Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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R55NA
VAT paid this morning. Love living in the UK right now :cheers:

Requested for the delivery to be changed to Friday the 18th.. hopefully with the VAT paid, it can come through quicker.
Click to expand...
Did u manage to change delivery to Friday?. My order also states delivery for Monday. Uk.
 
HugoTwoWheels
Has anyone experimented with FF Scale LINEAR/PEAK?
I just tried linear in GT7 after having dismissed it in GTS, and I actually prefer it. Especially with cars like the stock Porsche 930 at Nürburgring. With 5/1 in-game and 100% FF on 8 Nm it feels excellent. However, I imagine it might be too weak on 5 Nm...

What LINEAR does it reduces max torque to the max holding torque, so everything becomes a bit weaker but it ensures you that the wheel never clips. I hate clipping (and so should you).
Click to expand...
The FFS setting is not related to clipping. Clipping is something controlled by the game signal, not the wheel base. (In the case of GT7, a 'Force Feedback Max Torque' value that is too high can cause the signal to clip in some cars.) No matter what mode the base is running in (even with a very low FF value for example), you can still send the base a clipped signal from a game and it will still feel bad. FFS Linear turns down the max performance of the motor to the point where a repeated set of high torque commands will not cause a temporary derating (above the holding torque value). There are very few normal driving scenarios where this can happen, so I recommend staying in FFS Peak in order to enjoy the highest performance from the motor.
 
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DomB_Fanatec
The FFS setting is not related to clipping. Clipping is something controlled by the game signal, not the wheel base. (In the case of GT7, a 'Force Feedback Max Torque' value that is too high can cause the signal to clip in some cars.) No matter what mode the base is running in (even with very a low FF value for example), you can still send the base a clipped signal from a game and it will still feel bad. FFS Linear turns down the max performance of the motor to the point where a repeated set of high torque commands will not cause a temporary derating (above the holding torque value). There are very few normal driving scenarios where this can happen, so I recommend staying in FFS Peak in order to enjoy the highest performance from the motor.
Click to expand...

What a pleasant surprise seeing you respond and explain this. Thanks! I'm sure we all value and appreciate your input!
 
Just a question out of curiosity, but tell me please what are your In Game FFB Settings for Torque and Sensitivity in GT7.
I don’t know if the following matters but I’m using the 8nm power supply.
Currently I’m absolutely having a blast playing GT7 on the dd pro.
The FFB feels incredibly detailed and very authentic.
I bought it just yesterday but wasn’t able to enjoy it because of the Server being down.
Today I finally gave it a go and it feels unnormal. So good. The Physics are phenomenal.
But anyway I’m awaiting some answers 😅
 
PirovacBoy
Just a question out of curiosity, but tell me please what are your In Game FFB Settings for Torque and Sensitivity in GT7.
I don’t know if the following matters but I’m using the 8nm power supply.
Currently I’m absolutely having a blast playing GT7 on the dd pro.
The FFB feels incredibly detailed and very authentic.
I bought it just yesterday but wasn’t able to enjoy it because of the Server being down.
Today I finally gave it a go and it feels unnormal. So good. The Physics are phenomenal.
But anyway I’m awaiting some answers 😅
Click to expand...
@HugoTwoWheels and myself are in-game FFB 5/1.
 
I’ve settled at 3 for max torque with gr3 and even down to 2 if a long session, and I’m only using the 5nm. I’ve got the 8nm coming next week so I’m intrigued how much of a difference it will have.
 
HugoTwoWheels
Yep! But for race cars, I decrease max torque, because I get too fatigued and sore - and slower. 3 is good for me with gr.3 cars.
For the sketchiest road cars, 5 and 100% FF on 8 Nm is needed for me to have proper control (and to not whine/complain about the physics as people in the physics thread do).
Click to expand...
I am back on the standard power supply now, and I am finding it pretty good at this stage. I have not tried the RWD cars as yet since the new update.
 
Mine is due on Monday - can’t wait!

New to Fanatec so can someone just advise on what I’ll need to do? Assume the instructions will be enough but would be good to have an idea of what’s needed.

Guess I’ll need to check for a FW update? Also just bought the McLaren GT3 rim which I suspect will need an update.

Do I need to do any calibration whilst hooked to a laptop? I was kinda hoping it’s just plug and play!

Think I read I need some M6 bolts as it doesn’t come with any? - how many? - will be fixed to a next level wheel stand DD

Then settings wise, I need to do settings via GT7 itself but then also the wheel? Will run the Fanatec recommended setting to start.

I’ll be running the boost kit and the loadcell

Any comments would be appreciated 👍🏼
 
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priesty_lfc
Mine is due on Monday - can’t wait!

New to Fanatec so can some just advise on what I’ll need to do? Assume the instructions will be enough but would be good to have an idea of what’s needed.

Guess I’ll need to check forcc C a FW update? Also just bought the McLaren GT3 rim which I suspect will need an update.

Do I need to do any calibration whilst hooked to a laptop? I was kinda hoping it’s just plug and play!

Think I read I need some M6 bolts as it doesn’t come with any? - how many? - will be fixed to a next level wheel stand DD

Then settings wise, I need to do settings via GT7 itself but then also the wheel? Will run the Fanatec recommended setting to start.

I’ll be running the boost kit and the loadcell

Any comments would be appreciated 👍🏼
Click to expand...
It can be plug and play. There are updates you will need a pc for. I honestly don’t know if it’s worth doing, loads of people haven’t bothered or can’t do it and have had no problems. All settings can be adjusted on the wheel, and you can have 5 saved presets.
You will need m6x12mm bolts. I have four on my omega titan, one on each corner, you can also just use three in a triangle like formation. Depends on cutouts your wheelplate has.
 
priesty_lfc
Do I need to do any calibration whilst hooked to a laptop? I was kinda hoping it’s just plug and play!

Think I read I need some M6 bolts as it doesn’t come with any? - how many? - will be fixed to a next level wheel stand DD
Click to expand...
Update the firmware at some point if you can, but it's all plug and play so no need to worry about it.

The wheelbase takes 4xM6 and the pedals 4xM6. I just used the ones that came with my Next Level Wheel Stand 2.0. My pedals have only two bolts since I didn't have ones that were long enough for the front, but that has not been an issue so far.
 
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Can anyone explain what INT I think it’s interpolation does and how it works. In GT7 for example.
And what about NDP?!
What the hell is all of that 😅
I have no idea, honestly, I just use the Custom Setup for GT7 lowered the NDP to 30 and Brake Force to 50.
Feels perfectly fine. Very very detailed and super smooth.
My in game settings for FFB are Torque at 3 and Sensitivity at 3 too. I use them for all cars.
Extremely satisfied with these Settings.
I can feel everything I need to drive fast and safe. I can feel the Rear Tires loose traction and quickly counter steer.
Overall I’m very happy with the GT DD Pro combined with the Load Cell Pedals and 8 nm Power Supply.
I don’t think I’m ever gonna need another Wheel 😁 well done Fanatec 😘
 
PirovacBoy
Can anyone explain what INT I think it’s interpolation does and how it works.
Click to expand...
From Fanatec:
"Force Interpolation “INT” (similar to the ‘Reconstruction Filter’ on OSW/SimuCube) filters and smoothens the incoming rough game FFB signal and increases the refresh rate. For example a 60Hz FFB signal (e.g. iRacing) looks like rough steps on a graph and can also feel like this, but using Force Interpolation, the signal is recreated as a smooth curve. In comparison to FEI, this filter is a lot more powerful as it doesn't influence latency as much, has a better smoothing algorithm and doesn't eliminate effects completely.

Some short tips for finding good settings INT:
  • As low as possible and only as high as needed.
  • Increase if you feel too much noise
  • Decrease if you feel too less details
  • Games with smooth FFB and high update rate you probably will have it at 1-3 or even OFF
  • Games with rough FFB and low update rate you probably want it higher like 4-6 or even more"

PirovacBoy
And what about NDP?!
Click to expand...
From Fanatec:
"Natural Damper provides additional damping which can be adjusted from OFF to 100. 100 will have the strongest damping effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If turned OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the steering wheel. Natural Damper is useful for controlling the speed of the wheel during oversteer, and also helps to reduce wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors. The default value of 50 provides a balance between steering responsiveness and oscillation mitigation."

An experienced person can drive with NDP off without any problems.
An inexperienced person should use NDP, but do not overdo it because details are lost.
 
super_gt
From Fanatec:
"Force Interpolation “INT” (similar to the ‘Reconstruction Filter’ on OSW/SimuCube) filters and smoothens the incoming rough game FFB signal and increases the refresh rate. For example a 60Hz FFB signal (e.g. iRacing) looks like rough steps on a graph and can also feel like this, but using Force Interpolation, the signal is recreated as a smooth curve. In comparison to FEI, this filter is a lot more powerful as it doesn't influence latency as much, has a better smoothing algorithm and doesn't eliminate effects completely.

Some short tips for finding good settings INT:
  • As low as possible and only as high as needed.
  • Increase if you feel too much noise
  • Decrease if you feel too less details
  • Games with smooth FFB and high update rate you probably will have it at 1-3 or even OFF
  • Games with rough FFB and low update rate you probably want it higher like 4-6 or even more"


From Fanatec:
"Natural Damper provides additional damping which can be adjusted from OFF to 100. 100 will have the strongest damping effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If turned OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the steering wheel. Natural Damper is useful for controlling the speed of the wheel during oversteer, and also helps to reduce wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors. The default value of 50 provides a balance between steering responsiveness and oscillation mitigation."

An experienced person can drive with NDP off without any problems.
An inexperienced person should use NDP, but do not overdo it because details are lost.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for explaining all this. Much appreciated 😁
Personally, I don’t feel the need to change anything anymore.
I‘m very happy with the Feeling in GT7 but good to know for other Games maybe.
Can’t go wrong knowing these things
 
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super_gt
From Fanatec:
"Force Interpolation “INT” (similar to the ‘Reconstruction Filter’ on OSW/SimuCube) filters and smoothens the incoming rough game FFB signal and increases the refresh rate. For example a 60Hz FFB signal (e.g. iRacing) looks like rough steps on a graph and can also feel like this, but using Force Interpolation, the signal is recreated as a smooth curve. In comparison to FEI, this filter is a lot more powerful as it doesn't influence latency as much, has a better smoothing algorithm and doesn't eliminate effects completely.

Some short tips for finding good settings INT:
  • As low as possible and only as high as needed.
  • Increase if you feel too much noise
  • Decrease if you feel too less details
  • Games with smooth FFB and high update rate you probably will have it at 1-3 or even OFF
  • Games with rough FFB and low update rate you probably want it higher like 4-6 or even more"


From Fanatec:
"Natural Damper provides additional damping which can be adjusted from OFF to 100. 100 will have the strongest damping effect which reacts to the acceleration and angle of your steering. If turned OFF, your steering will have no additional damping, making it easier to turn the steering wheel. Natural Damper is useful for controlling the speed of the wheel during oversteer, and also helps to reduce wheel oscillation. Oscillation is typically caused by latency in the feedback loop, and is more apparent in racing games that are not optimised for high-torque motors. The default value of 50 provides a balance between steering responsiveness and oscillation mitigation."

An experienced person can drive with NDP off without any problems.
An inexperienced person should use NDP, but do not overdo it because details are lost.
Click to expand...

Exactly. That's why I've been suggesting INT 1 and NDP Off.
INT 0 is buzzy and harsh, while 6 is smooth and rubbery.
NDP Off I'd only recommend for experienced people. FF 100 and NDP Off might actually hurt if sloppy...

FFB sens in-game should no matter what be kept at 1. Especially with a strong wheelbase as this one.

I love this wheel, being able to customize it like this.
 
Hey @HugoTwoWheels i just tried a slightly modified Variant of your recommended Settings for GT7.
The Driving feels even better now having them applied.
I‘m very pleased with these Settings, thanks for your advices here, good work 👍
BTW, this Wheel is the best I’ve ever owned too good 😁
 
1 more question please, how do I Save a custom made setup. The Problem I have is that my Settings applied in the Advanced Tuning Menu don’t stay saved.
As soon as I switch to another profile and then switch back to Set1 for example, everything is set back to default, i can’t imagine that is how it’s supposed to be.
I mean what’s the point in having 5 Setup Options if none stays saved 🤔
 
PirovacBoy
1 more question please, how do I Save a custom made setup. The Problem I have is that my Settings applied in the Advanced Tuning Menu don’t stay saved.
As soon as I switch to another profile and then switch back to Set1 for example, everything is set back to default, i can’t imagine that is how it’s supposed to be.
I mean what’s the point in having 5 Setup Options if none stays saved 🤔
Click to expand...
if you press the setup button again after you’ve made your changes it will say ‘set 1’ or whatever set you’re adjusting and it will be saved
 
PirovacBoy
1 more question please, how do I Save a custom made setup. The Problem I have is that my Settings applied in the Advanced Tuning Menu don’t stay saved.
As soon as I switch to another profile and then switch back to Set1 for example, everything is set back to default, i can’t imagine that is how it’s supposed to be.
I mean what’s the point in having 5 Setup Options if none stays saved 🤔
Click to expand...

Can you make a video?
 
NikNakTobasco
if you press the setup button again after you’ve made your changes it will say ‘set 1’ or whatever set you’re adjusting and it will be saved
Click to expand...
That’s what I’m doing, strange.
For example I long press the tuning button and I switch to advanced mode.
From there I have the possibility to switch between auto setup, set1,2,3,4,5.
I choose Set 1 apply some settings and than I press the tuning button again. The Display turns off then and my Settings should be saved from my understanding. And they do so.
But as soon as I switch back to the default Tuning Mode, and than back to Advanced Mode, my Set1 Settings are restored to default Values and I have to do it all over again.
So as long as I don’t switch between Standard and Advanced Tuning Mode everything keeps saved.
 

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