The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

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Anyone having an engine swapped ford focus and used it on tokyo? I found it to be very unstable. Same with Silvia with corvette engine. Both should have enough Power to win, but hard to control.
The engine swapped Focus handles pretty good with the non-swap tune by Praiano. Might need some downforce and power tweaking to make it work but I was able to do a no stop race with it. The fuel lasts exactly to the finish line on FM1 :)

Post in thread 'PRAIANO'S TUNES : SETTINGS FOR GT7'
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/praianos-tunes-settings-for-gt7.404868/post-13793877
 
This works for me,do the race non stop on FM1.It has a little bit of oversteer but ive learnt to live with it,an alternative tune is to use standard suspension and add racing brake discs but its fine with just racing pads.Hike the power up with standard suspension,its pretty good.
I tried the race with the Lancia Stratos and Testarossa but couldnt get on with the jacked up rear ride height,lowered the rear on both of them and found them better for me,however the stratos is a little slow on the straight for me.
556hp 1343kg 600pp (2).jpg
556hp 1343kg 600pp (1).jpg
 
The engine swapped Focus handles pretty good with the non-swap tune by Praiano. Might need some downforce and power tweaking to make it work but I was able to do a no stop race with it. The fuel lasts exactly to the finish line on FM1
I tried the focus too today, tuned it down to 600 with SH, ECU and Power Restrictor. I also made a no stop Race but with a mix of FM2 and 3, wouldn't have been enough on FM1. And my Gearbox was not good. Could still win by 20s. :)

Gave the M3 another chance, but no way i can do that. 2:20 laps are not enough. :D
 
Another engine swap test, the Fairlady '08 with the GT-R GT500 engine. There is loads of fuel to spare at the end, and you want to shift at the end of the red bar, so automatic gears should be fine, though I used manual. I used TC 1. It has a wide body with wide wheels and offset, but I suspect it actually makes it slower, as my race time became slower when I added it, though I made some other changes at the same time so can't be sure. Unless you have two of the engines and can try both, I'd suggest not going wide body and adjusting the power as necessary to hit 600 PP. I only had one engine so I can't go back and try non-wide body now with everything else exactly the same. Front aero needs to be type A or the min downforce will be 75 with type B. The main benefit of the weight reduction is reduced tyre wear which makes the last few laps quicker compared to the car being heavier.

Tokyo 600 Fairlady GT-R 26_35 no stop 1.jpg


Tokyo 600 Fairlady GT-R 26_35 no stop 2.jpg


Tokyo 600 Fairlady GT-R 26_35 no stop 3.jpg
 
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Where do you get all those engines?

I got a 6* Ticket from daily driving yesterday, which is really rare... and only got money. :(
I got loads from the Bonanza, but haven't had any of the "new" ones since then. I think I still have 15 Coyote engines I've not even bothered with that swap!
 
@Zorz
Well it seems to me that the fastest result comes from combining our tune philosophies.

27:02 and Fastest Lap!!!

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As per your tune, the Low rpm Turbo accelerates faster than my High rpm Turbo, but then it fails to deliver top end speed on the straight, and it consumes fuel trying. So the logical compromise is the Medium rpm Turbo.

Accordingly I extended the gear ratios (from my previous tune) to utilise the mid-rpm power, and adopted your idea of compromising on the breaks to achieve the PP requirement.

Strangely I found the handling worse, but possibly that's due to slightly higher corner speeds, or poor brakes. It essentially doesn't require any fuel saving strategy, but I did lean the mix and/or short shift, when in slipstream), just in case.

Again the limitation is the front tyre wear and the entire last lap was run with fully depleted tyres.

It turns out to be a fun grind, and I almost lapped Gentry in the Viper. :boggled:


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Is this on hard difficulty, and do you wall ride? I'm not the fastest, but I'm consistantly 4-5sec slower per lap then you, with no wallriding. Maybe I just need to git gud :D
 
Where do you get all those engines?

I got a 6* Ticket from daily driving yesterday, which is really rare... and only got money. :(
I might have just been really lucky, I only had one each of the Escudo and GT-R GT500 engines. I can't remember now what tickets they came from, there might have been an engine ticket for one of the "collect 3 cars" things?
 
Bond....... James Bond (I actually said that out loud a couple of times 👀 with a Sean Connery accent :lol:)
I Tried a couple of times without the wing but that rear end is just too loose to keep under control with my current driving skills. I Fitted the wing and the added down force makes a huge difference. I Still didn't win it first time but barely made it on the second go. The car looks fugly with the wing so the pic is from one of the wing less attempts.
 

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Bond....... James Bond (I actually said that out loud a couple of times 👀 with a Sean Connery accent :lol:)
I Tried a couple of times without the wing but that rear end is just too loose to keep under control with my current driving skills. I Fitted the wing and the added down force makes a huge difference. I Still didn't win it first time but barely made it on the second go. The car looks fugly with the wing so the pic is from one of the wing less attempts.
The DB5 should NEVER wear a wing. That would just look plain wrong. Sacrilege! But if it can win the race wearing one, then I'll let it pass as long as I don't have to see it... ;)
 
I just did 26:36 with the MR-2 with the R8 engine swap, but I won't post the setup as it's completely bugged. The car is oversteery, but when I removed the front aero it didn't change the PP or the min downforce, the gear ratio top speed setting has no effect, and if I swap from fully customisable suspension to height adjustable it adds 20 PP, so it's basically all just a joke.
 
I just did 26:36 with the MR-2 with the R8 engine swap, but I won't post the setup as it's completely bugged. The car is oversteery, but when I removed the front aero it didn't change the PP or the min downforce, the gear ratio top speed setting has no effect, and if I swap from fully customisable suspension to height adjustable it adds 20 PP, so it's basically all just a joke.
A Pretty big chunk of GT7 is a joke but it still keeps me entertained :cheers:
 
This is an older basic setting i use one of my first engine swaps,it still works fine,it does oversteer a little but you know that.I just stop for fuel only,i also never add racing discs on Tokyo only racing pads,and use the pp elsewhere.There are only 2 real braking points to worry about and once you get into your rythm i find you tend to adjust your braking points. 👍

MR2 (1).jpg
MR2 (2).jpg

I just did 26:36 with the MR-2 with the R8 engine swap, but I won't post the setup as it's completely bugged. The car is oversteery, but when I removed the front aero it didn't change the PP or the min downforce, the gear ratio top speed setting has no effect, and if I swap from fully customisable suspension to height adjustable it adds 20 PP, so it's basically all just a joke.
 
Is this on hard difficulty, and do you wall ride? I'm not the fastest, but I'm consistantly 4-5sec slower per lap then you, with no wallriding. Maybe I just need to git gud :D
No wall riding for me, the physics are unbearable and it seems pointless when a clean win takes only slightly longer. I think it's set to Easy, but doesn't make much difference. Hard is maybe 10-15 seconds faster but it's pretty random.

Are you using the exact same tune? Auto or Manual? Controller or wheel?

I'm using manual gears with wheel, but with Auto on Controller the Tokyo grind is slower due to higher fuel usage and tyre wear.
 
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No wall riding for me, the physics are unbearable and it seems pointless when a clean win takes only slightly longer. I think it's set to Easy, but doesn't make much difference. Hard is maybe 10-15 seconds faster but it's pretty random.

Are you using the exact same tune? Auto or Manual? Controller or wheel?

I'm using manual gears with wheel, but with Auto on Controller the Tokyo grind is slower due to higher fuel usage and tyre wear.
Was just messing about on the pad, need to try it on the wheel as I am considerably faster there. Using manual and only ABS, same as on the wheel.

Will give it another go when I have the wheel set up 😁
 
No wall riding for me, the physics are unbearable and it seems pointless when a clean win takes only slightly longer. I think it's set to Easy, but doesn't make much difference. Hard is maybe 10-15 seconds faster but it's pretty random.

Are you using the exact same tune? Auto or Manual? Controller or wheel?

I'm using manual gears with wheel, but with Auto on Controller the Tokyo grind is slower due to higher fuel usage and tyre wear.
I dont think the easy/normal/hard settings make a difference on this race. I tried normal and hard settings, ran a 24.2xx race times and lapped everyone at the same time and had the same MOV each time. I saw zero difference between the 2 settings.
 
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I dont think the easy/normal/hard settings make a difference on this race. I tried normal and hard settings, ran a 24.2xx race times and lapped everyone at the same time and had the same MOV each time. I saw zero difference between the 2 settings.
What's "MOV"??

From my understanding, the AI drive slightly faster and more aggressive depending on which level you choose. Using a car which is miles faster than the AI you won't notice the difference, but using a car which is evenly matched and means you have to work for a win you'll likely have to work much harder on Hard than Easy.

So running a 24:20 race time (I'm guessing that's a glitched tune) you're not going run into much difficulty battling the AI for the lead in the dying stages of the race...
 
24.20 race time and lapping everyone,thats going some. 👍 Id love to see a video so i can see where im going wrong!

You're probably not doing anything wrong.

I think, under the current physics and event rules, 24:20 on Tokyo WTC 600 is only possible with...
1. The Rottuccino (RX7 engine in Suzuki Cappucino)
2. The Ultra-high rpm Turbo (gift part)
3. Some wallriding (maybe only T1).

Or:

4. Alien DNA
 
What times are your opponents turning in? Mine are lapping between 2:10 and 2:08 and there's no way I can keep up
Some of them are on Softs, so they pit twice. If you're using a no-stop strategy you gain 50 seconds on them so if you can lap under 2:15 you should get the win... Note for regular cars your 1st lap is usually around 2:30, then improves as the track dries. Have a look at the lap times posted in the many screen shots in this thread
 
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Some of them are on Softs, so they pit twice. If you're using a no-stop strategy you gain 50 seconds on them so if you can lap under 2:15 you should get the win... Note for regular cars your 1st lap is usually around 2:30, then improves as the track dries. Have a look at the lap times posted in the many screen shots in this thread
Thanks! I haven't yet gotten past lap 4-5 or so because I'm so far down but knowing they're likely to stop more than once gives me an idea. I've got a WRX GR.4 downtuned to 599.99PP running Inters. If I short shift and run fuel map 2 for a lap or two I gain enough fuel usage to not stop, and I can lap in the 2:18s or so with it. Might give that a whirl tomorrow and just play it out to see what happens. If I get the win great and if not I'll have a better idea moving forward what I can use.

Appreciate the tip!
 
Thanks! I haven't yet gotten past lap 4-5 or so because I'm so far down but knowing they're likely to stop more than once gives me an idea. I've got a WRX GR.4 downtuned to 599.99PP running Inters. If I short shift and run fuel map 2 for a lap or two I gain enough fuel usage to not stop, and I can lap in the 2:18s or so with it. Might give that a whirl tomorrow and just play it out to see what happens. If I get the win great and if not I'll have a better idea moving forward what I can use.

Appreciate the tip!
Gr. 4 cars can run well even on Sports Hards. I use them with no stops on Fuel Map 1.

NSX Gr. 4 is also a good one.
 
Thanks! I haven't yet gotten past lap 4-5 or so because I'm so far down but knowing they're likely to stop more than once gives me an idea. I've got a WRX GR.4 downtuned to 599.99PP running Inters. If I short shift and run fuel map 2 for a lap or two I gain enough fuel usage to not stop, and I can lap in the 2:18s or so with it. Might give that a whirl tomorrow and just play it out to see what happens. If I get the win great and if not I'll have a better idea moving forward what I can use.

Appreciate the tip!
Tokyo is a marathon for most cars. You need to have a race time < 27:50 to win, thats 1670 seconds, if you do a 2:40 starting lap, you have 1510 seconds left for 11 laps, thats 2:17. So 2:18 might be really close, sometimes AI is slower though.

The GR4 Huracan a bit detuned with Downforce and Ballast/ECU can do no stop race on SH and easily wins because he is still very fast on the straight. I'm not that good of a driver, so i profit a lot more from cars that can achieve a good topspeed on the straight, rather than being slower but have better grip for the turns, because i can't compensate enough for the seconds i lose on the straight.

And yes, other GR4 cars seem to be good there too. Another good option is the R8, Impreza 99 or Mustang Boss tune from praiano.
 
Thanks! I haven't yet gotten past lap 4-5 or so because I'm so far down but knowing they're likely to stop more than once gives me an idea. I've got a WRX GR.4 downtuned to 599.99PP running Inters. If I short shift and run fuel map 2 for a lap or two I gain enough fuel usage to not stop, and I can lap in the 2:18s or so with it. Might give that a whirl tomorrow and just play it out to see what happens. If I get the win great and if not I'll have a better idea moving forward what I can use.

Appreciate the tip!
I ran the Bugatti Veyron Gr.4 last night for a test, stock power with SH tyres fitted to drop below 600PP. First lap was 2:34. Second lap was 2:20. Each lap thereafter dropped slightly for the next 5 laps or so until I was running steady 2:17 laps. Even with a no-stop, Kokubun managed to get past me and win by about 6s. So I went to GT Auto, slapped on a High RPM turbo and it came to 597PP with about 100hp more than previously. In the race my first lap was down to 2:32 (traffic induced, mostly), but already on the second lap I'd knocked over 3s off my previous attempt. My best lap was a 2:13ish and most laps were in the 14's. Again, no-stop race and managed to win by over 26s running a 27:20 race time.
 
Thanks! I haven't yet gotten past lap 4-5 or so because I'm so far down but knowing they're likely to stop more than once gives me an idea. I've got a WRX GR.4 downtuned to 599.99PP running Inters. If I short shift and run fuel map 2 for a lap or two I gain enough fuel usage to not stop, and I can lap in the 2:18s or so with it. Might give that a whirl tomorrow and just play it out to see what happens. If I get the win great and if not I'll have a better idea moving forward what I can use.

Appreciate the tip!
Most Gr4 cars are great for this,i add manual custom trans not racing,SH`s not IM`s and add a turbo then mess with ballast and power to get 600pp.The reason i add manual and not racing trans is racing adds too much pp,manual tends to drop it but doesnt shift quite as quick,its horses for courses really.The NSX Gr4 was one of the first cars i tried on Tokyo,i can do non stop on FM1,just mess with the trans to get a good top speed,dont try and win the race on the first lap.Im nowhere as fast as some people on here but with a gr4 i can catch Gallo by lap 3 but not always able to pass him until he pits on lap 5 or 6,then just pace myself.
With cars that i need to pit i aim for lap 7 or 8.Keep at it,it will just`click`eventually then you can try different cars,this is my NSX Gr4.
Another good one for me is the Mclaren MP4-12C,but i have to fiddle with fuel maps to make my pit on lap 8.
NSX Gr4 543hp 1443kg 600PP SH (1).jpg
NSX Gr4 543hp 1443kg 600PP SH (2).jpg
 
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I have yet to buy and try the MP4-12C but I'm looking forward to using your tune for it!
I wouldnt call it a`tune`as such,i added a high rpm turbo,race silencer,race pads and custom manual transmission.i added a little ballast to make the 600pp.If i remember its around 630hp,i do FM1 on the straight then FM6 through the twistys,pit for fuel at the end of lap 7 or 8,your choice.Someone with a bit of tuning knowledge could make this a lot faster but its a win for me as it is,either with custom or stock suspension its good out of the box.I also think its better value than the F1,until pd nerf it.lol
 
I have yet to buy and try the MP4-12C but I'm looking forward to using your tune for it!
try this:

btw. is it easier to change FM on a wheel? On pad, using the stick to steer the car, it's always a little struggle to leave the stick so i can push the digipad to change FM.
 
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