Break out the Credit Card https://www.ricmotech.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=THR-R383&CartID=1
I was thinking about doing the opposite,T150 two pedal set with CSL elite wheel.
I was gonna ask why would you do that? Then I saw what you did. Crafty work there sir.
Those are some heavy duty pedals!
Surely they’re referring to the possibility of pinch hazards.
This is useful to prevent overheating:“Forced” cooling mode.
Hey guys is the t300 actually supposed to calibrate again when booting up GT sport? Mine only calibrates on ps4 boot up and it seems to work fine.Kendo33
The T300RS/GT Sport combination has been a nightmare for me. I've been all over various forums asking why my wheel did not work in GTS.
Well after some good suggestions from people on GT Planet I may be able to help you out.
1. Use PS3 Mode for the "T300RS "ALCANTAR" Ferrari wheel in GTSport. If you don't own a special edition Thrustmaster wheel base it might be a good thing.
Why? Because PD/Sony did not include any of the button functions for anything other than the regular T300RS. It seem the GT sponsored wheels like the T500RS are good to go. But any "Special" wheels like Ferrari or Ferrari XXX packages are not on the menu. This means your button functions are basically screwed completely up. More on that later.
2. If you are using the TH8-RS shifter, plug it into the wheel base. Do not plug the wheel and shifter into your PS4.
3. Insure the RED Mode light is one.
After making the setting changes to your wheel base, restart your PS4. It should do the calibration routine, you know spin left, spin right and center itself while the PS is booting.
THIS IS IMPORTANT: You know GT Sport has recognized your T300RS if it calibrates again when you start GT Sport.
As for the buttons, I would try setting them all to N/A except for the shift paddles. This way you can go in and test which buttons actually work for the special T300RS wheels. It's a sad thing, but it seems to be the only way. I would hope PD/Sony will eventually include the full range of Thrustmaster wheel models.
I believe it also states a sequence to plugging everything in on set up before powering up too.Sorry for the double post, but in an effort to keep my new T300 running for years to come I read and reread the instruction manual thoroughly to make sure I’m operating it properly. Some interesting notes:
- The USB sliding switch on the racing wheel’s base must always be set to the proper position (PS3 or PS4) before connecting to the wheel’s USB cable to the system. To change the sliding switch position, disconnect the USB cable from the system and then change the position of the switch before reconnecting the USB cable to the system.
Also, I wonder how many failures are a result of not using a surge protector. Incidentally the manual doesn’t mention it, but I always use one for all expensive electronics anyway.
And my personal favorite warning from the manual which it seems hardly anyone heeds (myself included):
Why, will the pedals suddenly burst into flames?
- For safety reasons, never use the pedal set with bare feet or while wearing only socks on your feet. THRUSTMASTER DISCLAIMS ALL RESPONSIBILITY IN THE EVENT OF INJURY RESULTING FROM USE OF THE PEDAL SET WITHOUT SHOES.
It did on PS3 with GT5 and 6, twice. Once on power up and once when booting the game. I don’t have Sport (yet) but on the betas it didn’t calibrate when booting the game.
I tried this today with T150 and it does not work,which means it will not work with the T300 also.
Thanks for the follow up! Good to know. I searched around for RJ12 connectors with the off center tab, which I read is non modular, but didn’t find much. I thought I might buy the Elite pedals then re wire the Thrustmaster pedal connector but that would be an expensive opps if they didn’t work. Fortunately it was the holiday season and my wife bought me a set of T3PA Pros.
Problem solved!
