What have you done to your car today?

Slashfan
Easy horsepower =P

Gotta love it. I actually read up that stock manifolds actually produce more torque between 2000 and 3000 rpm than headers do. Larger diameter tubes just move the peak output up in the RPMs. I like it as low as possible.
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Well the x pipe and mufflers came in. Xpipe wont clear so I'm gonna just run the headers with about 24" of pipe then a muffler on each side without a crossover should be interesting!
 
wrapture
How old is the clutch? It sounds like it needs to be replaced.
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Only has about 400 miles on it. All new plates and springs. It's also shifting pretty rough. I'll have it set to where I know it's getting pulled far enough but it's still clunking when I shift.

It's an 88 Hawk gt. Hopefully it's not time for the undercut transmission mod. That's money I don't have right now.

Could the clutch springs be too stiff? It's way stiffer than it was before.
 
1stlsx
Well the x pipe and mufflers came in. Xpipe wont clear so I'm gonna just run the headers with about 24" of pipe then a muffler on each side without a crossover should be interesting!
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I have a rather interesting setup on my truck myself. With the extrude honed stock manifolds the passenger pipe goes straight down and out (both cut off about a foot before the rear axle, drivers side just a tad longer) but the drivers side crosses over (the front driveshaft angle actually blocks the pipe itself, we had to dent the pipe so it would strop rubbing the driveshaft) but it doesn't connect, it just turns and runs right alongside the passenger side pipe . Both pipes are on the right (looking from the back) of the bed. Can't run duals straight out because of the driveshaft, transfer case and gas tank being in the way. Makes me wonder how people configure that model for it....let alone dual tanks (like I started to install and never finished).
 
Slashfan
Easy horsepower =P

Gotta love it. I actually read up that stock manifolds actually produce more torque between 2000 and 3000 rpm than headers do. Larger diameter tubes just move the peak output up in the RPMs. I like it as low slow as possible.
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FTFY! :) I'll never understand you Slash, but I find you entertaining at least.


I finally diagnosed my fueling issues! According to a recommended tune, my carb should have '75' idle jets, and after taking mine apart, I have '52' idle jets! That is a huge difference! 75 is the largest jet you can put in a Dell'Orto, and 52 is one of the smallest! Essentially I was running extremely lean for the engine until high RPM, which caused the stumbling and hesitation you see here:



The perpetrator!

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Thank goodness for VW enthusiasts, as I would have had a bear of a time finding any Dell'Orto parts in the states. Shout out to CBperformance.com for having a full stock of Dell parts. Although their $20 min purchase sent me scrambling to find relevant stuff. Luckily I needed an air cleaner, so I bought one of their kits:

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Should look cool in my highly eclectic engine bay:

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Also, I'm planning a nitrous setup to see how much I can really get out of this stock port, 6 port 13b without forced induction. With a decent sized shot, I don't think 250whp (300bhp) is out of the question...which is a lot for a 2300lbs car. I need a second FPR so I can run a secondary fuel line to plumb in with the nitrous nozzles. Because the carb only needs 3psi or so, I think my stock EFI pump should provide enough fuel to feed the nitrous.
 
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I'm not questioning the validity of your statement, I'm questioning your insistence on low RPM torque over high RPM power.


Torque has no relationship to speed. Really, it doesn't. Torque is work. Work does not involve time in any capacity. Physics 1301.

Power = Speed. Power = Work / Time. This is where speed happens. This is why rotaries are fast despite having no torque. Power is everything.

Too much power is almost enough.

Unless of course you are seeking low RPM torque for reasons like drivability, utility, logical street performance, better fuel mileage, or the general feeling of having an ocean of grunt. I don't know anything about these.
 
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Eunos_Cosmo
I'm not questioning the validity of your statement, I'm questioning your insistence on low RPM torque over high RPM power.


Torque has no relationship to speed. Really, it doesn't. Torque is work. Work does not involve time in any capacity. Physics 1301.

Power = Speed. Power = Work / Time. This is where speed happens. This is why rotaries are fast despite having no torque. Power is everything.

Too much power is almost enough.

Unless of course you are seeking low RPM torque for reasons like drivability, utility, logical street performance, better fuel mileage, or the general feeling of having an ocean of grunt. I don't know anything about these.
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Last statement is spot on. especially on a vehicle that weighs 6600 pounds.
 
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Installed a trickle charger:
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My Dad kept telling me to double stick tape it to the battery, but if you have ever seen an AW11 MR2 engine bay, you know that wont work.
 
Bought these a while back & finally got around to installing them.
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Top end has definitely increased & the car is a bit louder now, but glad to finally have them on. The only "downside" is now wondering if I'll pass my emissions in the winter, but that's a ways away. :P
 
McLaren
Bought these a while back & finally got around to installing them.
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Top end has definitely increased & the car is a bit louder now, but glad to finally have them on. The only "downside" is now wondering if I'll pass my emissions in the winter, but that's a ways away. :P
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U can always register ur car at my house in San Antonio :) No emissions for me!
 
New pipe and turndowns came in. Will be taking the old exhust and headers off when Im done working. Should have the new exhaust installed tomorrow morning and Ill post up some videos of the open headers and the competed product.

On another note, a friend of mine, Corey Hosford, is currently in Long Beach, CA for Round 1 of Formula D Pro qualifying. He is running a 350Z with a LS7 sponsored by KSport this season. Everyone wish him the best of luck this year!
 
Ok so I got home from work last night and took this quick video to show how the exhaust sounded before upgrading and fixing the leaks:



And here are some of the offending parts removed:

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And here are some installed pics:

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Please excuse the poor welding on the flex pipe, but I had to turn the welder down to keep it from burning thru and it looks like crap!

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And here is the after video:



Setup is Pacesetter long tubes, non coated to 18" pipe to Flowtech Warlock mufflers w/ turn downs.

Installed a new set of NGK TR55 plugs and new O2 sensors while it was apart. The Accel ceramic wires make removal and installation a breeze, these are a must for anyone putting after market wires on, worth the extra $30 everytime!

Video of course does not do it justice. Has an awesome lope at idle in gear and purrs ate freeway speeds. When you pay on it sounds like a built sbc should.
 
A dry spell with no rain meant the air was getting pretty dusty and crappy. A day full of lots and lots of wind earlier this week meant everything got really dusty. A subsequent night of rain meant that everyone's car was covered in streaks of wet dust. Seeing as the Lexus hadn't been washed in a month anyway, it was looking like it had been parked in Dubai for a week, so I got off my lazy ass today and washed it (all by myself, a first!) and bathed it. Drying was the hardest, so the car still looks a bit crappy, but it's an improvement.

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Changed to summer tyres, now waiting for more snow...

Also patched up some holes in the sill to keep them water tight until I can work out where to buy welding gas in Norway!
 
So before I did the headers I was using Torque for Android to monitor the truck while driving. Previously on trips to and from work it was showing an average of +/-12MPG (actually was about 9.5) and now it is showing 18+ MPG, not sure on actual yet, but if its off by 20% im still over 14MPG now....

This does tell me that the exhaust leak was costing me quite a bit in fuel over the last few months....
 
Ordered a new shift knob!

Buddy Club Type B:
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I feel it has just enough of a classic look for my '84 RX-7 and is weighted nicely.

The one it is replacing is this RE-Amemiya one:
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I've gotten tired of the Amemiya one because it is extremely heavy and deadens all of the feel in order for positive shifting action. I'd rather have something more precise and responsive than big with lots of inertia. The Amemiya one is also extremely plain and doesn't really fit the interior of the car, it would probably look more at home in a third gen car.

Next up, I want to order one of these:
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Primarily so I can wear driving gloves without feeling like too big of a dork. I'm alright with feeling like somewhat of a dork. Hence the desire to wear driving gloves in the first place.
 
Didn't work on any of my vehicles today but I helped a friend drop an oil pan off the 302 in his truck. Needed to be replaced and didn't have much time to work on it so all I got done was get the bolts out which was a work out of it's own. Eventually got them out but a bad gasket/seal, no room to work and everything covered in heavy rust and cake took it's toll. Told him he needed to rebuild his motor. Said it has power but he feels it's a bit weak.Compared to the completely trashed 318 he had in his old '87 Dodge he said it's got assloads more power though.
 

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