Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
I'm going through my third RMA procedure now for my T300 in 9 months:
Bought the wheel end of December 2014
Mid-February it broke (endless calibration) and had to RMA it.
Received the wheel back in April in still broken condition, so they started a second RMA.
End of May I finally received a new wheel base.
End of July the replacement base started to act funny (random calibration loss during races) so contacted TM support again about a month ago.
Yesterday they contacted me to tell me they'll send another wheel base my way.

Hopefully this time it's a good one. As long as it works it's a superb wheel. Too bad the build quality is so freaking bad...
 
Fryto
I'm going through my third RMA procedure now for my T300 in 9 months:
Bought the wheel end of December 2014
Mid-February it broke (endless calibration) and had to RMA it.
Received the wheel back in April in still broken condition, so they started a second RMA.
End of May I finally received a new wheel base.
End of July the replacement base started to act funny (random calibration loss during races) so contacted TM support again about a month ago.
Yesterday they contacted me to tell me they'll send another wheel base my way.

Hopefully this time it's a good one. As long as it works it's a superb wheel. Too bad the build quality is so freaking bad...
Click to expand...
It will be interesting to see if your replacement feels any different.
 
Just noticed on Amazon, T300rs is on sale for $359.42. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7D02/?tag=gtplanet-20

I have a question about the quick release on this wheel, is it necessary to tighten the locking screw in? Reason I ask is, I have a Fanatec CSL seat. For me it is a pain to get in and out of it, it would be easier to remove the rim to get in and out of it. Also I was playing with the settings for the force feedback, I usually have it on 4/4 for sensitivity and torque. But I wanted to see how turning it up to 10 would feel, I liked how the wheel felt but I noticed that the wheel has a buzzing sound/ feel while holding a turn. Is this normal?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 43
SilverSE102
I liked how the wheel felt but I noticed that the wheel has a buzzing sound/ feel while holding a turn. Is this normal?
Click to expand...
From testing on the PC, that buzzing sound is when you are "clipping" the wheel. Basically if you feel that very briefly during heavy cornering then turning down FFB slightly is right. If you feel it on every corner then you need to turn the settings way down, because you are just getting centering force and all other FFB cues are gone since the wheel is being kept at 100% force by the cornering and the little cues (like rumble strips or car weight changes) can't be felt.

For more information, google the video by Empty Box about clipping and you will get a detailed expanation on what the problems are.
 
skazz
From testing on the PC, that buzzing sound is when you are "clipping" the wheel. Basically if you feel that very briefly during heavy cornering then turning down FFB slightly is right. If you feel it on every corner then you need to turn the settings way down, because you are just getting centering force and all other FFB cues are gone since the wheel is being kept at 100% force by the cornering and the little cues (like rumble strips or car weight changes) can't be felt.

For more information, google the video by Empty Box about clipping and you will get a detailed expanation on what the problems are.
Click to expand...
I currently play gt6 with it, eventually I am going to make the jump to ps4. When it was at 10 it would buzz going around the track in the rain masters seasonal event, but I could still feel the rumble strips and weight transfer along with the heavy steering feel. But I will keep the settings around 4-6 now. I was watching the video that you suggested, I understand what it is now. Thanks for your help. 👍
 
SilverSE102
Just noticed on Amazon, T300rs is on sale for $359.42. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7D02/?tag=gtplanet-20

I have a question about the quick release on this wheel, is it necessary to tighten the locking screw in? Reason I ask is, I have a Fanatec CSL seat. For me it is a pain to get in and out of it, it would be easier to remove the rim to get in and out of it. Also I was playing with the settings for the force feedback, I usually have it on 4/4 for sensitivity and torque. But I wanted to see how turning it up to 10 would feel, I liked how the wheel felt but I noticed that the wheel has a buzzing sound/ feel while holding a turn. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

You don't have to tighten the screw if you plan on removing and installing it a lot. But I wouldn't recommend doing that, because it's probably just going to wear out the contacts and cause it to fail if you do it very often. Thrustmaster products have enough reliability issues as it is.

Mine does the buzzing thing too, so I would assume it's normal. Not particularly pleasant, but normal.
 
Awong124
You don't have to tighten the screw if you plan on removing and installing it a lot. But I wouldn't recommend doing that, because it's probably just going to wear out the contacts and cause it to fail if you do it very often. Thrustmaster products have enough reliability issues as it is.

Mine does the buzzing thing too, so I would assume it's normal. Not particularly pleasant, but normal.
Click to expand...
Ok, cool. I'll keep the rim attached and just put up with it until I can afford a new seat setup then. What settings do you have your wheel on? I have mine on 4-5 and I have no buzzing at all, the only thing I hear from mine is the cooling fan when it turns on.
 
SilverSE102
Ok, cool. I'll keep the rim attached and just put up with it until I can afford a new seat setup then. What settings do you have your wheel on? I have mine on 4-5 and I have no buzzing at all, the only thing I hear from mine is the cooling fan when it turns on.
Click to expand...

I don't really play GT6 anymore. I think I've only played it once with this wheel, and I don't remember what settings I used.
 
So after 3 months after my wheel getting back at Thrustmaster, they wanted me $500 for shipping, I freaking fly over there...and they send me a TX (458) wheel base. I can't even...
 
BrunoGF
So after 3 months after my wheel getting back at Thrustmaster, they wanted me $500 for shipping, I freaking fly over there...and they send me a TX (458) wheel base. I can't even...
Click to expand...
$500?! Why such a large amount for shipping? Is that for a unit still under warranty, or past already? Regardless though, sounds absurd.
 
sherpa25
$500?! Why such a large amount for shipping? Is that for a unit still under warranty, or past already? Regardless though, sounds absurd.
Click to expand...

Story so far:

  • Bought the wheel on Amazon while I was in US, moved to Brazil a month later. After a few weeks, the wheel started acting weird until it would endlessly (try to) calibrate. After trying to get in touch with Thrustmaster CS for months, I finally get them to accept to replace/repair the wheel;
  • Since I bought it on the US, they wouldn't pay to ship it to their Canadian station (which handle repairs). So I paid to ship it there (it was something like $150 to ship it there through DHL with customs handling and insurance), which seemed fair to me on this situation;
  • TM assumes my wheelbase is beyound repair and they would ship a new one to me. But they would only ship from Canada to US for free, otherwise I'd have to pay for it. After asking for a shipping quote, I'm sent values between $400-$500. Since airline tickets from Brazil-US are usually $400, I figure it's better to go get it and enjoy this short 5 days trip;
  • Customs in my country are really hard to deal with, so I'm instructed by a customs federal agent to print the e-mails regarding the whole situation, have the RM number in hands and do not open the box they sent me. Otherwise I'd have to pay 60% of the value of a new wheel set as customs tax;
  • I get the box with the Thrustmaster labels and come back to my country;
  • Last night when I setup everything to test it...they have sent me a TX wheel base, for Xbox. Nice touch TM, nice touch.
 
BrunoGF
Story so far:

  • Bought the wheel on Amazon while I was in US, moved to Brazil a month later. After a few weeks, the wheel started acting weird until it would endlessly (try to) calibrate. After trying to get in touch with Thrustmaster CS for months, I finally get them to accept to replace/repair the wheel;
  • Since I bought it on the US, they wouldn't pay to ship it to their Canadian station (which handle repairs). So I paid to ship it there (it was something like $150 to ship it there through DHL with customs handling and insurance), which seemed fair to me on this situation;
  • TM assumes my wheelbase is beyound repair and they would ship a new one to me. But they would only ship from Canada to US for free, otherwise I'd have to pay for it. After asking for a shipping quote, I'm sent values between $400-$500. Since airline tickets from Brazil-US are usually $400, I figure it's better to go get it and enjoy this short 5 days trip;
  • Customs in my country are really hard to deal with, so I'm instructed by a customs federal agent to print the e-mails regarding the whole situation, have the RM number in hands and do not open the box they sent me. Otherwise I'd have to pay 60% of the value of a new wheel set as customs tax;
  • I get the box with the Thrustmaster labels and come back to my country;
  • Last night when I setup everything to test it...they have sent me a TX wheel base, for Xbox. Nice touch TM, nice touch.
Click to expand...
Oh brother I fell your pain
 
At least you are now in a position to pressure TM to fix their mistake themselves, and send you the correct wheel free of charge while not expecting you to incur more costs and send the TX back. You could sell on the TX and cover much of the costs?
 
BrunoGF
Story so far:

  • Bought the wheel on Amazon while I was in US, moved to Brazil a month later. After a few weeks, the wheel started acting weird until it would endlessly (try to) calibrate. After trying to get in touch with Thrustmaster CS for months, I finally get them to accept to replace/repair the wheel;
  • Since I bought it on the US, they wouldn't pay to ship it to their Canadian station (which handle repairs). So I paid to ship it there (it was something like $150 to ship it there through DHL with customs handling and insurance), which seemed fair to me on this situation;
  • TM assumes my wheelbase is beyound repair and they would ship a new one to me. But they would only ship from Canada to US for free, otherwise I'd have to pay for it. After asking for a shipping quote, I'm sent values between $400-$500. Since airline tickets from Brazil-US are usually $400, I figure it's better to go get it and enjoy this short 5 days trip;
  • Customs in my country are really hard to deal with, so I'm instructed by a customs federal agent to print the e-mails regarding the whole situation, have the RM number in hands and do not open the box they sent me. Otherwise I'd have to pay 60% of the value of a new wheel set as customs tax;
  • I get the box with the Thrustmaster labels and come back to my country;
  • Last night when I setup everything to test it...they have sent me a TX wheel base, for Xbox. Nice touch TM, nice touch.
Click to expand...
Dang, so it's like you spent for an equivalent of 2.5x TM wheels. That's why I've had to put off my purchase (too bad for me) as I'm from Asia, and even with my brother in the US, any issues would be a pain. Wish there was support closer.
 
Unreal. So after much deliberation I decided to try my luck again with the T300 after returning two late last year due to both having a 'clunking/knocking' sound that was coming from the steering mech. I decided to get a refund and wait for a 2nd or 3rd generation batch hoping that the bad stock had well and truly gone.

The new one I have purchased is much better however the knock is still there. It's particularly noticeable driving the karts in PCars - not so bad driving road/race cars. Is this normal? Does anyone get this every now and then?

I am fussy and like to have equipment that works as it should but I'm starting to wonder if this is just how the T300's are? Or am I super unlucky?

Knock noises aside, the wheel is fantastic, super smooth and quiet.
 

Latest Posts

Back