What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter Perfect Balance
- 6,672 comments
- 372,342 views
- 6,092
- Phoenix, AZ
Bought some Turtle Wax headlight restoration stuff today. Took about an hour from start to finish, and while it's not perfect it is a noticeable improvement. The passenger's headlight is still a little foggy, but at least it doesn't look yellow now.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
- 2,583
- Kelowna, Canada
- Antonisbob
- No...
Installed trailer wiring I ripped out of another (Even Green, like mine) '85 Parisienne that was at the Pick-n-Pull, Now I just need to weld and bolt the hitch onto my frame & it'll be good to tow. 👍
- 2,336
- Los Angeles, CA
- WRBWRXMAX
- Max Archer
Drained and replaced the old gas that was making my E30 run poorly. Unfortunately it turned out to be a much more difficult process than I expected, and didn't end all that well.
So anyway, my friend and I went to buy a gas can and pump to pump the tank out. Turns out the gas tank is far enough away from the filler that the hose wouldn't reach. So we pulled the back seat, opened the access panel, and pulled the fuel level sender out of the middle of the fuel pump so that we could get the hose into the tank. My friend is actually the one who jumped in and pulled the sender, which will become important later. So we pumped out the tank and left everything open to air out.
A few hours later, I go to reinstall the sender and see that there are four nuts and four washers that hold it on to four studs sticking up from the fuel pump. I look at the sender and see that on the bottom of the screw holes, there are countersunk areas that look just the right size for the washers. So I put the washers on the studs, slide the sender on, and bolt it down. I put the gallon of fresh gas we'd picked up in the tank and drive it to the gas station to fill it up.
I get to the gas station, put the nozzle in the car, and walk away while it's pumping to wash the windows. The pump clicks off and when I walk around the car, I see a big puddle of fuel. Pull the access panel lid and it's soaked with gas. I call my friend, talk to him for a minute, and he says "wait, the washers were ON TOP of the sender!" Fortunately I'd brought my tools in expectation of just such an eventuality and start pulling everything apart once I've dried it up. Get the nuts and washers into the right position, start to tighten them down, and one of the studs snaps right off with the nut as I turn the ratchet!
So I tightened the rest down carefully, let the car air out and drain for a while, and very carefully limped it home. It seemed to do OK, but tomorrow it's going straight to the shop to have them deal with the broken stud. (Which may require a new fuel pump to fix...)
The good news is the car runs MUCH better on the fresh gas. Hopefully I'll have it up and running in a few more days.
So anyway, my friend and I went to buy a gas can and pump to pump the tank out. Turns out the gas tank is far enough away from the filler that the hose wouldn't reach. So we pulled the back seat, opened the access panel, and pulled the fuel level sender out of the middle of the fuel pump so that we could get the hose into the tank. My friend is actually the one who jumped in and pulled the sender, which will become important later. So we pumped out the tank and left everything open to air out.
A few hours later, I go to reinstall the sender and see that there are four nuts and four washers that hold it on to four studs sticking up from the fuel pump. I look at the sender and see that on the bottom of the screw holes, there are countersunk areas that look just the right size for the washers. So I put the washers on the studs, slide the sender on, and bolt it down. I put the gallon of fresh gas we'd picked up in the tank and drive it to the gas station to fill it up.
I get to the gas station, put the nozzle in the car, and walk away while it's pumping to wash the windows. The pump clicks off and when I walk around the car, I see a big puddle of fuel. Pull the access panel lid and it's soaked with gas. I call my friend, talk to him for a minute, and he says "wait, the washers were ON TOP of the sender!" Fortunately I'd brought my tools in expectation of just such an eventuality and start pulling everything apart once I've dried it up. Get the nuts and washers into the right position, start to tighten them down, and one of the studs snaps right off with the nut as I turn the ratchet!
So I tightened the rest down carefully, let the car air out and drain for a while, and very carefully limped it home. It seemed to do OK, but tomorrow it's going straight to the shop to have them deal with the broken stud. (Which may require a new fuel pump to fix...)
The good news is the car runs MUCH better on the fresh gas. Hopefully I'll have it up and running in a few more days.
- 652
- nizmo_bro
I stripped out my back half of the interior. Started feeling a bit damp, so I got it all out before it starts to mold. I think my hatch is leaking. I need some new weather stripping. I also gave her a bath and lowered the back about 4cm. I could go lower, but my exhaust system hangs too low. Scrapes real bad as it sits now already.
- 942
- NC
- MCNAGTROC
Since ive been only using the GTR for track stuff lately Ive been driving my truck more so did a little makeover on my 2005 NISMO Frontier. I redid all the fading milky gray plastic in and wheels matte black Plasti Dip. Turned out pretty well. Removed the old ugly mud guards too
- 2,336
- Los Angeles, CA
- WRBWRXMAX
- Max Archer
The dip came out nice! I did my E30's hood the other day and while it's an improvement over the trashed paint, it's a little rough.
E30 hood Plastidip by maximstensel, on Flickr
- 6,092
- Phoenix, AZ
The seats in the Lexus aren't necessarily in bad condition, but eleven years of use has taken its toll on the two front seats. The rears were fine and didn't need any cleaning. The upper and lower driver's side bolsters were the worst area, with some dark cracks (no tears though), and compared to the rear seats it did look a little darker and dirtier. The bolsters on the front passenger's seat were the same, but the wear was to a lesser degree. The center console was also looking a bit dark and worn. The main spot that bothered me was the grab area on the driver's side door, where the leather had somehow developed a weird yellow-green color that was just weird. That spot still has that weird color (
), but it's not as bad as it was before. The cleaning worked wonders everywhere else, and I'm happy with the results. The camera was conveniently dead the day I cleaned the seats, but the difference is still noticeable in cellphone photos.
Driver's seat (duh).
Driver's lower bolster (yay for completely different angles).
Center console (also note the change in the passenger's upper bolster).
Driver's door.
Passenger's seat (yay for sun glare).
Passenger's lower bolster.
Most people that've used Leatherique note that there's a big difference in the way the leather feels afterwards, particularly the softness. It definitely does feel different, less slick and slippery than before; definitely a little softer. After I finished cleaning up the insides, the car sat in the garage with the windows rolled down for about a day to air out. I didn't notice a smell when I drove it today, which is definitely a plus. There is a bit of a nasty smell when you're applying the stuff though. But overall I'm satisfied with the product, and there's plenty left for further uses in the future, which I definitely do plan on doing. I got the 16oz. kit which included everything I need, and while steep at over seventy dollars with shipping, the results are worth it.
), but it's not as bad as it was before. The cleaning worked wonders everywhere else, and I'm happy with the results. The camera was conveniently dead the day I cleaned the seats, but the difference is still noticeable in cellphone photos.Driver's seat (duh).
Driver's lower bolster (yay for completely different angles).
Center console (also note the change in the passenger's upper bolster).
Driver's door.
Passenger's seat (yay for sun glare).
Passenger's lower bolster.
Most people that've used Leatherique note that there's a big difference in the way the leather feels afterwards, particularly the softness. It definitely does feel different, less slick and slippery than before; definitely a little softer. After I finished cleaning up the insides, the car sat in the garage with the windows rolled down for about a day to air out. I didn't notice a smell when I drove it today, which is definitely a plus. There is a bit of a nasty smell when you're applying the stuff though. But overall I'm satisfied with the product, and there's plenty left for further uses in the future, which I definitely do plan on doing. I got the 16oz. kit which included everything I need, and while steep at over seventy dollars with shipping, the results are worth it.
- 2,336
- Los Angeles, CA
- WRBWRXMAX
- Max Archer
Installed a Corksport Short Ram Intake and rear torsion bar brace on the Mazda2. Great upgrades, the SRI does most of its work in the midrange, but the big side benefit is it makes the car sound great, it finally sounds sporty, and rev matching is much easier. It's also super quiet at low throttle, which is nice. The torsion bar acts much like a rear sway bar, and the car turns in to corners impressively sharply now, and is much more oversteer happy. I went around a road near my house that's just a few uphill turns, but has clear sightlines and no houses, so I could do it decently quickly, and the car is much more responsive on turn-in and much more neutral through the corner, with a little oversteer if you overcook it. Pretty impressive for an FWD.
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
67 Fastback Mustang
More pics in the members ride section.
1.Lowered the front of the Mustang about 4-5 inches. Still need to dial in the rear to get the stance I want. That will involve new leaf springs.
2. Started swapping in the 5 lug disk brakes on the front with 11" slotted rotors. Thats going well so far.
3. Finally got around to swapping out the old 4 lug rear end with a 5 lug rear end. It was a DIRECT bolt in and only took about an hour of work and 4 new U bolts.
4. Then I bolted up the 17x8" Vintage V45 wheels with 245/45/17 tires on the rear that I bought a couple years ago. PERFECT fit and I love the look of them on this car!!!!!
5. I tried the V45 wheels and tires up front but the backspacing just isnt going to work with that wide of a wheel. So when I order front wheels I will go with at least 1/2" more backspacing OR will go with a wheel that is not quite as wide up front. Maybe 17x7
I still need to get 2 wheels and 2 tires for the front. But this is the most progress I have made on the Mustang in years!!
Teaser rear shot with new 17x8" Vintage V45 wheels. 245/45/17 tires.
I have also completed quite a bit on my Camaro but I will post about that another day with pics. Just one car at a time for now.
More pics in the members ride section.
1.Lowered the front of the Mustang about 4-5 inches. Still need to dial in the rear to get the stance I want. That will involve new leaf springs.
2. Started swapping in the 5 lug disk brakes on the front with 11" slotted rotors. Thats going well so far.
3. Finally got around to swapping out the old 4 lug rear end with a 5 lug rear end. It was a DIRECT bolt in and only took about an hour of work and 4 new U bolts.
4. Then I bolted up the 17x8" Vintage V45 wheels with 245/45/17 tires on the rear that I bought a couple years ago. PERFECT fit and I love the look of them on this car!!!!!
5. I tried the V45 wheels and tires up front but the backspacing just isnt going to work with that wide of a wheel. So when I order front wheels I will go with at least 1/2" more backspacing OR will go with a wheel that is not quite as wide up front. Maybe 17x7
I still need to get 2 wheels and 2 tires for the front. But this is the most progress I have made on the Mustang in years!!
Teaser rear shot with new 17x8" Vintage V45 wheels. 245/45/17 tires.
I have also completed quite a bit on my Camaro but I will post about that another day with pics. Just one car at a time for now.
nick09
(Banned)
- 6,169
- NY
- nlck09
My driver side door was crushed by a accident. Got the door yesterday and switched the doors on my car today with my father. The new door is maroon(painted back in 2000) but it's an older paint style compared to my car(2003 car) which has the revised maroon color.
- 2,194
- Essex
- Huskyfluff
I bought my 306 a present today!
The brightest sidelight LEDs they do in Halfords, 15 blue LEDs in each one
So glad Peugeot made changing bulbs super easy, cover twists off and the holder just pulls out.
And that's in bright sunlight, they are gonna glow at night-time
And as an added bonus, no more orange glowy bulbs in my book lights! White LEDs are the way to go
Will post again with a night-time pic of those lights!
The brightest sidelight LEDs they do in Halfords, 15 blue LEDs in each one
So glad Peugeot made changing bulbs super easy, cover twists off and the holder just pulls out.
And that's in bright sunlight, they are gonna glow at night-time
And as an added bonus, no more orange glowy bulbs in my book lights! White LEDs are the way to go
Will post again with a night-time pic of those lights!
CAMAROBOY69
Premium
- 18,567
- Michigan
- CAMAROBOY69
^ Ironic that you just posted about LED lights. I am in the process of converting ALL the exterior lights on my 69 Camaro to LED and SMD. Much brighter and uses a LOT less energy.
Rear lights are LED. Each bulb has 30 LED lights. 18 LED lights facing forward and each is surrounded by 12 more LED lights. 30 LED lights per bulb x 6 bulbs. 180 led lights.
I had to completely modify the rear brake housings to hold the 180 LED bulbs. Involved cutting the back off then screwing and gluing on 16 gauge steel plates. The slotted holes were cut with a plasma gun and dremel so the bulbs would fit perfectly.
Each side marker light has 1 bulb but each bulb contains 5 SMD lights. The rear side marker lights and rear tail lights are 100% complete. Wiring is all soldered, shrink wrapped, and tucked away. All the old plastic colored lenses on my car have all been converted to clear to match the rear tail lights.
Currently working on the front now. When I finish the front of the car I will post more pics.
So here are the pics of the rear brake lights and rear side marker lights.
You can see the entire build process here.
Rear lights are LED. Each bulb has 30 LED lights. 18 LED lights facing forward and each is surrounded by 12 more LED lights. 30 LED lights per bulb x 6 bulbs. 180 led lights.
I had to completely modify the rear brake housings to hold the 180 LED bulbs. Involved cutting the back off then screwing and gluing on 16 gauge steel plates. The slotted holes were cut with a plasma gun and dremel so the bulbs would fit perfectly.
Each side marker light has 1 bulb but each bulb contains 5 SMD lights. The rear side marker lights and rear tail lights are 100% complete. Wiring is all soldered, shrink wrapped, and tucked away. All the old plastic colored lenses on my car have all been converted to clear to match the rear tail lights.
Currently working on the front now. When I finish the front of the car I will post more pics.
So here are the pics of the rear brake lights and rear side marker lights.
You can see the entire build process here.
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- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
New exhausts are always exciting lol.
For me it was just changing all 4 brake pads ready for my track morning in the weekend. Doing a flush with Castrol SRF before then too.
For me it was just changing all 4 brake pads ready for my track morning in the weekend. Doing a flush with Castrol SRF before then too.
- 2,194
- Essex
- Huskyfluff
Scratch that, the 306 has gone! It died today and I scrapped it to save time and money...on the way in a week or so is a black 306 DTurbo saved my LED bulbs and my subwoofer for it...
saved my LED bulbs and my subwoofer for it...
nick09
(Banned)
- 6,169
- NY
- nlck09
Converted the insides from power windows to manual windows. Also switched the locks so I can actually unlock the car. Staying naked inside until the new mirror comes in the mail.
Now it's that car with that purple door but the color is actually a maroon color somewhat like the rest of the car.
Now it's that car with that purple door but the color is actually a maroon color somewhat like the rest of the car.
ND4SPD
Premium
- 8,479
- Guelph ON
- JeffZ28
- Jeff C6R
Picked up the Vette from the shop. They had to do a couple of extra things to make it fit like making a custom H pipe and converting the 2.5inch pipes to 3 inchers. Dear god. It sounds like the gates of hell opening at full throttle now and the seat of the pants feeling is ridiculous. It never used to spin the tires in 1st and 2nd with traction control fully on but now it just does! I'll have to make a video of the exhaust now!
- 197
Put the new seal on this morning and took the car out for a hard drive and let me just say this thing continues to impress with the grip it provides. You toss it in to a corner and mash the gas and it just pulls and pulls. I even managed to get a couple 2nd gear drifts going. The 2.5" straight pipe is music to your ears above 4K. Very happy with the car right now and plan to wash it in a bit for some track time tonight!
- 197
Got a dash mount for my phone and setup Torque for logging and installed an awesome plug-in that will allow me to record video and overlay the recorded data. Wish us luck, looking for high - mid 13's tonight! Will have some vids tomorrow.
Video from the track racing against the 7 series:
Video from the track racing against the 7 series:
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- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
Haven't done anything but wanted to share a summer trick
I read that to reduce slightly significantly you incar tem temp on hot weather before entering the car you simply roll down the passenger side window then repeatedly open and close the driver side door (5 times is enough) what happens is the hot air rises and exits the window effectively reducing the car temprature ,tried today and I could feel a difference so give it a try.
I read that to reduce slightly significantly you incar tem temp on hot weather before entering the car you simply roll down the passenger side window then repeatedly open and close the driver side door (5 times is enough) what happens is the hot air rises and exits the window effectively reducing the car temprature ,tried today and I could feel a difference so give it a try.
- 197
No the window open is the way to do it and makes more sense. You are using the force of the door closing to pull in the relatively cooler air from outside the car and forcing the warmer air out the window on the passenger side. With the window closed it does no good. Kinda like if its windy and you roll the drivers window down it doesnt do much, but if you also roll the pasenger side down the wind can flow through the car and not hit a wall.
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