Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 3,494 comments
- 561,975 views
- 360
- jakarta
- Y_bear_
Anyone know what extra cable is this?
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I think that is for the static paddle shifters like the T500 has - I guess you can put them on the T300
- 122
- xXHeroStar1988Xx
Oh wow someone mention CPX and I haven't got for almost year D:
- 1
- United States
I have a TX wheel which I suppose is pretty similar to the T300RS. I'm loving the wheel so far but my wheel ffb weakens with extended play. This is about 25-30mins of fully going at it. I have about 60% ffb strength set which feels just right for me. Anyone tried changing the fan for more cooling performance? I want to change mine but it's hard to get to the fan connector without taking the whole thing apart.
- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
Just got this today, some help required gents, I played a bit of Driveclub and the wheel worked fine, now I tried some GT6 (set the mode to PS3 but still the left circle icon is one turning red), and the wheel jerks a lot on the straights and seems to really resist when I turn.
What do I do, note I haven't downloaded anything.
What do I do, note I haven't downloaded anything.
- 3,875
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Turn the wheel down to FFB Torque = 3 and FFB Sensitivity = 1
- 6,868
- United Kingdom
I used 5 for torque and sensitivity 10 when I played GT6 with it. Lower torque like 4 will makes it easier to turn. You should get used to it after a while, different FFB and a bit more of a work out compared to Logitech wheels. The red circle is for pedal mode indication IIRC.
- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
- 6,868
- United Kingdom
I've gone back to G27 for now and hoping PD release a better bundle and revision before getting another one but if you went back to G25 now, you probably think the same as me in that the Logitech wheel will feel like it is broken.That helped a lot, thanks guys, and OMG this is miles better than my old G25
- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
It's the smoothness that is so welcoming, don't mind the pedals but I do miss the shifter, and thank god the flappy pedals turn with the wheel.
- 6,868
- United Kingdom
If you went back to G25 after using T300RS, you will probably notice a big difference in strength. It will feel very weak for the first few laps and like it is broken if you get used to the T300RS. I found also handling oversteer with the T300 is easier than G27.
- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
This +1000, a lot more realistic in that aspect.
How to properly calibrate Thrustmaster T300RS and T500RS:
http://gameidealist.com/news/thrust...ing-ps4-and-xbox-one-wheels-for-project-cars/
http://gameidealist.com/news/thrust...ing-ps4-and-xbox-one-wheels-for-project-cars/
- 3,445
- Gdynia
- MroczMR
Hi.
This is probably my first post here. I couldn't find solution to my problem in google, and I hope somebody will help me here.
I have problem with my Thrustmaster T300RS wheel. While playing ProjectCars or DriveClub on PS4 system, the wheel suddenly is starting to behave like there is no Force Feedback, it goes very light and barely reacts to vibrations etc. After that if I restart the console or unplug and plug racing wheel it can not auto calibrate correctly. It goes slightly left and very fast to the right. Exactly like on this film:
I have already found solution with "calibrating motors" using PC. There is special software witch calibrates electric motors in wheel. And it actually helps with auto calibration. But. When I start playing the game, situation is repeating. Again I loose force feedback, wheel starting to work wrong and when I reset everything Wheel cannot AutoCalibrate and I need to repeat all process of calibrating motors.
Somebody know any solution to this problem?
PS. Firmware was updated to V24
PS2. Problem started when I set Force Feedback Strength in Project Cars to 100. I will check later if lowering to default 75 would help. However same problem is happening in DriveClub and i didin't change FF strength there...
This is probably my first post here. I couldn't find solution to my problem in google, and I hope somebody will help me here.
I have problem with my Thrustmaster T300RS wheel. While playing ProjectCars or DriveClub on PS4 system, the wheel suddenly is starting to behave like there is no Force Feedback, it goes very light and barely reacts to vibrations etc. After that if I restart the console or unplug and plug racing wheel it can not auto calibrate correctly. It goes slightly left and very fast to the right. Exactly like on this film:
I have already found solution with "calibrating motors" using PC. There is special software witch calibrates electric motors in wheel. And it actually helps with auto calibration. But. When I start playing the game, situation is repeating. Again I loose force feedback, wheel starting to work wrong and when I reset everything Wheel cannot AutoCalibrate and I need to repeat all process of calibrating motors.
Somebody know any solution to this problem?
PS. Firmware was updated to V24
PS2. Problem started when I set Force Feedback Strength in Project Cars to 100. I will check later if lowering to default 75 would help. However same problem is happening in DriveClub and i didin't change FF strength there...
- 200
- JimmyLoops
I've been an owner of the T500rs for 5 years, pretty much since launch. It saddens me to hear this is happening to you because I have gone through this delema, except I was naive, thinking it was just the wheel smoothing out once up to temp. shows you what an optimist I am lol. I also had the chance to try out my upstairs neighbors TX wheel, and I liked the smoother feedback, so no need to regret or worry. There is a work around to the heating issue.
There are usb powered computer fans available online, and they really do help keep the temps down. I confirmed this by putting a small fan on high, right next to my t500rs, a wheel which is much more notorious for heat fade, notably among the older v1 models / gt5 boxed versions.
My advice to you is to regulate temps on your wheel in any way possible. Here's a quick check off list. Reasons for each are pretty self explanatory...
*Put a high speed fan right next to your wheel, whether it be a usb powered fan to sit atop the unit, or a small electric fan alongside. keep giving it air, more more more
*Get that room of yours air conditioned as much as possible. cold environments are a win win for electronics like an electric motor.
*purchase a small thermometer if you worry about the temps, and do some research about what temps it tends to begin fading.
The small fan solution is all i do at the moment, besides blast my air conditioner when I'm playing long sessions. Together, this combo kept the TX wheel I tried out running at 100% strenth while I drove the crap outa the Lotus 49 in iRacing, and it only got medium / warm for about an hour before any noticeable fade. Sure, its not perfect, but take breaks every 20-30 minutes. if you run at 60% strength, you may have even longer sessions without any fade. Air conditioners are great. just got one for the livingroom to keep all this stuff even cooler.
I currently have a T300rs on order because I was so impressed with the force feedback of the TX wheel. The smaller and lighter the wheel is, the stronger the ffb feels. this is why the rims on the TX and T300 are smaller than the t500, and why the force feedback feels so damn strong. My t500 can crank out stonger forces than both of those...for about 15 minutes before the huge amount of fade kicks in, and then it becomes weaker than both. I'll be keeping this new T300 cool as possible all the time.
Last edited:
- 229
- Hong Kong
- LotusTeam
Hey guys have u ever heard of a T300 wheel FFB will automatically fade during if the game is too strong on FFB setting or your movement is too strong? My experience is that when I adjusted the PCARS FFB = Max., the wheel becomes lighter after several strong movement at corners (I think about half hour), then I just leave it for couples of minutes, the correct FFB strength come back...I heard somebody say it's the motor itself overheat and it just cuts FFB strength for protection, but the case was on Fanatec Club sport wheel, don't know if T300 has this issue, any firmware update can fix this??
- 200
- JimmyLoops
Run your firmware update again, tripple check the driver version. Unscrew the wheel, inspect. dust it out with air. try holding the mode button to make the light green / red, then revert. Anything to cycle the electronics. also, clear out anything else running on your ps4. hulu, netflix, etc. these are just little suggestions. the "thing" that fixed my glitchy calibration on my t500 was to rerun the firmware update, a solution that even awoke the wheel at one point in time when I thought it had died completely
- 200
- JimmyLoops
Project cars, from what I have experienced so far on the pc version (identical feedback though), could easily introduce fade and heating issues if done for long sessions. Here's why. The developers went WAY too crazy with force feedback customization options. If you do ANYTHING at all to those settings, start by reducing the overall feedback strength. as is, the feedback just causes something called "clipping." this is when there are so many force effects and signals being sent to your wheel, all you feel is max force most of the time, with an occational twitch. What you want, in an ideal force feedback feel, it to have the wheel feel dynamic, never at full during normal driving, leaving "headroom" for when things get crazy and intense. I absolutely hate project cars force feedback, because its just too much right from the get go, with no dynamic sensations. I'll see if I can dig up a link for you guys to tweek it a bit and get it feeling good. you run that game at 100% ffb, and I guarantee you're fading your wheel quick. Keep it cool. check my other post here.
- 229
- Hong Kong
- LotusTeam
Thanks for the comment bro! However, I'm on PS4 version not PC and don't know if I'm able to tweek anything at all! Anyway...waiting for your comment or any other workaround on T300
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
I am on the ps4 with the T300 and get wonderful FFB using jack spade's classic settings. The only thing I change from his settings is I drop the master scale and sop scale one tick .. I have driven for over 30mins strait in the BMW m1 pro car on laguna seca and had no fading.
And yes... the default FFB settings for project cars is terrible.. bugs are bugs, but the choice they put in for default FFB makes me scratch my head.
- 229
- Hong Kong
- LotusTeam
Do u mean "base on Jack's sop & master scale" u further dropped them by 1 tick? And 1 tick is already enough? Are u using FFB=100 and TF=100?
I think u have to drive very "violently" for about 10 mins before the motor starts to fade...
Anyway I will try to lower those tomorrow when I have time...thanks bro!
