Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
G219
Good luck to you!

On another note, every time I let go of the wheel in Gt6, the uncontrollable oscillation starts. I've had a DFGT, G27, and a CSR, and now a T300. The T300 is by far the worst. Is this normal? I don't remember it at all with my CSR, and occasionally with my G27, much more with the DFGT...but still not as bad as the T300.

Do I need a firmware update? Is this just how the wheel is?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
try turning down your sensitvity it worked for me
 
Brit999
I ordered my T300 GTE about two months ago on Amazon UK. I got emails telling me it was delayed to the 20th November. Last night I got another email to say it was being dilivered today!

I hope its true!
Click to expand...

I had exactly the same dates for the RS and it was delivered yesterday. All working brilliantly along with the extra pedals. I will get another night's "testing" before Father Christmas takes it away for wrapping :(
 
G219, there was some discussion on this a few pages back. It is programmed to do that. And personally, i like it, but if you don't, as diesel mentioned, turn down the sensitivity setting in gt6.

micantony
From my understanding, the second Force Feedback setting (Sensitivity) is what is potentially causing that for you. It defaults to 8 in GT6 i think, turn it down to your liking. The higher the value, the more your wheel will shake at it's center with every bump and undulation in the track, even when going straight, it is not a 100% flat surface.

The first setting (Torque), it how hard the resistance of the wheel is. Turn it down if you don't want it to be so "Heavy" feeling.

good luck. Play around with them going from 1 to 10 and you will see what i mean.

I haven't found my sweet spot yet.
Click to expand...

G219
Good luck to you!

On another note, every time I let go of the wheel in Gt6, the uncontrollable oscillation starts. I've had a DFGT, G27, and a CSR, and now a T300. The T300 is by far the worst. Is this normal? I don't remember it at all with my CSR, and occasionally with my G27, much more with the DFGT...but still not as bad as the T300.

Do I need a firmware update? Is this just how the wheel is?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

diesel97
try turning down your sensitvity it worked for me
Click to expand...
 
Abula
Hi,

Im about to buy a Thrustmaster VG T300RS, but wondering what do you guys use or suggest for mounting?
Click to expand...

I am using the Playseat Challenge: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZELZDS/?tag=gtplanet-20

It folds up so there if there is a space issue it can be folded and put away. It is rock solid and the wheel fits perfectly. It is a bit more expensive than the stand that you are looking at.

I hope this helps.
 
micantony
G219, there was some discussion on this a few pages back. It is programmed to do that. And personally, i like it, but if you don't, as diesel mentioned, turn down the sensitivity setting in gt6.
Click to expand...
I'll just add that FFB Sensitivity is a sort of combined wheel weight, centering spring and "minimum force tweak" setting. The FFB Max Torque setting provides all of the simulated forces, and the FFB Sensitivity allows you to tweak how firm/stiff the wheel is, particularly around center.

On the T500 you need to turn FFB sensitivity down to 1 if you want to avoid oscillation on straights - and to be clear even at 1 you still feel every little bump in the road, because those are all felt via the FFB Max Torque setting. Lowering FFB Sensitivity to 1 reduces wheel weight, however that's not a big deal for the T500 which has some internal resistance anyway. I've never tried my T300 on the PS3, so not sure what setting would give the best compromise between wheel weight and oscillation.

I use FFB Max Torque 2-4 on the T500 (too low and it feels squishy and slows the wheel's maximum spin speed down, be prepared to change the Max Torque regularly depending on whether you drive road or race cars) and FFB Sensitivity 1. Feels nice, in many ways similar to how PC sims provide their FFB.
 
diesel97
try turning down your sensitvity it worked for me
Click to expand...

micantony
G219, there was some discussion on this a few pages back. It is programmed to do that. And personally, i like it, but if you don't, as diesel mentioned, turn down the sensitivity setting in gt6.
Click to expand...

skazz
I'll just add that FFB Sensitivity is a sort of combined wheel weight, centering spring and "minimum force tweak" setting. The FFB Max Torque setting provides all of the simulated forces, and the FFB Sensitivity allows you to tweak how firm/stiff the wheel is, particularly around center.

On the T500 you need to turn FFB sensitivity down to 1 if you want to avoid oscillation on straights - and to be clear even at 1 you still feel every little bump in the road, because those are all felt via the FFB Max Torque setting. Lowering FFB Sensitivity to 1 reduces wheel weight, however that's not a big deal for the T500 which has some internal resistance anyway. I've never tried my T300 on the PS3, so not sure what setting would give the best compromise between wheel weight and oscillation.

I use FFB Max Torque 2-4 on the T500 (too low and it feels squishy and slows the wheel's maximum spin speed down, be prepared to change the Max Torque regularly depending on whether you drive road or race cars) and FFB Sensitivity 1. Feels nice, in many ways similar to how PC sims provide their FFB.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info :cheers:, I'll start experimenting...at the moment there's way too much shaking for my liking.
 
Hello guys,

just quick update regarding my wheel base repair - got the statement from TM technical support - for those who are interested.

"We would like to inform you that the wheel base has been repaired by our technicians, and the issue will no longer occur. The only issue with the base was with the motor gear, which has been replaced."

So the "clunks" going from wheel base are probably caused with faulty motor gear.

I should receive the wheel base later this week - YES!!! :)
 
Got my T300 out of the package today and took some runs. Coming from the DFGT, the wheel is like butter. The stock pedals are going to take some time to get used to. Very stiff, and the brake seems to have about a centimeter of action. I managed to use muscle memory to get the most out of the DFGT brake, but it's a whole different ball game with the T300 brake. Doesn't seem to be much room for error. It seems to not engage when first pressed but goes from no response to locked in no time. I will have to relearn to drive. :crazy:
 
ccaranna
Got my T300 out of the package today and took some runs. Coming from the DFGT, the wheel is like butter. The stock pedals are going to take some time to get used to. Very stiff, and the brake seems to have about a centimeter of action. I managed to use muscle memory to get the most out of the DFGT brake, but it's a whole different ball game with the T300 brake. Doesn't seem to be much room for error. It seems to not engage when first pressed but goes from no response to locked in no time. I will have to relearn to drive. :crazy:
Click to expand...

You mean you have a big deadzone in the brake?

I had this with mine on both pedals. Decided to return for a refund as it was unusable.
 
Monty987
You mean you have a big deadzone in the brake?

I had this with mine on both pedals. Decided to return for a refund as it was unusable.
Click to expand...

I suppose it could be like a deadzone. Both pedals don't respond very quickly and then don't have much play before they're fully engaged. Hope the T3PA pedals are better (whenever they're available).
 
A centimeter of action on the brake is definitely NOT right. Which game? (PC sims offer brake gamma/sensitivity curve adjustment which might be an issue if it's not a hardware issue)
 
skazz
A centimeter of action on the brake is definitely NOT right. Which game? (PC sims offer brake gamma/sensitivity curve adjustment which might be an issue if it's not a hardware issue)
Click to expand...

GT6. I'm thinking I need to get used to the new/different pedal set.
 
Mine came Sat. The first thing I did was download drivers and profiler from TM website. I've been using it with Game Stock Car Extreme and GT6. Coming from a DFGT, I'm very impressed with the wheel ..and the pedals. The wheel hasn't made me any faster, but I'm sure it will as I get more familiar with it. The longer throttle and brake pedal travel is much more realistic. The adjustable rotation is nice too.
 
ccaranna
GT6. I'm thinking I need to get used to the new/different pedal set.
Click to expand...

Don't have that issue. Make sure you depress it all the way when it is initializing.

I come from DFGT too, and i love the stiffer brake. mine has full range of motion, so something is wrong with yours if you can't get that.

I did update the drivers when i first got mine though, not sure why that would matter, but give it a shot, maybe something was set up wrong with your brake out of the box.
 
micantony
Don't have that issue. Make sure you depress it all the way when it is initializing.

I come from DFGT too, and i love the stiffer brake. mine has full range of motion, so something is wrong with yours if you can't get that.

I did update the drivers when i first got mine though, not sure why that would matter, but give it a shot, maybe something was set up wrong with your brake out of the box.
Click to expand...

I'm going to give downloading the drivers a shot. I was thinking it was only for PC use, but what can it hurt. 👍 :)
 
my brake pedal was bad out of the box also (could only get 1/4 brake )
should have sent it back to NewEgg but i went the TM route instead ,that started on the 28th still waiting .
by the way i did hook it up to the PC and their is no pedal cal
 
Got my T300 GTE finally today, haven't opened it but on outside grey box, I have label with 24 Jul 2014 on it so wonder what took them so long to get stock in UK. Anyone else have date on label?
 
jirin_cz
Hello guys,

just quick update regarding my wheel base repair - got the statement from TM technical support - for those who are interested.

"We would like to inform you that the wheel base has been repaired by our technicians, and the issue will no longer occur. The only issue with the base was with the motor gear, which has been replaced."

So the "clunks" going from wheel base are probably caused with faulty motor gear.

I should receive the wheel base later this week - YES!!! :)
Click to expand...

Good to hear that. I just shipped my base yesterday to France. When did you ship your base?
I hope I get mine back before christmas.
 
I shipped mine on monday 27th October. Whole process should tak two weeks, but I will get my base back after three weeks as TM support is busy these day according to their words. Good luck with your repair.
 
I have had an issue with the brake pedal using the T3PA add on brake pedal. Happens in all games whether PC, PS3 or PS4. I have sent Thrustmaster an email so will hopefully have a reply shortly. I ordered directly from them in September but as I've only just got the wheel have only just started using it.

I have followed correct startup/calibration procedure and sometimes it appears fine. Then the brake comes on when I'm not pressing it. Also sometimes the brake doesn't register or will only register from 0-25%. Have tried with and without the conical brake mod in GT6, Driveclub, GTR2 and Game Stock Car Extreme. I'm going to try the standard pedal set now to see if it's just the add on pedals or a general issue with my T300rs.

EDIT:

The standard pedals worked fine. Tested the T3PA and still the issue and then...

I tried removing the included brake pedal mod and refitting it. This time I have turned on and no issues. It might be that the brake pedal has some sort of connection issue that happens now and again but this time it worked. Will see what Thrustmaster have to say.
 
Last edited:
EmaNymton
After I installed the T300RS on my PS3 I was completely shocked about
1.) the strength of the FF even in position 1
2.) the rotation angle 1080 degrees leads to situations where I have to steer cross-handed through hairpins or even change the grip! Currently you can change the wheels angle of rotation (see description below), but that doesn't work properly in GT6, as you have to re-do it again each time you start a new game or even if you just restart the current race!!!
3.) The resistance of the pedals is high, coming from Logitech where there is nearly no resistance at all and even in my real life car, the resistance of the pedals is much lower.
Click to expand...

I've just purchased a T300RS and am experiencing the same "symptoms" as above, after spending 4 days with the wheel, I'm not getting on very well. (my old wheel was a Logitech Driving Force Ex and I got on really well with that),

Have other people struggled to get used to these new modern wheels, or have you all taken to it like a duck to water ?
 
Last edited:
jirin_cz
Hello guys,

just quick update regarding my wheel base repair - got the statement from TM technical support - for those who are interested.

"We would like to inform you that the wheel base has been repaired by our technicians, and the issue will no longer occur. The only issue with the base was with the motor gear, which has been replaced."

So the "clunks" going from wheel base are probably caused with faulty motor gear.

I should receive the wheel base later this week - YES!!! :)
Click to expand...

This problem just stated happening with my 3 day old TX wheel. I am having it replaced through the retailers RMA.

My fear is that the replacement will be just as prone to developing that nasty clunk. I wish there was an easy fix.

My T300RS north American release seems to be holding up. I have a feeling it was an issue with the TX and the first batch of T300RS released in Europe and was corrected in the much delayed second batch of T300rs...hopefully.
 
Gek54
This problem just stated happening with my 3 day old TX wheel. I am having it replaced through the retailers RMA.

My fear is that the replacement will be just as prone to developing that nasty clunk. I wish there was an easy fix.

My T300RS north American release seems to be holding up. I have a feeling it was an issue with the TX and the first batch of T300RS released in Europe and was corrected in the much delayed second batch of T300rs...hopefully.
Click to expand...

I returned my first T300 and got a replacement as the original I purchased had a shocking 'clunk' that interfered with the driving experience. It was unusable as it created a delay/deadzone in the steering. Tomorrow I'm returning the replacement. The clunk is less than the first but still there and very distracting. It's all I think about when driving; waiting for that bloody 'clunk' to occur. I'm asking for a refund as I suspect this affects the batch of stock the retailer here has.

I'll wait until next year to purchase another now that Project Cars has been delayed. The wheel has great potential but not good enough that this issue wasn't picked up before being dispatched worldwide. I'm hoping that by the time I'm ready to get another that this has been sorted. Sounds like NZ got the dud European first batch if your theory is correct.....
 
RavingBonkers
I've just purchased a T300RS and am experiencing the same "symptoms" as above, after spending 4 days with the wheel, I'm not getting on very well. (my old wheel was a Logitech Driving Force Ex and I got on really well with that),

Have other people struggled to get used to these new modern wheels, or have you all taken to it like a duck to water ?
Click to expand...
You are moving from a wheel which has mostly just basic rumble+centering effects and very limited degrees of rotation, so a period of adjustment is logical.

In GT6 I'd suggest setting the wheel to FFB Max Torque 2-4 (enough so that FFB feels crisp and not squishy for the car you are in, hard to be more explicit about this but you will feel what I mean) and FFB Sensitivity 1, and starting off driving slower cars. Get used to actually turning the wheel 90 degrees or more for slower corners, get used to how fast you need to turn the wheel to correct a slide. But also start to appreciate the accuracy of the new wheel to aim the car carefully into each apex. And appreciate the feel of the road, rumble strips and car weight transfer.

Then try to increase the Max Torque and see how you like the response (but not so that it takes too much effort to turn the wheel), and start moving up to faster cars.

After a bit more practice the old Logitech will feel crude and lifeless, believe me!
 

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