Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[Spitfire77]

Try setting the FFB/Sensitivity to 4/4 or 3/3 .. when the sensitivity is too high it wobbles back and forth a lot. I think last time I played and had Strength at 4 and sensitivity at 3.. or strength at 5 and sensitivity at 4.. something in that range.

 

[TripleApex]

Try setting the FFB/Sensitivity to 4/4 or 3/3 .. when the sensitivity is too high it wobbles back and forth a lot. I think last time I played and had Strength at 4 and sensitivity at 3.. or strength at 5 and sensitivity at 4.. something in that range.

I agree with you that the wheel moves back-and-forth quite a bit when the force feedback is too high, but I was actually speaking about my car and not the wheel. While holding the wheel straight and going down a straight away and I can actually feel the car moving side to side. The movement can even be seen in the replay. Honestly it's very little movement but it's enough to cause me mistakes.

 

[Spitfire77]

I agree with you that the wheel moves back-and-forth quite a bit when the force feedback is too high, but I was actually speaking about my car and not the wheel. While holding the wheel straight and going down a straight away and I can actually feel the car moving side to side. The movement can even be seen in the replay. Honestly it's very little movement but it's enough to cause me mistakes.

Oh.. I see. No idea then never experienced that with GT6 with my T300.

 

[TripleApex]

Oh.. I see. No idea then never experienced that with GT6 with my T300.

Thanks for your help anyway.

 

[skazz]

From my experience, as long as you set FFB Sensitivity within GT6 to 1 then a Thrustmaster wheel won't oscillate on straights. But we've been over that already.

I have compared and contrasted my T500 and T300 in GT6, and the summary is that the T500 feels heavier and slightly more damped. The T300 is lighter, easier to turn, and you feel small bumps in the road clearer, although I don't have the feeling that I actually get different information from one wheel or the other, just a slightly different sensation.

I recall 1 car in GT5 which did exactly what you are talking about: The Mitsubishi Evo X. It wouldn't drive straight and would weave if you drove it above a certain speed. Something strange in the simulation of the differential I guess. Are you getting this with all cars or just with some?

 

[TripleApex]

From my experience, as long as you set FFB Sensitivity within GT6 to 1 then a Thrustmaster wheel won't oscillate on straights. But we've been over that already.

I have compared and contrasted my T500 and T300 in GT6, and the summary is that the T500 feels heavier and slightly more damped. The T300 is lighter, easier to turn, and you feel small bumps in the road clearer, although I don't have the feeling that I actually get different information from one wheel or the other, just a slightly different sensation.

I recall 1 car in GT5 which did exactly what you are talking about: The Mitsubishi Evo X. It wouldn't drive straight and would weave if you drove it above a certain speed. Something strange in the simulation of the differential I guess. Are you getting this with all cars or just with some?[/QUOTE it's happening with everything I drive.

 

[skazz]

I'd be inclined to wipe and reinstall GT6, try with controller, all kinds of stuff to isolate. It sounds bizarre that this is the wheel itself.

 

[crowhop]

So, this just happened. Got it for $200 in "Used - Acceptable" condition. Since the pedals are useless (to me) and the Rim is only mildly useful (considering the price, getting a new Rim or two is very affordable), what issues should I be looking for in the function and use of the Base? How long will it take me to figure out if the Base has some kind of failure?

Thanks in advance.

Update:

Well, the wheel arrived and was more or less DOA. Plugged it into the USB then plugged it into the wall outlet. Wheel booted up and went left to full lock, Windows recognized the device and then...nothing. Dead.
Attempted all of the proper troubleshooting methods to no avail.

Knowing I still have the RMA to the Seller in my back pocket, I contacted Thrustmaster. And, long story short, they will be processing the RMA for me. I do not have all of the RMA details yet, but I am pleased with the possibility of getting a new or repaired one for such a low price. Should know more tomorrow.

 

[diesel97]

Update:

Well, the wheel arrived and was more or less DOA. Plugged it into the USB then plugged it into the wall outlet. Wheel booted up and went left to full lock, Windows recognized the device and then...nothing. Dead.
Attempted all of the proper troubleshooting methods to no avail.

Knowing I still have the RMA to the Seller in my back pocket, I contacted Thrustmaster. And, long story short, they will be processing the RMA for me. I do not have all of the RMA details yet, but I am pleased with the possibility of getting a new or repaired one for such a low price. Should know more tomorrow.

That sucks i'm surprised they didn't give you DL to reboot the firmware of the wheel, hope it all works out

 

[JoeH187]

My TS300 has been great on the PS4. Now that the TX servo base is available it seems like I'll have to try out Forza. Just need to pick up the Xbone Bundle once it hits the streets.

 

[crowhop]

That sucks i'm surprised they didn't give you DL to reboot the firmware of the wheel, hope it all works out

It was actually very easy. Didn't have to do any over-the-phone trouble shooting. No video. Nothing. Simply told them all I'd tried to do to get it working (I was thorough in my own troubleshooting and conveyed that to them thoroughly). Supplied a pic of the Serial Number and copy of the Invoice and that was it.
Other than the very slight difficulty in understanding the techs whose first language isn't English, I'd rate my experience with TM as a 5 star, to this point.
We'll see.

 

[Awong124]

Update:

Well, the wheel arrived and was more or less DOA. Plugged it into the USB then plugged it into the wall outlet. Wheel booted up and went left to full lock, Windows recognized the device and then...nothing. Dead.
Attempted all of the proper troubleshooting methods to no avail.

Knowing I still have the RMA to the Seller in my back pocket, I contacted Thrustmaster. And, long story short, they will be processing the RMA for me. I do not have all of the RMA details yet, but I am pleased with the possibility of getting a new or repaired one for such a low price. Should know more tomorrow.

It's possible that it just has corrupted firmware. The wheel started doing something then won't do anything after sounds like the problem I had when I first got mine. I'd give this a try:

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T300RS/T300RS_Bootloader_V24_Dec2014.pdf

 

[crowhop]

It's possible that it just has corrupted firmware. The wheel started doing something then won't do anything after sounds like the problem I had when I first got mine. I'd give this a try:

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T300RS/T300RS_Bootloader_V24_Dec2014.pdf

Tried it. Several times. Nothing.

 

[novcze]

so another T300RS story ... I've come across new T300RS with terrible buzz from transformer. T300RS is using classic transformer with EI core and the sound is probably coming from loose lamination.

Thrustmaster made slight modification to power supply, on newer models (this one made in Jun.) there are holes in plastic cover, so transformer core can dissipate heat outside of power supply. On older models, whole power supply (transformer+bridge rectifier+filter capacitor) is encapsulated in plastic cover, which is recipe for problems when capacitor dry out.

 

[DaGiBUS]

Getting a T300 soon, recommended settings for GT6?

 

[Spitfire77]

Getting a T300 soon, recommended settings for GT6?

Start with FFB strength 3 and sensitivity 3 .. then raise strength to find the strength you want then raise sensitivity until you get bad oscillation (wobble back and forth) while going down the straights then lower it back one.

I think I last ended up with str 4 and sensitivity 3

 

[DaGiBUS]

Start with FFB strength 3 and sensitivity 3 .. then raise strength to find the strength you want then raise sensitivity until you get bad oscillation (wobble back and forth) while going down the straights then lower it back one.

I think I last ended up with str 4 and sensitivity 3

Thanks for the help

 

[skazz]

And finally Thrustmaster has put together a T300 set:
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/П...tion-thrustmaster-takes-pole-position-its-118

T300 base, 30cm alcantara rim and T3PA pedals for $470.

 

[adi518]

Finally, somebody over at TM used their brain.

 

[euclid58]

Has anyone here needed to "wake up" their T300 with the Boot Loader ???
If so, and especially if you were unsuccessful with it, I encourage you to reply to this post..
I have something VERY interesting about that which may solve your problem..

I'll try to be watching this, but might take a day to get back..

 

[insert coin]

And finally Thrustmaster has put together a T300 set:
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/Пресса/t300-ferrari-integral-racing-wheel-alcantara-edition-thrustmaster-takes-pole-position-its-118

T300 base, 30cm alcantara rim and T3PA pedals for $470.

But I want the set without the pedals (I'm a CSR Elite owner) ... Maybe they will sell just the T300 base soon.

 

[skazz]

But I want the set without the pedals (I'm a CSR Elite owner) ... Maybe they will sell just the T300 base soon.

Buy this set and sell the pedals "as new" for $80 or so?

The base by itself lists as $280 and the alcantara rim at $180 or so, which means $460 value not including the pedals

 

[heingericke]

I have the T300 GTE wheel with pedals and recently bought the Ricmotech adapter so I may use my G27 pedals. I seriously doubt I'll ever use the original plastic pedals that came with my T300 but I'm concerned I'll need to hold on to them in case I need to claim warranty on the wheel. Will Thrustamster take accept a return of the wheel without the pedals? Doubt it.

 

[LeftyWright69]

My gas pedal is sacked out and won't return, the cheepo spring is broken and I have only had it about 6mo's. If I send it back I'll just end up w/ what I stated with and it too will break. My DFGT lasted 7 yrs without a problem and now that I broke the bank for this paper weight I don't know what to do. Gerrr.....

 

[euclid58]

My gas pedal is sacked out and won't return, the cheepo spring is broken and I have only had it about 6mo's. If I send it back I'll just end up w/ what I stated with and it too will break. My DFGT lasted 7 yrs without a problem and now that I broke the bank for this paper weight I don't know what to do. Gerrr.....

Mine failed and they sent me a new one.. You need to show them the receipt though..
You'll need to go through the process.. Register your account at Thrustmaster.. Register your product(s).
They will ask you to take a picture of what's wrong with it.. If you can capture and illustrate the failure with a still image, that's enough, but it has to be clear so they can easily see it.. You may need to take the pedal unit apart to show what is broken.. Maybe a picture of the pedal down without anything holding it down may be enough, I don't know..

They will replace it though, and it's really not that hard to take care of...

 

[LeftyWright69]

Mine failed and they sent me a new one.. You need to show them the receipt though..
You'll need to go through the process.. Register your account at Thrustmaster.. Register your product(s).
They will ask you to take a picture of what's wrong with it.. If you can capture and illustrate the failure with a still image, that's enough, but it has to be clear so they can easily see it.. You may need to take the pedal unit apart to show what is broken.. Maybe a picture of the pedal down without anything holding it down may be enough, I don't know..

They will replace it though, and it's really not that hard to take care of...

Thanks.... I registered and I found the sales receipt from Amazon. It's only been 8 mo's and everything I could find says that I'm good for 12mo's sooooo. Weeeee

After the warranty dies and they hand grenade again I'll probably throw down on those upside down hanging hydraulic pedals I saw. I think they are about 400 bucks (ouch)

 

[euclid58]

Thanks.... I registered and I found the sales receipt from Amazon. It's only been 8 mo's and everything I could find says that I'm good for 12mo's sooooo. Weeeee

After the warranty dies and they hand grenade again I'll probably throw down on those upside down hanging hydraulic pedals I saw. I think they are about 400 bucks (ouch)

Good, save that receipt to your documents and your good..👍
Be prepared to take some pics...

The new Club Sport V3 are the ticket, and compatible I believe.. I heard $300, so yeah, ouch..
Might be hard to get at first too...

I'd give TM's customer service good marks so far by my own experience...

 

[euclid58]

Actually, if you add the dampers that goes with those pedals, it is more like 400..
I forgot about that.. Didn't mean to sound condescending BTW.. need to watch how I say things sometimes.

Also.. The Pro pedals that Thrustmaster sells for this wheel are as solid as anything out there..
The whole thing, or most of it is constructed out of metal, and seriously doubt if they'd ever break.
The progression is excellent.. And only 150 for those... The package it ships in weighs 19kg..

 

[crowhop]

Update:

Well, the wheel arrived and was more or less DOA. Plugged it into the USB then plugged it into the wall outlet. Wheel booted up and went left to full lock, Windows recognized the device and then...nothing. Dead.
Attempted all of the proper troubleshooting methods to no avail.

Knowing I still have the RMA to the Seller in my back pocket, I contacted Thrustmaster. And, long story short, they will be processing the RMA for me. I do not have all of the RMA details yet, but I am pleased with the possibility of getting a new or repaired one for such a low price. Should know more tomorrow.

And another...

UPDATE:

Thrustmaster offered no help. They said since it was purchased as a Used item, they offer no Warranty. I was able to ship it back to the Seller. No harm, no foul and no money lost.

However, it has made me very leery of buying used. From what I got from TM, if it is a Used item OR not sold by an Authorized TM Retailer, their Warranty is not honored. I don't know if any of you have a different experience with the Warranty of Used TM products, but that was mine. I'll be buying New.

Now, I just wait for a sale.

 

[Awong124]

Has anyone here needed to "wake up" their T300 with the Boot Loader ???
If so, and especially if you were unsuccessful with it, I encourage you to reply to this post..
I have something VERY interesting about that which may solve your problem..

I'll try to be watching this, but might take a day to get back..

I had to do it when I first got the wheel. The boot loader didn't work at first, but I figured it out after an hour or so. For some reason the automatic search wasn't able to find the boot loader in my directory, and I had to select it manually.

And another...

UPDATE:

Thrustmaster offered no help. They said since it was purchased as a Used item, they offer no Warranty. I was able to ship it back to the Seller. No harm, no foul and no money lost.

However, it has made me very leery of buying used. From what I got from TM, if it is a Used item OR not sold by an Authorized TM Retailer, their Warranty is not honored. I don't know if any of you have a different experience with the Warranty of Used TM products, but that was mine. I'll be buying New.

Now, I just wait for a sale.

Yeah, they won't honor warranties for items bought on Ebay.