The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

[breeminator]

I don't know how total race times have changed since the last update, as I haven't re-tested previously fast cars, but I did 26:18 with the Celica '94 today - no tuning glitches and no wallriding. I did the race 7 times to develop this setup. It might look like I just bought all upgrades, but my first attempt was just over 27 minutes, it took a lot of trying other options to get to this.

The car is currently in the UCD, I bought 6 copies due to how many irreversible changes I was making. It has wide body, wide wheels (you can't see this from the tuning screenshots) and front and rear aero.

I don't think this is necessarily the fastest setup, it might be quicker with the top speed 10kph lower if it doesn't make the fuel more of a problem, and the diff and suspension settings might be able to be made faster, but I thought I'd share this so people can get the car while it's in the UCD if they don't already have it. Shift at around 50% red bar, no stops needed.

 

[mynameis66]

I don't know how total race times have changed since the last update, as I haven't re-tested previously fast cars, but I did 26:18 with the Celica '94 today - no tuning glitches and no wallriding. I did the race 7 times to develop this setup. It might look like I just bought all upgrades, but my first attempt was just over 27 minutes, it took a lot of trying other options to get to this.

The car is currently in the UCD, I bought 6 copies due to how many irreversible changes I was making. It has wide body, wide wheels (you can't see this from the tuning screenshots) and front and rear aero.

I don't think this is necessarily the fastest setup, it might be quicker with the top speed 10kph lower if it doesn't make the fuel more of a problem, and the diff and suspension settings might be able to be made faster, but I thought I'd share this so people can get the car while it's in the UCD if they don't already have it. Shift at around 50% red bar, no stops needed.

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Im going to give this a go tomorrow,to be honest ive never really been a fan of any of the celicas but im always willing to try a different car. 👍

 

[Habla2k]

I know they have increased tyre wear in Tokyo,so been doing some testing with different cars and tyres.By the start of lap 10 my rear tyres were all red and i still managed to maintain a decent pace,no slithering around like before the update,this was in the LS7 engine swap silvia running RH on rears.Similair results with my Delta HF.The RX7 on RH,prior to the update,when the tyres went red it was instant no grip,you were stuffed.Is this intentional or a bug?Me personally i would be happy if they left it as it is now,but this is PD.

I noticed this too, when i passed the pit and got red tires during lap 6 on the mustang. Lap times get worse, because you do lose grip, but it is not like before when red tires where an instant game over, lol.

 

[mynameis66]

I noticed this too, when i passed the pit and got red tires during lap 6 on the mustang. Lap times get worse, because you do lose grip, but it is not like before when red tires where an instant game over, lol.

I was on le Mans 30 mins in my engine swap RX7,fuels not an issue but the tyres were just going into the red as i passed the pits on my final lap,i though i can maybe wing it for last lap.By the time i had gotten to the 2nd chicane on the straight its was like i was driving on slicks in a torrential downpour,no warning just instant slippery slides.lol

 

[Mudda Chod]

Another huge surprise. This car is awesome fun on Tokyo... Do yourself a favour and pick it up from the Legends Dealership for 700k, then get your money back in 27. 5 min. (Avaliable for 6 more days)


300 SEL 6.8 AMG '71!!

Who said old cars don't drive well on Tokyo!?! The 300 SEL is so balanced through the curves, it can even do lap 1 in RH!!! Although IM also fine because you must pit for fuel (after lap 4 because it only gets maximum 7 laps on a full tank)

Straight line speed is poor and you will lose approx 3 seconds (less with slipstream), but through the curves you will gain 5 seconds or more (after lap 1). It's an easy win in the end with a one-stop strategy.

Also perfect for the Auto gearbox club because 6k rpm is perfect shifting, and it only has 5 gears (racing gearbox). Note the tuned gear ratios. Also upgraded the engine parts and reduced power to achieve 600PP. It's slightly faster that way because the engine gets up to peak revs quicker.

Super fun to drive. I used countersteering because I'm lazy, but no assists is also very possible (even on RH lap 1!!)

 

[johnson_57]

I bought 6 copies due to how many irreversible changes I was making.

If I'm not mistaken the only mod/upgrade that can not be reversed is the wide body.

I know they have increased tyre wear in Tokyo,so been doing some testing with different cars and tyres.By the start of lap 10 my rear tyres were all red and i still managed to maintain a decent pace,no slithering around like before the update,this was in the LS7 engine swap silvia running RH on rears.Similair results with my Delta HF.The RX7 on RH,prior to the update,when the tyres went red it was instant no grip,you were stuffed.Is this intentional or a bug?Me personally i would be happy if they left it as it is now,but this is PD.

I Have noticed the same thing. I Have been trying out a lot of cars using only IM tyres and they seem to have a fair amount of grip even when they are completely red.

 

[Habla2k]

If I'm not mistaken the only mod/upgrade that can not be reversed is the wide body.

That is true, but i also tend to buy more copies, because it is often a lot cheaper to buy a whole new car than buying new engine/new body or both.

@Mudda Chod
i bought the mercedes too, because i'd like to try it on Tokyo. I feared that topspeed might not be that great which is a huge disadvantage for me, but i'll try.

 

[breeminator]

If I'm not mistaken the only mod/upgrade that can not be reversed is the wide body.

You have to buy a new engine or body to reverse other changes, which is much more expensive than just buying another copy of the car, and you'd have to pay it every time. E.g. if you get weight reduction stage 3, then want to try 2 again, then decide 3 was better after all, it's much better to just have 2 of the cars and have one at stage 2 and the other at stage 3.

 

[Habla2k]

which is much more expensive than just buying another copy of the car

This is not the case for every car however. I don't know what affects the price for new body/engine, maybe the brand new price of a car, maybe the amount of tuning that was made. But it is very different between cars.

 

[SiNiST3RS5]

I actually been having fun with this race in a Nismo GTR, I win comfortably with 15 to 20 seconds lead but it's a pretty good race. Only time I'm actually racing AI them mid race laps critical

It did take some messing around with yhe car befire it would even be competitive tho

 

[Mudda Chod]

If I'm not mistaken the only mod/upgrade that can not be reversed is the wide body.

I think all the items on the lower right of the tuning sheet cannot be reversed. Bore Up, Stroke Up, Engine Balance, Polish Ports, High Lift Cam, Titanium Rods, Racing Crank, High Compression Pistons, Weight Reductions, & Body Rigidity.

As @breeminator has indicated, if you tune a car for a 900 PP race, and then need to get it under 600 PP for the Tokyo grind, it might be impossible with all of the upgrades, so it's easier to buy another car, and be careful about what you upgrade.

i bought the mercedes too, because i'd like to try it on Tokyo. I feared that topspeed might not be that great which is a huge disadvantage for me, but i'll try.

@Habla2k , how did it go?

 

[johnson_57]

You have to buy a new engine or body to reverse other changes.

Exactly, and I know the process very well. Apart from the cost they are reversible. Don't get me wrong because everyone can do it how ever they want. Me......I Would rather spend the credits to reverse than have 4 or 5 cars in my garage that I don't use. The cars that I really like and use a lot I usually have 2 of, one standard and one wide body.

I think all the items on the lower right of the tuning sheet cannot be reversed. Bore Up, Stroke Up, Engine Balance, Polish Ports, High Lift Cam, Titanium Rods, Racing Crank, High Compression Pistons, Weight Reductions, & Body Rigidity.

Check again, apart from a few race cars engines, the only thing that can not be reversed is wide body.

 

[Habla2k]

@Habla2k , how did it go?

Only 4th. Too slow on the straight and i couldn't catch them back at the rest. But it was fun to drive.

I Would rather spend the credits to reverse than have 4 or 5 cars in my garage that I don't use

Really? rather spend 500k on a new body than buying the car again for 50k?

 

[Doncarlone]

After months and months of mocking me, PD finally gave a brand invite i didnt have. It was Aston. Funny coincidence, it came in the day of the new COD release (its like PD saying "please dont go away, please dont leave us").
So I got aston One and vulcan. Tuned them and tried both in tokyo. AT, Sports hard, stock suspension, stock transmission, 450hp and height about 1300/1400kg.
TLDR: in this tunning, One is great, vulcan not so much.
One is stable, decent cornering and has decent speed. Easy win.
Vulcan has great handling, corners amazing, but very weak top speed. Nightmare in the long straight.

 

[johnson_57]

Really? rather spend 500k on a new body than buying the car again for 50k?

Ok, so this all started because I pointed out an incorrect statement/comment. For the sake of not derailing this thread I will refrain from doing it again in future.

I Have all the cars I need and want at this moment. Including the entire LCD up to date. Plus 80m credits to spare. So yes, I'm not buying 4,5 or 6 of the same car and only using 1 of them at the end of the day while the others clutter and crowd my garage.

No heart feelings, each to his own. Everybody can do it the way they like, this is just my way.

TLDR: in this tunning, One is great, vulcan not so much.
One is stable, decent cornering and has decent speed. Easy win.
Vulcan has great handling, corners amazing, but very weak top speed. Nightmare in the long straight.

I Can second this. I Found the One to be a fairly decent car but I don't like the Vulcan at all.

 

[shadow0460]

I don't know how total race times have changed since the last update, as I haven't re-tested previously fast cars, but I did 26:18 with the Celica '94 today - no tuning glitches and no wallriding. I did the race 7 times to develop this setup. It might look like I just bought all upgrades, but my first attempt was just over 27 minutes, it took a lot of trying other options to get to this.

The car is currently in the UCD, I bought 6 copies due to how many irreversible changes I was making. It has wide body, wide wheels (you can't see this from the tuning screenshots) and front and rear aero.

I don't think this is necessarily the fastest setup, it might be quicker with the top speed 10kph lower if it doesn't make the fuel more of a problem, and the diff and suspension settings might be able to be made faster, but I thought I'd share this so people can get the car while it's in the UCD if they don't already have it. Shift at around 50% red bar, no stops needed.

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The only undoable change is the wide body. Buying a new body from Rupert will get you a new wide body minus the stiffness and weight reductions. If you need a new engine, if he offers one it'll be the same as what you brought in with the car, not what the car originally came with. Of course to change the engine back, you need to win a crate motor and install it. So if I took him a Raptor with a Coyote engine (possible IRL, but not yet in game) with ports polished, racing crank, etc., he'd offer me a Coyote with just high compression pistons (this is what Ford used in the Mustang). In order to switch back to the 6.2 liter engine, I'd have to win one and install it. I don't think any of those swaps are available in game, nor do I know whether or not high compression pistons are offered for the Coyote. The Mustang variant was built with an 11:1 compression ratio. The F-150 has a 10.5 to 1 ratio.

 

[SiNiST3RS5]

Exactly, and I know the process very well. Apart from the cost they are reversible. Don't get me wrong because everyone can do it how ever they want. Me......I Would rather spend the credits to reverse than have 4 or 5 cars in my garage that I don't use. The cars that I really like and use a lot I usually have 2 of, one standard and one wide body.

Check again, apart from a few race cars engines, the only thing that can not be reversed is wide body.

Weight reductions can't be reversed either, pretty sure improved rigidity another one can't be undone

 

[Doncarlone]

Ok, so this all started because I pointed out an incorrect statement/comment. For the sake of not derailing this thread I will refrain from doing it again in future.

I Have all the cars I need and want at this moment. Including the entire LCD up to date. Plus 80m credits to spare. So yes, I'm not buying 4,5 or 6 of the same car and only using 1 of them at the end of the day while the others clutter and crowd my garage.

No heart feelings, each to his own. Everybody can do it the way they like, this is just my way.


I Can second this. I Found the One to be a fairly decent car but I don't like the Vulcan at all.

Honestly I was very surprised with vulcan's lack of performance. I thought it would destroy this race. Guess it didnt.

 

[mynameis66]

Weight reductions can't be reversed either, pretty sure improved rigidity another one can't be undone

Weight reductions,rigidity,all`permanent`engine mods can be reversed.Only the wide body is a no no,ive been there and done that. 👍

 

[Mudda Chod]

Just to be clear, are you saying that weight reductions and rigidity can be "reversed" by buying a new body, and engine mods can be "reversed" by buying (or swapping) a new engine?

This is replaced, not reversed.

If I want to reverse a Bore Up, can it be done for free?

 

[Habla2k]

If I want to reverse a Bore Up, can it be done for free?

No. Only with a new engine.

 

[johnson_57]

Lately I've been messing around more than seriously racing. This was fun, haven't done it in a while.

Just to be clear...... is engine swopped cars and tunes legit on this thread ?

 

[Rage Racer]

Mercedes-AMG GT R (fully stock except sports braking pads) works fine, too. Finished 1st from the first attempt despite of one 5 sec penalty.

There's now another way to farm this race if you have a 13B-REW-RX7 engine: put it in a Cappuccino.


However, it doesn't count as "without exploits" since this car build apparently has a broken PP calculation.
Anyway, I made a rotary-powered coffee car for the Race A in this week's Sports mode, so I'll try it in WTC600 farming soon, too.

 

[johnson_57]

Still messing around..........

Bernd Maylander did some F1 Safety Car testing at Tokyo. The GT is actually a pretty nice car. Even when detuned to 600pp it is still quite fast, 300 kph at the end of the straight if I recall correctly. The Black Series detuned to 600pp is not very impressive for me.

 

[Chris McFly]

Is everyone using just Racing Hard for this race? If i use rain tyres i am way too slow i feel...
Can you switch Racing Hard into a new set of Racing Hards?

 

[BWM]

Is everyone using just Racing Hard for this race? If i use rain tyres i am way too slow i feel...
Can you switch Racing Hard into a new set of Racing Hards?

Everything between SH to RM are fine depends on the strategy you go for. (The Comfort tires runs I did are just messing around )

For non stop run you may go for SH, or RH if you can stay on the dry line for the first 4 to 5 laps. RH usually last the whole race unless the car is too heavy or got too much wheelspin.

Others tires are usually for 1 pit stop run. (SH can be 1 stop too running lower Fuel map)
IM to RH/RM is one of the way(this event isn't wet enough for full wet tires), not much benefit for doing RH to RH, better go for IM for faster first stint.

 

[Chris McFly]

Everything between SH to RM are fine depends on the strategy you go for. (The Comfort tires runs I did are just messing around )

For non stop run you may go for SH, or RH if you can stay on the dry line for the first 4 to 5 laps. RH usually last the whole race unless the car is too heavy or got too much wheelspin.

Others tires are usually for 1 pit stop run. (SH can be 1 stop too running lower Fuel map)
IM to RH/RM is one of the way(this event isn't wet enough for full wet tires), not much benefit for doing RH to RH, better go for IM for faster first stint.

Ive been using the NSX '17 with Sport Medium i belive and 599 PP.. not the slightest chance..
Also there is no "dry line" until the last two laps ..at least for me in the last race.. does this have variations in it? The drying?

 

[Mudda Chod]

Ive been using the NSX '17 with Sport Medium i belive and 599 PP.. not the slightest chance..
Also there is no "dry line" until the last two laps ..at least for me in the last race.. does this have variations in it? The drying?

1. Help us to help you. What car are you driving?

2. Are you even in the same race? This thread is about Tokyo World Touring Car 600 (12 laps), not WTC800 (10 laps).

WTC600 is not raining at the start, but wet track on lap 1 from previous rain. By lap 2 the dry line is driveable on slicks in most cars. But it depends on the car. Refer point 1

 

[Chris McFly]

1. Help us to help you. What car are you driving?

2. Are you even in the same race? This thread is about Tokyo World Touring Car 600 (12 laps), not WTC800 (10 laps).

WTC600 is not raining at the start, but wet track on lap 1 from previous rain. By lap 2 the dry line is driveable on slicks in most cars. But it depends on the car. Refer point 1

Well.. as i said i am using the Honda NSX 17' with the Sports Medium and PP around 599 with max gear set to 340. And yes its the 600 12 laps, wet at the start and slowly drys up. Ive been using the tunign from @breeminator and it helped i could go up to rank 13. I think the weight reducitons and change of balance helped with braking and handling but i still dont have near enough good lap times to beat the AI. What iam observing is that even back at rank 14 the Nr 13 is gaining on me even if i am flat out at 300km/h on the straights.. its very strange...

 

[Mudda Chod]

Well.. as i said i am using the Honda NSX 17' with the Sports Medium and PP around 599 with max gear set to 340. And yes its the 600 12 laps, wet at the start and slowly drys up. Ive been using the tunign from @breeminator and it helped i could go up to rank 13. I think the weight reducitons and change of balance helped with braking and handling but i still dont have near enough good lap times to beat the AI. What iam observing is that even back at rank 14 the Nr 13 is gaining on me even if i am flat out at 300km/h on the straights.. its very strange...

Damn dude that is strange...
Well, I guess you've got the difficulty on Hard, which might make up to 15 sec difference, depending on the randomness of the AI.
Have you beaten the race with other cars?

There are many good options, but it depends heavily on...

a) Are you using controller or wheel? (Sorry, I didn't read your previous posts)
b) Automatic or Manual gearbox?
c) Assists or No Assists. (Countersteering/ASM/Traction Control)

Based on the above, we can recommend the right car and setup for you, for an easy win, or a fun drive, as you wish.