Custom VisionRacer VR3. D-box motion, Dual TH8s, Triple projection.
- Thread starter Mayaman
- 512 comments
- 82,475 views
I know - your simulator is awesome and no simulator is perfect even if you spend $100K+ (don't we wish). When someone comes along to buy a motion simulator the first thing that concerns them is that the wheel needs to move in relation to the seat and it doesn't have to. Moving structure (wheel, seat, etc.) can actually add benefit to simulations where the car tires leave the track or vertical anomalies in a track. For racing where the horizontal plane is stable, like a F1 car rounding a hairpin, a 2 DOF simulator with a stationary wheel is great. G-force is simulated well as awkward as the moving seat may seem.
Everyone has their preferences. One guy on here likes having vibrators all over his body :-).
Mayaman
Premium
- 2,224
Yeah I get your point and also at no point have I said my simulator is the best or the most awesome. I'm humble about my things. Again if you go through the thread you'll see several veiled insults. That's my beef. They've been highlighted by other users as well. No beef with you. 
- 1,011
- UK
- the_greeze
Mayaman, regarding your framework being welded; what was the reason for that? Extra stiffness? How was it connected previously? Grub screws? Has it ruined all that nice chromework? Just curious...
I have that exact welding visor too lol
I have that exact welding visor too lol
Mayaman
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- 2,224
The VR3 is an excellent chassis, and the driving position to me is perfect. The VR3 was also designed many years ago. For an age where normal people can afford motion it isn't suitable in its current guise without strengthening. Hence why visionracer sells the under tray for dbox.
I also noted that people complain about the center bar which is needed to keep the VR3 steering column from flexing. It flexes because the connectors are all plastic and have a certain give to them. Now most people won't care but I wanted to delete the center post and make the rig as rigid as possible. I replaced all six plastic joints with heavy gauge steel and the rig now feels like a solid piece of steel. It doesn't detract from the beauty, you have to make sure your welder is good.
Now I can run dbox and not worry about any movement at all.
I want to make it clear that the VR3 in its normal state is a solid rig, but you must keep the center bar. Not a big deal really. But since I'm an extreme hobbyist only the full nine yards will do for me lol. Again, I've owned a ton of rigs over the years and the VR3 driving position is just perfect. It's why I love the rig besides the looks.
I also noted that people complain about the center bar which is needed to keep the VR3 steering column from flexing. It flexes because the connectors are all plastic and have a certain give to them. Now most people won't care but I wanted to delete the center post and make the rig as rigid as possible. I replaced all six plastic joints with heavy gauge steel and the rig now feels like a solid piece of steel. It doesn't detract from the beauty, you have to make sure your welder is good.
Now I can run dbox and not worry about any movement at all.
I want to make it clear that the VR3 in its normal state is a solid rig, but you must keep the center bar. Not a big deal really. But since I'm an extreme hobbyist only the full nine yards will do for me lol. Again, I've owned a ton of rigs over the years and the VR3 driving position is just perfect. It's why I love the rig besides the looks.
- 681
- Hampshire
+1 from me for getting this thread back on track 
I'm still pondering some kind of motion (probably gonna go 2dof with a simxperience starter kit to get me going) but no matter which way you look at it...your rig is awesome mate
I keep popping back to see how things are going
I'm still pondering some kind of motion (probably gonna go 2dof with a simxperience starter kit to get me going) but no matter which way you look at it...your rig is awesome mate
I keep popping back to see how things are going
- 7
- singapore
If he doesn't weld the VR3 now, the rig will fall apart within one year. Even with the all these done, he still need to tighten any bolts/nuts connection in every 3 months. Imagine the each actuator is capable to hold 250 lbs and move 35mm at upto 100 times per minute.
With these 3 parameters put together, it must a force. How much force ? Just one example, if I raced in the oval for 1 hours in Nascar (Truck) in Iracing, the whole rig rotated about 5 degree to the left. I know that alot of people don't believe it but it true. I can only resolve this by putting a set of machinery floor mat that can hold upto 2 mt.
Mayaman, dont forget about the mounting points for the seat belt (4 points). When you got the seat on, tune it up and tell us more.
Hwangm, you are right about Iracing. I still trying to look for a good rally simulation that is closed to Iracing. I am looking forward to meet him at the Iracing track lol ..
With these 3 parameters put together, it must a force. How much force ? Just one example, if I raced in the oval for 1 hours in Nascar (Truck) in Iracing, the whole rig rotated about 5 degree to the left. I know that alot of people don't believe it but it true. I can only resolve this by putting a set of machinery floor mat that can hold upto 2 mt.
Mayaman, dont forget about the mounting points for the seat belt (4 points). When you got the seat on, tune it up and tell us more.
Hwangm, you are right about Iracing. I still trying to look for a good rally simulation that is closed to Iracing. I am looking forward to meet him at the Iracing track lol ..
- 610
- New Zealand
- hollidog
- Hollidog
Mayaman, I have a question. You say you track raced cars like your 911, how does the dbox compare in simulating g-forces? I would imagine it would be difficult for something that only moves such a small amount (35mm, is that correct?) to accurately simulate anything over 1.5g - 2g. Is this something that is noticeable, or is that not the point of the dbox? Is it more to simulate the feeling in the seat of the pants when traction is lost, and to make bumps and curbs more noticeable?
Mayaman
Premium
- 2,224
Correct, the two inches of travel is deceiving as there is the speed and ferocity of the movement as well as several layers of tactile. It's obviously not 1:1 nothing is, but your brain takes over quite easily.
Like I said before, your BRAIN is a sim racers best peripheral. If you're going to be super skeptic guy about any simulator, none of them are going to do their job. You have to have the ability to suspend disbelief. Some can, some can't.
Like I said before, your BRAIN is a sim racers best peripheral. If you're going to be super skeptic guy about any simulator, none of them are going to do their job. You have to have the ability to suspend disbelief. Some can, some can't.
- 610
- New Zealand
- hollidog
- Hollidog
So how does it handle corners where there is a large amount of g loading for a sustained period, for example turn 8 at turkey?
I have seen those other simulators which have the very large actuators, do you think bigger would be better, or would more be more ideal?
I have seen those other simulators which have the very large actuators, do you think bigger would be better, or would more be more ideal?
Mayaman
Premium
- 2,224
Initially for every corner you have varying degree of actuator movement and velocity of movement to simulate Gs and road surface. The majority of the sensation though is definitely tactile rumble of varying strength and duration which really sells it. I can't comment on the large actuator sims with huge travel. But even with motion there has to be some sort of tactile or the effect will fall flat. The Dbox is excellent at conveying road surface, engine rumble, and things like transmission clack. Hope this answers your question.
Mayaman
Premium
- 2,224
Little teaser of some new mods and things to come. Can't show the screen mount yet.
Custom TH8 handbrake with custom leather boot and aluminum handle.
Custom short shift plate for six speeds matching the Fanatec shifter.
Adapted the Fanatec shifter, which IMO is the best shifter knob I've held ever to the TH8. Matches great.
My custom mount for my button box. Made by Marcus. Thanks Marcus!!!
This works beautifully, so comfortable and looks great.
Made a custom mount for the Fanatec Sequential to match the knob on the TH8. Really solid using the X-CPO mount on the Fanatec aluminum bar for the table clamp. It worked out perfectly since the holes for the both the wheel and the clamp are identical.
I have matching custom leather boots for all three, the handbrake, sequential and H pattern. You can see a couple of them in the pic. They haven't been attached final, they're just placed there for the pic, they will fit much better once I'm done putting the rig back together. The handbrake feels great, I used the brake spring from a set of G27 pedals in a push mode instead of pull and used the core of a rubber ball inside the sprint, it feels almost like a real handbrake as far as pressure.
The short shift plate for the TH8 is just fantastic and can be flipped so reverse is on the other side. It gives nice short snick snick shift, with lots of positive feedback. The Fanatec shifter knob is just fanstastic. You may not like the CSR body, but the shifter is the best one I've ever used, ever. And it looks fantastic with the TH8.
Hope you guys enjoy and I've got a couple other mods down the pipeline. Keep experimenting.
Custom TH8 handbrake with custom leather boot and aluminum handle.
Custom short shift plate for six speeds matching the Fanatec shifter.
Adapted the Fanatec shifter, which IMO is the best shifter knob I've held ever to the TH8. Matches great.
My custom mount for my button box. Made by Marcus. Thanks Marcus!!!
This works beautifully, so comfortable and looks great.
Made a custom mount for the Fanatec Sequential to match the knob on the TH8. Really solid using the X-CPO mount on the Fanatec aluminum bar for the table clamp. It worked out perfectly since the holes for the both the wheel and the clamp are identical.
I have matching custom leather boots for all three, the handbrake, sequential and H pattern. You can see a couple of them in the pic. They haven't been attached final, they're just placed there for the pic, they will fit much better once I'm done putting the rig back together. The handbrake feels great, I used the brake spring from a set of G27 pedals in a push mode instead of pull and used the core of a rubber ball inside the sprint, it feels almost like a real handbrake as far as pressure.
The short shift plate for the TH8 is just fantastic and can be flipped so reverse is on the other side. It gives nice short snick snick shift, with lots of positive feedback. The Fanatec shifter knob is just fanstastic. You may not like the CSR body, but the shifter is the best one I've ever used, ever. And it looks fantastic with the TH8.
Hope you guys enjoy and I've got a couple other mods down the pipeline. Keep experimenting.
- 681
- Hampshire
Amazing mate, it really is a work of art 👍
swiftwilly
Premium
- 1,506
- swiftwilly
is that a derek button box?
swiftwilly
Premium
- 1,506
- swiftwilly
- 963
- Toronto, Canada
- times_fade
So fresh and so clean!! Wonderful work and I'm looking forward to the whole picture... widescreen style!
itrdc5
Premium
- 190
- Melbourne
Hi Mayaman, I just stuck two pieces of aluminium to my handbrake plate to hold the compression spring in place. Is this what you mean?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9VMZHPJrKs
It feels good as the spring is more substantial than the little extension one I had before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maqF7idmNT8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0v66AlgwnkU
- 7
- singapore
Wow ..... the best modified setup that I seen so far. I just can't wait to see the whole setup to work with your new 4 actuators system and projection screen. Indeed, I learn alot reading your tread.
- 1,326
- SC
alanchan2002
I hear Michellin is looking for good people who "read tread"
hehe
Mayaman
Premium
- 2,224
update 3/31/12
Hello VR3 owners looking to delete your center support.
Been experimenting with the center support delete. Tried many different things. When I had the triple screen attached to the rig I didn't have to worry about it, since the triple screen was so solid and attached to the rig, there was no need for the center support. But since moving ot Dbox and detaching the triple screens from the rig and attaching them to the floor, I've looked for another solution.
I've tried about 6 different solutions and have come up with one that I think is the best. Ridiculously solid and stays with the form of the rig. I crafted these from 1" steel pipe and used a manual hand bender to get the curves. When you do something like this measure, measure, and measure again. Then measure again and check your angles. I went through 5 pairs before I came up with a set that was perfect.
The attach to the bottom of the wheel deck, curve around your legs and attach again down on the chassis. No flex at all horizontally or vertically. this is my final design for this particular mod. For those who wish to replicate it, the pipe must be 31 inches in length. Any diameter pipe can be used I guess if you have the equipment, but 1" pipe IMO looks best. Not to obtrusive yet super strong and light. Here are a couple of pics after painting. Matches the VR3 finish really closely. I'll be installing these tomorrow. Once my 50" screens arrive I'll take some more pics.
Now if only someone can get me a deal on two Dbox actuators!!! Grrrrrrrrrr.
Hello VR3 owners looking to delete your center support.
Been experimenting with the center support delete. Tried many different things. When I had the triple screen attached to the rig I didn't have to worry about it, since the triple screen was so solid and attached to the rig, there was no need for the center support. But since moving ot Dbox and detaching the triple screens from the rig and attaching them to the floor, I've looked for another solution.
I've tried about 6 different solutions and have come up with one that I think is the best. Ridiculously solid and stays with the form of the rig. I crafted these from 1" steel pipe and used a manual hand bender to get the curves. When you do something like this measure, measure, and measure again. Then measure again and check your angles. I went through 5 pairs before I came up with a set that was perfect.
The attach to the bottom of the wheel deck, curve around your legs and attach again down on the chassis. No flex at all horizontally or vertically. this is my final design for this particular mod. For those who wish to replicate it, the pipe must be 31 inches in length. Any diameter pipe can be used I guess if you have the equipment, but 1" pipe IMO looks best. Not to obtrusive yet super strong and light. Here are a couple of pics after painting. Matches the VR3 finish really closely. I'll be installing these tomorrow. Once my 50" screens arrive I'll take some more pics.
Now if only someone can get me a deal on two Dbox actuators!!! Grrrrrrrrrr.
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