Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 3,494 comments
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- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
EDIT - Delete Wrong Sub
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- 1,789
- The Motor City
- HAL20xx
- HAL20xx
Does anyone know if the pedal to base connector is a standard RJ25 connection?
I have the Playseat Challenge rig which is collapsable, but with the T3PA-Pro pedals being so massive and heavy, I have to disconnect the pedal mount portion from the rig to move it around. The problem is cable management. I'd like to add an RJ25 adapter at the base so I can disconnect that section only and keep the wires connected to the base.
I have the Playseat Challenge rig which is collapsable, but with the T3PA-Pro pedals being so massive and heavy, I have to disconnect the pedal mount portion from the rig to move it around. The problem is cable management. I'd like to add an RJ25 adapter at the base so I can disconnect that section only and keep the wires connected to the base.
- 61
- United States
- Sonic_X49
So I have a problem with my T300. The force feedback still works but the buttons on the rim like X O ect ect don't work but when I looked at the computer screen with the wheel plugged in the L3 and R3 buttons on the wheel base itself still lit up as working. Could there be a issue with the rim plug or base plug because it's hard when I can't shift or go through menu screens. Thanks to anyone with help and happy racing.
If anyone is having deadzone issues with the stock T300RS pedals... read on
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility, and i don't recommend this to anyone unless you have some technical skills.
i was able to get rid of the deadzone (mostly in brake) almost completely, clearly by mistake. with no mods at all.
At least for Pcars on the PS4. didn't try GT6 yet.
While trying to retrofit some padding where the pedal rests (to shorten brake paddle travel) and eliminate a few millimeters, i took the pedal case apart.
While connected to my PC with the Thrustmaster control panel software on , and the wheel connected and turned on, i fiddled with the potentiometers for both, accelerator and brake.
As i thought they had to be in a specific spot, i wasted about 2 frustrating hours trying to get them accurate with the software.
Well... they dont have to be!
Try set them as accurate as possible (hard task with the case not screwed).
But most importantly, turn them both to locking position first and then set each one so that the gears on them are engaging the pedals gears, from start to end, going clockwise.
Regardless of what the software will tell you, (they will look completely not tuned) turn off the wheel.
Connect everything back and plug in PS4 while its off. than turn wheel on. (dont forget PS4 mode on wheel), and than turn PS4 on.
Start Pcars and calibrate everything , specifically paddles.
push both paddles very slow until they reach 100%.
Test it with a car you know.
I got almost zero deadzone on my brake paddle which was driving me nuts. i'll wait on that T3PA purchase now (not in stock where i live).
Some rubber padding at the back of the paddle for some progression...perfect!
TIP: Try different sensitivity settings for the paddles in Pcars wheel setting.
Good luck!!
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility, and i don't recommend this to anyone unless you have some technical skills.
i was able to get rid of the deadzone (mostly in brake) almost completely, clearly by mistake. with no mods at all.
At least for Pcars on the PS4. didn't try GT6 yet.
While trying to retrofit some padding where the pedal rests (to shorten brake paddle travel) and eliminate a few millimeters, i took the pedal case apart.
While connected to my PC with the Thrustmaster control panel software on , and the wheel connected and turned on, i fiddled with the potentiometers for both, accelerator and brake.
As i thought they had to be in a specific spot, i wasted about 2 frustrating hours trying to get them accurate with the software.
Well... they dont have to be!
Try set them as accurate as possible (hard task with the case not screwed).
But most importantly, turn them both to locking position first and then set each one so that the gears on them are engaging the pedals gears, from start to end, going clockwise.
Regardless of what the software will tell you, (they will look completely not tuned) turn off the wheel.
Connect everything back and plug in PS4 while its off. than turn wheel on. (dont forget PS4 mode on wheel), and than turn PS4 on.
Start Pcars and calibrate everything , specifically paddles.
push both paddles very slow until they reach 100%.
Test it with a car you know.
I got almost zero deadzone on my brake paddle which was driving me nuts. i'll wait on that T3PA purchase now (not in stock where i live).
Some rubber padding at the back of the paddle for some progression...perfect!
TIP: Try different sensitivity settings for the paddles in Pcars wheel setting.
Good luck!!
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- 101
- SoCal
- JimBowL_
If playing Project CARS i would just stay with regular t300rs wheel.. cause the layout of buttons are much more convenient.. FYI you need more buttons lol
I wish a read this earlier! I bought a t300 a week ago with a big deadzone in the throttle.
Last night i decided id had enough and took the pedals apart to adjust the sensors and got it absoloutely perfect after about half hour fidling.
i had no deadzone in the brake, but in my throttle i aligned it to engage from the 4th tooth on the sensor.
I actually read this after id done mine but i can confirm it certainly works. However i would strongly advise to be very careful of the wires in the pedals as they have zero slack. I actually managed to pull a wire off of the brake without even realising so i need to resolder that at some point. For the moment i have just wrapped it round so it works.
Using the wheel feels amazing now!
- 78
- killer_ramsay
Anyone elses t300 over heating after only an hours plat and loses all resistance but can still feel the bumps im exchanging it when Amazon get them back in stock as i no theres a prob as i race with friends with the t300 and never happens to theres
- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
does the fan come on? Have you tried reflashing latest firmware, just in case it helps?
- 78
- killer_ramsay
The fans on all the time and has latest firmware added my second wheel after the first 1 developed a fault and ive noticed the right side of base where motor is gets a lot hotter than the first 1 did
- 22
- Louisiana
- IWannaB_SPruett
Got my T300RS last week. Within half an hour the D-pad "right" button stopped working properly. I have to set my finger in the center of the pad and kind of rock my finger over to the inside of the right button to get it to work. No response when I push the outer edge of the button. Occasionally I have the same problem with the "down" button. Sending it back to Amazon. Kudos to them for their great return policy.
Guess I'll stick with my Nixim modded G27 for now...
Guess I'll stick with my Nixim modded G27 for now...
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
It is sort of.. the clip is shifted off to one side. - I was looking at making a connector so I could use the open spots normally used for a clutch to wire in a hand brake. I have not found exact replacements yet.
Edit - offset - like this http://www.te.com/usa-en/plp/amp-rj25-connectors-amp-latch/Zn60Y30mJX25e4.html
again - I have not bought any to test for sure.
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- 393
- Bulgaria
- drandiiski
Is it just me or they went overboard with the branding? There are total of six “logos” on that wheel/pedal set. Freaking six! And the one that really stands out is the second one of the front, that’s written in white not engraved into the plastic like the others. It’s like someone realized way too late, that on photos the engraved ones will not stand out. Thanks god that the one in the center is the PS logo, not an ugly T or something.
I have read from thrustmaster that this is normal. But how quick that happens depends on how strong you have your force feedback.
- 78
- killer_ramsay
Only have my ffb at 85 when game first came out used it all day no problem then last few days started happening after a few hours now it does it within the hour so defo something wrong with the motor
- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
- 9,622
- Portland, OR
- Jump_Ace
- JUMPxACE
I'm not sure why but my PS4 has trouble powering my CPX adapter to use my CSR Elites with the T300. I never had ANY issues with GT6 on the PS3. I had to buy one of these to get power and now I can charge both of my DS4s too. I did still have trouble getting it to work initially but I think I have it plugged into the right ports now.
I can't rule out that it isn't PCars causing it because my L2 button won't work in-game when my CPX adapter doesn't have enough juice. However when that happens, if I bounce to the PS4 XMB the L2 button works just fine. I'm gonna make a post at the PCars forum, but wanted to write a snippet here in case other CPX users have had issues too.
Jerome
I can't rule out that it isn't PCars causing it because my L2 button won't work in-game when my CPX adapter doesn't have enough juice. However when that happens, if I bounce to the PS4 XMB the L2 button works just fine. I'm gonna make a post at the PCars forum, but wanted to write a snippet here in case other CPX users have had issues too.
Jerome
- 394
- United Kingdom
- doomstorm16
Ive finally settled on the gte, but does anyone know if you can adjust the rotation angle like on the rs? if you cant, how much is the default?
- 1,315
- Vancouver, BC
- Awong124
The GTE base is the same as the RS base, so you adjust it the same way. Only the detachable wheel and the color of the accents on the pedals are different.
- 394
- United Kingdom
- doomstorm16
- 2,232
- Lincolnshire
- PleaseD1e
Have you already purchased a wheel?Cheers
Logitech aren't written off entirely.......
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/sh...ly-Mad-Studios&p=924065&viewfull=1#post924065
........I want to play PCars on the PS4 too, but I'm waiting it out. At the end of the day, PCars is quite buggy at the moment, so waiting isn't too much of an issue really and if that means I can get my G27 working on the PS4 then I'll be a very happy chap.
#TryingToBePatient
- 393
- Bulgaria
- drandiiski
Can anyone point me to a document that explains how to use the mode button and make settings on the wheel itself, like rotation and so on? Can’t seem to find it on Thrustmasters’ site.
Its in the manual/help page
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00155.pdf
D-Pad Right + MODE button to increase the angle of rotation by one step
D-Pad Left + MODE button to decrease the angle of rotation by one step
270° LED Flashes 1 time
360° LED Flashes 2 times
540° LED Flashes 3 times
900° LED Flashes 4 times
1080° LED Flashes 5 times
- 393
- Bulgaria
- drandiiski
Thank you! Missed this file somehow…
Hello guys, I need some help here, please! I live in Brazil, and the options for buying a t300 round here are really scarce and extremely expensive. I ended up ordering one from Amazon.uk, which had the best price. However, in the UK they use 220 or 230V for their plugs, while in Brazil (at least where I live) we use 110 or 120V plugs. Therefore, I would need to use an adapter to change the voltage of the wheel. The thing is, for me to buy the correct adapter I need to know the power of the wheel in watts. I cannot find this information anywhere on the web, but I'm almost sure that it can be found on the power supply cable. As I haven't received mine yet, is it possible for any of you to take a look at it and send me this info!? Sorry if I didn't make myself so clear, as English is not my native language. Thanks a lot guys!
