Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one
- Thread starter hennessey86
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- Quebec
- atomichatchet
Sometimes I really like digging through the comment section 
I've been wanting a wheelstand that is not too big and relatively cheap for a while now. Thanks to you guys I read about gt omega and I've just purshased one 
can't wait to try it out!! I've been using a stand made of pvc pipes, a lot of tape and some bricks to help it keep sturdy 
I won't be shy to show my gaming set up from now on!
I've been wanting a wheelstand that is not too big and relatively cheap for a while now. Thanks to you guys I read about gt omega and I've just purshased one can't wait to try it out!! I've been using a stand made of pvc pipes, a lot of tape and some bricks to help it keep sturdy I won't be shy to show my gaming set up from now on!
- 214
Thanks a lot for all of this. I really really appreciate it! I think my stand will be here on Monday! So excited!!!Here's a list of some tips that I've learned over time, gathered from other posts/threads.
Some of them are for Sim Racing in general, while others are specific to Assetto Corsa:
- For the console version of the game, lower the FFB value in-game to around 30~40. Default is 100 and it's arguably too high, making the wheel too heavy and making you lose perception of all the tiny forces going on (which make AC so famous) when driving the car;
- already did this one with the help of some forum surfing
- Set the wheel to its highest rotation possible (1080º). The game will then adjust the degrees of rotation for each car, in theory giving you the most authentic experience;
- I never adjusted the wheel rotation since I got it, but will for sure now!
- In the settings menu, before driving, leave ABS and TC settings to "Factory". Not only because it is interesting to first try a car with its factory settings (and easier to learn it, too), but also because these can be switched off at anytime while actually driving;
- did all of these as well after a few runs with random settings
- Set the Stability Control to 0 - let the car do its thing and just enjoy the physics;
- one of the last things I changed too!
- Even if using paddle shifters (and no clutch pedal), turn Auto-Blip OFF and do the blipping yourself instead when downshifting (with your right foot), so that the revs match the gear you're engaging. This is recommended because a) it's a lot more fun and adds another layer of immersion to the game and b) because the Auto-Blip doesn't work that well in AC - especially in older RWD cars, you'll find the rear wheels losing traction and the back snapping under braking, because the game uses too little throttle and/or completely misses the timing of the clutch engaging;
- I don't know if it's something else but I feel that I noticed this as well. I haven't raced with auto blip off yet, just cuz I wanted to get more comfy and wait for my wheel stand. I haven't used the wheel for over a week cuz I wanted to get my stand first!
- Mod your brake pedal. Get some kind of hard foam or something, to place at the back of the brake pedal. The idea is that, near the end of its travel, you get a non-linear resistance from the pedal (the harder you brake, the stiffer the pedal gets). This will replicate much better the feeling of using a brake pedal in real life and, most importantly, will help you get a better feeling from the pedal and making it easier to avoid locking the wheels;
- I researched this quite a bit! I have a few simple solutions ready, but I haven't done anything yet cuz once again I wanted to wait for my stand. I had the T3PA pro pedals for a bit and the brake was more resistant and as we all know the t300 pedals brakes just don't have that resistance at all. So I'm gunna make sure to make a change here.
- In addition to the previous point, make sure to calibrate the brake pedal every time you start the game. With a mod in place, you'll want to press it very hard (compressing the foam/rubber as much as you can), so that the game recognizes 100% of travel as being the point where you're probably never get to when actually driving. Doing this already on the track, with the clutch/brake/throttle graphs showing, helps a lot. The result is much better control when braking in cars without ABS - again, especially the old, classic models.
- Do I have to do anything special to calibrate the pedals? I know you said to press the brake really hard, but when do I do that exactly? Before I start the game? After I start the game? I noticed you said to do it in game when I can see the response graphs/bars. So i'm guessing just don't touch the pedals until I can see those things and then press the pedals to maximum capacity and they'll calibrate?
That's it from me.
Enjoy the best driving experience on consoles.
I added in a few comments and a few more questions IF you don't mind :$ Thanks again. Really appreciate it!
mister dog
(Banned)
- 8,396
- Spain
- misterdog
- misterdog7
How's the long term usage of a GT Omega? Sturdy enough to last several years? I've had my Wheelstandpro now since 2013 I think, and it is starting to bend a bit so that it doesn't stand totally flat on the floor anymore.
I have to put a children's book under the front right side so it doesn't move up and down
I have to put a children's book under the front right side so it doesn't move up and down
Has anyone managed to get anywhere near Bellof's 6:11 around the Nordschleife?
I've managed a 6:47 with a high downforce setup, soft tyres, low fuel and decent gearing and haven't seen anything on YouTube that beats this time on PS4. It's certainly beatable but I can't imagine I'm leaving 30 seconds on the table.
You have to remember this is the 962C as well which should be quicker than the older 956 used in real life.
I've managed a 6:47 with a high downforce setup, soft tyres, low fuel and decent gearing and haven't seen anything on YouTube that beats this time on PS4. It's certainly beatable but I can't imagine I'm leaving 30 seconds on the table.
You have to remember this is the 962C as well which should be quicker than the older 956 used in real life.
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
If it was using an older car (road or race), that was probably it, yes. RUF Yellowbird, Ferrari F40, Lotus 72D... these are all examples of cars you'll have a hard time braking/downshifting on the limit.
From what I understand, as soon as the PS4 turns on and the wheel calibrates itself, you can start doing it - even before entering the game. There's nothing special about it.
I only mentioned the graph in the game because that way you can control the calibration better and check if your normal pedal pressure is not near the 100% force.
- 1,913
- valencia
- Donnced
That is just what happens to me.
Pre 1.09 Update i always have put my wheel at 900 degrees and visual wheel rotation option set in "no".
The auto DoR system like that maked the visual wheel rotation going 1=1 with my wheel and there was the soft lock also.
Now if i put my wheel in 900 degrees in 1.10 and 1.11 Update on cars like the "moby dick" the visual wheel rotation don't go 1=1 with my wheel and the soft lock is gone.
I have to put my wheel now in 1080 degrees always to have 1=1 with the visual wheel rotation.
But i also have weaker FFB feeling and the center of the wheel laking some force like a huge deadzone in some cars..
So for me the DOR issue isn't good fixed.
I liked lot more the FFB and how my wheel was working in 1.03 update and below.
Hopefully they add a min. Force option and specific FFB gain per car as in the PC version.
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
How's the long term usage of a GT Omega? Sturdy enough to last several years? I've had my Wheelstandpro now since 2013 I think, and it is starting to bend a bit so that it doesn't stand totally flat on the floor anymore.
I have to put a children's book under the front right side so it doesn't move up and down
Not sure if the same thing I had.. but when I moved about 2 years ago I tweaked the stand. So I took the pedals off and I was able to straiten it back out.
Loosen the bolts that hold the black tube that is also the front feet and pedal stop (attached image front.jpg). Then on the bottom rear of the stand there are two large bolts that hold the bottom legs on (attached image back.jpg) - loosen them as well.
Then Stand on it so it all is flat and tighten them all down little by little moving from one to the next until they are all tight. Do not tighten one all the way down then move to the next one, tighten them each a little bit. That should keep it flat.
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mister dog
(Banned)
- 8,396
- Spain
- misterdog
- misterdog7
Thanks 👍
Must check that out.
- 1,913
- valencia
- Donnced
Because during the 1.09 Update i erased the game and went back to 1.0.
So that is why i notice quite the difference between 1.10 - 1.11 (1.11 didn't do anything new in FFB, it's the same as the 1.10).
The only problem in 1.0 was suffering the screen tearing..... But,the virtual wheel matched more 1=1 as now also..
It had less input lag than now.
Which is normal, cause to get rid of the screen tearing they include the "triple buffer".
Hopefully in the 1.12 update the FFB levels and the DoR system get completely fixed again..
But even with that, i should agree a lot the min. Force FFB option and general FFB gain per car implanted also.
- 1,913
- valencia
- Donnced
Could be...i don't know, but it's quite casual that it changed since the famous DOR issues.
I didn't got so much deadzone in the middle of the wheel in some cars like now also..
But yes, there's been a quite improvement in physics, Tyre models and the track and ambient temperature fixes... So could be influencing the FFB.
Let's see and wait to the next update if they improve it and add the min force setting option that is quite requested in the official support forums..
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
I have to put a children's book under the front right side so it doesn't move up and down
This one?
mister dog
(Banned)
- 8,396
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- misterdog
- misterdog7
- 1,333
- PA
- FredzyN2
I was thinking about this and decided to spend a little more time with the 962's last night. I eventually got pretty comfortable, I'll say I can enjoy it now. Thanks for the encouragement!
I was over-thinking it before. For up-shifts, I start tapping the paddle simultaneously with lifting off acc. which feels more natural and has smoother results. This sounds obvious, but I had been lifting acc. then tapping the paddle after slight pause to varied results and it seemed like the right thing to do. Downshifting - paddle tap and throttle blip are 100% simultaneous, which I did before but I'm a lot more consistent now. The key there was brake pedal modulation, which took a bit of practice. There's no way I would have stuck with it if I hadn't done the brake pedal mod. Heel-toeing in a car without ABS and without a pedal mod would be a nightmare.
Meanwhile, for all of my crying about never getting a chance to play, Sony says I played 50 hours of AC in 2016
PCars and Dirt Rally are the only other games I played, and are in the single digits 
- 7,837
- Leiria
- jpfctf
- jpfctf
- 1,913
- valencia
- Donnced
One that give me a deadzone entering bends is the new Maserati GTMC GT4
Others i will have a look again and make a list.
It seems also wheel realeted, cause the G29 is the one that more deadzone has and then the T150, less,but have some..
G29 is full helicoidal FFB system, and are wheels that always get some deadzone.
The T150 is an mixture of helicoidal system and the belt system, its more silent and has less deadzone..
In project C.A.R.S I've got some deadzone also,but you can improve it with the amount off FFB settings.
In Assetto, pre 1.09 it was quite perfect, but now some cars do have deadzone.
The T300/T500 with the full belt FFB system doesn't have practically deadzone.
Didn't see anyone with a T300 /T500!report lack of feeling / deadzone on the support forum till now either.
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
- 1,913
- valencia
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Nope, we haven't, but the min. Force FFB option is being quite requested the Last to updates in the console support forums together with personalised button mapping..
Sooo let's hope that Kunos implent the option.
Like you are saying, it would help a lot with deadzones.
And a general FFB gain per car option should also be very welcome...
So cars that FFB isn't strong enough can be increased.
- 28,470
- Windsor, Ontario, Canada
- Johnnypenso
Min. Force won't help you with a mechanical deadzone as in the G series wheels. It only helps to ensure that small FFB signals that are normally not felt through your wheel, are given enough gain to be felt.
- 1,333
- PA
- FredzyN2
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
So .. what does this mean? Any Italian speakers / readers here?
Kunos is being bought out?
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ing-bought-by-digital-bros.42196/#post-826606
Kunos is being bought out?
http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/i...ing-bought-by-digital-bros.42196/#post-826606
- 12,018
- Indianapolis
- BrandonW77
Seems to be the case.
