sport hard @ Monza
Corvette ZR1 / sport soft @ Indy Road Course
Mazda 787B / race hard @ Nordschliefe

It didn't take me many laps at all to realise that the G25 feels like it isn't connected to the wheels and is missing many subtle forces that the T500 gives, for example the thump as you hit one of the angled kerbs on the nordschliefe, and does several things it shouldn't - some bumps on the nordschliefe cause it to do a left / right wobble that send you a meter in each direction, where the T500 just feels like it went over a bump in the road (as it should). The subtle weight shift as a car starts to under / oversteer is much more pronounced with the T500 and makes for a more involving experience for sure, BUT, my lap times are about the same with both wheels, so don't buy a T500 expecting to be suddenly much faster!


Is the T500 worth the money? maybe, although I'm still having some remorse at spending so much on a wheel for a game , I'm definitely keeping the T500 and giving the G25 to a friend who uses the DS3 now .. perhaps the price should be less, but compared to the price of a G27 its perhaps right, as IMO they are both overpriced.

 

[MisterStatic]

hi,

It is with all cars so far , for instance the calsonic gtr and the zonda fsels the seem light in arcade mode.
I have the feeling that It's a software problem .because before the race starts the wheel is strong in the center position and returns really fast, but ingame It's really light and soft now and this wasen't the case.
Inthe general wheel setup i also tried ffb set to 10 and put it in simulation mode and so far it does not make any difference.
So want went wrong here??????.

bryan

Do you have a PC so that you can at least test the forces of the wheel in the Control panel app? You could do it with a laptop and that would allow you to eliminate the possibility that it is the wheel hardware that has a problem. Also, update your firmware while you are there.

 

[bryann]

hi,

thx for your rsply men, really appriciate that.
do you have a link for this app. sorry i am a noob on this.

bryan

 

[MisterStatic]

hi,

thx for your rsply men, really appriciate that.
do you have a link for this app. sorry i am a noob on this.

bryan

Install drivers found here. (follow directions closely) Then you can go to properties of the wheel in the control panel which will allow you to test forces (in the second tab).

Update the firmware AFTER installing the PC driver. Link for firmware.

 

[sonac]

The subtle weight shift as a car starts to under / oversteer is much more pronounced with the T500 and makes for a more involving experience for sure, BUT, my lap times are about the same with both wheels, so don't buy a T500 expecting to be suddenly much faster!

This is something everyone should know before buying a new wheel. I totally agree with you. Buy a new wheel if you want better quality, more realism and more immersion, but don't but it if you expect it to reduce your lap times, because it won't (unless your previous wheel was really crappy). It might even make you slower until you get used to it
Oh and don't feel bad about spending the money - there are more expensive hobbies out there

 

[Spagetti69]

I read somewhere that the pedals are the greatest asset to improving lap times.
More so than a wheel.

What do others think.

 

[MisterStatic]

The CSPs dropped my Laguna Seca lap times in the MX-5 in iRacing by 3 seconds on average over a week of use ( I did not drive more that week than usual). Since using the T500, I have been able to cut an additional second. I think the key is getting accustomed to the new feel, but in the end it does make a difference to have a better wheel; one second a lap makes a huge difference.

@Spaghetti69 I think the T500 pedals are enough of an improvement to make a difference over, say, the G27 pedals. But, I have not tested that hypothesis like I did with the CSPs.

 

[ara]

OK, well I have found a few new things. I'd like to hear from T500 owners to corroborate any of this information. Some of these may or may not be due to the firmware update, it's difficult to tell.

1. The FFB strength parameter (1-10) doesn't appear to actually do anything. I previously posted where I believed it was doing something, but last night was the first time I did an explicit test, driving the Toyota 7 on "2" for 5 laps and then driving the same car with the setting at "10" for 5 more laps. I can't feel any difference in the FFB strength. At this point, I no longer believe that the wheel parameters on that particular options screen actually change anything at all about the T500, which is consistent with what is displayed on that screen.


2. The FFB strength overall seems less than it was since I originally had the wheel, like a few others are reporting, but I'm not sure why. Here are a few completely speculative possibilities:

- My wheel is jacked somehow. I don't believe this is likely right now, because when *not driving* the default force is as strong as ever, and there is no other indication to suggest there is something wrong.

- Something in the firmware update changed how the FFB responds during racing. I can tell that they smoothed out some of the FFB forces near the center of the wheel, but maybe there were more and more subtle changes than that. I wish Thrustmaster had released a more specific list of what was updated in v.32

- maybe there is a breakin period? Or, perhaps I underestimated how quickly my arms would get acclimated to the forces of the wheel over time.

- I've been using faster and faster cars over the past few weeks as I progress through the game, maybe the faster cars do not create as strong FFB forces.


3. I did experience the "loud/broken fan sound" for about a minute as previously reported by RC45. It was not after a long period or any unusual use, and it sounded like the fan is scraping against something. It went away by itself, but if it comes back I'll report here and maybe exchange the wheel for a new one. My hunch is that perhaps the tolerances around the fan blades are extremely tight inside the housing, and/or the fan is extremely susceptible to dust accumulation.

 

[Gunstar]

I read somewhere that the pedals are the greatest asset to improving lap times.
More so than a wheel.

What do others think.

I can buy that. Just jumping from the DFP's pedals to the G27's was a big help for me. The better FFB is nicer for sure, but the better brake pedal was a HUGE improvement in speed control for me.

 

[Deano-gt]

OK, well I have found a few new things. I'd like to hear from T500 owners to corroborate any of this information. Some of these may or may not be due to the firmware update, it's difficult to tell.

1. The FFB strength parameter (1-10) doesn't appear to actually do anything. I previously posted where I believed it was doing something, but last night was the first time I did an explicit test, driving the Toyota 7 on "2" for 5 laps and then driving the same car with the setting at "10" for 5 more laps. I can't feel any difference in the FFB strength. At this point, I no longer believe that the wheel parameters on that particular options screen actually change anything at all about the T500, which is consistent with what is displayed on that screen.


2. The FFB strength overall seems less than it was since I originally had the wheel, like a few others are reporting, but I'm not sure why. Here are a few completely speculative possibilities:

- My wheel is jacked somehow. I don't believe this is likely right now, because when *not driving* the default force is as strong as ever, and there is no other indication to suggest there is something wrong.

- Something in the firmware update changed how the FFB responds during racing. I can tell that they smoothed out some of the FFB forces near the center of the wheel, but maybe there were more and more subtle changes than that. I wish Thrustmaster had released a more specific list of what was updated in v.32

- maybe there is a breakin period? Or, perhaps I underestimated how quickly my arms would get acclimated to the forces of the wheel over time.

- I've been using faster and faster cars over the past few weeks as I progress through the game, maybe the faster cars do not create as strong FFB forces.


3. I did experience the "loud/broken fan sound" for about a minute as previously reported by RC45. It was not after a long period or any unusual use, and it sounded like the fan is scraping against something. It went away by itself, but if it comes back I'll report here and maybe exchange the wheel for a new one. My hunch is that perhaps the tolerances around the fan blades are extremely tight inside the housing, and/or the fan is extremely susceptible to dust accumulation.

Ara,
I found the same thing as I was underwhelmed by the FFB even at level 10.

 

[bryann]

Hi,

thx for the links misterstatic.


Ara:

I know for sure it has nothing to do with the update, because i dont have the latest firmware yet.

But i adress the same inconvience as you stated above. It seems that everything is smoothed out, but until you hit a curb or pavement it will spin out of your hand like crazy and its very strong on that moment.

Before the race starts the wheel feels really tight but when start racing everything is really soft and light.
Maybe we are used to forces already but its weird that there are more people that notice this behavour of the wheel.

Bryan

 

[ara]

But i adress the same inconvience as you stated above. It seems that everything is smoothed out, but until you hit a curb or pavement it will spin out of your hand like crazy and its very strong on that moment.

Before the race starts the wheel feels really tight but when start racing everything is really soft and light.
Maybe we are used to forces already but its weird that there are more people that notice this behavour of the wheel.

Bryan

To be clear about it- I don't think the current behavior of my wheel is inconvenient, it just feels lighter compared to my initial impression. Yeah, hitting a big curb on the nurburgring has pretty strong results but I've never felt like that force was too strong or that it would spin the wheel out of my hands.

So far, it sounds like we either have the same problem, or this is normal.

 

[Gunstar]

I think it's a combination of different cars and acclimatizing to your new wheel. PLUS, turn all the assists OFF if you haven't already.

 

[ara]

I think it's a combination of different cars and acclimatizing to your new wheel. PLUS, turn all the assists OFF if you haven't already.

I think that's probably the most likely case. I don't know why you are admonishing me about assists, but for your information, I do not generally play with any assists except for SRF for the insane gravel stages. In any case, I don't have any reason to believe that the assists affect the FFB characteristics we have been discussing to any significant degree.

 

[Gunstar]

I've noticed on my G they seem to, especially the active steering one. Besides, I just feel more elite when I turn that crap to OFF, and isn't that what matters?? 👍

 

[Topyn]

Don't forget that there is some breakin period for all Steering Wheels (it was exactly the same for my previous GT3 wheel) = it's just normal especially for double belt system.
After around 50hours of gameplay, feeling of my T500 RS is now better than at the begining (more smooth 👍).

On PC (with ForceFeedback drivers) you can also adjust weight of the wheel (for this, just change MASTER GAIN Settings & DAMPER settings )

 

[bryann]

hi,

i just updated my wheel to the most recent v32 firmware and this one is better then the 31 in my opninion.
It seems more smooth but now i can feel the road agian and yesterday the wheel was softer thats for sure.
Maybe its just me:idea:💡.

bryan

 

[bryann]

Don't forget that there is some breakin period for all Steering Wheels (it was exactly the same for my previous GT3 wheel) = it's just normal especially for double belt system.
After around 50hours of gameplay, feeling of my T500 RS is now better than at the begining (more smooth 👍).

On PC (with ForceFeedback drivers) you can also adjust weight of the wheel (for this, just change MASTER GAIN Settings & DAMPER settings )

maybe you right, but i know for sure that yesterday i couldn't feel the road and any over and understeer. very weird isnt it..

Bryan

 

[ara]

maybe you right, but i know for sure that yesterday i couldn't feel the road and any over and understeer. very weird isnt it..

Bryan

Hopefully it was just a firmware bug that was corrected with the new release.

 

[gtsocks]

OK, well I have found a few new things. I'd like to hear from T500 owners to corroborate any of this information. Some of these may or may not be due to the firmware update, it's difficult to tell.

1. The FFB strength parameter (1-10) doesn't appear to actually do anything. I previously posted where I believed it was doing something, but last night was the first time I did an explicit test, driving the Toyota 7 on "2" for 5 laps and then driving the same car with the setting at "10" for 5 more laps. I can't feel any difference in the FFB strength. At this point, I no longer believe that the wheel parameters on that particular options screen actually change anything at all about the T500, which is consistent with what is displayed on that screen.

I have just been and tested, f430 scuderia / sport hard tyres on the Nordschliefe, as I have not upgraded my T500 firmware yet and wont until I find some good reason to - so far it seems to work perfectly...

first I ran a lap with my normal settings (simulation : power steering on : force strength 4)

next I changed force strength up to 10 and ran another lap, the steering was a bit heavier and forces when riding kerbs or oversteering a bit stronger, but not massively so, maybe 1.5 times as strong?

then I changed force strength down to 1 and started another lap, the steering was much lighter and lacking in feel , even compared to strength at 4


from that test I would say the 1-10 scale is not linear, 1-5 is much more of a difference than 5-10 IMO


I hope this helps you in some way

 

[AntDX316]

I have just been and tested, f430 scuderia / sport hard tyres on the Nordschliefe, as I have not upgraded my T500 firmware yet and wont until I find some good reason to - so far it seems to work perfectly...

first I ran a lap with my normal settings (simulation : power steering on : force strength 4)

next I changed force strength up to 10 and ran another lap, the steering was a bit heavier and forces when riding kerbs or oversteering a bit stronger, but not massively so, maybe 1.5 times as strong?

then I changed force strength down to 1 and started another lap, the steering was much lighter and lacking in feel , even compared to strength at 4

Because I think only premium cars have the FFB working correctly. The other ones don't have that support.
from that test I would say the 1-10 scale is not linear, 1-5 is much more of a difference than 5-10 IMO


I hope this helps you in some way

Only premium cars have true FFB support.

 

[.Hz]

Only premium cars have true FFB support.

Where did you hear that? Standard cars have great FFB support I doubt the premiums were treated any differently.