Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

  • Thread starter super_gt
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FMW
What is your In Game Torque setting at? When I had my DD Pro, I bounced between 5-6 with the base at 100%. If I were still using my DD Pro, I would likely be setting the In Game Torque to 8-9 based on the 1.49 update slightly weakening all bases. On my DD+ I had to up the base from 70% to 75% and the In Game from 4 to 5 to get the same FF strength pre-update levels.
Click to expand...
pre 1.49 I used 10 in game strength when drifting on comfort hard tires and the wheel was extremely snappy and would self steer perfectly, and 5-6 in game strength when racing with sport/race tires. The fanatec wheelbase set to 100% strength and the power supply is for 8nm.

After 1.49 I use 10 in game strength when drifting and it feels like previous 1 game strength. Both times I set the wheelbase to 100% torque/strength.

In the fanatec software I just updated the wheelbase, the wheel and the QR2. Firmware 455. I've read people have tried FW 457 but I have not seen where to download that updated FW

post 1.49 the racing feels okay, its less torque or ffb strength than 1.48 but for racing it seems okay-ish. For drifting the low torque kills it, the wheel will not self steer back inbetween drifts like it should and I need to physically steer the wheel between drifts, unnaturally.
 
Kriptical
Hmm. So after a lot of miles i’ve settled on 8/7 in game. Sometimes 7/7. Not sure yet.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that needs to crank up Max Torque a bit. Did a couple hundred miles today with 8/7 and 7/7 and landed on 7/7 and somewhat similar wheel settings. Assuming Max Torque is now a percentage of available torque, that should be 10.5NM which is a fairly normal place to end up on a 15NM wheelbase.
 
smd
Glad to hear I'm not the only one that needs to crank up Max Torque a bit. Did a couple hundred miles today with 8/7 and 7/7 and landed on 7/7 and somewhat similar wheel settings. Assuming Max Torque is now a percentage of available torque, that should be 10.5NM which is a fairly normal place to end up on a 15NM wheelbase.
Click to expand...
Ya. 8 really seemed to make sense in atlanta with the gr4’s today. Maybe 6 or 7 if im one handing it, driving stick offline.

I actually tried 10 yesterday but my ndp was too high and stepped on the wheel feels. Still, 8 feels fine. Did gr3 yesterday, gr4 today, road cars tomorrow. Should be interesting.
 
Lcbroker
i just purchased a extreme with v3 pedals. Anything i need to know before i set them up? Do i need to update software before plugging them into ps5? Thanks
Click to expand...
DON'T update anything.
Just put everything together and start it up.
If it works out of the box... DON'T update it.
Very very important note.
DON'T update the drivers
DON'T update the WQR

I'm not sure about the Wheel though.

But in any case if it works out of the box

Just don't do it 🙂
 
PirovacBoy
DON'T update anything.
Just put everything together and start it up.
If it works out of the box... DON'T update it.
Very very important note.
DON'T update the drivers
DON'T update the WQR

I'm not sure about the Wheel though.

But in any case if it works out of the box

Just don't do it 🙂
Click to expand...
Gotcha, thanks. Btw can i adjust the brake pressure thru the wheelbase? Or do i need to use the software?
 
Lcbroker
Gotcha, thanks. Btw can i adjust the brake pressure thru the wheelbase? Or do i need to use the software?
Click to expand...
Yes you can adjust the Brake Pressure on the Wheelbase Tuning Menu.
Only thing you should do is to center calibrate the Wheel in the Fanatec Driver Menu in case it should not be property aligned.
But even that can be done on the Wheelbase itself.
Some button combination but I prefer to use the Fanatec Software

Oh, and before I forget...
Did I mention to NOT update the Wheelbase 😅
 
PirovacBoy
DON'T update anything.
Just put everything together and start it up.
If it works out of the box... DON'T update it.
Very very important note.
DON'T update the drivers
DON'T update the WQR

I'm not sure about the Wheel though.

But in any case if it works out of the box

Just don't do it 🙂
Click to expand...
Yup, this cannot be said enough.
All FWs 455, 456 and 457 have bugs with the wheel base and/or WQR crashing. Unfortunately I was apparently among the first to receive the GT DD X (so no infos about the crashes) and the first thing I did (before even using it) was updating the FW, so I never experienced the out-of-the-box no crashes FW.
With 455 (which I'm using) I get a sporadic crash of the WQR, so all button presses from the wheel stop working but I can still turn (and the pedals still work). To fix it I need to reboot the base manually. It doesn't happen often for me though. Maybe once or twice per month.
Both 456 and 457 also have crashes (happening more often than with 455 for me), however there the whole unit crashes. So all inputs are frozen in place. Fortunately the base is rebooting itself automatically, but for the few seconds it's crashed you can't do anything.

But: It can be different for everyone. There are people not having crashes with the firmwares above. According to the Fanatec people in their forums, the crashes don't happen on their units either which is most likely why the 456 and 457 FWs got shipped out like this in the first place. And as you can imagine, it's not easy trying to fix a bug like this if you can't reproduce it.
 
timekiller001
Yup, this cannot be said enough.
All FWs 455, 456 and 457 have bugs with the wheel base and/or WQR crashing. Unfortunately I was apparently among the first to receive the GT DD X (so no infos about the crashes) and the first thing I did (before even using it) was updating the FW, so I never experienced the out-of-the-box no crashes FW.
With 455 (which I'm using) I get a sporadic crash of the WQR, so all button presses from the wheel stop working but I can still turn (and the pedals still work). To fix it I need to reboot the base manually. It doesn't happen often for me though. Maybe once or twice per month.
Both 456 and 457 also have crashes (happening more often than with 455 for me), however there the whole unit crashes. So all inputs are frozen in place. Fortunately the base is rebooting itself automatically, but for the few seconds it's crashed you can't do anything.

But: It can be different for everyone. There are people not having crashes with the firmwares above. According to the Fanatec people in their forums, the crashes don't happen on their units either which is most likely why the 456 and 457 FWs got shipped out like this in the first place. And as you can imagine, it's not easy trying to fix a bug like this if you can't reproduce it.
Click to expand...
Thanks !
 
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Just to echo what the others have said, don't update anything at first. If it all works straight out of the box, leave it that way and see how it goes. If you have any issues then you may have to update the firmware (some people reported that their extremes didn't work straight away and had to update the firmware).

Use the @PirovacBoy settings because they are very good and work even better since the latest GT7 update.

Fwiw I did update to the 457 drivers and have updated to the latest firmware on everything and I don't have any issues. Maybe I've just been one of the lucky ones.
 
Oi Oi JC
Just to echo what the others have said, don't update anything at first. If it all works straight out of the box, leave it that way and see how it goes. If you have any issues then you may have to update the firmware (some people reported that their extremes didn't work straight away and had to update the firmware).

Use the @PirovacBoy settings because they are very good and work even better since the latest GT7 update.

Fwiw I did update to the 457 drivers and have updated to the latest firmware on everything and I don't have any issues. Maybe I've just been one of the lucky ones.
Click to expand...
Can u share his settings again as can't locate them...thanks in advance!
 
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Just realised I had made a note of @PirovacBoy settings back in March 24 - not sure if they are still his current settings but here is what I have:

DD Plus / Extreme:

SEN AUTO

FFB 100

NDP 25

NFR 5

NIN 1

INT 4



Game GT7:

Torq 5

sens 7
 
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www.gtplanet.net

Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme: GT7 Wheel Settings Guide

Fanatec's Gran Turismo DD Extreme was released earlier this year, and since then, the GTPlanet community has dug in to figure out how to get the most out of it in Gran Turismo 7. One of our members, "PirovacBoy", is among the most prolific and knowledgeable wheel tuners around, and he's shared wi
www.gtplanet.net www.gtplanet.net

This is what you Guys should use

Big shout out @Jordan

I watched your most recent YouTube Video and couldn't feel more honored being mentioned 👍

bokspeed
Just realised I had made a note of @PirovacBoy settings back in March 24 - not sure if they are still his current settings but here is what I have:

DD Plus / Extreme:

SEN AUTO

FFB 100

NDP 25

NFR 5

NIN 1

INT 4



Game GT7:

Torq 5

sens 7
Click to expand...
Only change I've made is
NDP 28
Torque 5
Sensitivity 8

Anyone on a DD+ is highly recommended to use THESE EXACT settings.
 
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Avenger2000
DD Pro disconnects are mostly because of shaft issues. You have to inspect it.
Click to expand...
FWIW that's been my experience. When it starts disconnecting frequently, I have to remove the wheel, realign the shaft and retighten the clamp then reconnect the wheel as securely as possible. Then it's good for months of near-daily use before I need to do it again.
 
Just chiming in to add to the DD Pro FF issue. For me it makes no difference what I'm driving, wife said same thing. Not sure why I paid for the 8nm boost kit when I can turn the wheel with one finger now. Gonna go mess with some of the other settings that ppl have kindly suggested and see what happens.
 
I'm already used to having INT to 0 to have quite rough feedback, so the settings from PirovacBoy are not quite for me. I went back to my pre-patch settings and just adjusted the strength and NDP and am quite happy with it now.
SEN AUTO
FFB 80
FUL 50 (not used)
NDP 50
NFR 4
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 100

In Game:
FFB Torque 5
FFB Sensitivity 1

Please note that these are with Group 3 cars as the main focus.
 
Interesting.

I spent another day with the scud in Tokyo. Yesterday was a bit confusing. The car was just too light. But its a road car. And i’ve driven lots of rear wheel drive torque~y things through the city…so..if i make the normal car feel like a car. Everything else shout be what it is, ya? Kinda like white balance.. Anyway, in vr, the car pretty much felt like a car with these settings. Didn’t feel too heavy or anything, which was surprising, honestly. Also, it was noteworthy that ffb sensi in game above 6 seemed to cloud things. Traction loss/acquisition and a little bit of general grip when your light on the tires. All in all, for the only road car tested yet, these settings felt pretty good.
..at least today!


330mm round
Ffb torque 9
Ffb sensitivity 6

Ndp: 18

Nfr: -

Nin: -

Int 1.

Everything else 100. Except full force at zero(of course)

I actually hesitate to post these. They look like crazy town with the in game settings but 🤷‍♂️ it felt good. Started naturally attacking the track based on what i was feeling. Which is great.

Wondering if getting back in a race car will be a holy !$#% moment. Kinda expecting it.

Ps: you know..if i wake up tomorrow and these settings still don’t suck..its going to make hundreds of cars interesting..overnight…which doesn’t suck…

at all!
 
So, I got to mess around more with the 1.49 update over the weekend. (GT3 and GT4 cars mostly) My old settings needed some fine tuning. 70-75 on the FFB was no longer enough strength and something seemed off. It felt like the FFB was less dynamic and I had a little oscillation. Raising the “in-game” settings didn’t feel 100% right, so I went to the @PirovacBoy settings and maxed out the FFB to 100 per his recommendation and for the fact that PD stated this in the patch notes: “The force feedback algorithm has been adjusted, allowing devices to use their full torque range.” Once you set the base FFB to 100%, I think fine tuning the MAX Torque in game is a better way to go than adjusting the FFB strength on the base as others have mentioned too. It is the way I have tuned my base to ACC with the “GAIN” adjustment. This update seems to have made GT7 better use the full dynamic range of the DD+, just like ACC did months ago. The only thing I altered from PirovacBoy’s settings is the “IN-GAME.” 5 is too much for my current fitness level. 4/8 is a nice, sweet spot for me and the wheel rim I use for GT7.

SEN: AUTO
FFB: 100
FUL: N/A
NDP: 28
NFR: 5
NIN: 1
INT: 4
FEI: 100
FOR: 100
SPR: GAME Does not use it.
DPR: GAME Does not use it.
BLI: OFF
BRF 90.

IN GAME
TORQUE: 4
SENSITIVITY: 8

DD+ base FW: 455 (2.0.1.4) Came pre-installed on my replacement DD+ base. I DO NOT recommend 457. Some YouTube streamers have recommended 457 with the 1.49 update. I do not agree. It’s not worth the soft disconnect issue that may result from updating to that version.

WQR: Hot Fix (1.1.0.3) Came pre-installed on my replacement base. I'm not 100% certain this is posted on the FANATEC forums. You had to have volunteered to try it a while ago if you were reading the official Fanatec forums.

Wheel rim: BMW GT2 V2 (320mm)

Anyway, this update to the game and this wheelbase has transformed the game for me. It’s made my league racing more fun! And it’s made single player worth playing again!
 
I don't want to jinx anything, but since the 1.49 update, I haven't had a single issue with my GT DD Pro, not a single rotation bug, not a single FFB bug (I'm talking about the bugs where at random points at event starts your wheel suddenly feels too heavy or doesn't rotate as it should - quick pausing and continuing was the solution before the update). Now those bugs are gone, hopefully forever.

Also, I tried the longer USB cable again, and connected it to the back - in this case I was getting the soft disconnects before, very often, but for now it's all working perfectly.
 
PirovacBoy
www.gtplanet.net

Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme: GT7 Wheel Settings Guide

Fanatec's Gran Turismo DD Extreme was released earlier this year, and since then, the GTPlanet community has dug in to figure out how to get the most out of it in Gran Turismo 7. One of our members, "PirovacBoy", is among the most prolific and knowledgeable wheel tuners around, and he's shared wi
www.gtplanet.net www.gtplanet.net

This is what you Guys should use

Big shout out @Jordan

I watched your most recent YouTube Video and couldn't feel more honored being mentioned 👍


Only change I've made is
NDP 28
Torque 5
Sensitivity 8

Anyone on a DD+ is highly recommended to use THESE EXACT settings.
Click to expand...
First time using your settings, tested it out doing the Sardegna grind and find that the wheel oscillates a lot during the long straight. Not sure if that's intended?

On firmware 455 if that matters
 
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@FMW @PirovacBoy I modified my settings to match although already in the neighborhood so it was mainly going to 100% FFB. For a lot of cars really felt nice - the Ferrari on the Tokyo Time trial for example, and it was not just adding more strength but more information in the feedback. Others especially odd tunes felt a bit off in some situations

But anything that hits over 300Kph/200mph starts to oscillate like crazy. Took a variety to Route X and its pretty consistent down the straights - varies by car somewhat so design is part of it. Its not just the VGTs but the 919 and GR010 GR1 cars which have previously been very stable. With the base cranked up w those settings it can really take your arms off with some cars🙀

Turning controller sensitivity down to 1 damps out some of it but not all - varies by car - which is interesting regarding figuring what sensitivity actually does

But looks like the issues causing the bouncing cars has a broader impact so whatever fix is coming might be disapointing

DD+ base from 455 FW2.0.1.4 and WQR from 457 FW 1.1.0.1
 
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I've gone from the 0 NDP with maximum feeling settings, to @PirovacBoy setting.
I wasn't completely happy with the lack of understeer feel, but like @RS60NR went to 1 on sensitivity and boom it's feeling great. I ended up on 5 for torque, but will adjust per car if required.
 
The Oscillating can be mitigated by either turning up the NDP.
Or you can increase the INT.
And of course you can lower the in game setting for the Sensitivity.
A combination of those 3 without exaggerating only one specific of those mentioned ones is the best way to balance the overall FFB Oscillating.

If you just decide to crank up the NDP you will loose a lot of low speed tire behavior making oversteer hard to anticipate.
If you crank up INT, you will smoothen out all Effects entirely which will result in a way more realistic Steering rack behavior, though at the expanse of feeling the suspension and road effects.
Lowering The Sensitivity in game will result in a more weight shift driven FFB and slower tire response.

But as long as you keep your hands on the Wheel and not let go off, a bit of oscillating should not be an issue.

Of course if you are looking for the most authentic replication of real life Steering wheel behavior you have to put NDP very high and just lower the INT to 0.
But in that case you should also keep the overall Torque level pretty low.
3 to 5 at most on the DD+
 
PirovacBoy
The Oscillating can be mitigated by either turning up the NDP.
Or you can increase the INT.
And of course you can lower the in game setting for the Sensitivity.
A combination of those 3 without exaggerating only one specific of those mentioned ones is the best way to balance the overall FFB Oscillating.

If you just decide to crank up the NDP you will loose a lot of low speed tire behavior making oversteer hard to anticipate.
If you crank up INT, you will smoothen out all Effects entirely which will result in a way more realistic Steering rack behavior, though at the expanse of feeling the suspension and road effects.
Lowering The Sensitivity in game will result in a more weight shift driven FFB and slower tire response.

But as long as you keep your hands on the Wheel and not let go off, a bit of oscillating should not be an issue.

Of course if you are looking for the most authentic replication of real life Steering wheel behavior you have to put NDP very high and just lower the INT to 0.
But in that case you should also keep the overall Torque level pretty low.
3 to 5 at most on the DD+
Click to expand...
Can confirm

Spent the past few days walking up and back down ndp, int, and ffb sensi(in game). Have the oscillations down to a lesser bounce, but its kinda worth it atm because the rest of the feedback is great.

I do wonder if the oscillations are the product of some of the weird physics bugs we’ve seen. During my time testing the acuderia in the TT, it crossed my mind that the oscillations may be caused by an overzealous response in game from road texture(s) the click, clack of a highway specifically.
 
Stupid question. And i only ask because its my wife’s weekend and im riding pine, until thursday…

..has anyone gone into fanalabs more advanced settings. I seem to recall being able to add speed based damper in one of the sub menu’s.

..anyone tried, or think its worth a shot? Would it work on ps5, or are those more advanced fanalab things pc only?
 

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