What have you done to your car today?

a new 4-speed for a 93 corolla just came today.

id rather start out with something like a celica or honda. something fun to buy performance parts for and save gas on but oh well. a corolla is good enough for the 1 yr.
 
The exact same thing happens to me on the front left only, how much life have your pads got? Some brake pads have metal tounges that eventually touch the disk and make a squeaking noise when the pads need changing soon, Im pretty sure thats what mine is because when I changed the front springs I saw the pads only have 2-3mm of life left!



Most modern cars have squealers designed on the brake pads.

I checked the rear caliper yesterday, after autocross (Since the noise had become more prominent).
One pad is metal-on-metal, and the other has about 3/4 life left in it.

So I somehow managed to cook the pad in a year flat. The caliper or parking brake must be hanging up... I'll look further into it when I replace the pads in a couple days (They had to be ordered in).

Oh well, they're cheap - Ceramic pads for $40. I hope the disc isn't too badly damaged - I can see abnormal wear where the backing plate is contacting. Looks like I get to be one of those people who drives around in a squealing car for a couple days.
 
Most modern cars have squealers designed on the brake pads.

I checked the rear caliper yesterday, after autocross (Since the noise had become more prominent).
One pad is metal-on-metal, and the other has about 3/4 life left in it.

So I somehow managed to cook the pad in a year flat. The caliper or parking brake must be hanging up... I'll look further into it when I replace the pads in a couple days (They had to be ordered in).

Oh well, they're cheap - Ceramic pads for $40. I hope the disc isn't too badly damaged - I can see abnormal wear where the backing plate is contacting. Looks like I get to be one of those people who drives around in a squealing car for a couple days.
You should look into Composite H racing pads for your car when you are road track racing or autocrossing. I have been using Wilwood Composite H racing pads on my front disks of the 69 Camaro for 4 years with no problems. They make a HUGE difference on the track. I bought mine directly from Wilwood. I put them on before each event then take them off after the event is over. They are designed to start working after 100 degrees.
Since you have 4 disks you could buy them for your front and rear brakes.
I guess it all depends on how much road track racing you do. I usually put around 100 miles a day at each event. You can see those videos in my sig.
 
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While I do some hard braking during autocross, it's not typically prolonged braking. I did a trackday earlier in June, and had no issue with pad fade, or boiling the fluid. - I've got carbon-ceramic pads up front that are rated to 850 degrees, along with Motul RBF600 fluid. My front pads seem to be wearing just fine (Although I've warped the rotors a little). I am also doing it every other weekend or more, so swapping brake pads on a weekly or semi-weekly basis is more than I'd ideally want to do. I'll be swapping tires for every event starting in a couple weeks, as I've finally got street rubber on order.
 
Disassembled the front right caliper to diagnose a new noise (Almost squealer-esque, but not constant, and it goes away when I'm on the brakes).

those noises are the worst lol, i sold my last car just to get it away, couldnt find a thing wrong with the brake parts, plenty pad meat left and worked alright, fine greased shims...it was frustratingly baffling.

filled up, finally a tank full is back to under 40 quid again woo. one thing i do like with the astra is the filler cap being on the drivers side, most cars i see have it on the other side but now i dont have to queue up for those left hand pumps and theres always free ones for my side :D 2 miles left to home and some total spoon throws up stones on a resurfaced road and now iv got a bunch of windscreen chips and cracks to deal with :grumpy:
 
Changed the oil and oil filter and also used the engine flush.
Used Mobil 1 5w30 fully synth which cost a whopping £46.99!!! :0 Hasnt made any difference, car isnt any quieter or smoother. Should have used the cheap and cheerful halfords oil like last time:indiff:
Oh well one thing that did make me smile though was the fact the car jack I normally use to lift the front couldnt go under because the fronts so low ...:).... Awesome

Anyway that was yesterday, today...today I went to my mechanic mates house to try and remove the rear strut bolt.
We used a cheater bar that must have been coming up to a metre in length, soaked the bolt in penetrating spray made especially for situations like this, a hammer to 'shock' the bolt and on top of that we had a small butane torch to try and heat the bolt............. but unsurprisingly all this effort didnt work and the bolt wouldn't come loose.
I noticed the bolt twisting but the problem is that its moving with the bush its connected to also working from the arch there wasn't enough room to get any leverage so my mate said just to take it to a garage where they can use an impact gun and the proper torch to get the bolt cherry red hot. After it gets red hot it will be a piece of piss to get out he said....and I hope....:(
 
Today I loaded my street wheels and new tires into a friends' truck and took them to a shop to get mounted. Dropped the wheels off at dad's house, and I went to retrieve the car.

On Thursday, I replaced the rear pads with some Ceramic pads - The caliper must've been hanging up, even though it's about fourteen months old. After a few tries and test runs, I was able to get the caliper into a driveable condition. It worsened on Friday evening, resulting in onlookers pointing at my car as my rear right was smoking-hot.

Today, while changing wheels, I took the caliper apart to investigate. I pried the flimsy backing plate-backing plate off, as it's essentially useless and would give me a little more clearance. And I discovered my major issue: The piston on the caliper has a notch where it's supposed to fit over an aligner on the pad. This aligner on the pad was too large to fit in the notch, and thus I had lost the eighth-inch of clearance. Resulting in always-on brakes and smoke. I 'adjusted' the aligner, and reassembled. Fixed.

(I almost said 'sod it', and ordered a new caliper before noticing that it was the pad's fault.)

Oh, and I also washed it.
 
Heathers 67 Fastback Mustang
Drove her mustang for the first time in 2 years. I posted all about that here in post #21 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=109783

My 69 Camaro
Worked on a confidential product design for the inside of 4th gen Camaros and Trans Ams.

My 96 Saturn
Added new hydrolic brake fluid and checked the manual tranny fluid. I did this in hopes the clutch wasnt wearing out but it looks like its the original clutch wearing out.
 
went to a guy in morrisons car park n got me windscreen cracks sorted, he did a great job, fancy stuff involving resin and uv light can hardly seen em now! cost me 50 but apparently i can get it back from insurance. i wouldnt have minded too much even if it was my money spent, most impressed
 
Today I did the following;
-Washed the car using my new sheepskin wash mit, Autoglym Shampoo & two bucket method (one for clean, one for rinsing)
-Dried it all off, including door shuts and boot area
-Used Super Resin Polish on a few teeny scratches that were annoying me
-Waxed using Meguairs Gold Class
-Watched in horror as it started to rain 10 minutes after completion.
 
Did a full wash and wax today, went like this;

-Washed using 2 bucket method, AutoGlym Bodywork Shampoo & Meguairs sheepswool wash mitt
-Dried using dryer blade on the windows and AutoGlym Chamois on the bodywork, slamming bonnet, boot and doors to shake out any hidden water
-Dried interior joints (boot hinges, under bonnet etc.) and cleaned inside fuel filler cap
-Clayed rear and front bumpers using Meguairs Quick Detailer and block of clay, wiped off detailing fluid with Meguairs towel
-Applied Meguairs Gold Class wax all over using applicator for large panels and working with my hands for smaller areas
-Buffed off entire car using a terry towel
-Polished all glass including lights using AutoGlym Glass Polish
-Gave the interior another quick once over using a few TurtleWax wipes
 
I had the use of my mom's garage last afternoon through part of today. I took it upon myself to do my annual major paint work on the car.

I started by giving it a thorough wash using Meguiars wash, a large bucket, and two mitts - One for underhood, wheels, and the bottom couple inches of the car where it's the dirtiest. One for the 'clean' areas of the exterior. I did the door and trunk sills, and a quick underhood wash as well.

I dried the car and moved it into the garage. I started with a clay bar. This is probably the first time the car's been claybar'd, and as such took off lots of debris from the paint. I used Meguiars Detailing Clay with Meguiars Quick Detailer as a lubricant.

The next step was a thorough cleaning of the paint using Meguiars #2 Fine Cut Cleaner and a rotary buffer with a foam pad.

Due to the numerous rock chips on the hood, fenders, and bumper of the car and the fact that I never repaired them (Most of which were from the original owner), I took time to do some touch-up work. I used a touch up pen/brush comination to fill in (no exaggeration) about 100 chips, pits, and nicks on the front end. While the results weren't perfect, they're good enough for now. A proper job would require clearcoating every touch up and wetsanding to level with the surrounding paint, but I simply didn't have time (or the patience) to do so.

Being after midnight at this point, I decided to continue in the morning. My next step was Meguiars #3 Machine Glaze, a machine applied pure polish. I used the rotary buffer again with a fresh pad. While the Fine Cut did a good job of bringing the paint back, the Machine Glaze adds incredible depth and clarity to the paint. The duo brought back my black-grey paint to a much truer black. Machine Glaze is a must-have for any dark colour, especially black.

My final step was wax - I used Meguiars NXT Tech Wax 2.0. This is the first time I've applied their NXT Wax, and is a move away from their High Tech Yellow Wax for me. I tried it based solely on the rumour I'd heard that it the residue from it dries clear. It does. I attempted the use of a random orbit buffer for removal, only to have the pad come loose from the backing. I found during the resulting hand-removal that this NXT Tech Wax seemed to be more difficult to remove than the Yellow wax. The small amounts of residue that your 'second wipe' should remove required a fourth, fifth, and sixth pass with considerably more pressure than normal.


I dusted the car off, cleaned the windows using Invisible Glass (Which is easily the best glass cleaner I've used), and applied tire shine.

I'm happy with the overall result - The paint was definitely due for work. I need to focus on keeping wax on the car on a more frequent basis to avoid this twelve to fourteen hour process on an annual basis. In the meantime, it's as smooth as glass.

I then drove home and unloaded the car, vacuumed the interior, and went to a friends house. It turns out their sprinkler system goes on nightly :guilty:
 
We lowered a mate's car yesterday. Layed it on the floor, and then literally layed it on the floor some more when one of the wheels came loose :lol:
At 3am we had to use a widowmaker on a hill.
 
69 Camaro
Since I wont be doing any more road track events this year I decided to put my regular pads on the front of my car instead of the Wilwood racing pads. I also decided to check to see if my rear brakes were doing anything. I checked them and just as I suspected they hardly work at all. The adjusters dont seem to be adjusting out how they are supposed to. So I turned those out at least 5 turns. I plan on eventually getting disks anyway so its no big deal.
I also built an exhaust hanger bracket out of steel instead of the crappy 1967 rubber exhaust hangers. Now I can jump the car as much as I want and the bracket shouldnt break.
After this I took the car for about a 15 minute cruise around down by the lake. 👍
96 Saturn
Heather vacuumed my entire car out and wiped the interior out with Armor All.
02 Saturn
She also vacuumed her car and we washed it.
 
Got the windows tinted last night and few days before that got the rear of my car lowered yay! Pics to follow when it stops raining....
 
today the radiator gave up! first noticed the electronics warning light come on, i managed to get off the motorway and into a layby on an A road, just. it died on the junction roundabout which was fun, having my foot down and no revs at all. moved it to safety eventually and found no coolant left. hopefully the overheating hasnt damaged too much :scared: it was a reasonably slow leak but enough over a few days losing it i guess, i only checked the levels the other day
 
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Well I gave my Hyundai Elantra a pair of xenon lights and a set of Yokohama tires with with the brand painted on the wall, to give it that Import feel to it
 
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Replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor on my RSX. Payed $200 for the sensor, then $45 to the mechanic to essentially jack up my car (i knew exactly how to install it, and it took 30 seconds).

I also poured in some STP fuel system cleaner because my car was running really rich while the sensor was broken.
 
Well I gave my Hyundai Elantra a pair of xenon lights and a set of Yokohama tires with with the brand painted on the wall, to give it that Import feel to it

Real xenon bulbs or those crappy fake ones that blind everyone because you wanted that hyperwhite/ice blue/flying saucer look to your car? I hate when people upgrade their lighting without thinking about how it all works, sure I was one of those bastards when I was younger but after researching how automotive lighting works I knew that I was not a very nice person on the road.
 
Washed my 300M Special and my moms Grand Prix GT. I used this Black Magic express spray wax on my car...never again. It left nasty streaks all over it. It's so bad I'm gonna have to wash it again this week.

I really need to buy a clay bar and some real wax...
 
Real xenon bulbs or those crappy fake ones that blind everyone because you wanted that hyperwhite/ice blue/flying saucer look to your car? I hate when people upgrade their lighting without thinking about how it all works, sure I was one of those bastards when I was younger but after researching how automotive lighting works I knew that I was not a very nice person on the road.

I just thought it makes the car look nice. It does blind you a bit and yes I do like the hyperwhite/ice blue/flying saucer look to my car, who doesn't? It makes the car stand out in night traffic
 
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I just thought it makes the car look nice. It does blind you a bit and yes I do like the hyperwhite/ice blue/ flying saucer look to my car, who doesn't?

If they aren't DOT approved I do hope you get pulled over for them.
 
DOT=Department of Transportation.

Well it's approved, just checked the package. Sorry Joey D but it looks like I won't get pulled over. It's really cool to have them on. It's part of the Import world dude. I may not be a car enthusiast (which I don't want be one) like everyone else but I am definitly a Import Boy
 
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