A lap at Nurburgring in YOUR car
- Thread starter Raptor13x
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- 1,003
traction AA, temp A, z-rated. N3, technically.
I think all should be N2 if standard, simply based on GT4 programming though.
why didnt you just read the name of the tire?
I think all should be N2 if standard, simply based on GT4 programming though.
why didnt you just read the name of the tire?
- 23,800
- Philippines
If it's got tread, it's still N2.
I've been driving a lot of cars in the game, and if the car comes with extra grippies in real life, it's still better on N2's than most other cars are on N2's.
I've just been thrashing the hell out of two cars on N2s, one of which I know is faster in real life if they were on the same tires. The slower one still keeps close, though, because in real life, it runs on some real grippy Potenzas (still street compound, though). The game reflects this accurately.
N3's are the barely streetable kind... intermediates... though Scaff opines that the M3CSL seems to run stock grip and times on N3's.
Ergo, if your tire isn't as expensive as a Pilot Sport Cup, it's probably N2.
I've been driving a lot of cars in the game, and if the car comes with extra grippies in real life, it's still better on N2's than most other cars are on N2's.
I've just been thrashing the hell out of two cars on N2s, one of which I know is faster in real life if they were on the same tires. The slower one still keeps close, though, because in real life, it runs on some real grippy Potenzas (still street compound, though). The game reflects this accurately.
N3's are the barely streetable kind... intermediates... though Scaff opines that the M3CSL seems to run stock grip and times on N3's.
Ergo, if your tire isn't as expensive as a Pilot Sport Cup, it's probably N2.
- 36,644
- Scotland
- GTP_daan
I'm sure that if you buy an M3 CSL, you have to sign a disclaimer saying you won't drive it, or that you at least know it's going to be very dangerous, in the wet. The tyres are road legal, but they're pretty much slicks with a very slight tread pattern.niky
- 1,003
DuGong
At least, in America, traction ratings go no higher than AA temp ratings no higher than A and speed no higher than Z. the treadwear on that tire is 340, I think, which is relativly low, therefore, is a fairly soft tire.
the problem with tire's is in GT4 there are 3 variants. IRL, there are 5 kinds of street tire. all-weather, touring, performance touring, high-performance, and ultra-high.
So his tires are likely level 4, IRL out of 5. therefore, N2's & N3's are not correct, and either could be acceptable.
On the CSL, sounds like S tires to me.
BUT, it's not about what it SHOULD be, based on real-life, its about what the idiots at PD factored into the game. which means you should be using N2's, as we all should.
UNLESS, you have worse tires than you're car comes with from the factory. or if they are better.
Example: My car: Goodyear Eagle RS-A's stock. level 3, IRL. If I had Bridgestone Potenza S-02's (or 3's), I need N3's in GT4, as they assume the worse tires. In contrast, if I have 35$ cooper all-weather radials, I'd need to downgrade to N1's
His tires are probably between N2 and N3, so either would be acceptable.- 860
Ha my car is easy. I have 93 240sx fastback. stock car.
so All I have to do is put on N1's and -20% Power on the GT4 96 240sx (180 with 240 badges)
And my old car is easy too. It's an 84 300zx 2+2 so all I need is the 83 Fairlady Z turbo and -20% power and +10% wieght on N1's.
I'll get on that tonight.
Pics https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2267799#post2267799
so All I have to do is put on N1's and -20% Power on the GT4 96 240sx (180 with 240 badges)
And my old car is easy too. It's an 84 300zx 2+2 so all I need is the 83 Fairlady Z turbo and -20% power and +10% wieght on N1's.
I'll get on that tonight.
Pics https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2267799#post2267799
- 860
K here are my times.......
84 300zx 2+2 = 83 Fairlady 300zx, -20% hp, +10% wieght, N1: 9:19.255
93 240sx SE Fastback = 96 240sx, -20% hp, N1 : 9:14.918
Both cars handled EXACTLY like there real life counterparts in my driveway. The Z was loose as balls and scary as hell to drive on the edge, and the 240 was very stable and had a slight hint of understeer which was easily corrected through driving technique. I shifted at my real life shift points. 6k for the Z and 6500 for the 240. And yes N1 because I buy my tires used at Econo for $20 each mounted and balanced. I burn them off drifting in less than 6 months, so there's no point waisting my money. Right now I've got half worn Michelin Pilots all the way round.
Why do the GT4 cars seem slower than the real ones though??
My Z can hit 130mph and the 240 can hit 5800rmp = 138mph (speedo only goes to 110 haha) ON FLAT GROUND. I get those speeds based on the calculation of tire size and gear ratio, and reading the rpm, not the speedo. In GT4 both cars were lucky to hit 125 on flat ground and hit a max speed of 136 on the downhill at the end of that LONG straight right before the finish. WTF??
84 300zx 2+2 = 83 Fairlady 300zx, -20% hp, +10% wieght, N1: 9:19.255
93 240sx SE Fastback = 96 240sx, -20% hp, N1 : 9:14.918
Both cars handled EXACTLY like there real life counterparts in my driveway. The Z was loose as balls and scary as hell to drive on the edge, and the 240 was very stable and had a slight hint of understeer which was easily corrected through driving technique. I shifted at my real life shift points. 6k for the Z and 6500 for the 240. And yes N1 because I buy my tires used at Econo for $20 each mounted and balanced. I burn them off drifting in less than 6 months, so there's no point waisting my money. Right now I've got half worn Michelin Pilots all the way round.
Why do the GT4 cars seem slower than the real ones though??
My Z can hit 130mph and the 240 can hit 5800rmp = 138mph (speedo only goes to 110 haha) ON FLAT GROUND. I get those speeds based on the calculation of tire size and gear ratio, and reading the rpm, not the speedo. In GT4 both cars were lucky to hit 125 on flat ground and hit a max speed of 136 on the downhill at the end of that LONG straight right before the finish. WTF??
- 860
niky
I could only get to 108 on that straightaway.
no, I mean on the flat parts of the straightaways the car wouldn't accelerate past 125. On the downhill parts it would slowly creep up to 136. That's the fastest either car would go in the game, even on the downhill of the LONG straight before the finish line.
My car gets to 125 easily in real life and downhill I've gotten it to 6500rpm = 153mph. I know, not safe, don't do it again blah blah blah. Whatever. It was 4am and no body was on the road and it's a 4 mile long straight at a 8% grade.....sue me. If that were GT4 the car would have gotten to maybe 140.
I just don't know why GT4 cars are so slow in compairison. I timed them to 60 and it's the same as my car, but to 100 it takes about 1.5 seconds longer. Maybe too much aero drag?? IDK.
- 1,003
maybe you're driving higher-end models in the game, and as such they have some body-effects to add some downforce? or, you decreases the power to much.
Hell though, I used a 180hp Sunfire, and it still slower high-end than my 150hp Grand-Am.
Hell though, I used a 180hp Sunfire, and it still slower high-end than my 150hp Grand-Am.
- 23,800
- Philippines
That much is true...
at the 180hp Sunfire... it can't even hold speed uphill as well as my 150hp (detuned) Protege can...
But then again, it's hard to tell how much uphill or downhill any straight on the Nurb is, in the game, and if your car can "creep up" on a certain speed, there's no assurance that the Nurb straight is long enough to let you get there.
If you want to see how fast your car will go, take it to the test track and let her rip around there.
My car (finally detuned as far as it'll go) doesn't hit its top speed till the downhill portion of the last straight, and can't do much more than 120 over the rest of the course. It'll hit 130 just fine on the test track, though.
And as a reminder... there's no assurance as to how well calibrated your speedometer is in real life. I've seen some overly optimistic ones in my time.
at the 180hp Sunfire... it can't even hold speed uphill as well as my 150hp (detuned) Protege can... But then again, it's hard to tell how much uphill or downhill any straight on the Nurb is, in the game, and if your car can "creep up" on a certain speed, there's no assurance that the Nurb straight is long enough to let you get there.
If you want to see how fast your car will go, take it to the test track and let her rip around there.
My car (finally detuned as far as it'll go) doesn't hit its top speed till the downhill portion of the last straight, and can't do much more than 120 over the rest of the course. It'll hit 130 just fine on the test track, though.
And as a reminder... there's no assurance as to how well calibrated your speedometer is in real life. I've seen some overly optimistic ones in my time.
- 860
nikyAnd as a reminder... there's no assurance as to how well calibrated your speedometer is in real life. I've seen some overly optimistic ones in my time.
That's why I don't use my speedo to find my speed......I use my tach.....My speedo is actually .4mph off per 1k rpm
Tach never lies though...And I use the formula from a text book on finding the ratio and key speed at RPM points.
Like 3k rpm = 71mph, 4k rpm = 95mph, 5.5k = 132mph, 5.8k = 138mph 6.5k = 153 (fastest I've ever gone down a EXTREMELY long, steep, straight hill)
And My car only has 160hp flywheel and 120-130 wheel.
- 860
ultrabeatWould you believe me if I told you I drove a Tank Car?
That depends.......would you believe me if I told you I could give you a special deal on the SF Bay Bridge???
Time: 8'15.282
My Car:
2006 WRX STI
Mods:
Cobb Stg 2 (380 ft/lbs, 350hp) http://www.cobbtuning.com
Mild weight reduction
GT4 Car:
2004 STI Spec C
Mods:
Port polish (just to get the HP right)
+60 Kg balast (Spec C is still lighter than me)
N3 Tires
If you're wondering why I chose the Spec C, read the Wikipedia article on the STI & go to the section about the US-Spec STI.
Edit: Updated my time, my last run was still pretty sloppy (out of practice)
My Car:
2006 WRX STI
Mods:
Cobb Stg 2 (380 ft/lbs, 350hp) http://www.cobbtuning.com
Mild weight reduction
GT4 Car:
2004 STI Spec C
Mods:
Port polish (just to get the HP right)
+60 Kg balast (Spec C is still lighter than me)
N3 Tires
If you're wondering why I chose the Spec C, read the Wikipedia article on the STI & go to the section about the US-Spec STI.
Edit: Updated my time, my last run was still pretty sloppy (out of practice)
I just did a lap with my bike in Tourist Trophy (Exactly the same game as GT4 only with motorcycles), and I got a 7:42.308. I suppose motorcycles aren't explicitly by the terms of the challenge, but they follow the spirit of it, and I felt like it, so I did. 
'05 Yamaha YZF-R6, unmodified (same exact bike in the game, down to the color, lol)
'05 Yamaha YZF-R6, unmodified (same exact bike in the game, down to the color, lol)
Not even fair! I'm gonna try my car once I can find it in the used car lot.Raptor13xI just did a lap with my bike in Tourist Trophy (Exactly the same game as GT4 only with motorcycles), and I got a 7:42.308. I suppose motorcycles aren't explicitly by the terms of the challenge, but they follow the spirit of it, and I felt like it, so I did.
'05 Yamaha YZF-R6, unmodified (same exact bike in the game, down to the color, lol)
7:53.866
Real Car and applicable mods:
1995 Toyota Supra 6sp Twin Turbo
Lightweight flywheel
High HP single-disk clutch
FMIC
Intake
Downpipe, exhaust
Boost Controller
Strut tower bar, huge sway bars.
275s in the back, 245s up front.
380HP at the wheels at low boost (15PSI)
Should make just under 500 at the crank on high boost (18-19 PSI)
In-Game Car and Mods:
1997 Toyota Supra TT 6sp Twin Turbo
Racing Exhaust
N3 tires
Stage 2 Turbo (needed for HP)
Sports IC
Sports Clutch
Semi-Racing Flywheel
Body stiffening (closest you can get to sway/strut bars)
496 HP
Real Car and applicable mods:
1995 Toyota Supra 6sp Twin Turbo
Lightweight flywheel
High HP single-disk clutch
FMIC
Intake
Downpipe, exhaust
Boost Controller
Strut tower bar, huge sway bars.
275s in the back, 245s up front.
380HP at the wheels at low boost (15PSI)
Should make just under 500 at the crank on high boost (18-19 PSI)
In-Game Car and Mods:
1997 Toyota Supra TT 6sp Twin Turbo
Racing Exhaust
N3 tires
Stage 2 Turbo (needed for HP)
Sports IC
Sports Clutch
Semi-Racing Flywheel
Body stiffening (closest you can get to sway/strut bars)
496 HP
- Status
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