CREDIT GRIND - WTC 600 Tokyo Express - Glitches are Dead.

  • Thread starter Grimm6Jack
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the FASTEST credit grind is not always the BEST grind, and I am no real hurry to hit 100,000,000 credits
I will get there eventually, I prefer to have some FUN while grinding credits, using multiple car and track combos
and have been waiting for the Alpine 220 to show up in the legend dealer again so I could try it
nobody's trying to tell you how to have fun. play whatever races you want. but the definitive, factual answer to the question of "what's the fastest way to make money" is (currently) tomahawk on tokyo.
 
I have reset the Alpine 220 to the default settings, so there is nothing to show
but I have copied the settings EXACTLY as you have in the pic on your post, NO changes at all
multiple times and always get the same result, as I have said this is using a NEW Alpine 220 from the legend dealer, NOT an older one, not sure if that matters,

ALSO you do NOT show every setting in your post, only the first page on the left, not the other settings on the right, so I am not sure if you have any changes there, I did NOT change ANYTHING on the second or left side of the setup page, it is all stock, NO changes or upgrades

the FASTEST credit grind is not always the BEST grind, and I am no real hurry to hit 100,000,000 credits
I will get there eventually, I prefer to have some FUN while grinding credits, using multiple car and track combos
and have been waiting for the Alpine 220 to show up in the legend dealer again so I could try it
This is the original post I referred to:
"Copy tune as pic below.
Purchase Racing Crankshaft, Medium RPM Turbo and Racing Intercooler only."


As I suspected, you didn't purchase ANY of the mods(above), hence why your tune did not work.
When someone posts a tune, you HAVE TO DO EXACTLY in said tune for it to work.
 
This is the original post I referred to:
"Copy tune as pic below.
Purchase Racing Crankshaft, Medium RPM Turbo and Racing Intercooler only."


As I suspected, you didn't purchase ANY of the mods(above), hence why your tune did not work.
When someone posts a tune, you HAVE TO DO EXACTLY in said tune for it to work.
you never said what parts to purchase EXCEPT RM tires and trans as shown in the pic of your tune
and you neglected to show the second page of the tune with those parts installed
so I did follow your instructions EXACTLY to the letter as you had it listed
in fact you said NOT to fit any other parts

I will try with the other bits fitted
 
you never said what parts to purchase EXCEPT RM tires and trans as shown in the pic of your tune
and you neglected to show the second page of the tune with those parts installed
so I did follow your instructions EXACTLY to the letter as you had it listed
in fact you said NOT to fit any other parts

I will try with the other bits fitted
not his fault you can't read. somehow literally everyone else got the memo.
 
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nobody's trying to tell you how to have fun. play whatever races you want. but the definitive, factual answer to the question of "what's the fastest way to make money" is (currently) tomahawk on tokyo.
never asked the fastest way to make money
don't care, $825,000 every 1/2 hour is plenty
or a bit less on Sardegna is fine
fast is good, but FUN is better
 
SO, after almost 2 month I played GT7 and did right away the TOKYO(Glitch) with the Tomahawk 561 PP adjustment.
My first race was a catastrophe i finished 2nd :ouch::lol:
Then i get used to it BUT i couldnt win like i was doing before with 3 Laps ahead or so.
I was winning with ''only'' 1 lap ahead but doesnt matter i could make still the money...;)
 
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SO, after almost 2 month I played GT7 and did right away the TOKYO(Glitch) with the Tomahawk 561 PP adjustment.
My first race was a catastrophe i finished 2nd :ouch::lol:
Then i get used to it BUT i couldnt win like i was doing before with 3 Laps ahead or so.
I was winning with ''only'' 1 lap ahead but doesnt matter i could make still the money..
Just take it easy driving that thing. You'll get used to it.

Be more concerned with trying not to hit anything more than being fast.
 

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Hi,
I also had the problem, that when I put in all data to the setup - I ended somewhere around 730 PPs. I was a bit angry and copied the setup to a new sheet - and that solved my problem. So try a new sheet ;) try coping it. What ever the game does there ... Finally it worked.

The key to fast races is - use manual gears (then you don't need to refuel and only need one set of new tires) because you can avoid massive tire wear, when tires have no grip and just make noise:D I shift directly into 5ths gear after start - go up to position 3 then shift into 7th and pass to the end of the main straight. Brake and go to 6th for the double turn. Then directly 7th and at about 325kph through every turn (I use very less brakes - mostly let the air do it's job) brake an go to 6th when passing the bridge at about 200+ (in a good lap I can also be at 220, but this is based on the cars position). Then I am in 6th until I pass the last corner before the hairpin, where I go again to 7ths. The Hairpin is my nemesis - I go to 3rd and between 45 and 55 around it - when the car just stabilizes itself - I go to 5th gear and accelerate very carefully. At about 125 I go to 6th and 7th (the dryer the trwckz, the longer I use 6th). If you stop accelerating at 490 kph- 505 kph the car is stable, above 505 kph it directly twists like a mad cow. I think that then the downforce kills the tire geometry and tires do what ever they want.

My best lap was a 1:27.5, I can go quite often 1:30s-1:32s. I can get 19:30 - 20:30 minute races regularly. But - the AI and the brittle damage model regularly cause penalties - I think if you can avoid any damage and any penalties, that 18:30 Minute races are definitely possible for most drivers, when you are used to the special driving style the Tomo needs to be fast.

Oh - before I forget it ... I use the 498pp setup from Naffaintait ...

BR K.
 
And even automatic Transmission is not that bad when you get used to it. I am by no means a great driver on my Dualsense but after about 20 runs in the newly glitched Tomahawk i got some 19 minute races and a best lap of 1:23 with AT and TC3, FM6 all the way becaus with AT you have to coast a little to get 12 laps without pitting.
 
That guy is totally wrong. The order you do things in doesn’t matter. You’re missing some upgrade or some setting.
LOL you don’t upgrade the tomahawk, what? Even the video they mentioned to do it last 🤷🤷🤷🤷 did he get the right tomahawk though? 🤭
 
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LOL you don’t upgrade the tomahawk, what? Even the video they mentioned to do it last 🤷🤷🤷🤷 did he get the right tomahawk though? 🤭

You’re just plain wrong bub. The order you set things in doesn’t matter at all. Don’t spread unhelpful misinformation.
 
At about 125 I go to 6th and 7th (the dryer the If you stop accelerating at 490 kph- 505 kph the car is stable, above 505 kph it directly twists like a mad cow. I think that then the downforce kills the tire geometry and tires do what ever they want.
I am the only one with a stable car at higher speed?
I really don’t know what I have changed making my car stable. Maybe playing with a wheel helps.
Edit : yes impossible to drive with a joypad 🤣 no magic behind. Thanks T300RS.
 
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I am the only one with a stable car at higher speed?
I really don’t know what I have changed making my car stable. Maybe playing with a wheel helps.
Edit : yes impossible to drive with a joypad 🤣 no magic behind. Thanks T300RS.
Mystery solved! I gotta admit i was trying everything, every possible LSD and assist setting. Nothing helped. With a controller, it just randomly spins out over 290 mph no matter what you do.
 
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I am the only one with a stable car at higher speed?
I really don’t know what I have changed making my car stable. Maybe playing with a wheel helps.
Edit : yes impossible to drive with a joypad 🤣 no magic behind. Thanks T300RS.
Is it that easier to keep the car stable with a wheel? If so then wheel users can definitely be faster then. As I told you, getting between 480-500 and above is just madness (with controller). The steering inputs of the controller are just not as good/precise.
 
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In the straight definitively yes. As I said, full throttle all along the straight line and no difficulty at all. Except when this *****g V.Gallo decide to move suddenly to your racing line while being lapped for the 3rd time. At 530 kmh, this leads to a 15 seconds penalty.
 
Is it that easier to keep the car stable with a wheel? If so then wheel users can definitely be faster then. As I told you, getting between 480-500 and above is just madness (with controller). The steering inputs of the controller are just not as good/precise.
EDIT - Be warned, lots of rambling on my part below lol

I've had to adjust how I use the steering joystick (and maybe I'm just an idiot lol) for the long main straight compared to, I guess, how I always use it. Meaning I've always just pushed and held it "up" to go straight as I find it easier to be more precise lining up my next turn - versus letting the joystick neutral and no input when driving on the straight. I have no idea if this makes any sense lol

I was struggling keeping it settled down the straight and definitely knew I was doing something wrong after I watched your video (knowing you're controller too). I knew that steering input when going 240+ MPH was risky, so I tried to line it up and just "let go" of the joystick and learned I was good until like 280-290.

As I'm writing this, I'm wondering now, if the way I steer with the joystick is "normal" or odd. Best I can think of describing what I mean is I use the joystick as a flat 360-degree circular-plane with it always "pointed" in some direction between 270-Deg & 90-Deg, regardless of it being driving in a straight line or turning. Oh well, I'm at a loss for putting into words what I'm rambling on-about. LOL I'll just "test" my hypothesis later because this could be a whole lotta hoopla and sorry for your time
 
EDIT - Be warned, lots of rambling on my part below lol

I've had to adjust how I use the steering joystick (and maybe I'm just an idiot lol) for the long main straight compared to, I guess, how I always use it. Meaning I've always just pushed and held it "up" to go straight as I find it easier to be more precise lining up my next turn - versus letting the joystick neutral and no input when driving on the straight. I have no idea if this makes any sense lol

I was struggling keeping it settled down the straight and definitely knew I was doing something wrong after I watched your video (knowing you're controller too). I knew that steering input when going 240+ MPH was risky, so I tried to line it up and just "let go" of the joystick and learned I was good until like 280-290.

As I'm writing this, I'm wondering now, if the way I steer with the joystick is "normal" or odd. Best I can think of describing what I mean is I use the joystick as a flat 360-degree circular-plane with it always "pointed" in some direction between 270-Deg & 90-Deg, regardless of it being driving in a straight line or turning. Oh well, I'm at a loss for putting into words what I'm rambling on-about. LOL I'll just "test" my hypothesis later because this could be a whole lotta hoopla and sorry for your time
Well, that's an issue that really depends on you and on each person individually.

I personally have been using the left joystick for steering ever since the PS2 era with GT2 and then later GT3, this is over 20 years now. And, probably like most people use it, I leave it untouched when going straight (in the center) and directly turn it right or left when I need to. I actually know very few people who use it the way you do, and it can work for sure, totally depends on how used to it you are (and of course, your own skill).
From GT4 until this day I use the right joystick for throttle/brake and the R2/L2 for shifts. I pretty much can't use the "left foot brake" technique (brake and throttle at the same time) because of this, but it really doesn't make a significant difference whatsoever, and I find it a lot more precise to adjust my braking and throttle inputs with the right joystick instead of the R2/L2.


240mph is like 400kph, you can definitely go way over that, you can settle at 450+, about 470-480 is the sweet spot and instead of full throttle, just make it 90-95% throttle (see my video for reference). But of course, even at those speeds you can still crash if you even put more than 1% needed steering input while going straight, I myself had a few heart attacks and had to brake a lot or lift completely to settle it.
 
Well, that's an issue that really depends on you and on each person individually.

I personally have been using the left joystick for steering ever since the PS2 era with GT2 and then later GT3, this is over 20 years now. And, probably like most people use it, I leave it untouched when going straight (in the center) and directly turn it right or left when I need to. I actually know very few people who use it the way you do, and it can work for sure, totally depends on how used to it you are (and of course, your own skill).
From GT4 until this day I use the right joystick for throttle/brake and the R2/L2 for shifts. I pretty much can't use the "left foot brake" technique (brake and throttle at the same time) because of this, but it really doesn't make a significant difference whatsoever, and I find it a lot more precise to adjust my braking and throttle inputs with the right joystick instead of the R2/L2.


240mph is like 400kph, you can definitely go way over that, you can settle at 450+, about 470-480 is the sweet spot and instead of full throttle, just make it 90-95% throttle (see my video for reference). But of course, even at those speeds you can still crash if you even put more than 1% needed steering input while going straight, I myself had a few heart attacks and had to brake a lot or lift completely to settle it.
Time to see if I can try that out!

Edit: Guess I shouldn't find it surprising that unlearning something isn't easy lol. If it's a longer straight section I'm all good - much much more stable at high speeds now. But is the middle portion, going to fast and am lacking "touch" to the degree I need to press the joystick left/right. I'm going to work to change the muscle-memory because this logically makes sense at being "faster" on average.
 
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