Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one
- Thread starter hennessey86
- 10,511 comments
- 717,536 views
- 1,334
- UK
- voofx
We used to get it on BBC 2 years ago until BT Sport bought up the rights. I haven't seen MotoGP in years because of this.
- 5,217
- A faster Hamster from London, England!😁
- HammyMansell1980
I've created a new game!! 
Look out!!
Love it!! 👍
Look out!!
Love it!! 👍
- 5,161
- Massachusetts
I have about 8 feet between my eyes and my screen. The suckage is major.
Those GT Omega stands look pretty cool. I wonder if it would be better than the $3 piece of crap folding wooden table I currently use?
- 4,149
- Ottawa
You drive with your eyes 8 feet away from the screen? What do you mean the suckage is major?I have about 8 feet between my eyes and my screen. The suckage is major.
Those GT Omega stands look pretty cool. I wonder if it would be better than the $3 piece of crap folding wooden table I currently use?
- 5,161
- Massachusetts
I am seated in a recliner and the TV screen is mounted to the wall in front of me which happens to be about 8 feet away. It sucks.
- 1,334
- UK
- voofx
I am seated in a recliner and the TV screen is mounted to the wall in front of me which happens to be about 8 feet away. It sucks.
I remember that feeling once. Mine was up high on the wall many years ago. Didn't like it one bit.
Love it where it has been the past year or so but never got into it again until mid October. The TV is about 2ft from the ground. You can see how low and close. My eyes are centre of the TV. Still detest how little the field of view is on the console even at minimum 50. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...eels-master-list.239878/page-17#post-11655128
- 4,149
- Ottawa
- 5,161
- Massachusetts
Yeah. I have my FoV @ 40 and it really doesn't matter because it's like I'm driving from the back of a limousine. I used to have a setup where I had a 46" TV on a stand that was perfect eye level and about 3 feet away is the closest I could get my seat. But, then my living arrangements changed and now I'm stuck playing AC in my bedroom. I could move my wheel and pedals and laptop out into my living room if I wanted to, but then I'd have to put it all back into my room when I was done playing. My friend that I live with never made a big deal about it, but I know it would be kind of rude. Oh, life was so much better when I had money! 
I'll tell ya...My driving skills have suffered tremendously since I started playing in here. I thought I would get used to it. The screen is even bigger at 55"...but something in my brain doesn't like it.
Oh, life was so much better when I had money! I'll tell ya...My driving skills have suffered tremendously since I started playing in here. I thought I would get used to it. The screen is even bigger at 55"...but something in my brain doesn't like it.
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
I'm a noob to wheels, so hopefully people don't mind helping me out with some settings in game, and wheel settings in general.
If I want to do the challenges in the game and get gold etc, is it best to leave ABS and TC at factory and stability control to 0? And what about the wheel rotation itself? Do I need to change it or does each car automatically adjust (based on some research)? For the ingame wheel settings I took some off GTPlanet and they worked well! Thanks in advance
Here's a list of some tips that I've learned over time, gathered from other posts/threads.
Some of them are for Sim Racing in general, while others are specific to Assetto Corsa:
- For the console version of the game, lower the FFB value in-game to around 30~40. Default is 100 and it's arguably too high, making the wheel too heavy and making you lose perception of all the tiny forces going on (which make AC so famous) when driving the car;
- Set the wheel to its highest rotation possible (1080º). The game will then adjust the degrees of rotation for each car, in theory giving you the most authentic experience;
- In the settings menu, before driving, leave ABS and TC settings to "Factory". Not only because it is interesting to first try a car with its factory settings (and easier to learn it, too), but also because these can be switched off at anytime while actually driving;
- Set the Stability Control to 0 - let the car do its thing and just enjoy the physics;
- Even if using paddle shifters (and no clutch pedal), turn Auto-Blip OFF and do the blipping yourself instead when downshifting (with your right foot), so that the revs match the gear you're engaging. This is recommended because a) it's a lot more fun and adds another layer of immersion to the game and b) because the Auto-Blip doesn't work that well in AC - especially in older RWD cars, you'll find the rear wheels losing traction and the back snapping under braking, because the game uses too little throttle and/or completely misses the timing of the clutch engaging;
- Mod your brake pedal. Get some kind of hard foam or something, to place at the back of the brake pedal. The idea is that, near the end of its travel, you get a non-linear resistance from the pedal (the harder you brake, the stiffer the pedal gets). This will replicate much better the feeling of using a brake pedal in real life and, most importantly, will help you get a better feeling from the pedal and making it easier to avoid locking the wheels;
- In addition to the previous point, make sure to calibrate the brake pedal every time you start the game. With a mod in place, you'll want to press it very hard (compressing the foam/rubber as much as you can), so that the game recognizes 100% of travel as being the point where you're probably never get to when actually driving. Doing this already on the track, with the clutch/brake/throttle graphs showing, helps a lot. The result is much better control when braking in cars without ABS - again, especially the old, classic models.
- Set the wheel to its highest rotation possible (1080º). The game will then adjust the degrees of rotation for each car, in theory giving you the most authentic experience;
- In the settings menu, before driving, leave ABS and TC settings to "Factory". Not only because it is interesting to first try a car with its factory settings (and easier to learn it, too), but also because these can be switched off at anytime while actually driving;
- Set the Stability Control to 0 - let the car do its thing and just enjoy the physics;
- Even if using paddle shifters (and no clutch pedal), turn Auto-Blip OFF and do the blipping yourself instead when downshifting (with your right foot), so that the revs match the gear you're engaging. This is recommended because a) it's a lot more fun and adds another layer of immersion to the game and b) because the Auto-Blip doesn't work that well in AC - especially in older RWD cars, you'll find the rear wheels losing traction and the back snapping under braking, because the game uses too little throttle and/or completely misses the timing of the clutch engaging;
- Mod your brake pedal. Get some kind of hard foam or something, to place at the back of the brake pedal. The idea is that, near the end of its travel, you get a non-linear resistance from the pedal (the harder you brake, the stiffer the pedal gets). This will replicate much better the feeling of using a brake pedal in real life and, most importantly, will help you get a better feeling from the pedal and making it easier to avoid locking the wheels;
- In addition to the previous point, make sure to calibrate the brake pedal every time you start the game. With a mod in place, you'll want to press it very hard (compressing the foam/rubber as much as you can), so that the game recognizes 100% of travel as being the point where you're probably never get to when actually driving. Doing this already on the track, with the clutch/brake/throttle graphs showing, helps a lot. The result is much better control when braking in cars without ABS - again, especially the old, classic models.
That's it from me.
Enjoy the best driving experience on consoles.
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
I don't know. We are not given that information. But:
1) You have lots of road cars and classics, so the probability is high that some will be using the full 1080º;
2) Why limit to 900º or whatever? Just last night I drove the Ferrari F138 with the wheel at its normal setting (1080º) and it works perfectly. The game adapts itself (even the virtual wheel rotation). Maybe we're missing a "soft lock" option, but that's a whole different matter;
3) What happens when you decrease your wheel rotation? All cars turn to that rotation? Cars with higher rotation than the one selected will be converted to your selection, and the rest is left untouched? Or are all cars' DOR reduced by an equivalent percentage to the one you imposed (for example, to 50% if you set the wheel to 540º)?
These are the reasons why I just leave it at its full rotation.
- 4,149
- Ottawa
You need a DK2, it would fix everythingYeah. I have my FoV @ 40 and it really doesn't matter because it's like I'm driving from the back of a limousine. I used to have a setup where I had a 46" TV on a stand that was perfect eye level and about 3 feet away is the closest I could get my seat. But, then my living arrangements changed and now I'm stuck playing AC in my bedroom. I could move my wheel and pedals and laptop out into my living room if I wanted to, but then I'd have to put it all back into my room when I was done playing. My friend that I live with never made a big deal about it, but I know it would be kind of rude.
I'll tell ya...My driving skills have suffered tremendously since I started playing in here. I thought I would get used to it. The screen is even bigger at 55"...but something in my brain doesn't like it.
- 1,334
- UK
- voofx
I have this strange funny feeling I'm going to enjoy the Maserati 250F even more switching from 900 to 1080. Who knows what else it'll feel like with other cars.
Hmm... https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/how-does-the-rotation-work-t500.329781/#post-10752622
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
- 1,333
- PA
- FredzyN2
Ah, I can't agree with this one. I spent a good bit of time trying to get comfortable with blipping the 962's and I'm to where I can do it ok, but it's not enjoyable to me. Such a shame because those cars are great. I've noticed it on other cars but they're by far the worst. I really hope they fix it, I submitted a ticket with 505.On that topic I figure I'll share a tip for managing 962 downshifts: wait until a lot later than usual to start downshifting. The blips don't have to be as big and accurate, and the car is much less prone to becoming unstable when you don't get them perfect.
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
At least on the PC side, I think this is wrong. AC only deals with 900º or less so when you're setting 1080º it's creating a gap where the game is working at 900º but the wheel is working at 1080º. When I used my T300 I always used the button+d-pad trick to force my wheel to 900º and it felt much better like that. Might be different on console but since you don't have the wheel calibration screen you can't see what the max rotation is.
That's actually good advice for most cars, helps prevent the DSP from kicking in. 👍
- 1,334
- UK
- voofx
I had been reading about some saying they felt like they were turning forever on 1080.
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
Really? That's a shame. I find it really enjoyable, even when I did not have the shifter and clutch pedal.
And hey, there's no way around that in real life, so one has to agree that it's a more realistic experience. 👍
I'd like to see some information on that. Not doubting, of course. Just curious.
The good news is that having it at 1080º (on the consoles) does not harm the experience. On the contrary, even at the extreme opposite of things (F1 cars with reduced DOR), it works perfectly and matches the virtual wheel.
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
I'd like to see some information on that. Not doubting, of course. Just curious.
The good news is that having it at 1080º (on the consoles) does not harm the experience. On the contrary, even at the extreme opposite of things (F1 cars with reduced DOR), it works perfectly and matches the virtual wheel.
I'd have a hard time finding it. When I had my T300 I had a lot of issues with FFB (likely due to some gremlin in my PC) so I did a lot of research and experimenting, but that was over a year ago. I never completely fixed the problem but switching to 900º was one thing that made the FFB feel better. It could be different on consoles but it might be worth experimenting with for anyone who's not pleased with their FFB.
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
I understand.
It was actually the bit about AC only dealing with 900° that interested me the most. Please let us know if you come across that info again. 👍
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
I'm pretty sure that's right, hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong. But on PC there is a calibration wizard and one of the steps is to set your wheel at 90º so it can set the 900º point based off that position, the only way to calibrate it to 1080º is to have your wheel either well before or well after (forget which one) the 90º point, which obviously probably isn't ideal if the game thinks your wheel is at 90º when it's actually at 130º.
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
- 1,333
- PA
- FredzyN2
Yea you're right, especially for any older sequential. In theory it should be easier than a synchronized manual H-shifter but I struggle to get it all right. 15 years of driving stick, I guess the muscle memory just doesn't like it.
Ha, I remember playing Ridge Racer Revolution on PSX with some $30 Mad Catz no FFB springy-wheel. I was actually fast with it once I figured out the right way to use it was to steer with a light touch of the index finger on the center hub of the wheel, rotating 20 or 30 degrees max
