Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Guys, I've tracked almost all internet and every forum.... Seems Thrustmaster have a big problem with those wheels. Especially T300 and T150 (T150 less). This is very disappointing since GT Sport is supporting only Sh**tmaster and Logitech G29. I was going to buy T300RS GT edition but now considering all of it I think I might be getting logitech G29 (I know its old wheel but is a least reliable) and enjoy playing GT sport (not waiting moths to swap repaired t300 units on and on wasting my time) :( my heart is torn
 
sems4arsenal
Apparently I bought my wheel from the UK during mid 2015. Is there any chance I can file a warranty claim?
Click to expand...
You get 2 years warranty I believe, you need proof of purchase. Just raise a support request with Thrustmaster, they will ask you to send a short video clip to them of the issue. When you get response let us know and I’ll advise you on how to proceed. I have sent you a pm !
 
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Does anybody think the PS4 might be causing issues? My T300 works fine for hours on GT6 on PS3, but when I play PS4 it starts acting up. Last night on GT Sport, it started typing "1"s into the text box and felt like it had a slight vibration on the menus. Every few minutes in the game, the wheel would just quit and I have to unplug and plug back in.

In Assetto Corsa, the FFB will just quit. In Dirt Rally, the whole wheel quits like in GT Sport.

I saw on another forum that someone had a voltage between the wheel and his wheel stand with just the usb plugged in but only on PS4.
 
Hi all,

So I've been playing a fair bit at sport race and have been using the pedal shifter a fair bit with the Group 4 race. I'm using the t300rs Ferrari alcantara wheel and realise that the right paddle shifter has lost its "click", it still work but do not have the click feedback.

Did some research and went ahead on opening the steering wheel and stretch the springs and it worked.

Thing is, while I opened the steering wheel, a third spring fell off before I had to chance to see where it is supposed to be. The two springs for the paddle shifter is still intact, and I have a third spring where I'm not sure where it goes to? Is it the d pad?

Appreciate if someone could shine some light on this.

Thank you! Would like to get it working
 
klvru
Hi all,

So I've been playing a fair bit at sport race and have been using the pedal shifter a fair bit with the Group 4 race. I'm using the t300rs Ferrari alcantara wheel and realise that the right paddle shifter has lost its "click", it still work but do not have the click feedback.

Did some research and went ahead on opening the steering wheel and stretch the springs and it worked.

Thing is, while I opened the steering wheel, a third spring fell off before I had to chance to see where it is supposed to be. The two springs for the paddle shifter is still intact, and I have a third spring where I'm not sure where it goes to? Is it the d pad?

Appreciate if someone could shine some light on this.

Thank you! Would like to get it working
Click to expand...
There are two springs on each paddle shifter and one spring on each button.

 
Thanks for the reply, been searching for such video. But I have all the 2 springs on each paddle shifter and one spring on each of the button.

I still have one spring that's "lost" lol. Looking through the video, the rear end does not have any other spring.

Suspecting is the d pad now. Do you know if the d pad had a spring in it?
 
klvru
Thanks for the reply, been searching for such video. But I have all the 2 springs on each paddle shifter and one spring on each of the button.

I still have one spring that's "lost" lol. Looking through the video, the rear end does not have any other spring.

Suspecting is the d pad now. Do you know if the d pad had a spring in it?
Click to expand...

The third one is to make a ground connection between the PCB and the metal of the wheel. On the back of the wheel rim there's a spot where they've scratched through the finish to the metal, which will guide you where it fits.

As for paddle clicks, I got mine more even sounding by rotating the springs a bit. It's as if there's a sweet spot for where the end of the spring wire should be.
 
My new T300RS GT seems to randomly disconnect, or lose FFB sometimes, seen it on PC and GTS. Luckily its rare, but I'm guessing this is a known issue with the latest firmware, or perhaps just an odd thing for the wheel itself?
 
Mine does this too. It started doing it a few months ago. Used to work fine. Idk what it is. Still worked fine on GT6 last time I played it but now it will cut out in the middle of racing or even on menu screens in GTS
 
I guess it's a minor relief to hear I'm not the only one whose T300RS disconnects or looses FFB randomly in GTS. I thought it was breaking down already. Still quite disappointing, since I bought the damn thing specifically for GTS a week ago. Do we now have to wait for a game patch for GT Sport, a firmware update or should I just try to return the wheel/switch to a different one?

I would still be using my12y old DFP if it were possible. Had no problems with that one in any of the 5 GT-games preceding GT Sport.
 
thesynergy87
My new T300RS GT seems to randomly disconnect, or lose FFB sometimes, seen it on PC and GTS. Luckily its rare, but I'm guessing this is a known issue with the latest firmware, or perhaps just an odd thing for the wheel itself?
Click to expand...

Tuuba-A
I guess it's a minor relief to hear I'm not the only one whose T300RS disconnects or looses FFB randomly in GTS. I thought it was breaking down already. Still quite disappointing, since I bought the damn thing specifically for GTS a week ago. Do we now have to wait for a game patch for GT Sport, a firmware update or should I just try to return the wheel/switch to a different one?

I would still be using my12y old DFP if it were possible. Had no problems with that one in any of the 5 GT-games preceding GT Sport.
Click to expand...

There's a thread over on isrtv where it seems that a couple of people fixed their wheel problems with a cotton bed sheet. Their theory was static electricity from the seat material discharging through their playseat stand and messing with the wheel somehow. I don't have a playseat, but I'm going to try this out and see if by any chance I have the same problem since idk what material my seat is and my rig is on carpet.

Seems crazy but I guess it's worth a shot
 
Well mine died just yesterday after having it for 1 week!

I have bought it brand new for GTsport together with a playseat challenge (which is great btw) and whilst playing a rally race it just stopped for half a second when i was in a sharp left turn (as if the wheel actually just stopped working for 1 second) and then it turned on again. Resulting that the wheel was now calibrated 200 degrees to the left. it picked up where i left the wheel in the corner, so it was instantly calibrated badly.
So if i would see the virtual hands and steering wheel at zero (so straight basically) my actual wheel (T300) was set 200 degrees to the left.
I tried resetting, tried the firmware updater, tried calibrating on my PC and on my PS4, tried other games, and it remains broken.

1 week lads and gals.. think about that before you consider buying this wheel.
Yes when it works it is great, but the horror stories are very, very real. Now lets see how fast they can fix this problem.
 
Has anyone replaced their center badge on T300/T300 Alcantara wheel. I would like to replace the Ferrari badge on my Alcantara Edition, with the TM badge from the “Leather Edition”.
 

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Dkay
Haha not a massive fan, no!
Would love a Mercedes badge:lol:
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Would like that too! Too bad Mercedes doesn’t license gaming peripherals (yet).
Maybe something on ebay/Amazon? Don’t know the size but maybe the hood badges might fit?
 
I found out there's a fan mode for this wheel. Press ST (option) and the mode button at the same time. This makes the fan stay on constantly. I noticed much less FFB fading and it took way longer for the wheel to cut out on me, but it still happened. I'm thinking of maybe doing a fan mod with something more powerful and drilling some more holes in the cover to allow for better airflow.

Another thing I noticed is that when the wheel cut out, the buttons still work, but not according to the PS4. After it cut out I tested the buttons by pressing the D pad left and right and mode buttons to set the degrees of rotation and the wheel recognized what I was trying to do fine. I'm still thinking its a PS4 issue or something to do with the data output on the USB side of the wheel. But last time I played GT6 on PS3 it didn't cut out at all
 
I have a lead foot and and kept locking up my brakes so i decided to mod my T300 brake pedal as per this video



My result



It has made a big difference, and is a Very cheap and effective way without splashing out for new pedals, the thing is called a Stoppy :D
 
My T300 just slammed back and forth for 3 hours and burnt it's ass up. What a pile of crap. I'll never consider a thrustmaster again. That thing worked for maybe 30 hours of race time. My G27 worked countless hours, never one issue. Back to Logitech for me. Thrustmaster is pure trash.
 
Help please! I've been using my T300RS for months on PC with Fanatec pedals. No issues. Just got GT Sport and pulled out the stock T300RS pedals and am getting no response from them.

Hooked them up to my computer and updated the firmware, but the calibration utility does not see the accelerator or brake pedal. Any ideas? Can they be repaired? Can I buy a new set of these crappy pedals somewhere? I'm only going to use them for PS4 since I have the Fanatec pedals hooked up to my rig for iracing.

I also saw there's a box to allow me to use my fanatec pedals on PS4 with the T300RS, but from what I can see it's out of stock and months to get one potentially. Plus that's not really the best option since my fanatec pedals are screwed into the base of my cockpit.
 
Kendo33
Help please! I've been using my T300RS for months on PC with Fanatec pedals. No issues. Just got GT Sport and pulled out the stock T300RS pedals and am getting no response from them.

Hooked them up to my computer and updated the firmware, but the calibration utility does not see the accelerator or brake pedal. Any ideas? Can they be repaired? Can I buy a new set of these crappy pedals somewhere? I'm only going to use them for PS4 since I have the Fanatec pedals hooked up to my rig for iracing.

I also saw there's a box to allow me to use my fanatec pedals on PS4 with the T300RS, but from what I can see it's out of stock and months to get one potentially. Plus that's not really the best option since my fanatec pedals are screwed into the base of my cockpit.
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There are loads of pedalsets offered on second hand websites from people just like you. Dumping the standard pedals for better ones. You can hook up Logitech pedals to the base with an adapter that thrustmaster sells (€10,-) if you can get those pedals on the cheap.
 
PocketZeven
There are loads of pedalsets offered on second hand websites from people just like you. Dumping the standard pedals for better ones. You can hook up Logitech pedals to the base with an adapter that thrustmaster sells (€10,-) if you can get those pedals on the cheap.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Just ordered the adapter from ricmotech. I have old G25 pedals as well so that will work perfectly. I knew there had to be something other than this CPX adapter.
 

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