Fanatec CSL Elite Racing Wheel Thread- officially licensed for PS4

  • Thread starter PzR Slim
  • 2,901 comments
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Oshawa-Joe
Nice! Love that rim. I think I'd get that F1 esports rim as well. I'm using the same pedal set with my T300 via Drivehub.
Congratulations on your new set up man!

The load cell may take some testing to get it how you like. I went with all heavy bushings for reduced travel (quicker to 100%) and felt it had more accurate progression through full range. Mixing up the bushings added some inconsistent feeling to it. But some guys mix and match and do really well.
Click to expand...
Yeah, i have a loooong way to go testing this new thing.
 
Schmiggz
Yeah, i have a loooong way to go testing this new thing.
Click to expand...
At least you have the wheel that allows you to adjust brake force % for the load cell. I set mine on a PC to 90%, a point I'm comfortable with all the time. But you will be able to adjust that to suit a specific combo. Maybe you want 100 % braking quick and easy, so lower the BF %. Maybe a combo requires more brake modulation, and less full braking, so run BF higher. That's what I would do.

I fine tuned the load cell using time trials. I let the #s dictate what worked for me. At first I was too obsessed with having more pedal travel, but for me, it made me slower and made things feel sloppy compared to having a stiff, short travel brake.
 
Hey Joe. Thanks for your feedback, brother.
Dude, I'm not even there yet!!! :scared:Adjusting the brake pedal is 10 lines down on the list:crazy:
I'm still testing all settings combined because it's the game options settings, the wheel itself to fit in my gazillion track/car settings.
I'm gonna take a look at the Jack Spader's stuff.
Most trouble right now is steering feel... I dont like it yet. Then FF and then brake cell.
Even the rig settings were all wrong to accommodate the fanatec. :lol:
 
Carson79
When the csp v 2's first came out it was standard to upgrade the stock shock for an RC one.
Various spring stiffness and various types of silicone oil for the desired feel.
If you are really keen on modifications I don't see why you couldn't modify the csl brake with an RC shock.
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Schmiggz
Hey Joe. Thanks for your feedback, brother.
Dude, I'm not even there yet!!! :scared:Adjusting the brake pedal is 10 lines down on the list:crazy:
I'm still testing all settings combined because it's the game options settings, the wheel itself to fit in my gazillion track/car settings.
I'm gonna take a look at the Jack Spader's stuff.
Most trouble right now is steering feel... I dont like it yet. Then FF and then brake cell.
Even the rig settings were all wrong to accommodate the fanatec. :lol:
Click to expand...

Try this, it works for me.
Tell me if you like it. :)

Base settings are:

SEN auto
FF 100
SHO 100
ABS 100
DRI OFF
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 60
FEI 30

Ingame

Controller -2
FFT 6
FFS 10
 
I need to get this off my chest. I bought the CLS elite plus break setup and spent about 700 euro last year and I have not played GT sport anymore since. The issue with the under-steer rattling and the lag of solving the issue (I truly do not care where the issue is, I would expect it to work as expected and would hope it to work better than most other wheels.. for that price).

I would not recommencement anyone to buy this wheel when they want to use it in Gran Turismo
 
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oooMaXimumooo
The issue with the under-steer rattling and the lag of solving the issue (I truly do not care where the issue is, I would expect it to work as expected and would hope it to work better than most other wheels.. for that price).
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...yeah ...I hate this too and it's a major put-off that hasn't been addressed yet, but hasn't kept me from playing. TBH, I don't think it will be addressed at all, although I suspect it's just something minor dev-wise - as I have said in this thread, logic dictates is that it's the output meant for the DS4 controller that has been passed on to the wheels.

Hopefully someone from Fanatec- maybe @DomB_Fanatec ? - can provide an update on whether this has been communicated and if they got any response.
 
Guys i don't think that this "problem" will be addressed at all, because it's not a problem....
I'm driving with the CSL Elite myself, i know what you are talking about! I reconfigured my Wheelbase and everything is fine. The understeer rattle is still there, because its the way the understeer gets "delivered" to the driver by the wheel!

Please try reducing the FEI on your wheel base to 30-40 and test it.

And iff you constantly keep getting the understeer rattle in the corners, try going in the correct speed, you are to fast and the rattle is there to show you the limit...

Don't blame everything on the Manufacturer, this has been discussed more than once!
And keep in mind that Thrustmaster is the official Partner for PD!
The T-GT has a feature for GTS no other Manufacturer has, because of this partnership (correct me if i am wrong here, but i read this some time ago here in the forum, i try to find and link it)
 
@NaketWookie Yes, this has been discussed, yes I agree that it won't be addressed (although I have a secret excitement that it might), but.. here is the fact:

...This function makes absolutely no sense to a wheel configuration; in the controller there's no way to make the joystick 'go light' so this rattle/vibration was meant for the controllers. However, since they can make a wheel 'go light' - as it happens when you loose traction IRL - then why not make it right? So, essentially, the equivalent of the rattle on the DS controller should be the 'go light' for wheels..
 
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scooterlord
@NaketWookie Yes, this has been discusses, yes I agree that it won't be addressed (although I have a secret excitement that it might), but.. here is the fact:

...This function makes absolutely no sense to a wheel configuration; in the controller there's no way to make the joystick 'go light' so this rattle/vibration was meant for the controllers. However, since they can make a wheel 'go light' - as it happens when you loose traction IRL - then why not make it right? So, essentially, the equivalent of the rattle on the DS controller should be the 'go light' for wheels..
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if we are on the same page here... i can feel my wheel "go light" on my CSL Elite, just before the rattle.
And i'm not sure what the controllers have to do with it. IIRC the DS4 Controllers and Wheels are on completely different software-drivers...

And if you ask me: "...as it happens when you loose traction IRL - then why not make it right?"
Remember the partnership?! Maybe they are not "allowed" to on other input devices, i don't know... but i do know that there is A WHOLTE LOT OF players that don't know how to configure there devices when something doesn't work the way they want. (please don't misunderstand this as "get your **** together", i don't mean it that way)
 
NaketWookie
Any Update to this? It appears that it has not been fixed in 1.40.
(The missing / reduced ABS Rumble)
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Our initial impression was that it was a result of the GTS 1.39 update, and our communication with PD seemed to verify this. However, it appears to be affecting other games too, so there is something else going on here, and we are still investigating.
 
DomB_Fanatec
Our initial impression was that it was a result of the GTS 1.39 update, and our communication with PD seemed to verify this. However, it appears to be affecting other games too, so there is something else going on here, and we are still investigating.
Click to expand...

After your statement i did a quick check on PCars 2, and indeed, same issue :(
 
^ Could it be related to PS4 system update 6.71?

GTS 1.39 - 30th May
PS4 6.71 - 4th of June

Or maybe PD thought that the disliked understeer rattle was cause of pedal/rim vibration motors so they removed it 💡:dunce:
 
Knukel
^ Could it be related to PS4 system update 6.71?

GTS 1.39 - 30th May
PS4 6.71 - 4th of June

Or maybe PD thought that the disliked understeer rattle was cause of pedal/rim vibration motors so they removed it 💡:dunce:
Click to expand...
We saw reports of this before June 4th.
 
DomB_Fanatec
We saw reports of this before June 4th.
Click to expand...

Are there any plans to update the CSL Elite wheel with a tighter belt tensioner to reduce the vibrations inherent with a single belt system? I'd buy that in a heart beat to go with my amazing CSL Elite LC pedals.
 
Hello. listen for a long time and experience how the csl elite base vibrates. In asetto Corsa compitizione FEI, it will be higher than 60% already dangerous. And I do not want to go on the steering wheel for 450 € and listen to how it rattles. I already had repair under warranty replacement of the decoder. I asked friends from someone clab sport 2.5. they said no such problem, they FEI exhibit 80-100. as I understand the problem with the base csl is that the belt is one and he is wearing plastic gears on which he slips and rattles over the whole apartment. at 2.5 base, the belt sits firmly on the iron shaft and sits very well, and there are 2 belts on it, it behaves so gently! DEAR WORKERS OF FANATEC, please give an answer to this question.
 
Oshawa-Joe
Are there any plans to update the CSL Elite wheel with a tighter belt tensioner to reduce the vibrations inherent with a single belt system? I'd buy that in a heart beat to go with my amazing CSL Elite LC pedals.
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@Knukel

Fanatec has increased the diameter of the idler(white tensioners) to increase the belt tension and reduce the mechanical noise in the CSL Elite V1.1 version. This change is also being applied to the PS4 model(I do not know exactly when). They haven't drawn attention to it because it really is a minor change that has no other impact on performance.
 
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My csl elite arrived on Friday and I'm absolutely loving it! The feel, build quality is so much better than my t300rs, makes it seem like a toy in comparison. I have a question regarding the quick release system... I'm wanting to buy the eSports F1 rim and the upcoming BMW gt wheel, they both are advertised as being quick release, no screws needed unlike the stock csl wheel. Has anyone had experience with these? Does it work as quick as advertised? It seems it would be way more convenient for changing wheels on the fly... Say you go from an open wheeler in GT3 car in the same session etc.... no Allen key or screw business needed.
 
AussieMitch
My csl elite arrived on Friday and I'm absolutely loving it! The feel, build quality is so much better than my t300rs, makes it seem like a toy in comparison. I have a question regarding the quick release system... I'm wanting to buy the eSports F1 rim and the upcoming BMW gt wheel, they both are advertised as being quick release, no screws needed unlike the stock csl wheel. Has anyone had experience with these? Does it work as quick as advertised? It seems it would be way more convenient for changing wheels on the fly... Say you go from an open wheeler in GT3 car in the same session etc.... no Allen key or screw business needed.
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As quick as advertised. I had the F1 Esports now the F1 V2 (near straight swap cost wise for me fortunately) and have the McLaren which now comes with the quick release adaptor as well as the original as part of the wheel package. All work perfectly and you can swap wheels in less than 10 seconds.

CJ
 
Lately (approx 1 1/2 months) My Fanatec CSL Elite (PS4) started losing connection intermittently. Sometimes after 1 lap, sometimes 2-10 laps, and sometimes I could race/practice 10plus laps without it losing connection. When it happens of course the only recourse is to shut it down, power it back on, continue and hope for the best.
Someone suggested it could be the USB cable malfunctioning causing the disconnection/s when happens. I'd like to try replacing the USB cable to test and see if it solves the issue. I searched the Fanatec website but alas they don't seem to sell the cables and such.

So what I'd like to know is what USB cable I'd have to look for/purchase? Someone I saw on a forum thinks it could be a USB 2.0, A to B cable.
The manual says...IMPORTANT: Use compatible USB cables (certified to comply with USB 2.0 standard and with a straight plug) to avoid damage and/or malfunction!

Is this the type of cable that is ok to use? It looks like it with similar connectors but want to be sure.
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet

81dkFiO15rL._SL1500_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=usb+atob+cable&qid=1563141796&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin:7800926011,p_72:1248879011&rnid=1248877011&s=pc&sr=1-2
 
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davidt33
Lately (approx 1 1/2 months) My Fanatec CSL Elite (PS4) started losing connection intermittently. Sometimes after 1 lap, sometimes 2-10 laps, and sometimes I could race/practice 10plus laps without it losing connection. When it happens of course the only recourse is to shut it down, power it back on, continue and hope for the best.
Someone suggested it could be the USB cable malfunctioning causing the disconnection/s when happens. I'd like to try replacing the USB cable to test and see if it solves the issue. I searched the Fanatec website but alas they don't seem to sell the cables and such.

So what I'd like to know is what USB cable I'd have to look for/purchase? Someone I saw on a forum thinks it could be a USB 2.0, A to B cable.
The manual says...IMPORTANT: Use compatible USB cables (certified to comply with USB 2.0 standard and with a straight plug) to avoid damage and/or malfunction!

Is this the type of cable that is ok to use? It looks like it with similar connectors but want to be sure.
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet

View attachment 835864

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=usb+atob+cable&qid=1563141796&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin:7800926011,p_72:1248879011&rnid=1248877011&s=pc&sr=1-2
Click to expand...
Yup this should works I had mine recently replaced just make sure get the 2.0 and more reliable brand.
 

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