Derek Speare Designs - Button Boxes - Shifters - Great Gear

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Here's an update on the progress of our final panel types. Please excuse the low qual photos today :embarrassed:ops:

Also, it's important to note that these are CONCEPTS. The face layouts are the final versions, BUT the components and materials will be different. The final panels will use black powdercoated 6061 frames with mirror polished carbon fiber (the real stuff) and will also have LED Buttons (customer's choice for the color).

The samples in the photos below are final prototypes to make sure the layouts are correct. From here we start cutting the expensive stuff now that we have our gunsights properly calibrated.

We will offer three distinct face types, indicated below and either a LEFT or RIGHT frame. Here they are:

AFW Panel - Type A

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AFW Panel - Type B - The Right Version is shown, and the Left version will be a mirror of the Right

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AFW Panel - Type R (like a "Baby Race King")

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The back of the panel:

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Again, the final version will use powdercoated 6061 with carbon fiber faces like what we use for the Ultra CSW Panels. The buttons on the AFW Panels will be the lighted LED types, available in red, blue, yellow, green or white. The safety covers will match the LED buttons and so will the large, FVS button. There will be no "mix and match" of colors on one panel.

Pricing is still TBD but will be somewhere between 250 and 300 USD each, shipped free anywhere.

Current CSW Panel Owners migrating to the AFW System: We will likely offer conversion frames at a later date in the future, sold in pairs only, made from powdercoated 6061. The customer is responsible for the conversion.

Release date: TBD, but we hope to start taking orders within the next couple of weeks.
 
All SOLD OUT - Thank you!

So the time has come to send some prototypes to new homes. They don't do anyone any good sitting on our shelves with us admiring them. These boxes are all experimental units which we may or may not put into production. They need you and you need them!

So, to help that along, it's time to blow them out and get them into your hands where they can be of good service to you to assist with the goal of hauling ass! These are all ready to ship immediately and priced to move out:

2015 DSD Track Boss FVS - Both are SOLD Thank you!

5 LED Buttons, 5, 2 way toggles, 1 lighted FVS Button, 10 small buttons, 2 covered safeties

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2015 DSD Performance Panel - Red LED - SOLD THANK YOU!
10 LED Buttons, 5 on/off toggles, 5 2way toggles, 5 encoders, 5 smaller buttons

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2015 DSD Performance Panel - White LED - 190 USD, shipped anywhere in the world for FREE!


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2015 DSD Performance Panel - Yellow LED - SOLD THANK YOU!

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NOTE CAREFULLY: The Performance Panel uses our 64 button controller and will function natively with iRacing, Assetto Corsa, rFactor2 and rFactor1 (Steam version) and DCS Flight Sim. YMMV with other titles and we don't recommend these with other sim racing titles.

2015 DSD FLT2 - 135 USD - Sold Thank you!
2 encoders, 6 two way rockers, 6 on/off rockers, 7 buttons

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2015 DSD FLT1 LED - SOLD THANK YOU!
5 encoders, 8 on/off rockers, 7 LED buttons

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Special Pricing for new orders only.

To claim one simply send payment for the device of your choice to orders@derekspearedesigns.com - be sure to include your full and complete shipping address and indicate the one you want to order. Also, please reply to the thread here if you order one and indicate which one you've ordered. This is asked to prevent duplicate orders that might come in between when you order and I update the thread. Thank you in advance!

Happy racing!

d
 
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Hi all,

If you have an Accuforce Wheel and need some buttons at your fingertips, DSD has you covered. You'll be interested in knowing that our Ultra Series AFW Panels for the Accuforce Wheel are just about to release for preordering.

Below are the final versions of the AFW Panels, and you'll feel confident in knowing that when you invest your funds into one of these that they're made from only the best materials. These panels are made from genuine mirror polished carbon fiber and 3/16" 6061 aluminum, powder coated in high gloss back. Each one uses a combination of rotary encoders, toggles and lighted LED Buttons (which are quite popular).

Each one is also jam packed with function to ensure that when you need to access a particular function your race won't be interrupted with reaching to the keyboard to hunt for some key from over a hundred. And like its cousin we make for the CSW Wheel, the Ultra Series AFW Panels are an exclusive component system that will set your sim racing space off from everything else and complement that rather superb Accuforce Wheel like nothing else can. We promise you'll love them!

Here they are:

AFW Panel - Type R

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AFW Panel - Type A

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AFW Panel - Type B - Right

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AFW Panel - Type B - Left

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You will choose one of the 4 types shown as well as your side preference, either left or right. You will have your choice of colors from red, white or blue. These will be offered at 289.75 each, shipped with Priority Shipping to any place in the world. We will also include a USB cable and a tool kit so you can mount them up in a flash.

The DSD Site is the place to go for getting your name on the alert email for when we begin taking orders:

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/afw-panels.html

Thanks for looking!

d
 
I think I ordered the last (or one of the very last) csw Ultra button box set of this batch.

It moved to "sold out" status rapidly after my order :scared:.

It was more than time to make my mind about this new tool !

It will be my firts button box: can't wait to test it !
 
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I think I ordered the last (or one of the very last) csw Ultra button box set of this batch.

It moved to "sold out" status rapidly after my order :scared:.

It was more than time to make my mind about this new tool !

It will be my firts button box: can't wait to test it !

Thank you :) Yes, you ordered the last set! We are certain you will enjoy them!

:gtpflag:
 
I received my CSW Ultra button box set. It is a very nice piece of hardware; that looks amazing with my CSW V2.
I am still not used to using a button box so I need to finetune the mapping in order to create the best configuration for me (I mainly play Project Cars).

The 2015 shifter is on its way too: I should receive it in the coming days :).

So far all this goes on my current rig but I will upgrade my set-up in the coming weeks so I will post photos when everything is in place !
 
Hi all,

Here are some photos of the DSD Professional Grade Sim Racing Pedals built off the Wilwood 340 Series Auto Racing Pedals:

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We've incorporated many refinements into these pedals and have made every effort to improve them to the best possible extent. I'm personally pleased with the final result. We've shipped a run of these recently and will be taking orders again in the weeks ahead. If you want to receive an alert email for when we do or want to learn more about our pedal solution, see the DSD Site here:

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/pedals.html

Happy racing!

d
 
👍

The updated pedals look fantastic :bowdown:

I think I will soon invest in high end pedals. I am still hesitating between these and the ones from Netherlands. I guess I won't make a bad choice with any of those two !

(2015 shifter received yesterday: What a piece of hardware ! Congratulations :cheers: It won't mount easilly on my Rseat rs1...but will suit perfectly my future JCL cockpit :D ).

Edit: Temporary rig
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The Ultra csw button box looks very nice with the carbon formula rim.
 
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It is done! A mission indeed but well worth it.
The pedals feel like brand new pedals even though it is at the moment only by hand and not yet mounted in the sim.

The accelerator feels mean and possitive and with the adjustable soft stop it looks like the travel is fully adjustable. Same with the clutch. Choose between either short or long throw. I feel that maybe the accelerator spring bolt could either be shorter or longer thread as I had to turn it in all the way to prevent it leaning too far forward.

I had to use the existing pot cause the new shaft is thinner which mean the knob did not fit. Also the loadcell wiring is very thin and care need to be taken when working with the new loom. They twist easily and looks like they can brake just as easily.

Well it is late and I will have to wait till tomorrow night before testing. Eye candy so far is a ++++

Great work Derek. Everything looks and feel fantastic.:cheers:
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Great work! The following tuning instructions were to be posted sooner. Please review these steps to insure that the brake pedal is "dialed in" as optimally as we do it. Happy racing, Bert!

It is important that when you install the load cell element that you take care not to damage it. Here are the removal and installation instructions:

1 - remove the two brake spring retaining bolts with a SAE 1/2" socket
2 - remove the 4 nylock nuts backing the 4 yellow bushings at the rear of the brake pedal assembly
3 - remove the load cell's strain plate by removing the black screw with a 4mm hex key
4 - remove the load cell mounting plate from the 4 threaded studs
5 - use the black screw from step three to insert into the opposite side of the load cell mounting plate and tighten hand tight. This is to keep the load cell element from spinning when you remove its lower mounting screw
6 - use a 4mm hex key to remove the other black screw holding the load cell element to load cell mounting plate
7 - remove the other black screw

Installation is in reverse and it's a critical step that when you mount the new load cell to the load cell mounting plate that you secure the strained end like in Step 6. If you do not do this you risk spinning the new element and rendering it unusable. They are fragile until installed and undisturbed.
Once you have the new load cell element installed and connect to the electronics you will then need to calibrate the pedals again, but it will also be necessary to adjust the torque on the 4 yellow bushings correctly so the system is balanced.

When you tighten the nylock nuts to retain the bushings you will first torque them down to just about the point when they will no longer spin on their studs. Stop there. Then open the windows game controller applet and proceed to calibrate the pedals. Go through the throttle and clutch pedals and then to the "Z-Rotation Axis". Make sure "Display raw values" is checked. Also make sure you have connected your sensitivity adjustment knob properly; set it to about half way between the limits when adjusting.

You will see that the blue bar may be greater than zero percent and may even read several hundred steps of output when the brake is at rest. From here you will need to tighten the LOWER nylock nuts evenly and the blue bar and raw values will begin to decrease. Continue tightening the lower nuts evenly until the raw value approaches close to zero (will be somewhere between 0 and 6/7). You need to go slowly and make small adjustments at a time. It may also be necessary to add some torque to the upper nylock nuts as well to balance the strain plate. Actuate the brake throughout the adjustment process to check its response. the output should be smooth and build evenly through its range of travel. Once you have the brake tuned you may then adjust the sensitivity control to your liking and from there it is ready to be installed into service.​
 
Great work! The following tuning instructions were to be posted sooner.

You will see that the blue bar may be greater than zero percent and may even read several hundred steps of output when the brake is at rest. From here you will need to tighten the LOWER nylock nuts evenly and the blue bar and raw values will begin to decrease. Continue tightening the lower nuts evenly until the raw value approaches close to zero (will be somewhere between 0 and 6/7). You need to go slowly and make small adjustments at a time. It may also be necessary to add some torque to the upper nylock nuts as well to balance the strain plate. Actuate the brake throughout the adjustment process to check its response. the output should be smooth and build evenly through its range of travel. Once you have the brake tuned you may then adjust the sensitivity control to your liking and from there it is ready to be installed into service.​
Was wondering about those yellow bushes when I installed them. I think I will have to check the loadcell again to make sure it sits correctly.
Will also have to redirect my clutch wiring as per your video which will see it sitting neatly without exposed inner cores.

Looking forward to testing and calibrating my new pedals and then hitting the tracks.
 
Thanks for the calibration guide Derek. The whole calibration process took about five minutes

The pedals are installed, calibrated and tested and I am impressed. The new spacing feels natural and real and so much more precise.
I got the loadcell down to 6 with the pot set to 50% and the clutch has a real short travel but I like it.

Looking forward to some track time tomorrow.

:cheers::gtpflag:


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Received a P1 box and Tilton pedals for my homely G27 project. Excellent stuff...only question is regarding the tilton pedal covers. I used the old screws since the provided ones didn't fit. Notice the pedal covers are flat vs. the curve of the G27 pedals --- should the black mount-box be removed in addition? (I couldn't see how to do this).

Pedals are mounted right now and work fine, but I don't want to damage anything if I've got them on there wrong!

Quick shipping (even obliged me with an address correction mid-shipping) and really really nice kit.
 
Received a P1 box and Tilton pedals for my homely G27 project. Excellent stuff...only question is regarding the tilton pedal covers. I used the old screws since the provided ones didn't fit. Notice the pedal covers are flat vs. the curve of the G27 pedals --- should the black mount-box be removed in addition? (I couldn't see how to do this).

Pedals are mounted right now and work fine, but I don't want to damage anything if I've got them on there wrong!

Quick shipping (even obliged me with an address correction mid-shipping) and really really nice kit.
There is a screw on the back of the pedal arms that hold the black spacer blocks on.
 
Since Project Cars announced its 2.0 patch, allowing USB (and probably BT) keyboards for key mapping in the game, would a DSD button box also (finally) work with consoles (PS4 in my case) ?
I really hope so, but for now nobody seems to be 100% sure as far as I could find.

Somebody ?
Derek ?
 
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