The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

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So, one thing I've seen in the latest days aka since when I got a wheel, controlling the car when it's about to spin it's mich easier on the pad than on the wheel, if you are going like I did with speed and power and stock setup you are 100% going to crash, I can guarantee you that. So you either take steps in regards to minimazing weight transfert via setup if you have a wheel or straight up use a pad, you'll die of death way less times.
 
I'm stunned by the pace of the '11 Aventador. It took me quite a lot of work to refine the setup to sub 26:20 (added around 15m to my credit balance). This was a no-stop, shifting at the start of the red bar, and with some use of higher fuel map, e.g. map 1 for the straight and map 3 for the rest of the lap for some laps. I also used TC3, I found that it gave me a really nice controlled slide when accelerating out of the final hairpin. This is the fastest non-VGT road car time I've done with a non-exploit tune (stock suspension).

The screenshot shows brake balance 0, but I had it all the way to the rear.

Tokyo 600 Aventador 1.jpg


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Tokyo 600 Aventador 3.jpg
 
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I've been running this race with a lot of different cars lately and been having loads of fun. I'm not really into tuning, so all I've done is put on the stickiest tyres I can without exceeding 600 PP. Everything else on all cars is completely standard. This also means that in some cases I had to drive with a gearbox that isn't at all suited to the track. The Honda 2&4 and KTM for instance top out way too early and only won because they didn't have to pit. Race Difficulty was set to Hard for all races.

The list will be growing steadily :)

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@breeminator That's awesome! 26:18 is no joke.

@Baka_Marimo This is a race where I love doing it with only one car, but yet, I think I have tried over 50 cars at this point. It's really fun to see the differences. Like, I used to think nothing could beat the grip of the Ferrari 458, then I tried the F50 and immediately changed my mind. :P
Last night I tried the Lamborghini Huracán and I think this car does have slighty more grip than the 458 and it's such a joy to drive.

Usually for these cars near or above 600pp I like to use SM tires. It's quite pleasant. For cars that are either too heavy or too slow I prefer using SH or RH tires, so it's a no-stop strategy.
RH tires can feel a little "cheap", but it's just way too fun to throw any car around Tokyo with them.



Anyway, I tested moar cars!

First, the interior sound while driving a R33 with WR 2 was driving me crazy. Not that is bad, it's just that I cant get my head around how a car is sounding like a race car, but still has all the plastic on it! Anyway, the only thing different in this one is a Medium Turbo, everything else is stock.
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The Medium Turbo is more than enough to win, BUT, this car has a very serious problem with SM tires. By lap 6 the tires were all gone. I still wanted one more lap and this decision proved to be a great mistake. Lost completely both front tires and rear left tire just after the S-bend turns. Almost lost them at lap 12 too.


These cars below are tuned cars. Well, suspesion and lsd are still the same. By tuned, I mean using WR upgrades, sports/racing filters/intercoolers or turbos to get the best performance, being as close as I can get to 600pp using RH tires.


The Evo VI is very similar to the Evo V, although I feel the Evo V is a tad better during the last laps. While the Evo V can do the whole race in FM 1, the Evo VI needs at least 6-7 laps in FM 2
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Speaking of Evos, I was thinking how good is the Evo V with SM? Without the grip, I'd need more speed so I installed a Medium Turbo on it. The results are honestly not very good. With a proper tuned suspension I believe I can save some seconds, but completely stock, well:
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This is quite funny. The same Evo, completely stock with RH tires is the only car I managed to finish under 27 minutes. With SM tires, it's one of the worst times! :lol:

All the Evos can easily win this race on RH tires and I can confirm the IV is very competitive:
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Somewhat slippery during the first 3 laps, but then it's like driving an Evo V/VI. This one is also very good efficient, so it's posible to do a no-stop with RH or SH. I found it to be quite good on turns even with SH.


This Impreza is easy to drive. Even on SH/SM tires, the car handles nicely. I tried racing without a Turbo and won with a total time of ~27:30, but honestly, using a Medium Turbo with this car is more fun! Not because of the speed in the main straight, but because it's fun to go full attack at the S-bends!
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And finally I got a win with both RX-7 and Silvia S15!
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The RX-7 really likes to drift. A LOT. It gets better after lap 4-5, but small corrections are necessary almost every time. The S15 is a good car on turns, but it's awful when braking. Be very careful at the first and last turns. I believe I have WR 1 on the RX-7. No WR upgrades on the S15.

Time for some "super" cars. These are completely stock. I used the same strategy for all of them: SM tires, pitting when needed. FM6 for the first lap (I always do this with any car) and FM 1 for the rest of the race.
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About the Lambos: they're all amazing! You can read previous pages and this one to see that any Lambo is definitely a good choice. My favorite is the Huracán. I said last page that the Ferrari F50 and the 458 feels like they're on rails. Now I think it's no exaggeration on my part to say the Huracán is up there, maybe even better than the 458. It's really safe and relaxing to drive.

About the Porsches: The Cayman GT4 is my favorite! Very stable, good top speed, tire wear is decent and best interior! Definitely the best Porsche on my hands (still have to try the 930, 964, 993 and the GT3 RS).
The 997 is actually faster, but fuel efficiency and tire wear are slighty worse. Stable, but a bit slippery.
The 996 is very fast and I believe a no-stop strategy with SH is possible. This one is very fuel efficient. As you can see by the time, the race was extremely fun! Exiting the pits at lap 10 got me in 3rd, but I still thought a win could be possible because I felt I had a really good pace going. Driving like a maniac in laps 11 and 12 put me in a perfect position to pass the RX-7 literally at the very last turn. This was one of my best moments so far. :lol:

The Mclaren MP4 is so good that I feel it's cheating. Excellent top speed and extremely fast on corners. It's a failproof car. Easy win.

Got fastest laps with the Murciélago (2:10.685), MP4 (2:10.395) and Huracán (2:10.670).

The C 63, on the other hand, it's by far the worst car from all cars that I've tried. I'm not kidding, this car is so bad that I almost gave up on it. It's fast, but not as fast as the leaders, it's very heavy, turns like a brick and fuel efficiency is awful. Be very, VERY, VERY gentle on the gas and when braking because this car eats tires for launch and dinner. 1-stop is possible, although, for the sake of you sanity, you should go with 2-stops and lose the race! Suspension or LSD tune with this one can probably save it from being so bad.



I don't know how many cars in total I have used so far for this race, but I think it's safe to say it's more than 60. I've been doing this for quite a while now since it's indeed very fun to drive stock cars or cars that are only using bolt-on parts. Got some nice screenshots too!
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With that being said, driving the RX-7 and the S15 got me curious if I could tailor these type of cars to this track with my own suspension settings.

So far it's been a mix of either completely stock or slighty tuned. My idea now is to pick a car that can't win this race in stock form and create a suspension/lsd settings for it, because I firmly believe the pace on the second part of the track is more important than the main straight. I believe that as long as I can hit 270 km/h, I can win if I can maintain a good pace on corners.

No extreme settings, just enough to be pleasant.

Well, until next time then!
 
A wonderful Goodwood Revival weekend get me hyped up for more classic cars play.
And more cash for custom race AI.
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stock Daytona Coupe with SH
Pretty good car, not known for downforce and cornering so I thought it will slide around in corners a lot.

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Bought one more for AI and have a go with it, RH and only reversible upgrades.
It's heavy on tires(maybe because I run on open diff setup), but nice sound with Racing pipe.



And saw the news another porsche VGT coming next patch. I realize forgot to try it when looking for the winning EVs(Jaguar VGT as well only tried on le mans)
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Sounds like a plane take off.
Mileage was bad as others, but it got the top speed and acceleration to overcome the extra pit stop.
It got so much downforce somehow able to stop with normal braking point I used for SH runs even with two grades down tires.
On the final dash to line behind the NSX all in my mind was
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:lol:

May try the IDR when it comes but with less top speed, unless it got insane cornering ability or larger battery...

edit: tried the Jaguar VGT Roadster, it got the battery life like an old phone:scared:
 
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The Huracan Gr.4 is just an awesome car ! There is nothing negative I can say about it. The tune is basically the one from @praiano63 . I Fitted SH tyres and raised the ride height to lower the pp. Added some ballast to get it to 600. This car does the race without pitting and is only the second car I am able to finish Tokyo under 27 minutes.
 

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The Huracan Gr.4 is just an awesome car ! There is nothing negative I can say about it. The tune is basically the one from @praiano63 . I Fitted SH tyres and raised the ride height to lower the pp. Added some ballast to get it to 600. This car does the race without pitting and is only the second car I am able to finish Tokyo under 27 minutes.
The starter of this thread has regarded tunes like that as exploits in the past, which is why I've been sticking to front and rear the same height and no higher than stock suspension. If you're happy to have the front higher than the rear, why not keep going and get under 26 minutes?

( https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-testing-out-cars-for-it.408979/post-13779133 )
 
The starter of this thread has regarded tunes like that as exploits in the past, which is why I've been sticking to front and rear the same height and no higher than stock suspension. If you're happy to have the front higher than the rear, why not keep going and get under 26 minutes?

( https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-testing-out-cars-for-it.408979/post-13779133 )
I tend not to go overboard on ride height,i tried the veneno with the wacky ride height and whilst its very fast,the handling around the twistys leaves a lot to be desired,also the in replays the cars look awful with the high ride heights.lol.
On the Veneno i settled with 1595kg,552hp and F/R height at 118.Easy win with a bit of FM tinkering through the twistys,then stop on lap 8 for fuel only.
 
Yea did this in my EVO V a few weeks ago...what a fun race! Actually had me sweating lol Id post my tune and stuff but looks like quite a few have already posted theirs. Want to try with the Enzo or Testarossa but feel they may not fare as well.
 
The starter of this thread has regarded tunes like that as exploits in the past, which is why I've been sticking to front and rear the same height and no higher than stock suspension. If you're happy to have the front higher than the rear, why not keep going and get under 26 minutes?

( https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...-testing-out-cars-for-it.408979/post-13779133 )
I Don't classify 10mm difference in ride height as an exploit. All my cars look normal and I don't run outrageous settings that make a car look like a circus vehicle. I Don't care about what good times you are getting running 89mm of difference in ride height on your Veneno, it looks just plain stupid (and sorry, I don't want to start a fight, it's just my opinion). I'll attach two pictures of the cars and you can judge for yourself. I'll also attach sreenshots of my Veneno setup and race time, which I don't think is bad at all for a normal looking car.
 

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All of the 4WD Group 4 cars give you an easy win here. Sports hards, minimum wing and power/weight manipulated to get 600 and you're good to go. No setup required.

EDIT: Gearing to 310kmh usually too.
 
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Okay, this is huge for this thread, the new update has made it so that diff and suspension settings no longer affect PP. A lot of older setups will no longer be below 600 PP, so the search is on for new best setups. E.g. I had been working on a setup for the MP4-12C and had it down to 26:33, but it's now at 635 PP.
 
Okay, this is huge for this thread, the new update has made it so that diff and suspension settings no longer affect PP. A lot of older setups will no longer be below 600 PP, so the search is on for new best setups. E.g. I had been working on a setup for the MP4-12C and had it down to 26:33, but it's now at 635 PP.
So lowering the car wont put the pp up anymore?
 
Sorry for asking, but can somebody check if the Tomahawk glitch works after update? (Im in school lol)
It's DEAD. The Alpine, Corvette and Red Bull as well. The DP-100 is not affected though. I Suspect a lot of people will be grinding Sardegna for a while.
 
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So lowering the car wont put the pp up anymore?
Yes, but it does cost PP to change to the adjustable suspension, so it will need testing to see whether it's worth the PP it costs.

I just had a go with the MP4-12C. I haven't tried to optimise the diff and suspension settings, as that will need quite a lot of testing. This was a 1 stop, I pitted at the end of lap 8, shifted around 25% red bar, and used TC3. The car has front and rear aero added.

I think PD has done the right thing with this change, hopefully we won't need to set our own rules around tuning exploits any more.

Tokyo 600 MP4-12C 1.jpg


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Ive had a quick look at my tunes,the MP4/4 no longer able to use at le mans 700,veneno will need some serious hobbling to get under 600pp so itmay not be worth using.I had a nice safe tune for the veneno running 550hp and`normal`suspension height but even thats gone,my engine swap Deltas have jumped a little but nothing too bad.R33,R34 have jumped slightly but i may offset that by being able to tinker with ride height,camber etc without worrying that it ramps up the PP.
On the plus side,imo,adding custom suspension adds PP which it should,however altering settings doesnt affect the PP which i think is how it should also be.Lsd drops PP for some of my cars but hey.Just my opinion on how it should be.
I havent checked the Alpine or the other money earners but i bet they are gone for now. 👍
 
Did a quick run in the new engine-swapped TT. Not the best drive in stock condition. Had a few issues with oversteer when braking into turns, which resulted in really bad wear on the Sport Softs. Still managed to win, although I've been faster in the actual R8. Also, added a couple more cars to the list, including the engine swapped M3 which is the first entry with no pit stop. Unsure whether I'll be able to add the CSL with the same engine swap to the list as well as it lacks stability, especially at the big first braking zone. Haven't managed to win in it so far, but not having to pit is definitely a huge advantage.

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Ford focus RS with engine swap is a non stopper on SH,i run 1 lap on FM6 through the twisty bits,the rest is FM1.The M3 you mentioned is a good blast for a 0 stopper too.
 
It's DEAD. The Alpine, Corvette and Red Bull as well. The DP-100 is not affected though. I Suspect a lot of people will be grinding Sardegna for a while.
Not with a Group C car. My Praiano 800 PP 962 C jumped up to 814.xx PP. A stock 2008 GT500 car, on the other hand, should still be good to go there as the PP reshuffle only affects customized suspension/LSD settings (though one needs to mind the RM tires at the end of the stint).

My go-to no-tune cars here at Tokyo, the 2013 Viper and 2006 Ford GT, and my go-to no-tune Sarthe car (the Red Bull Junior) should similarly be good to go.
 
Not with a Group C car. My Praiano 800 PP 962 C jumped up to 814.xx PP. A stock 2008 GT500 car, on the other hand, should still be good to go there as the PP reshuffle only affects customized suspension/LSD settings (though one needs to mind the RM tires at the end of the stint).

My go-to no-tune cars here at Tokyo, the 2013 Viper and 2006 Ford GT, and my go-to no-tune Sarthe car (the Red Bull Junior) should similarly be good to go.
Wait. No tune meaning absolutely stock?
 
Wait. No tune meaning absolutely stock?
Yes, absolutely stock (except for rain tires on the Red Bull Junior, and if one were to grind Spa, rain tires on your 2008 GT500 car of choice). I do play on normal, though all the cars should (and in the case of the GT500 cars and Red Bull, will) work for those playing on hard. I got the Ford and Dodge to around 27:40. The Dodge will do 7 laps on FM1, and the Ford 9 laps on FM1, and the SH tires on both last the full 12 laps, so you have your choice of fuel strategy.
 
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Decided to revisit this race with my " Super Mini Cooper " 560+ pp with the silly engine from a Civic , yup I won . The first 4 laps where a struggle as this thing rips the tires to shreads . So two pit stops and at my second attempt I won by about 30+ seconds , happy your dam right I am .
 
It's DEAD. The Alpine, Corvette and Red Bull as well. The DP-100 is not affected though. I Suspect a lot of people will be grinding Sardegna for a while.
Not here unless I get bored or they decide to shut the game down in 30 minutes or something.
I've been running Spa with the Red Bull Competition starting out on IM tires and switching to full wets only if it rains a lot. That lowered PP, so I turned up the power. I often win by 2-3 minutes, and also often win both Sardegna and Le Mans by that much.
Gonna try the Ford GT at Tokyo, it seems like that might be the first half decent drive for a "glitched" car. If so, I'll run it til they patch it.
I'm also curious how the Red Bull Standard could be detuned to 600.
I tried the Mazda RX-7/26B engine combo at Spa right before the update. Even without spinning it just kills tires too fast.
Sounds to me like this update makesore sense gameplay wise than the last, and frankly I'm sick of having to screw up suspension setups to make PP.
Good to know on the Cappuccino. I'll give that one a try at the Autopolis endurance race.
 
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Yes, absolutely stock (except for rain tires on the Red Bull Junior, and if one were to grind Spa, rain tires on your 2008 GT500 car of choice). I do play on normal, though all the cars should (and in the case of the GT500 cars and Red Bull, will) work for those playing on hard. I got the Ford and Dodge to around 27:40. The Dodge will do 7 laps on FM1, and the Ford 9 laps on FM1, and the SH tires on both last the full 12 laps, so you have your choice of fuel strategy.
That's interesting. Which one is easier to control?
 
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