Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Several of us have mentioned this already in this thread, and on other forums including fanatec's own.

It seems to be an issue with the plastic QR as it doesn't happen with the metal QR lite.

Fanatec haven't responded to it, on their forums the response seems to be the default "send it in for RMA", which for us in the UK is a costly proposition. I'd rather they acknowledge the problem and send replacement qr lites to those affected.
Yeah I'm not going to spend another 100€ for a 5€ part, the boost kit was enough
 
Quick question: Is it normal for “The order is in process” to be my order status for multiple days?

I’ve ordered the standalone DD Pro base (among other things), so I imagine this won’t change until March 25 when it’s theoretically ready to ship.

I normally don’t order something unless it’s ready to ship, but I know this base’s release date will shift with demand after tracking the CSL DD for the last few months :)
 
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Quick question: Is it normal for “The order is in process” to be my order status for multiple days?

I’ve ordered the standalone DD Pro base (among other things), so I imagine this won’t change until March 25 when it’s theoretically ready to ship.

I normally don’t order something unless it’s ready to ship, but I know this base’s release date will shift with demand after tracking the CSL DD for the last few months :)
My Dd was "In process" for 4 days. Next thing was the email from ups to pay up on the tax....
 
Quick question: Is it normal for “The order is in process” to be my order status for multiple days?

I’ve ordered the standalone DD Pro base (among other things), so I imagine this won’t change until March 25 when it’s theoretically ready to ship.

I normally don’t order something unless it’s ready to ship, but I know this base’s release date will shift with demand after tracking the CSL DD for the last few months :)
My order from February 8th is still "in process"
 
Any reason other than the wheels to go with the Next Level Racing wheel stand DD over the 2.0 for the this wheel? Also, does anyone know if the chair wheel cradle can be remove from the 2.0?
2.0 folds up and the DD does not. So one is sturdier and the other can be stored more easily.
 
Several of us have mentioned this already in this thread, and on other forums including fanatec's own.

It seems to be an issue with the plastic QR as it doesn't happen with the metal QR lite.

Fanatec haven't responded to it, on their forums the response seems to be the default "send it in for RMA", which for us in the UK is a costly proposition. I'd rather they acknowledge the problem and send replacement qr lites to those affected.
Thanks again for your reply - I did some more reading and found e.g. this post:

It seems to be exactly what's happening. I'm just glad it's just that, because I was not 100% sure if it was the wheel/QR lite or something inside the wheel base.

I'll check the QR later if there's visible damage. Otherwise I'll probably just live with it or try to have it switched by customer support
 
Is this the right adapter for the GT DD Pro? https://fanatec.com/us-en/accessori...r1-wheel-side-clubsport-quick-release-adapter

It’s lame Fanatec doesn‘t at least recommend it when placing an order for the 8 Nm boost kit version as I now have to pay a separate shipping charge for it.
All Fanatec bases use the same quick release socket. If I remember rightly you don’t need the QR1 on a wheel for 8nm force, but it’s mandatory when you’re on the Podium rigs and want high torque.

You should be fine with the new plastic release that’s on the WRC wheel, at least with this base. I’m upgrading mine because I prefer the metal/spring connection to a twisty screw.
 
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I just hooked up my Clubsport V3 pedals. Left the gas pedal and brake, swapped the clutch for the D-shaped pedal. Changed accelerator spring from stock red to the stiffer black. I do have the performance kit but I wanted to see how the stock load cell brake pedal felt before stiffening it up.

What a huge difference. The stiff gas pedal allows better throttle modulation. The clutch feels incredible, just like a real car with that bite point built in to the hardware. And the load cell was very easy to transition to. It's not stiff at all compared to the G29 or CSL but, like the accelerator, allows better modulation. Maybe this weekend I will play with the performance kit because I do want the brake pedal to be stiffer.

All in all another great upgrade for my GT DD Pro.

BTW, I am one of those getting the thump on my GT rim using the plastic QR. I had mentioned I was getting graininess near the center using the WRC rim with metal QR. Now I realize I was wrong. It's the track surface detail in GT7 which for some reason disappears when the wheel is straight. So all good. But that plastic QR... I will let my daughter play with the GT rim + plastic, but no way I am using my McLaren rim again until my 2nd metal QR arrives.
 
Why do you guys hate Macintosh??
I doubt they hate Mac, it's just a numbers/finance game, Mac accounts for only about 15% of the desktop market, Fanatec products are for gaming which is dominated by Windows, the cost to create a Mac driver update tool probably isn't worth the money considered the number of Mac only users that buy Fanatec products.
 
Why do you guys hate Macintosh??
You could install Windows in a virtual machine and run the updater inside that. The Windows install ISO can be found somewhere on Microsoft's servers through a websearch and something like Parallels on Mac will allow you to install Windows inside a sandbox with USB access to the wheel.
It's how I updated my Thrustmaster firmware which also does not offer native Mac tools.
 
Would be nice to have hardware specifically built for the ps5 to be updated on the ps5.

That’s exactly what Fanatec should be doing. I understand that it’s probably not easy to build a PS5-specific application. But if they’re going to make an official console-specific(ish) wheel base, and charge a lot of money for it. I feel that’s not unfair of us to request that of them
 
That’s exactly what Fanatec should be doing. I understand that it’s probably not easy to build a PS5-specific application. But if they’re going to make an official console-specific(ish) wheel base, and charge a lot of money for it. I feel that’s not unfair of us to request that of them
It isn't unfair and would be awesome, but does Logitech, Thrustmaster or any other third-party accessory maker have this capability? No.

PlayStation is a closed platform and it would probably need to be an initiative by Sony to allow firmware updates via their platform like they have for their own devices.
 
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All Fanatec bases use the same quick release socket. If I remember rightly you don’t need the QR1 on a wheel for 8nm force, but it’s mandatory when you’re on the Podium rigs and want high torque.

You should be fine with the new plastic release that’s on the WRC wheel, at least with this base. I’m upgrading mine because I prefer the metal/spring connection to a twisty screw.
It's strange to see that you guys are talking about the metal quick release in regards to the DD Pro wheel.
When I asked Fanatec on Friday via their live chat, they told me that for the Gran Turismo Wheel I can't actually upgrade the quick release from plastic to metal and it would only be good for the Mclaren wheel for example. What is true in the end?

Also in regards to updating my pedal firmware, the control panel says that they need to be plugged in separately via usb and not via base. I wanted to order the Load Cell Kit (still unsure if this or v3...) and again Fanatec wasn't actually sure, if the usb cable is in the box, also saying that the fimware update should be done via base anyway. I was actually prepared to order LC Kit, Boost Kit, Metal Quick Release & USB Adaptor, but no confirmation could be given so now I'm waiting for their support hotline to open on Monday. Also the same in regards to what the v3 might offer better than LC Kit, when using just on PS5 with GT7, as I don't intend to use them on PC and just very slightly on other PS5 games.

Also another strange think and it happen just a few times, but did somebody else have a calibration issue on GT7 after a heavy crash when restarting and the wheel being centered incorrectly? I mean it's in a center position, but with a previously applied angle of 360 degrees and not being able to go back. I have to let the crash again to restart again, when it's in a central position, without applied rotation that I can't re-center.
I use all the default settings on the wheel with 5/5 in game so again pretty default stuff.

Otherwise I'm very happy with everything and I would just need a bit of guidance/clarification so I can order the upgrades and if perhaps there is any technical issue with my wheel (pedal firmware upgrade not possible, rare instances of calibration issues after a crash) or not?

@DomB_Fanatec
Sorry if I may ask dumb questions, but it's my first Fanatec wheel (purchased DD Pro Basic Bundle wanting now to upgrade it further), which arrived just in time before GT7, as having previously only ample experience with Logitech & Thrustmaster. Maybe you can help me?
 
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I don't see any reason why the metal QR couldn't be used on the GT rim. The plate and screws on the back look just like my other rims.
That was exactly my thinking and I had everything in cart, but just wanted to make sure before, so I entered the chat and I got the answer that it doesn't work...so it would be nice to hear if somebody tried so far.
 
Says on the fanatec website for GT DD Pro "Exchangeable QR1 Lite Wheel-Side quick release system"

Its the same as on the McLaren V2
 
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That was exactly my thinking and I had everything in cart, but just wanted to make sure before, so I entered the chat and I got the answer that it doesn't work...so it would be nice to hear if somebody tried so far.
One of the comments in this Reddit thread says he has done it. It doesn't make sense for it not to work. I mean, they show a plastic QR as a separate piece in your order. If it was different, it would say "QR Lite GT version" or something.

 
Still learning what settings do what, and I need a little help. Using GT DD Pro with boost kit. Ive been playing GT7 since launch with the settings that Fanatec listed for GTS. I'm now getting to the point where I'm moving to the fastest cars, and I'm finding weird effects now. Perfect example is the mission where you are doing a lap of Trial Mountain in the Mazda 787B. The whole way down the back straight the wheel was doing it's best to rip my arms off, rapidly throwing itself left and right for no apparent reason. I have just updated to Fanatecs recommended settings for GT7. It is a lot better, but the violent oscillation still kicks in toward the end of that straight (and I feel less detail for 'normal' driving, though it's not impossible that's just in my mind). What settings can I look to changing to help this? Or should I just put up with it in order to preserve decent feeling in 90% of the other cars in the game?

Also, just a bit of a whinge, but it feels like in GT7, a wheel developed FOR GT7 should be the one wheel that works perfectly with no adjusting of settings. There is even an automatic mode on the wheel that supposedly uses the recommended settings baked into the game. But we're still required to go hunting for official settings somewhere else. 🤷‍♂️

Edit: and I'm also starting to get the weird clunk from the QR, but that's been covered by lots of people before.
 
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Also, just a bit of a whinge, but it feels like in GT7, a wheel developed FOR GT7 should be the one wheel that works perfectly with no adjusting of settings. There is even an automatic mode on the wheel that supposedly uses the recommended settings baked into the game. But we're still required to go hunting for official settings somewhere else. 🤷‍♂️

Is was thinking the exact same thing but have come to change my mind lately. A lot of settings are personal preference and priorities. There's not one optimal setting for anyone.
I'm a fit male and have no injuries in my shoulders, hands or wrists. I'm also experienced enough to not be sloppy with my wheel and get slapped across my fingers when it snaps. I also use a 28 cm wheel and I'm in it for online competition, nothing else. So what suits me might not suit someone else who's built differently or wants to replicate a specific sensation from their real-life car, or uses a much bigger wheel.

I'm very satisfied and happy having the opportunity to tune these settings for myself. Other wheels don't have this.
 
@HugoTwoWheels Yeah, I totally agree that it's great that we can alter it to our needs, and I certainly want to delve deeper into that in time. I think my frustration was that it shouldn't be a requirement. And that in 'auto' mode on the wheel it should automatically pull the recommended PD/Fanatec settings and apply those.
 
@HugoTwoWheels Yeah, I totally agree that it's great that we can alter it to our needs, and I certainly want to delve deeper into that in time. I think my frustration was that it shouldn't be a requirement. And that in 'auto' mode on the wheel it should automatically pull the recommended PD/Fanatec settings and apply those.

Even the recommended settings are much more aggressive than the stock ones. My personal settings are even more aggressive. I'm not sure people who do this for the first time with 8 Nm should try the recommended settings first.

With aggressive I mean quick/harsh. My settings actually scare people trying it for the first time. And I'm hesitant to letting women try it with these settings (smaller and weaker hands).
 
There is even an automatic mode on the wheel that supposedly uses the recommended settings baked into the game. But we're still required to go hunting for official settings somewhere else
And the auto settings are a million miles away from the recommended settings. Very strange.
 
These are my best settings i found for GT7. It’s been tough because I honestly don’t believe GT7’s FFB coding is as good as it was in GTS. As for firmware updates fir console guys. Yea… I think they need to figure out a way to make it easier for Non PC users. Fanatec are the juggernauts of the sim racing world. If they’re going to pursue the console market heavily, I think it’s the right thing to do. Anywaaaaaaayz, here’s my settings

In game:
Controller sensitivity: -2
FFB max Torque:10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Base:
Sensitivity: auto/manual set
FFB: 58-62
Linearity: 0
Natural damper: off
Friction: off
Interpolation: off
FEI: 100
FORCE: 120
Spring: off
BRF: user preference (but I use 80)
 
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These are my best settings i found for GT7. It’s been tough because I honestly don’t believe GT7’s FFB coding is as good as it was in GTS. As for firmware updates fir console guys. Yea… I think they need to figure out a way to make it easier for Non PC users. Fanatec are the juggernauts of the sim racing world. If they’re going to pursue the console market heavily, I think it’s the right thing to do. Anywaaaaaaayz, here’s my settings

In game:
Controller sensitivity: -2
FFB max Torque:10
FFB sensitivity: 1

Base:
Sensitivity: auto/manual set
FFB: 58-62
Linearity: 0
Natural damper: off
Friction: off
Interpolation: off
FEI: 100
FORCE: 120
Spring: off
BRF: user preference (but I use 80)
Why are you pushing the FFB to max in game and lowering it so much on the wheel?
 
Z28 gaming on the YouTube’s turned me onto it in one of his vids. His reasonings make sense, and he’s been playing this game for a while. I then used this setting (a variation of Z’s settings) and compared it to Fanatec’s recommended settings, and a variation of Fanatec’s settings that I came up with. To me, the ones I posted felt the best and gave me the most detail.

It’s just a shame IMO that GT7’s FFB coding isn’t up to the likes of ACC. Even with ACC’s nerfed FFB on their recent PS5 update, it’s still waaaay more communicative than Gran Turismo

No biggie tho, I still love both games!
 
It's strange to see that you guys are talking about the metal quick release in regards to the DD Pro wheel.
When I asked Fanatec on Friday via their live chat, they told me that for the Gran Turismo Wheel I can't actually upgrade the quick release from plastic to metal and it would only be good for the Mclaren wheel for example. What is true in the end?
QR1 is compatible with GT DD Pro.

DSC01126.JPG


Also in regards to updating my pedal firmware, the control panel says that they need to be plugged in separately via usb and not via base.
That is correct.
Note: Both stock CSL pedals (without Load Cell) cannot be updated.
ClubSport Pedals V3 and CSL Load Cell Kit comes with a USB cable in the package.
 
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One of the comments in this Reddit thread says he has done it. It doesn't make sense for it not to work. I mean, they show a plastic QR as a separate piece in your order. If it was different, it would say "QR Lite GT version" or something.


I can confirm the QR1 works well with the DD Pro wheel rim.


Jerome
 
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