Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
Kendo33
Help please! I've been using my T300RS for months on PC with Fanatec pedals. No issues. Just got GT Sport and pulled out the stock T300RS pedals and am getting no response from them.

Hooked them up to my computer and updated the firmware, but the calibration utility does not see the accelerator or brake pedal. Any ideas? Can they be repaired? Can I buy a new set of these crappy pedals somewhere? I'm only going to use them for PS4 since I have the Fanatec pedals hooked up to my rig for iracing.

I also saw there's a box to allow me to use my fanatec pedals on PS4 with the T300RS, but from what I can see it's out of stock and months to get one potentially. Plus that's not really the best option since my fanatec pedals are screwed into the base of my cockpit.
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Kendo33
The T300RS/GT Sport combination has been a nightmare for me. I've been all over various forums asking why my wheel did not work in GTS.
Well after some good suggestions from people on GT Planet I may be able to help you out.

1. Use PS3 Mode for the "T300RS "ALCANTAR" Ferrari wheel in GTSport. If you don't own a special edition Thrustmaster wheel base it might be a good thing.

Why? Because PD/Sony did not include any of the button functions for anything other than the regular T300RS. It seem the GT sponsored wheels like the T500RS are good to go. But any "Special" wheels like Ferrari or Ferrari XXX packages are not on the menu. This means your button functions are basically screwed completely up. More on that later.

2. If you are using the TH8-RS shifter, plug it into the wheel base. Do not plug the wheel and shifter into your PS4.

3. Insure the RED Mode light is one.

After making the setting changes to your wheel base, restart your PS4. It should do the calibration routine, you know spin left, spin right and center itself while the PS is booting.

THIS IS IMPORTANT: You know GT Sport has recognized your T300RS if it calibrates again when you start GT Sport.

As for the buttons, I would try setting them all to N/A except for the shift paddles. This way you can go in and test which buttons actually work for the special T300RS wheels. It's a sad thing, but it seems to be the only way. I would hope PD/Sony will eventually include the full range of Thrustmaster wheel models. :odd:
 
I can`t seem to adjust the angle of rotation from default on my T300RS in GT Sport, I have tried the d-pad left/right/mode but nothing seems to happen at all, it does say on the thrustmaster download that it probably won`t work in GT Sport

I am using my wheel straight out of the box, do I need to hook it up to a pc and update fIrmware?

Many thanks in anticipation
 
Last edited:
rikcougar
I can`t seem to adjust the angle of rotation from default on my T300RS in GT Sport, I have tried the d-pad left/right/mode but nothing seems to happen at all, it does say on the thrustmaster download that it probably won`t work in GT Sport

I am using my wheel straight out of the box, do I need to hook it up to a pc and update formware?

Many thanks in anticipation
Click to expand...

GT Sport automatically adjusts the rotation for each car. If you want a different degree of rotation, you can change it by holding Mode while pressing the left or right D-pad and counting the number of flashes of the Mode LED. However, the game will reset the degrees of rotation back to what it thinks it should be at the beginning of each race.
 
So ive been having overheating issues with my t300. I play GT sport with the settings usually at 5/5. If I turn the settings any higher, after about 30-45 minutes of driving the FFB is dramatically decreased. Im assuming this is the fail safe so the motors dont cook. But after talking with friends online and others in forums they can run their t300 at a much higher setting and have no overheating issues no matter how long they play. Ive only had the wheel for about a month. I called thrustmaster and they want me to send them a video of it happening. Not sure how I can show them the issue through video but whatever. If anyone else has/had this problem please help and let me know what you did to fix it.
 
DrNinjavitis
So ive been having overheating issues with my t300. I play GT sport with the settings usually at 5/5. If I turn the settings any higher, after about 30-45 minutes of driving the FFB is dramatically decreased. Im assuming this is the fail safe so the motors dont cook. But after talking with friends online and others in forums they can run their t300 at a much higher setting and have no overheating issues no matter how long they play. Ive only had the wheel for about a month. I called thrustmaster and they want me to send them a video of it happening. Not sure how I can show them the issue through video but whatever. If anyone else has/had this problem please help and let me know what you did to fix it.
Click to expand...
Have you tried this?-“Forced” cooling mode.
 
DrNinjavitis
So ive been having overheating issues with my t300. I play GT sport with the settings usually at 5/5. If I turn the settings any higher, after about 30-45 minutes of driving the FFB is dramatically decreased. Im assuming this is the fail safe so the motors dont cook. But after talking with friends online and others in forums they can run their t300 at a much higher setting and have no overheating issues no matter how long they play. Ive only had the wheel for about a month. I called thrustmaster and they want me to send them a video of it happening. Not sure how I can show them the issue through video but whatever. If anyone else has/had this problem please help and let me know what you did to fix it.
Click to expand...
Buy a new one via Amazon, swap your unit, send the old one back in the same box, you'll get a full refund and a new T300! You will never get thrustmaster to help. Make sure to keep the wheel plugged in after using it so it cools down, have a good grounded outlet, or voltage scrubber is also recommended. Pray your new one lasts longer.
 
Last edited:
DrNinjavitis
So ive been having overheating issues with my t300. I play GT sport with the settings usually at 5/5. If I turn the settings any higher, after about 30-45 minutes of driving the FFB is dramatically decreased. Im assuming this is the fail safe so the motors dont cook. But after talking with friends online and others in forums they can run their t300 at a much higher setting and have no overheating issues no matter how long they play. Ive only had the wheel for about a month. I called thrustmaster and they want me to send them a video of it happening. Not sure how I can show them the issue through video but whatever. If anyone else has/had this problem please help and let me know what you did to fix it.
Click to expand...
This is happening to my wheel as well. Unfortunately the warranty is expired.
The T300 is probably the worst piece of hardware ever as far as reliability goes. This is my third replacement, so fourth unit... All failed with different issues.
 
Fryto
This is happening to my wheel as well. Unfortunately the warranty is expired.
The T300 is probably the worst piece of hardware ever as far as reliability goes. This is my third replacement, so fourth unit... All failed with different issues.
Click to expand...
Then it allows you to try something:remove the top cover of the base and play without it to see if there is still overheating.This is how I play with mine T150 to avoid overheating,because I like to play with the maximum force feedback settings.
 
Been looking for a wheel to replace my dead T300 and it's tough. My main objective was to search for old stock of the G29 (the pound dropped significantly last year so everything more than doubled in price). Someone is selling a sealed G29 with a shifter for about 6.5K which isn't too bad. He lives far away though so I'm texting him to see what can be done. Yesterday a close friend told me he'll be willing to sell me his T300 (very slightly used) for 8K (included the 3 pedal option and the shifter) which is a pretty decent deal. Found a new G29 at a retailer for 11K which is option c (way too expensive though).

Not sure which route to go with. The T300 is much much better package, but I don't want to risk another failure (nor do I want a wheel that can barely last 2 years). The G29 is a downgrade but should last. Decisions, decisions.
 
sems4arsenal
Been looking for a wheel to replace my dead T300 and it's tough. My main objective was to search for old stock of the G29 (the pound dropped significantly last year so everything more than doubled in price). Someone is selling a sealed G29 with a shifter for about 6.5K which isn't too bad. He lives far away though so I'm texting him to see what can be done. Yesterday a close friend told me he'll be willing to sell me his T300 (very slightly used) for 8K (included the 3 pedal option and the shifter) which is a pretty decent deal. Found a new G29 at a retailer for 11K which is option c (way too expensive though).

Not sure which route to go with. The T300 is much much better package, but I don't want to risk another failure (nor do I want a wheel that can barely last 2 years). The G29 is a downgrade but should last. Decisions, decisions.
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Both wheels aren't that reliable so would recommend buying new with warranty if possible. Maybe look at the T-GT and CSL Elite, probably better to try and get them wheels cheap as they will probably be more reliable. Even T500RS latest revision seems quite reliable so that could be an alternative to look out for. I'm personally waiting for Logitech to come out with something new before upgrading from G27, they might be working on a belt and even direct drive wheels.

Why are the prices so high though, is it due to lack of a local distributor? A PS4 in Egypt is similar to UK prices but G29 similar in price as CSL Elite or T-GT in UK? :crazy: Probably cheaper to buy from other countries? Are there any countries like in Europe or Middle East you can buy from that aren't subject to high custom fees? How much would it cost for example buying something like T300RS from Amazon US? Is that 11K? Would it be cheaper to buy from UAE?: Link
 
Last edited:
Saidur_Ali
Both wheels aren't that reliable so would recommend buying new with warranty if possible. Maybe look at the T-GT and CSL Elite, probably better to try and get them wheels cheap as they will probably be more reliable. Even T500RS latest revision seems quite reliable so that could be an alternative to look out for. I'm personally waiting for Logitech to come out with something new before upgrading from G27, they might be working on a belt and even direct drive wheels.

Why are the prices so high though, is it due to lack of a local distributor? A PS4 in Egypt is similar to UK prices but G29 similar in price as CSL Elite or T-GT in UK? :crazy: Probably cheaper to buy from other countries? Are there any countries like in Europe or Middle East you can buy from that aren't subject to high custom fees? How much would it cost for example buying something like T300RS from Amazon US? Is that 11K? Would it be cheaper to buy from UAE?: Link
Click to expand...

The T500 is the best of both worlds but I can't find it. The prices are due to the laughable shipping and tax add on fees. the 11K is the G29 plus a little extra for the retailer. Shipping something directly from abroad is a massive gamble as they can charge you custom fees that will make you cry (there is no set rule) plus these things are heavy so shipping will cost a pretty penny. The last time I had a friend buy me the T300 from the UK and bring it with him (he has returned sadly now).

Both options can be considered new though. One is sealed and the one my friend has got used once or twice. There is no safe option sadly but it's a lot of money to gamble on one :( .

No clue what to do.
 
Is it possible to transfer the potentiometers (with the wire/cable connection to the wheel of course) of the T300 RS pedals to the G27 pedals?
 
RacerXph
Is it possible to transfer the potentiometers (with the wire/cable connection to the wheel of course) of the T300 RS pedals to the G27 pedals?
Click to expand...

I dunno, I just use an adapter like this one, to use G29 pedals with a T300. It would also work with G27 pedals.

edit: If you have a metal rig, you might encounter this issue when using an adapter, but there's a couple of simple fixes.
 
Last edited:
RacerXph
Is it possible to transfer the potentiometers (with the wire/cable connection to the wheel of course) of the T300 RS pedals to the G27 pedals?
Click to expand...
Why would you want to do that? Are the pots on the G27 spiking? I think you will find the Thrustmaster pots are smaller than the Logitech pots. There are small "lugs" on the pots that locate in slots on the G27 metal base to stop the body turning as you depress the pedals. You will find that Thrustmaster pots will not match the slots on the G27 so you will have to find a way to fix them. Also the shaft will be a different size. If you are good with your hands you can get it to work but a lot of trouble for absolutely no gain. i.e. there will be no better performance from the Thrustmaster pots over the Logitech ones.
 
I decided to buy the T3PA add-on pedals after reading the replies. Thank you by the way.

I've been using the 5-year old G27 pedal set with the T300 RS and no matter how I clean it, spiking still persists. Hence, I decided to explore if it is possible to transfer the T300 RS's pots to the G27 pedals.
 
p-coletray
Buy a new one via Amazon, swap your unit, send the old one back in the same box, you'll get a full refund and a new T300! You will never get thrustmaster to help. Make sure to keep the wheel plugged in after using it so it cools down, have a good grounded outlet, or voltage scrubber is also recommended. Pray your new one lasts longer.
Click to expand...
That's a pretty crappy thing to do to the retailer.
 
Wheel stand pro let me down and sent me the wrong rgs plate. Not even close to a thrustmaster fit!!!!
20171125_095149.jpg
 
Hi guys,
what’s the best fix for random Start button activation? My brand new wheel does it once every few hours and it’s very annoying.
T300 alcantara edition.
 
mr_lab_rat
Hi guys,
what’s the best fix for random Start button activation? My brand new wheel does it once every few hours and it’s very annoying.
T300 alcantara edition.
Click to expand...
Not 100% what you mean but try tightening the Allen screws on the front
 
The wheel randomly activates the Select (or Start) button which causes the game to pause. It’s seems to be fairly common problem.
I’ll try tightening everything.
 
About to setup my T300rs straight from the box... Trying to figure out if I should update the firmware or not. I'm reading on here some people never have updated their firmware and everything seems to be fine. Any suggestions?
 
SAMHAIN85
About to setup my T300rs straight from the box... Trying to figure out if I should update the firmware or not. I'm reading on here some people never have updated their firmware and everything seems to be fine. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Hook it up to a PC and see what firmware it's got already. If it's v26 already I'd leave it at that, since v27 (the latest) I think only adds support for the new wheel rims (R383 etc). I updated mine to v26 (from I think v23) just before v27 came out, in case there was anything that helped with cooling - haven't noticed any change though.
 
Daz555
That's a pretty crappy thing to do to the retailer.
Click to expand...
Bezos is worth 100 Billion, partly thanks to me for buying countless items. Also, thrustmaster treated me crappy. If you disagree, I see your point of view. Mean time I got a wheel again and it's working so far so good.
 
Hi,

after broken pedals, now the wheel itself is broken:



this happens every time I switch on the PS4.

After this wild "calibration" the wheel mostly stands out of the middle, which means it looks and drives a bit to the right. If anyone knows what happened here and how to solve it....

Thanks in advance,
D.
 

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