Derek Speare Designs - Button Boxes - Shifters - Great Gear

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I'm tempted to buy one of your sequential shifters that I have heard is really good quality and worth the money... but first I need some money :lol:

Also I think a handbreake (ebrake) would be a great idea. As a member of the racing and drifting community I think it would come in handy and sell well, especially to drifters and as Cliffo said rallying

Derek, you make a handbrake that has the same dimensions as the sequential, that could be mounted next to.... :drool:

Make a connector with an adapter to the clubsports and I would be in heaven. Please make this happen. Hell, I would even pre-pay.
 
I'm tempted to buy one of your sequential shifters that I have heard is really good quality and worth the money... but first I need some money :lol:

Also I think a handbreake (ebrake) would be a great idea. As a member of the racing and drifting community I think it would come in handy and sell well, especially to drifters and as Cliffo said rallying

Hey Derek, I'm sure you've been asked this question before:dopey:

Have you ever thought to design a handbrake for rally sims?

A guy can make a really nice one for under 200:

I recommend one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320809167132?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

$(KGrHqN,!hcE8mPMNCQqBPhJu808wg~~60_1.JPG


One of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-tr...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a700f5456

And one of these:

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/Circuits---Load-Cell-Amps.html

The total is about 200 USD for all of the parts.

d
 

Hey Derek, with the proper connection, your Freestanding Load Cell Amplifier with Variable Gain Control , in theory, should allow for a hydro handbrake to be attached to the CSP and be read as a linear input?
 
I just got Iracing and hooked up my Track Boss for the first time. The bottom 6 buttons from the left do not register anything. All the others seem to work as they should. Any ideas?
 
I just got Iracing and hooked up my Track Boss for the first time. The bottom 6 buttons from the left do not register anything. All the others seem to work as they should. Any ideas?

Please contact me via my email to resolve the matter - derek.speare@ymail.com Support matters must be directed to my email to avoid any unnecessary delays. I like to keep things handled quickly :)
 
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Hi folks,

My good friend Sam Maxwell has been making a certain addon wheel rim for the Thrustmaster T500 wheel. What's special about this wheel is that his are a direct fit, quick attach wheel AND will interface directly with the existing connection so you get all the stock buttons just like on the GT wheel rim from TM. AND THE PADDLES WITH THE RIM!

He's found quite the following on iracing and they have been ordering for a bit of time. I give Sam my complete endorsement as he does top quality work and has a perfect reputation in the sim racing community.

These wheels are for these who are willing to spend the money for a high end wheel rim and know value when it's seen. I think it's one of the best solutions out there as Sam's ingenuity is what has brought this component to life. He's hit a home run!

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Hit him up at his email sammax1@earthlink.net and tell him I sent you! He's also offering stand alone hub/plate/paddle assemblies if you have your own wheel rim, but the wheel's he's offering are strictly the Momo Mod27C, Mod 26 and the Sparco P310 (and nothing else from what I know).

Cheers!

d
 
Hi folks - here's a fast update for November 20th:

1 - Shifters and Black Max II's are in stock for immediate shipment;
2 - My new site is changing from the old to the new in the next several days (may be intermittent delays with access)

:gtpflag:

d
 

So which board would I order from you Derek? because there's a few on that page....
 
So which board would I order from you Derek? because there's a few on that page....

Hello Chad - I have a number of boards on my site. They are perfectly DIY in nature. It's not really possible for me to offer guidance for what one will fit each man's particular situation. I trust that anyone who uses my boards will muster the DIY spirit and harness the knowledge necessary to integrate them into their own sim racing space.

d

NB - I have written extensively over the past two years about the subject of pressure and hydraulic braking. I've outlined which components are necessary and what's generally needed. I recommend that anyone looking to do projects of these types to make the investigative effort so they are armed with the facts to make the best decisions for their own needs, interests and skills.

It's outside of the scope of my commercial services to guide with individualized projects. I may do a post on a DIY handbrake outlining what's needed, but I haven't decided. If I do, I will post it for anyone who'd be interested in the subject.
 
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Derek, approximately how much does your straight shaft DSD Pro Sequential GT Knob Long weigh? Could not find that info on the product web page.

I am planning to buy one for my rig, but I would like to know the approximate weight so I can construct adequate right/left supports for it.
 
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Derek, approximately how much does your straight shaft DSD Pro Sequential GT Knob Long weigh? Could not find that info on the product web page.

I am planning to buy one for my new 8020 rig, but I would like to know the approximate weight so I can construct adequate right/left supports for it.

This is a good question - the GT (straight) weighs in at 2.26 pounds and the bent is 2.22 pounds. The weight is of the shifter and the knob.

I recommend a solid mount. Most folks fashion their own. Mark at Fast Track Sims makes one for my shifter. Many use a piece of aluminum angle. One of the videos on my site shows how Brett McBurnie mounted his, and there are photos of some other mounts my customers have made.

Shifters are in stock for Friday shipping ;)

d
 
A point of clarification for Cliffo's post -

There are two types of pressure transducers. One produces Voltage output and the other produces Millivolt output. The one I referenced in my handbrake post is the type which has a voltage output based on the supply voltage (it scales the input voltage in relation to the pressure it's reading). That type operates on a 5volt circuit. These sensors have three wires from them.

The second type is a Millivolt output type, one which can be used only (for sim racing purposes) on an amplified board. Those pressure transducers have 4 wires from them.

The first type, the "Voltage" ones are around 40 bucks, and the seller, Hubert is very popular among the hydraulic pedal crowd. I have one of them. The second type , the "Milivolt" ones are about 110 bucks and are useful if you want it for a very specific purpose. I have some of these too.

For the purposes of our hydro-handbrake, I'd use the Voltage type as the application doesn't demand the versatility of the Milivolt type.

To connect any of these components, refer to the maker's datasheets. Hubert's normally come with a Red, Green and Black wire, but sometimes the are different. You'd connect one of these to any standard controller board with analog channels, 12bit being preferable and mine being a board one could use. In the case of my 12bit board the "12 Bit Standard" would be one to use, but if you wanted to add a "hydro-handbrake" to your load cell or hydraulic pedals, you can do that by simply using one of the unused channels on that controller board.

For example: Say you have a load cell brake pedal system. The load cell goes into the load cell amp's channel, the throttle into Channel 2 and clutch into Channel 3. If you're on one of boards, you'd probably have Throt on A1, Clutch on A2 and load cell on A6 (the amp channel). You still have A3, A4 and A5 to use (the unused 12bit channels). Slam your sensor onto one of those.

Incidentally, you'd use a standard 3 pin jumper cable to connect to the sensor leads, and simply solder the leads which correspond to the input connections (Mine are +5, GND, An) to those connections on the sensor. Cover each exposed solder joint with shrink tape.

There you have it. Sensor 101 :gtpflag:

d
 
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A point of clarification for Cliffo's post -

There are two types of pressure transducers. One produces Voltage output and the other produces Millivolt output. The one I referenced in my handbrake post is the type which has a voltage output based on the supply voltage (it scales the input voltage in relation to the pressure it's reading). That type operates on a 5volt circuit. These sensors have three wires from them.

The second type is a Millivolt output type, one which can be used only (for sim racing purposes) on an amplified board. Those pressure transducers have 4 wires from them.

The first type, the "Voltage" ones are around 40 bucks, and the seller, Hubert is very popular among the hydraulic pedal crowd. I have one of them. The second type , the "Milivolt" ones are about 110 bucks and are useful if you want it for a very specific purpose. I have some of these too.

For the purposes of our hydro-handbrake, I'd use the Voltage type as the application doesn't demand the versatility of the Milivolt type.

To connect any of these components, refer to the maker's datasheets. Hubert's normally come with a Red, Green and Black wire, but sometimes the are different. You'd connect one of these to any standard controller board with analog channels, 12bit being preferable and mine being a board one could use. In the case of my 12bit board the "12 Bit Standard" would be one to use, but if you wanted to add a "hydro-handbrake" to your load cell or hydraulic pedals, you can do that by simply using one of the unused channels on that controller board.

For example: Say you have a load cell brake pedal system. The load cell goes into the load cell amp's channel, the throttle into Channel 2 and clutch into Channel 3. If you're on one of boards, you'd probably have Throt on A1, Clutch on A2 and load cell on A6 (the amp channel). You still have A3, A4 and A5 to use (the unused 12bit channels). Slam your sensor onto one of those.

Incidentally, you'd use a standard 3 pin jumper cable to connect to the sensor leads, and simply solder the leads which correspond to the input connections (Mine are +5, GND, An) to those connections on the sensor. Cover each exposed solder joint with shrink tape.

There you have it. Sensor 101 :gtpflag:

d

Thanks Derek, but that went straight over the top of my head :dopey:

It might sound simple to some, I'll have to do some electronic research before I attempt this.......
 
Thanks Derek, but that went straight over the top of my head :dopey:

It might sound simple to some, I'll have to do some electronic research before I attempt this.......

Here's the "Cliff Notes" version (no pun intended) :),

Connect the wires on the gold sensor to a 3 pin jumper. Connect that to my board. That's as easy as I can make it.

d
 
Thank you kindly :) :gtpflag: It's been an effort to move things around and get this new site up and going, but the old one was looking a bit long in the tooth.

d
 
Added a DSD Wheel Adapter, Mini Plate and Pedal Pads to our work rig :) Nice stuff!




 
T500 Adaptor arrived today. Fitted, tested, Love it !

Excellent quality, top service.. Once again, very happy repeat customer.

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Sam Maxwell / DSD plate and paddles are next I think...
 
Here's an update for all those who have a box or Velocity promised for December 4th shipping: I'm shipping all December 4th orders this Friday, November 30. Please watch your paypal emails for your shipping information and allow a minimum of 10 to 15 working days for international shipments.

Thank you!

d

:gtpflag:
 
Ok folks, here's an update:

All December 4th orders are shipping out today :) Please watch your paypal emails for your shipping information and allow a minimum of 10 to 15 working days for international shipments.

And for those who have an 8020 sim racing space and one of my Pro Sequential Shifters, my friends at Total Spanish Simulator are fabricating a mount which some may like. Please see their site here:

http://www.totalspanishsimulator.com/wp/en/productos/soporte-shifter/

Cheers!

:gtpflag:

d
 
Received the velocity R5 and i like it very much. For my rig it's the right size and i really love the rotary encoders

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One small note: an angled USB cable included would be nice extra :)
 
I purchased a Track Boss from DSD back on the 5th of November, would love to tell you how great it is but I never received it. Also sent an email to Derek to let him know about this, as yet I am still waiting for him to reply to me. Hopefully posting here might speed up his response time. :grumpy:
 
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