Wow... your setup is not the best... i just tried it and rear comes around very easily. How you managed to do 2:04 on RH with it?
Do you use stick or wheel ? I always make sure the car almost straight / I won't lift off anymore before hammering the throttle and trail brake with some throttle to avoid lift off oversteer, and if it does become loose under braking, apply some throttle to regain rear traction.@Ridox2JZGTE, "tamed" Ultra:
Height: 55 / 55
Springs: 15.12 / 20.86
DampComp: 4 / 4
DampExt: 6 / 5
ARB: 5 / 5
Camber: 3.0 / 1.0
TOE: -0.03 / +0.04 (only place where I have doubts PD "physics", maybe there is comma error on PD side?)
BrakeBias: 2 / 2 (or some what you want, using 2/2 on noABS online real grip)
LSD(I/A/B): 21 / 37 / 17
Aero; 380 / 805
Just for relaxed drive, it can go fast, works from RH to RS tires, easy cruiser is my thoughts about it
Oil Changed, not extra power added, setup is working even on stage3 or turbo something, but made for default power.
definitely quick if pushing hard, but it reminds you when making steering corrections on corner, and you have to be ready with throttle to grab rear on control again. I was working on balance of car with my tune, all altered settings are "clued" together, now it is stable, small changes and you can make it understeer or oversteer small amounts if it suits on personal driving more than "stable", reducing 1 click on front wing and it starts to understeer, adding 1 click there and it oversteer, or on rear wing scaling 1 to 5 adding more you can change how much understeer you want, pretty much same on reducing wing on rear too to get oversteer.
Whole tune idea was to leave as much default as I can, Cambers are "originals", reduced TOE removes pulling on under braking and helps when going over curbs (still not for curb scrapping).
By leaving close to default I achieved to maintain car personality, but cut out most bad temper of it.
Comparing to your tune; Your tune is quick tune, had some doubts about that "parachute" LSD, I don't like how it breaks traction on corner entry or in corner if reducing throttle, not for relaxed drive
Like I said, didn't want to change car personality, just hold it and make it for casual driving and still leaving possibility to go fast with it
Go and test that and tell me how it really feels
Try use 0 camber at the rear, without changing anything else, you will feel there's more grip at the rear and might have understeer as a result. I usually have 18s 1st sector ( long straight after 1st corner ), and last sector at conrod at 1:35s ( if I remember correctly ) - stock gearing and aero.
@Ridox2JZGTE , where i can find your latest setup for R8??
I drive on the gamepad. Basically, what i'm trying to achieve by tuning suspension of this car, is ridding off this ridiculous oversteer in turns. I want to be able to turn the wheels and not to spin because of weight transfer. I want to hit the gas pedal to the floor when cornering to safely exit with maximum speed. Your setup is nice overall if driving carefully, but still rear wheels like to spin, and it's bad at braking. Maybe with steering wheel it's better than with gamepad.
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I drive on the gamepad. Basically, what i'm trying to achieve by tuning suspension of this car, is ridding off this ridiculous oversteer in turns. I want to be able to turn the wheels and not to spin because of weight transfer. I want to hit the gas pedal to the floor when cornering to safely exit with maximum speed.
I spend around 5000 km in this car and i came to some decent results which suit my driving style. But still i have to remember that this is MR car and it requires subtle steering inputs.
I watched Liquid Moly Bathurst 12 Hours race yesterday, there was lot of Audis out there, i didn't see single one to behave extremely unstable like in GT6. In GT6 Audi R8 jumps over evry bump on the race track, in real life suspension of the car dampens any imperfections of the race track surface, and car is far from jumping and shaking all over the track like in GT6.
I think we should organize some online lobby just for this car, to test set up, compare and share our thoughts
and oversteer on exit is more due to the front grip overwhelm the rear as I run very low camber up front, this requires delicate steering input as a result ( tricky on analog stick ). Increase front camber to 1.2 max, this will make the car more stable and more tolerances to abrupt steering input. but reduces front grip
Ridox2JZGTEThat's fine, don't want to hassle you. I just wanted to know sector times
My best lap was mid 2:04s Thanks, now I know where to improve, I usually messed up the last left turn before conrod - them tire stacks ( forest elbow ? ) I can almost flat out on top of the hill - reach close to 230kmh before the downhill esses.
I am also on stick controller ( no ABS or any other aids ), my tune can be accessed from my sig, it's on page 3 1st post of my garage thread. Please read the tuning notes and the bolded part next to camber and toe, as well as optional spring rates for various track surfaces. My tune is setup for trail braking, so the car more likely won't like brake mashing
How much steering sensitivity are you running ? I am using +1
1:33s at Conrod, I see where I am losing time
Have you tried it online?
No wonder the car handled bad My best lap offline test drive at Brands Hatch GP low 1:22s with some mishap, 1:21s definitely possible 
