The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

[Meythia]

try this:

The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

So, one thing I've seen in the latest days aka since when I got a wheel, controlling the car when it's about to spin it's mich easier on the pad than on the wheel, if you are going like I did with speed and power and stock setup you are 100% going to crash, I can guarantee you that. So you...

www.gtplanet.net

btw. is it easier to change FM on a wheel? On pad, using the stick to steer the car, it's always a little struggle to leave the stick so i can push the digipad to change FM.

Depends on the wheel, the barely available Fanatec GT DD has extra buttons for all MFD settings for instant access.

 

[MidnightRun85]

try this:

The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

So, one thing I've seen in the latest days aka since when I got a wheel, controlling the car when it's about to spin it's mich easier on the pad than on the wheel, if you are going like I did with speed and power and stock setup you are 100% going to crash, I can guarantee you that. So you...

www.gtplanet.net

btw. is it easier to change FM on a wheel? On pad, using the stick to steer the car, it's always a little struggle to leave the stick so i can push the digipad to change FM.

I'm on controller too, so can't comment. I've already got that post bookmarked for when I get around to buying the McLaren. Currently working my way alphabetically through the manufacturers to build my collection. Currently on Chevrolet...

 

[Mudda Chod]

btw. is it easier to change FM on a wheel? On pad, using the stick to steer the car, it's always a little struggle to leave the stick so i can push the digipad to change FM.

Since your using Auto, you could remap the MFD to the Action buttons (Circle, Triangle, Square, X), so you can use your right thumb.

Obviously with wheel & pedals we use our feet for accelerator and brake, which frees up fingers and buttons for other uses... The D-pad on my Logitec G29 wheel is flawed, as is the red dial, so I've remapped the MFD to the Action buttons also. Alternatively, you could probably map it to the Right Analogue stick and/or L1/R1 buttons, depending on what other controls you need during the race. I use bumper view so don't need to use a button to look behind because there's a mirror. No need to use D-pad at all during a race.

 

[Habla2k]

Since your using Auto, you could remap the MFD to the Action buttons (Circle, Triangle, Square, X), so you can use your right thumb.

That's a clever idea. Can you map the FM buttons even directly?

Right now i have Nitro on Square and gear up on X(which was only used to get the glitched tomahawk to gear 6 and stay there)

 

[Mudda Chod]

That's a clever idea. Can you map the FM buttons even directly?

No. Map the MFD function choice to Circle/Square, and MFD increase/decrease to Triangle/X. So you can easily adjust Fuel Mix, Traction Control and even Brake Balance, throughout the race... It's quite useful in races where the weather varies. When it rains, I turn on traction control and set Brake Bias further back.

 

[daan]

Most Gr4 cars are great for this,i add manual custom trans not racing,SH`s not IM`s and add a turbo then mess with ballast and power to get 600pp.The reason i add manual and not racing trans is racing adds too much pp,manual tends to drop it but doesnt shift quite as quick,its horses for courses really.The NSX Gr4 was one of the first cars i tried on Tokyo,i can do non stop on FM1,just mess with the trans to get a good top speed,dont try and win the race on the first lap.Im nowhere as fast as some people on here but with a gr4 i can catch Gallo by lap 3 but not always able to pass him until he pits on lap 5 or 6,then just pace myself.
With cars that i need to pit i aim for lap 7 or 8.Keep at it,it will just`click`eventually then you can try different cars,this is my NSX Gr4.
Another good one for me is the Mclaren MP4-12C,but i have to fiddle with fuel maps to make my pit on lap 8.
View attachment 1207454View attachment 1207455

The 4WD Gr4 cars are an easy win. Sports hards, lowest downforce, final gear to about 310km/h, power and weight adjusted to get 600pp. No stops. Fuel management depends on the car. Some are FM1 all the way (Atenza), others might need FM2 or 3.

 

[Habla2k]

It's quite useful in races where the weather varies.

Yea, especially because you have to switch MFD in those races, from FM to weather report and back.

 

[MidnightRun85]

Yea, especially because you have to switch MFD in those races, from FM to weather report and back.

I have my MFD controls on the D-pad, steering with the left stick. I just tend to flick through the MFD on straight sections, as/when needed. TBF, you shouldn't really need to be adjusting TCS, FM, or brake bias in the middle of a corner, so having it only "available" to flick through when you're not cornering isn't the worst idea.

 

[Habla2k]

Thats what i do right now, but not every track has long straights where you can switch sections and/or level. And FM 1 to 6 takes a bit, also i always forget if going left or right through the MFD is faster so it takes time from FM to weather and back.

 

[fastone371]

What's "MOV"??

From my understanding, the AI drive slightly faster and more aggressive depending on which level you choose. Using a car which is miles faster than the AI you won't notice the difference, but using a car which is evenly matched and means you have to work for a win you'll likely have to work much harder on Hard than Easy.

So running a 24:20 race time (I'm guessing that's a glitched tune) you're not going run into much difficulty battling the AI for the lead in the dying stages of the race...

MOV=margin of victory
That time is using the Rotochino, start on IM, pit for RH end of lap 5, FM 1, no wall riding. Regardless of how the AI races you their times appear not to improve with difficulty level. There are always easy places to pass because the AI is notoriously slow in certain spots, like the S's under the bridge and the hairpin where they always give you space on the inside.

 

[fastone371]

You're probably not doing anything wrong.

I think, under the current physics and event rules, 24:20 on Tokyo WTC 600 is only possible with...
1. The Rottuccino (RX7 engine in Suzuki Cappucino)
2. The Ultra-high rpm Turbo (gift part)
3. Some wallriding (maybe only T1).

Or:

4. Alien DNA

No wall riding, no ultra high rpm turbo, just a lot of laps there. Even though I finally earned all the credits to own every car I still can't help myself and run this race everytime I play. Always trying to improve my time, if I can be a little easier in tires so I'm faster at the end of a run I think 24.teens is possible.

 

[fastone371]

try this:

The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

So, one thing I've seen in the latest days aka since when I got a wheel, controlling the car when it's about to spin it's mich easier on the pad than on the wheel, if you are going like I did with speed and power and stock setup you are 100% going to crash, I can guarantee you that. So you...

www.gtplanet.net

btw. is it easier to change FM on a wheel? On pad, using the stick to steer the car, it's always a little struggle to leave the stick so i can push the digipad to change FM.

I think it depends on the wheel you use. I have a Fanatec F1 Podium which has a rotary switch usable with each thumb, left is for FM right is for BB but as handy as they are I also frequently bump them and accidentally change settings.

 

[MidnightRun85]

I just tried the BMW VGT tuned down to under 600PP and my god that thing is slow! I couldn't get it over 240kph! It was quick through the esses but losing way too much time on the straight! So I bailed after 3 laps...

... and jumped into the Corvette Gr.3 Road Car. Tuned it up to 600PP with a High RPM Supercharger, and again, slow. Maxes out just over 280kph, which isn't enough for the lap times needed. I was running most laps FM1 on the main straight, FM6 through the rest of the lap, and managed some low 2:14's, but overall just too slow and missed out on a win by 7s. I need something faster...

The CHC Chevy Nova is the next car on my list. Anyone used that / have a tune for it? On paper it should be quick, loads of power and not too heavy, but I'm guessing it's all about suspension tuning with this one!

 

[Habla2k]

The Corvete C7 road car should be able to win on stock. i could win in cars that had 280kph top speed though, i think the subaru 99 was like that and other cars with no stop race too, but that's on easy.

 

[MidnightRun85]

The Corvete C7 road car should be able to win on stock. i could win in cars that had 280kph top speed though, i think the subaru 99 was like that and other cars with no stop race too, but that's on easy.

I couldn't get it to run a no-stop. On FM6 it was showing 10.8 laps, so I figured I'd try strike a balance between lap time and pit time by fuel saving where aero takes over power. I might have to try another run, but it wasn't looking like it would be any easy win, that's for sure!

 

[BWM]

I just tried the BMW VGT tuned down to under 600PP and my god that thing is slow! I couldn't get it over 240kph! It was quick through the esses but losing way too much time on the straight! So I bailed after 3 laps...

Be more confident and trust in it
Top speed is low but with all the downforce and light on tire wear it can still catch up
Stock setup, SH, 70% ECU
FM1 non stop and upshift around 7k rpm

 

[Chikane_GTR]

Question in total how much do you get from this race?

Im doing the 800 one at Sardegna Road and that one gives me 727k for 25 to 26 minutes.

Is this better?

 

[Eggstor]

Question in total how much do you get from this race?

Im doing the 800 one at Sardegna Road and that one gives me 727k for 25 to 26 minutes.

Is this better?

825,000 Cr. This is the best-paying race...assuming you have 29 minutes (plus any rig setup time) to play, though Sardegna has less stress associated with it.

 

[MidnightRun85]

View attachment 1207518

Be more confident and trust in it
Top speed is low but with all the downforce and light on tire wear it can still catch up
Stock setup, SH, 70% ECU
FM1 non stop and upshift around 7k rpm

Okay, I might have to give it another try. But that abysmal top speed didn't instill any confidence!

Edit: @bwmyoure clearly much quicker than me. I finished 3rd, some 14s adrift of Gallo and Kokubun, total race time just snuck under 28 mins.

 

[breeminator]

I have my MFD controls on the D-pad, steering with the left stick.

I have mine on the right stick, it's a lot better there IMO. For example you can go back to fuel map 1 while cornering in the final hairpin, so you only go to map 1 at the very last moment before you start accelerating for the long straight.

 

[hollowkatt]

Finally got it!
WRX GR.4 Inters for tires. Tuned to be 599.99PP

First lap ran Fuel 1 all the way to T1, then up to Fuel 4 for the rest of the lap. Repeat till about lap 10 or so, from there swap between 1-2 depending on where in the lap you are (long straights get 1, other sections get 2)
Lap 11-12 was run fully at fuel map 1

Ended with approx .2 laps of fuel left, half my fronts, 3/4 of my rears, won by just about 28 seconds. Top 3 pitted 2 times for sure, some of the lower cars did 2 others did 1.

Either way might play around with other GR.4 cars now

 

[breeminator]

I tried the engine swapped 300ZX, improved the setup a few times, doing 27:01 for a 1 stop with SM tyres on my final attempt. I won't post the setup as it doesn't meet my criterion of sub 27 minutes, and it's not a particularly fun car to drive IMO, so I'm not going to try to take any more time off.

 

[Habla2k]

Atenza Gr.4 26:44

I finally got to try this and im honestly shocked by your time. I was a minute slower on SH, High Turbo and FM whole race without stop. It's just so slow. 285-290 kph on the straight, but it's slow during the track, bad acceleraton. I barely used the brake, no idea where you squeeze a whole minute out of that lol. Nicely done.

 

[breeminator]

I finally got to try this and im honestly shocked by your time. I was a minute slower on SH, High Turbo and FM whole race without stop. It's just so slow. 285-290 kph on the straight, but it's slow during the track, bad acceleraton. I barely used the brake, no idea where you squeeze a whole minute out of that lol. Nicely done.

It was a very long time ago now, but you've intrigued me, I'll give it another try soon, it might have become much slower with all the updates to physics and PP since then.

 

[Habla2k]

It was a very long time ago now, but you've intrigued me, I'll give it another try soon, it might have become much slower with all the updates to physics and PP since then.

Great, would love to see the tune too then.

Btw. I got a Peugeot RCZ GR3 Road Car i like to try in tokyo. Also got the GR4 model.

 

[breeminator]

Great, would love to see the tune too then.

Btw. I got a Peugeot RCZ GR3 Road Car i like to try in tokyo. Also got the GR4 model.

I've just tried the Atenza Gr.4 again, and did 26:50 for a no stop with SH, but the left front tyre had a full red bar by the end, so I think one stop SM might be faster, even though the fuel can easily do a no stop. It has been a while since I've used it, but I can hook my Elgato up to record me doing the race if you want to see if there's anything you're able to copy? I might just be generally more accurate with my actions than you (like the aliens are even more accurate than me).

 

[breeminator]

Great, would love to see the tune too then.

I tried a one stop SM, but it was over 27 minutes. I tweaked my no stop SH setup, and probably also drove it a bit better, and did 26:38.

Note that it has max front downforce, and min rear downforce, to try to maximise performance in the context of it not being able to reach 600 PP. This means it can be tricky to handle in the wet in the early laps, so be careful not to steer too much, especially when accelerating.

 

[05XR8]

This game is so ridiculous with the tuning. Must be driving the programming crazy, with all the virtual laps it does, after each tune.

 

[Habla2k]

I tried a one stop SM, but it was over 27 minutes. I tweaked my no stop SH setup, and probably also drove it a bit better, and did 26:38.

Note that it has max front downforce, and min rear downforce, to try to maximise performance in the context of it not being able to reach 600 PP. This means it can be tricky to handle in the wet in the early laps, so be careful not to steer too much, especially when accelerating.

View attachment 1207804

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View attachment 1207802

thanks for that, i'm gonna check it out later, would be cool to see one lap of your driving too, but nvm if it's to much hassle.
a 2:10 seems to be way out of my league, lol. Whats your topspeed on the straight?

 

[mynameis66]

thanks for that, i'm gonna check it out later, would be cool to see one lap of your driving too, but nvm if it's to much hassle.
a 2:10 seems to be way out of my league, lol. Whats your topspeed on the straight?

If i remember,top speed on the straight was just about 180mph,which i think is around 290kmh.When i used it i did a lot of slipstreaming on the straight but non stop for a narrow win,i think it was about 28mins total race time.i never go hell for leather to get a fast race time,as long as i cross the line first im happy. 👍