Em. Have you never driven a race car going quicker than parking lot or car-park speeds? Or anything with slicks? The resistance drastically reduces as your pace increases. Like an unbelievable reduction. The wheels are hardest to turn at a complete stop with no PS system. The resistance in steering also depends on a lot of settings. The biggest on a well setup car is accel and decel diff lock. If you're running 75% lock, yeah, turning will blow. If you're running 25% or progressice...that is childs play. And aside from being 5'9", I am horse jockey size and weigh about 145...still don't have problems turning wheels on slicks in a 2xxx pound car, sprint kart, etc. At speed, that is. At a stop, like I said, I've got to put some muscle into it.Have you raced a real car? Most wheels need the FFB set high to feel anything like a real car. Otherwise there just isn't enough resistance to feel realistic.
Maybe sims should start giving us seperate sliders for steering weight, and another for force feedback because when they only give us a couple options we need to make due with what we have.
And what we have in GT6 isn't good enough. They ruined what was some of the best FFB
Please dont be a smart a**, just reporting driving sensations... Constructive criticism is much more aprecciated...
Please dont be a smart a**, just reporting driving sensations... Constructive criticism is much more aprecciated...
your settings?Loving it on DFGT. The wheel is a lot lighter around the centre but weights up really nicely as you increase the steering lock. In road cars and other race cars like the MKIV it's lighter than full on race cars like the Toyota 7 (which now requires quite a physical effort to pilot around for more than 10/15 minutes).
Overall it's a much more progressive feel, far more realistic to me (and much more PC sim like). It's also meant that my wheel went for 2 hours this morning and barely got warm.
I wasn't being a smart a**, I was trying to figure out what DS3 discussion has to do with a force feedback thread. 👍
My DS3 feels numb now... Have to check the settings...
EDIT: CSS for DS3 much more realistic (-2 - simulates FF, 7 - not so responsive)
What do you drive on 235s, that you can't turn the wheel with your finger. That is ridiculous. I could do this in my E36M track car. At a stop? No...but that sort of torque would break a DFGT or G wheel. You would twist the wheel off the logitech column. Like I said - motion changes the story completely in terms of resistance. Our wheels can't handle true, real life torque levels and such. You need a fanatec or bodnar (sp?). G wheels and thrustmasters can't replicate legitimate, real life driving between torque and road feel. If the motors didn't burn out in a week, something would snap. I've snapped steering column knuckles and guibos made from serious steel on my E36 at a stop. Once I was moving, but only turning the car around as I was letting it cool down.I understand what they did. There is only so much force the wheel can generate. To get more feel you need less rotation resistance.
I got an old DFP and it's horrible now. The problem is that I was already at 10 to replicate real car feel (I don't know what/if you guys drive but my 1500kg car with 235mm front tires and -2 camber won't let me turn the wheel with one finger).
So now I have nowhere to go.
The game is ruined for me.
This.^
your settings?
I could never understand people running g25/27 on ffb10. You could hardly move the wheel. All the subtleness and feeling was removed. I used mine on ffb3 which seemed to give a good weight and feeling for almost all cars.
You've obviously never done Karting in real life... You can't really move the wheel unless you're moving, and even then you have to go fast to be able to turn it to a easily.
If you had it on 10, yes, you think it felt right and that you felt everything. I had it on ten from day one until this past spring and felt like I had been pissing the wheel away. For certain, you are not/were not feeling everything that you could. No matter how much you think you do. Been there mang.You've obviously never done Karting in real life... You can't really move the wheel unless you're moving, and even then you have to go fast to be able to turn it to a easily.
@332i - FFB 10 felt fine to me, I could tell the differences between everything going on with the feedback and was pretty quick with it too. I think setting it to 10 and not having the Simulation settings to go with it is stupid, but using the Sim settings as well as the 10 FFB gave the car a realistic feel, and I did say racing cars. Those things without power-steering and wheels so heavy you have to do 100+ mph to turn them easily. Which was reflected in GT6... Besides, I'm heavy handed and 10 felt right.
I'm slowly getting used to the new FFB style but it's still lacking slightly. I do like that the high grip and high downforce cars tend to be harder to steer but road cars are like turning a ships wheel, there's nothing there. I do like that you can feel the rumble strips more clearly now instead of it just being a judder on the wheel though.
What do you drive on 235s, that you can't turn the wheel with your finger?
Ok, well my commuter car is an e46, coincidentally lol. Can easily turn wheel at a stop with my pinky. That's not with the crappy boosted '01 steering rack either. 2005 zcp rack. Shortest lock I've ever had in a road car. No problem. Like I said, I am horse jockey size, besides height. A string bean.E46 and I really like the way it feels. I guess I drive a bit faster in the game than the real life. Yes, RL resistance goes down, I understand. But the game just feels way too light (and the deadzone is just brutal).
I understand it's personal preference. I was thinking about buying a better wheel anyway.
You've obviously never done Karting in real life... You can't really move the wheel unless you're moving, and even then you have to go fast to be able to turn it to a easily.
@332i - FFB 10 felt fine to me, I could tell the differences between everything going on with the feedback and was pretty quick with it too. I think setting it to 10 and not having the Simulation settings to go with it is stupid, but using the Sim settings as well as the 10 FFB gave the car a realistic feel, and I did say racing cars. Those things without power-steering and wheels so heavy you have to do 100+ mph to turn them easily. Which was reflected in GT6... Besides, I'm heavy handed and 10 felt right.
Yep. Even F1.As far as I am aware virtually all modern racing categories employ power steering.
If that is the case than gt6 broke my wheel with their incompatible settings which were marketed as compatible and I want a new one. Where do I file a claim?Putting it on a 10 in GT6 was sooo bad for it lol. Glad I didn't do it for long.
It also feels like the front of the car is skipping all the time.
Em. Have you never driven a race car going quicker than parking lot or car-park speeds? Or anything with slicks? The resistance drastically reduces as your pace increases. Like an unbelievable reduction. The wheels are hardest to turn at a complete stop with no PS system. The resistance in steering also depends on a lot of settings. The biggest on a well setup car is accel and decel diff lock. If you're running 75% lock, yeah, turning will blow. If you're running 25% or progressice...that is childs play. And aside from being 5'9", I am horse jockey size and weigh about 145...still don't have problems turning wheels on slicks in a 2xxx pound car, sprint kart, etc. At speed, that is. At a stop, like I said, I've got to put some muscle into it.