Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
turismoslayer
Thanks for the follow up! Good to know. I searched around for RJ12 connectors with the off center tab, which I read is non modular, but didn’t find much. I thought I might buy the Elite pedals then re wire the Thrustmaster pedal connector but that would be an expensive opps if they didn’t work. Fortunately it was the holiday season and my wife bought me a set of T3PA Pros. :dopey: Problem solved!
Click to expand...

That's an acceptable solution :D

In case anyone else wants those connectors...

Outspacer
'OffSet Tail': http://www.mouser.co.uk/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=937-SP-3066R-OST

They can be crimped without the tool using small pliers and then a screwdriver to finish off. Obviously it would be far quicker and easier with the tool, but it's quite possible to get a good result without.
Click to expand...
 
turismoslayer
Acceptable indeed 👍. I also saw your link to the connectors from an earlier post but it’s for an RJ11 but maybe that may work also. I did some more searching and I think what we need is an RJ12 DEC MMP, modified modular plug. http://www.altex.com/RJ12-DEC-Type-Modular-Plug-6P6C-Stranded-MP-6D-P145452.aspx
Click to expand...

That looks like it would be correct as well, nice to have another term to use when searching for them! I know the ones from Mouser work because I made an adapter to use G29 pedals on my T300 :) The proper ID for the connector is 6P6C... RJ11 and RJ12 are actually wiring standards that use the same 6P connectors, but they're commonly misused to ID the plugs. RJ11 only uses 2 or 4 connections (6P2C / 6P4C) so the one on Mouser is possibly misnamed - it does have all connections so is 6P6C though.
 
I just wrote it in another thread about T300 RS but found a proper one here, so I'll just paste my post and hope anyone have a cloue.

"Well, I won't make new thread about this, because it doesn't make any sense but my T300 RS GT bought a month ago drives me nuts. I'm quite big guy and need a lot of FFB to feel comfortable enough to drive. First used deufalt FFB 6 in GT Sport but soon it became not enough, When set FFB to 8 during the race strength of FFB constantly decreased. And it repeated everytime during longer races of 15-30 min duration. Tried to race with FFB set to 10 and same stuff been going on. Looked in instruction and found out that thermostate regulates FFB due to temperature of device. And now it become worse T300RS just started to shut down - during the race steering wheel shuts down and I got notification from PS4 that device is disconnected. When FFB was set to 10 after some time it happened every 10 minutes. When device shuts down it turns on automaticaly after another 5-10 minutes. When decreased FFB to 6 now it shuts down once a day, approximately after 40 minutes of race. WTF?! Any ideas? Updater firmawe and turned forced cooling on."
 
Got a T300 in November. When I plug it in and it auto-calibrates it is about a cm off centre. Maybe half a cm. enough to notice when looking at it. Thrustmaster sucks. I tried their centreline calibration and it works but you have to do it every time you plug it in. The setting doesn't stay.
 
Since October (17) I have gone through three T300-RS wheels. A burnt out motor, snapped internals on the second, and the third started making this awful grinding sound on rotation so ended up getting my money back in the end. Three chances is fair enough IMO.

I recommend you guys above do the same while you still can.

I’ll be moving to a Fanatec set up
 
GTSportster
Got a T300 in November. When I plug it in and it auto-calibrates it is about a cm off centre. Maybe half a cm. enough to notice when looking at it. Thrustmaster sucks. I tried their centreline calibration and it works but you have to do it every time you plug it in. The setting doesn't stay.
Click to expand...
I’m sorry to hear that. I too had a slightly off center wheel after calibration. I did the manual self centering as well but only had to do it once a couple years ago shortly after I bought it. Aside from the common random button presses I’ve had no issues whatsoever.
 
turismoslayer
I’m sorry to hear that. I too had a slightly off center wheel after calibration. I did the manual self centering as well but only had to do it once a couple years ago shortly after I bought it. Aside from the common random button presses I’ve had no issues whatsoever.
Click to expand...

You are on PC or PS4?
What do you mean self centering? My wheel also is a bit of center. I am on PS4, did calibration on PC2, but wheel of center anyway.
 
Napalm_LT
You are on PC or PS4?
What do you mean self centering? My wheel also is a bit of center. I am on PS4, did calibration on PC2, but wheel of center anyway.
Click to expand...
I’m on PS4. There is a procedure to re-center the wheel. Try this out and make sure you do it in the PS4 menu before launching the game. http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00158.pdf

Basically we’re resetting the wheel center value and like it says on the last step you do not need to perform this procedure every time you connect the wheel.
 
Last edited:
Man.. Just reading back through this thread. People are still having issues with T300s.. which is a bummer.

Just to pop in a positive review.. I have had my current one without issues for over 2.5 years used on pCARS 1, Dirt Rally, SLRE, Assetto Corsa, Dirt 4, GTS, and WRC 7.. it still works awesome. Have had my TH8a shifter and my T3PA-Pros almost as long without issues.

Yes, my original T300 did have a fault but TM replaced it at no cost to me which is the one I have been using for years now.
 
HandyDan
Since October (17) I have gone through three T300-RS wheels. A burnt out motor, snapped internals on the second, and the third started making this awful grinding sound on rotation so ended up getting my money back in the end. Three chances is fair enough IMO.

I recommend you guys above do the same while you still can.

I’ll be moving to a Fanatec set up
Click to expand...

Hey can you explain that grinding issue to me? I got a T300 3 days ago and, in GT Sport, when I am turning left at a certain point it feels like the wheel is slipping through. I can still steer but it feels very rough. Only happens in left turns and in 2 out 3 cases. I tried some of my other racing games (f1 2017, the crew, project cars) and strangely I had no problems with the wheel in these games. Furthermore, I've already tried a lot of different settings in GT but it still occurs. It has nothing to do with FFB vibration because it still happens when FFB is off.
 
Guys, please I need your advice. I’m planning to come back to sim racing after 3 years and I already ordered the Fanatec V3 pedals, 4playracing cockpit, DSD shifter, oculus rift, a new pc and now I’m looking for the steering wheel.
I was thinking about the t300 with Alcantara wheel, but damn after reading into this thread I’m really very worried about purchasing this faulty steering wheel. Do you think that I should switch to the Fanatec CSL elite steering wheel?
For me ( Israel) the t300 Alcantara will cost me from Amazon about 700
Fanatec CSL elite about 900 $
So 200$ of difference. What do think guys? Is it worth to spend these extra 200 for the CSL elite over the t300?
Thanks
 
wajdi1977
Guys, please I need your advice. I’m planning to come back to sim racing after 3 years and I already ordered the Fanatec V3 pedals, 4playracing cockpit, DSD shifter, oculus rift, a new pc and now I’m looking for the steering wheel.
I was thinking about the t300 with Alcantara wheel, but damn after reading into this thread I’m really very worried about purchasing this faulty steering wheel. Do you think that I should switch to the Fanatec CSL elite steering wheel?
For me ( Israel) the t300 Alcantara will cost me from Amazon about 700
Fanatec CSL elite about 900 $
So 200$ of difference. What do think guys? Is it worth to spend these extra 200 for the CSL elite over the t300?
Thanks
Click to expand...

If you play only on a PC you might want to look at this.
 
super_gt
If you play only on a PC you might want to look at this.
Click to expand...
Thank, yes only pc sim racer here. I saw this and the one from FeelVR upcoming DD steering wheel. This one from Sim-pli.city is unavailable for now and I need a good steering wheel this month( can’t wait to race with the oculus rift).
 
nussini
Hey can you explain that grinding issue to me? I got a T300 3 days ago and, in GT Sport, when I am turning left at a certain point it feels like the wheel is slipping through. I can still steer but it feels very rough. Only happens in left turns and in 2 out 3 cases. I tried some of my other racing games (f1 2017, the crew, project cars) and strangely I had no problems with the wheel in these games. Furthermore, I've already tried a lot of different settings in GT but it still occurs. It has nothing to do with FFB vibration because it still happens when FFB is off.
Click to expand...
that's just how GTS likes to indicate you're at the understeer limit. You'll see the little red dot go to the edge and beyond that you'll get a rumble in the wheel. Nothing to worry about
 
John G
that's just how GTS likes to indicate you're at the understeer limit. You'll see the little red dot go to the edge and beyond that you'll get a rumble in the wheel. Nothing to worry about
Click to expand...
Thank you for your answer, but I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with understeer since it only appears when turning left. It is difficult to explain but I did not have it on my T150. However, I solved it by switching the wheel in PS3 mode. I still don't know if it's hardware or software related but I think it's not important anymore. ;)
 
nussini
Thank you for your answer, but I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with understeer since it only appears when turning left. It is difficult to explain but I did not have it on my T150. However, I solved it by switching the wheel in PS3 mode. I still don't know if it's hardware or software related but I think it's not important anymore. ;)
Click to expand...


I do not like that rumble either.. it is like PD programmed that in for the fancy new wheel (T-GT) with its built in buttkicker, but it is not handled correctly by the T300.. or maybe it is and a lot of us just don't like it.

I also flip the switch to ps3 on my T300 when playing GTS. It is not like I feel it often because I am not constantly getting understeer but when it did happen it felt wrong. - I never really noticed it if only happens when turning left.. huh.
 
Pavulon1
I just wrote it in another thread about T300 RS but found a proper one here, so I'll just paste my post and hope anyone have a cloue.

"Well, I won't make new thread about this, because it doesn't make any sense but my T300 RS GT bought a month ago drives me nuts. I'm quite big guy and need a lot of FFB to feel comfortable enough to drive. First used deufalt FFB 6 in GT Sport but soon it became not enough, When set FFB to 8 during the race strength of FFB constantly decreased. And it repeated everytime during longer races of 15-30 min duration. Tried to race with FFB set to 10 and same stuff been going on. Looked in instruction and found out that thermostate regulates FFB due to temperature of device. And now it become worse T300RS just started to shut down - during the race steering wheel shuts down and I got notification from PS4 that device is disconnected. When FFB was set to 10 after some time it happened every 10 minutes. When device shuts down it turns on automaticaly after another 5-10 minutes. When decreased FFB to 6 now it shuts down once a day, approximately after 40 minutes of race. WTF?! Any ideas? Updater firmawe and turned forced cooling on."
Click to expand...
The cooling solution in the T300 is pure garbage - it's a terrible design and to make matters worse it is all dependant on an awful $1 fan. I have replaced the fan in mine with something more substantial and it has made a huge difference. If yours is new however then it will cause you warranty issues depending on how careful you are in terms of putting back the original equipment should your wheel fail further down the line.

You could consider returning it as faulty of course and buy a wheel from a company that puts value in build quality and customer service.
 
Well... So my T300 died. Legendary Autocalibration problem. I tried to solved it with this Calibration Motor program on PC, but the problem is coming back. (Fading FFB during gameplay)

I don't have guarantee left so i won't get new base from thrustmaster. I wonder if anyone was sending their wheels with this problem for payed Repair... How much did it cost? Or is it better to just buy new wheel... :/
 
Soulfresh_ACV
I watched the whole thing and was very surprise that his review was rather positive about the wheel and pedal set since he have access some high-end gear that most of us here would never be passionate enough to get.
Click to expand...
This guy has top of the line of everything. I was surprised too about the positive comments. His reviews are always super in-depth and always gives his honest unbiased opinion.
If only Thrustmaster would improve their QA and especially customer care. I just wish there were more option in the midrange market at the moment.
 
No doubt a working T300 is a great wheel when combined with a decent pedal set but its track record on reliability is very poor. I solved my random button activation so I have been using it lately but when I switch it on it calibrates twice so I doubt it will last much longer before the dreaded calibration failure arrives.
 
When people say they're thinking about buying a t300..... the cringe.... why?...why?...

People want a wheel to drive in a game or to drive into a retail store to get refunds?
 

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