What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter Perfect Balance
- 6,673 comments
- 388,588 views
- 3,200
- Murcie LP710
Just picked SIC EM up from the audio specialist: all the bits went in without fuss and no mess! Sounds a lot better than what it did and has some much needed punch. The sub only just cleared the boot but hey, just clearing is better than not clearing at all.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Did they sting you much for the install? Any reason you didn't wanna brave it yourself?
- 3,200
- Murcie LP710
It was $360 for the full installation plus $290 for the sub as that was the only bit I hadn't bought yet.
I wouldn't know the first thing about installing a stereo so my dad's done it with my other cars with some help from me. However in the both of them there was always one bit that stuffed up and annoyed the absolute 🤬 out of me so I figured, this is my most prized car yet, I want to keep it all clean and tidy and completely functional, so I'd just get the professionals to do it. It was expensive, but in my opinion it was worth the cash; they did a really good job.
Besides, my dad didn't want to do it this time and I don't blame him.
I'll give her a good wash in the morning and take some happy snappies of the new kit plus, hell, I need some more photos of it!
I wouldn't know the first thing about installing a stereo so my dad's done it with my other cars with some help from me. However in the both of them there was always one bit that stuffed up and annoyed the absolute 🤬 out of me so I figured, this is my most prized car yet, I want to keep it all clean and tidy and completely functional, so I'd just get the professionals to do it. It was expensive, but in my opinion it was worth the cash; they did a really good job.
Besides, my dad didn't want to do it this time and I don't blame him.
I'll give her a good wash in the morning and take some happy snappies of the new kit plus, hell, I need some more photos of it!
- 3,569
- Connecticut
- SPhilli
- SPhilli911
Resprayed my fog light covers. They were in really bad shape (in fact the whole front bumper was in nasty shape, I've already replaced the lower bumper panels) and were chipping bad.
This is how I pulled them off the car after the decals were scrapped off. I'll take more pics when they dry.
I'll also soon be respraying a good portion of my truck lid. These cars have bad weather stripping between the spoiler and the trunk lid and rust tends to form. I'm going to catch it before it spreads.
This is how I pulled them off the car after the decals were scrapped off. I'll take more pics when they dry.
I'll also soon be respraying a good portion of my truck lid. These cars have bad weather stripping between the spoiler and the trunk lid and rust tends to form. I'm going to catch it before it spreads.
- 3,200
- Murcie LP710
Will you be replacing the decals or just leaving them bare? I'd be interested to know what the lamp covers look like bare on the car, never seen an STi like that haha.
- 3,569
- Connecticut
- SPhilli
- SPhilli911
I'll replace the decal as well (they're bare now). I do have pics of it bare when I bought the car though without decals.
This picture shows just how bad the front bumper was.
Actually they don't cover lights, just the area you can install the fogs. Honestly I'm not sure if the cover will still go on if the car has fogs.
- 331
- KUSHifornia
- MaliciousMD
- MaliciousMD
It's beginning to feel a lot like Christmas 
. GTX3582R: T4 Divided 1.06 A/R, 3" V-Band Outlet. Also going to pick up two S5 13B-T's "kegs" from a friend after the new year for nearly FREE.99. So a small street ported & dowel pinned engine will be getting putting together as well.
. GTX3582R: T4 Divided 1.06 A/R, 3" V-Band Outlet. Also going to pick up two S5 13B-T's "kegs" from a friend after the new year for nearly FREE.99. So a small street ported & dowel pinned engine will be getting putting together as well.
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Sounds like you're about to have a lot of fun! ^^
I got back and picked up my new toys, wasted no time lol. Plates on the car:
And my Haltech Engine Management arrived, with free T-Shirt
Also got my injectors but I didn't bother to take a pic of them, and my new turbo is nearly ready to pick up from getting its wastegate ported.
I got back and picked up my new toys, wasted no time lol. Plates on the car:
And my Haltech Engine Management arrived, with free T-Shirt
Also got my injectors but I didn't bother to take a pic of them, and my new turbo is nearly ready to pick up from getting its wastegate ported.
- 3,569
- Connecticut
- SPhilli
- SPhilli911
Love the plates. I almost got "04WRC" for mine.
- 3,200
- Murcie LP710
My turn for the custom plates! Just ordered these:
Slim front, standard rear. The actual plates will have a space between the words though; the ezyplates site doesn't render spaces in the previews.
Slim front, standard rear. The actual plates will have a space between the words though; the ezyplates site doesn't render spaces in the previews.
- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
Starting to piece together the exhaust for my H22 build, a 2.5" Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator came in the mail today with a matching flex pipe that'll be spliced into my future header.
Also got a replacement for my broken spark plug cover off eBay; after the new year I'm sending my valve cover off to a member of an Accord forum who's a painter. It'll be shaved (already is, but needs even moar), matte black, and the gears will be exposed.
Also got a replacement for my broken spark plug cover off eBay; after the new year I'm sending my valve cover off to a member of an Accord forum who's a painter. It'll be shaved (already is, but needs even moar), matte black, and the gears will be exposed.
- 34,949
- Indian Falls, NY
- slashfan7964
Paid $3k for 2 sets of tires, 9 tires in total
All Cooper's as well.
Bought five 33x12.5r16.5's for $435 a piece for summer use, then the four stock 235x85r16's for $315 a piece for winter use. Yes, I know, they are really expensive. I don't care though because by alternating them I'll get at least 6-7 years without needing new ones, if not longer.
All Cooper's as well.
Bought five 33x12.5r16.5's for $435 a piece for summer use, then the four stock 235x85r16's for $315 a piece for winter use. Yes, I know, they are really expensive. I don't care though because by alternating them I'll get at least 6-7 years without needing new ones, if not longer.
- 1,468
- Coventry
- aadil717
Discovered my rear tyres are almost completely bald so I went out to get them replaced (yup, got my monies worth out of them 
).
Haven't driven it for almost a month so I wasn't sure the car had less grip, or it was me. But I did notice that the braking force/distance in the rain was pretty bad. So I thought maybe it's not just me. It was the car...obviously.
Then spent hours phoning up various tyre places in Glasgow and the best price (fitted) I got was £130 per tyre.
This was mid range - the tyre that was previously on my car (Hankooks) retail for around £230 per tyre. Which is ridiculous and too much for me. 👎
I'm sure I could of got them cheaper if I waited, but I need my car - and need it also to be safe.
So I had to go ahead, anddd now I'm broke. At least all confidence in driving is now restored. 👍
Tyre size is 255/40r18 for anyone wondering (original wheels on car) and no it's not an M3, it's a Lexus IS220d Sport - and yes that means its diesel.
). Haven't driven it for almost a month so I wasn't sure the car had less grip, or it was me. But I did notice that the braking force/distance in the rain was pretty bad. So I thought maybe it's not just me. It was the car...obviously.
Then spent hours phoning up various tyre places in Glasgow and the best price (fitted) I got was £130 per tyre.
This was mid range - the tyre that was previously on my car (Hankooks) retail for around £230 per tyre. Which is ridiculous and too much for me. 👎
I'm sure I could of got them cheaper if I waited, but I need my car - and need it also to be safe.
So I had to go ahead, anddd now I'm broke.
At least all confidence in driving is now restored. 👍Tyre size is 255/40r18 for anyone wondering (original wheels on car) and no it's not an M3, it's a Lexus IS220d Sport - and yes that means its diesel.
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- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
Bought something today for the Accord I no longer own but will again:
1st-gen Honda Odyssey front knuckles and hubs. Converts me from 4 to 5x114.3 while still letting me use stock Accord axles. Ody brakes would have worked, but I'm upgrading to Spoon+Brembo+EBC parts. For the rear I'll only have to get 5th-gen Prelude hubs+bearings and Integra Type-R discs.
1st-gen Honda Odyssey front knuckles and hubs. Converts me from 4 to 5x114.3 while still letting me use stock Accord axles. Ody brakes would have worked, but I'm upgrading to Spoon+Brembo+EBC parts. For the rear I'll only have to get 5th-gen Prelude hubs+bearings and Integra Type-R discs.
- 4,213
- Puerto Rico
- motortrend
^Why do you no longer own the accord?
Today I checked tire pressures and filled the tires up, what an excruciating task!
Today I checked tire pressures and filled the tires up, what an excruciating task!
- 17,068
- United Kingdom
Ugh, I love the idea of working on cars, I just hate actually doing it.
I know (at least) one of the wheel speed sensors on the 320 is faulty, but I don't know which. Now I could have taken to a garage and got them to read the fault codes, but that would require money, something that's in short supply at the moment! In theory it's straight forward enough to test them, you just need the right tools.
A multi-meter I have... however, after jacking up the front of the car (not too difficult), removing the wheel, locating the wiring and pulling the connector apart, I discover that the two tiny little pins I need to get the probes across are set back about 20mm inside the plug.. the probes simply won't fit.. so after a little thought and about an hour of McGyver style soldering I've made a suitable rig from two cotton bud shafts, some thick speaker cable, some insulating tape and some thin telephone cable - turned out it worked a treat... so back out I went to the car.
Tested the front right wheel (put the probes across the terminals rotate the wheels and look for a fluctuating resistance).. checked okay.. so wheel back on... drop the car down, round to the front left, repeated the process and that one checked out okay too.
I'd have rather it was a front sensor, simply because it makes lifting the car easier. The problem with jacking the back is I only have one jack that's safe enough to work with, I don't have a flat surface to work on and I need to be able to spin the wheels, which means I can't leave the handbrake on... so I cobbled together some chocks for the wheels, and jacked up the left.. took the wheel off (never fun on a car that's rocking back and forth!).. took me a minute or two to find the sensor, then locate the plug, which is actually not in the wheel arch at all, and get the metre on it... EXCEPT, one of my fantastic soldered joints on the makeshift probe had broken, so... back inside to fix that... 15 minutes later... the sensor didn't check out... wheel back on, car down, move all the chocks, jack the car up.. no need to take the back right wheel off because I know I can get to the plug anyway... metered out fine. Dropped the car back down, removed the chocks.. rushed to apply the hand brake as the car started rolling away!..
Anyway.. took about 3 hours all in. And I know it will probably take the same again to swap the dodgy sensor given that they like to weld themselves into the hub.
Also discovered a dodgy cable to the brake pad wear sensors.
Then I need to tighten the ridiculously loose hand brake cable up, which probably means jacking the back end of the car up.. both sides at the same time.
It's a lot of work to save a few pounds.. but the MOT's due next week and I already need a new set of rear tyres and I've only just had to fork out for the Tax... money is tight!
I know (at least) one of the wheel speed sensors on the 320 is faulty, but I don't know which. Now I could have taken to a garage and got them to read the fault codes, but that would require money, something that's in short supply at the moment! In theory it's straight forward enough to test them, you just need the right tools.
A multi-meter I have... however, after jacking up the front of the car (not too difficult), removing the wheel, locating the wiring and pulling the connector apart, I discover that the two tiny little pins I need to get the probes across are set back about 20mm inside the plug.. the probes simply won't fit.. so after a little thought and about an hour of McGyver style soldering I've made a suitable rig from two cotton bud shafts, some thick speaker cable, some insulating tape and some thin telephone cable - turned out it worked a treat... so back out I went to the car.
Tested the front right wheel (put the probes across the terminals rotate the wheels and look for a fluctuating resistance).. checked okay.. so wheel back on... drop the car down, round to the front left, repeated the process and that one checked out okay too.
I'd have rather it was a front sensor, simply because it makes lifting the car easier. The problem with jacking the back is I only have one jack that's safe enough to work with, I don't have a flat surface to work on and I need to be able to spin the wheels, which means I can't leave the handbrake on... so I cobbled together some chocks for the wheels, and jacked up the left.. took the wheel off (never fun on a car that's rocking back and forth!).. took me a minute or two to find the sensor, then locate the plug, which is actually not in the wheel arch at all, and get the metre on it... EXCEPT, one of my fantastic soldered joints on the makeshift probe had broken, so... back inside to fix that... 15 minutes later... the sensor didn't check out... wheel back on, car down, move all the chocks, jack the car up.. no need to take the back right wheel off because I know I can get to the plug anyway... metered out fine. Dropped the car back down, removed the chocks.. rushed to apply the hand brake as the car started rolling away!..
Anyway.. took about 3 hours all in. And I know it will probably take the same again to swap the dodgy sensor given that they like to weld themselves into the hub.
Also discovered a dodgy cable to the brake pad wear sensors.
Then I need to tighten the ridiculously loose hand brake cable up, which probably means jacking the back end of the car up.. both sides at the same time.
It's a lot of work to save a few pounds.. but the MOT's due next week and I already need a new set of rear tyres and I've only just had to fork out for the Tax... money is tight!
- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
A bunch of small problems, it just got really annoying having my car down for periods of time and having to walk/bike to work in bad weather. So I took the engine out and sold the body to a junkyard, then bought my RSX. I'm getting another, I love those cars, but first the engine will be built to how I want, and a nice brake/suspension setup will be ready for an immediate bolt-on.
Speaking of the Acura, I was getting a vibration on the freeway so I got the wheels re-balanced. Turns out one of the tires is separating internally. They're all a bit dried-rotted anyway so hopefully I can replace them in a few weeks. I also sent my H22 valve cover off to a painter in Tennessee (he's a member of an Accord forum, I felt like supporting him) earlier in the week. It's gonna be bitchin'.
- 2,833
- Colorado
- GTP_Cyborg
^ It's currently 7 deg Farenheit here. Poor Canada, you guys suffering global warming or something up there?
If you're just a commuter... yes, that's about right. If you're into modifying your car... that's a huge understatement. I'll have about $13k put into my next Accord before I even purchase the thing. And I can't even decide whether I want a coupe or a wagon....
If you're just a commuter... yes, that's about right. If you're into modifying your car... that's a huge understatement. I'll have about $13k put into my next Accord before I even purchase the thing. And I can't even decide whether I want a coupe or a wagon....
- 27,203
- United Kingdom
- 8,207
- Drayton Bassett, North Warwickshire
- Duffers999
- Clark Duffy
I've tried everywhere to find an original Mtech one, they only one I kind find are cheap knock offs like this.
I've just ordered a non MTech oringal E30 weighted gearknob anyway.
I think these also came on the E30 but they're quite dear for a gearknob and I'm not entirely sure I like the look of them.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XJE6T2/?tag=gtplanet-20
I've just ordered a non MTech oringal E30 weighted gearknob anyway.
I think these also came on the E30 but they're quite dear for a gearknob and I'm not entirely sure I like the look of them.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XJE6T2/?tag=gtplanet-20
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