Gran Turismo 7 Engine Swap Compatibility

  • Thread starter Famine
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I’ve been sitting on a 2JZ for over a month, and it seems that a couple more options for the swap have opened up. Of the three possible cars, is there a recommended one to swap the Supra engine to? To my small brain, it appears close to a toss-up. Apologies if this isn’t the place to ask this question.
 
I’ve been sitting on a 2JZ for over a month, and it seems that a couple more options for the swap have opened up. Of the three possible cars, is there a recommended one to swap the Supra engine to? To my small brain, it appears close to a toss-up. Apologies if this isn’t the place to ask this question.
The GR86/BRZ are probably the better choice to swap the 2JZ into compared to the S15, as the S15 can get more power out of its stock engine than the 86/BRZ. Personally, though, I'd wait for next update, in case even more options open up.
 
After seeing the absolute hell it could raise on Route X, I’ve started slowly tinkering with the drift LS swapped Silvia. My end goal is to make it usable to beat the WTC700 championship, as my build maxed out on the S14 and it just wasn’t fast enough on the first two tracks to make it happen.

So far I’ve only upgraded it with a custom transmission, clutch, racing brake pads, sports hard tires, wide body+offset, and racing suspension on default setup. I haven’t reduced weight or added aero yet.

I compared to a stock Qs and made note that there was no change indicated in the weight distribution ratio stat stock vs swapped, but there’s certainly an odd feel with the new engine with no power or brake applied. The engine adds 200lbs to the front, and from the major weight increase so far on one end, it’s adopted some characteristics that remind me of an RR car. At “low-medium” speeds (relatively speaking, given this thing can hit close to 270mph with barely any time spent setting up the transmission) off throttle it gives a sensation a bit like what RR liftoff oversteer feels like. However it’s more like it’s penduluming around the engine bay, with the front wheels gripping reasonably well and just not enough pushing the rears into the road. Adding light throttle balances the car a little, but slightly too much unsurprisingly snaps the rear, given the 1000hp power plant. A spoiler would undoubtedly assist massively, but I want to try some suspension adjustments to see how far small traction improvements go. In it’s current state feathered throttle and several gears too high is necessary to keep it on track in the corners.

Someone mentioned the part availability is tied to the engine, and I believe that’s true (or rather I think power upgrades are tied to the engine, weight/stiffness upgrades are tied to the body/chassis). The only power upgrade I have available is the high RPM turbo (though interestingly the engine swap makes a racing exhaust standard), and I have weight stages 1-3 and chassis stiffening available. I don’t have the drift car so if someone else does it’s be interesting what weight options ot has by comparison.

Another funny tidbit, the turbo, which would increase HP by around 160, would only add 0.4 PP. Installing rear bumper B added ~2.5 PP. :lol: :lol: :lol:

495E6708-0DE2-46A3-A66D-81D0BF094103.jpeg


Obviously it doesn’t need any more power, but I will experiment with that eventually. For now I’m going to see how drivable I can make it bit by bit without just resorting to RS tires.

I think this swap is really only useful for a drift or drag build to the common user, and will pretty much mandate deeper tuning knowledge if you want to use it for anything else.
 
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"Honda
K20C1-Civic-'20 - Honda Civic (EK) Type R '98, Honda Integra (DC2) Type R '98, Mini Cooper S '65"

what is the best choice here?
 
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End
"Honda
K20C1-Civic-'20 - Honda Civic (EK) Type R '98, Honda Integra (DC2) Type R '98, Mini Cooper S '65"

what is the best choice here?
I put it in the Mini, but am having serious problems with it. It definitely requires tuning.
 
End
"Honda
K20C1-Civic-'20 - Honda Civic (EK) Type R '98, Honda Integra (DC2) Type R '98, Mini Cooper S '65"

what is the best choice here?
The best one is the one you'll actually use.

If you like the cuvic or integra then do that, if you prefer the mini then do that.

Bear in mind there are different events that each car is eligible for
 
After seeing the absolute hell it could raise on Route X, I’ve started slowly tinkering with the drift LS swapped Silvia. My end goal is to make it usable to beat the WTC700 championship, as my build maxed out on the S14 and it just wasn’t fast enough on the first two tracks to make it happen.

So far I’ve only upgraded it with a custom transmission, clutch, racing brake pads, sports hard tires, wide body+offset, and racing suspension on default setup. I haven’t reduced weight or added aero yet.

I compared to a stock Qs and made note that there was no change indicated in the weight distribution ratio stat stock vs swapped, but there’s certainly an odd feel with the new engine with no power or brake applied. The engine adds 200lbs to the front, and from the major weight increase so far on one end, it’s adopted some characteristics that remind me of an RR car. At “low-medium” speeds (relatively speaking, given this thing can hit close to 270mph with barely any time spent setting up the transmission) off throttle it gives a sensation a bit like what RR liftoff oversteer feels like. However it’s more like it’s penduluming around the engine bay, with the front wheels gripping reasonably well and just not enough pushing the rears into the road. Adding light throttle balances the car a little, but slightly too much unsurprisingly snaps the rear, given the 1000hp power plant. A spoiler would undoubtedly assist massively, but I want to try some suspension adjustments to see how far small traction improvements go. In it’s current state feathered throttle and several gears too high is necessary to keep it on track in the corners.

Someone mentioned the part availability is tied to the engine, and I believe that’s true (or rather I think power upgrades are tied to the engine, weight/stiffness upgrades are tied to the body/chassis). The only power upgrade I have available is the high RPM turbo (though interestingly the engine swap makes a racing exhaust standard), and I have weight stages 1-3 and chassis stiffening available. I don’t have the drift car so if someone else does it’s be interesting what weight options ot has by comparison.

Another funny tidbit, the turbo, which would increase HP by around 160, would only add 0.4 PP. Installing rear bumper B added ~2.5 PP. :lol: :lol: :lol:

View attachment 1161142

Obviously it doesn’t need any more power, but I will experiment with that eventually. For now I’m going to see how drivable I can make it bit by bit without just resorting to RS tires.

I think this swap is really only useful for a drift or drag build to the common user, and will pretty much mandate deeper tuning knowledge if you want to use it for anything else.
Don't forget... If by some dumb stroke of luck you win an ultra-high turbo for the BRZ drift car, you can put it in that beast of a Silvia instead. Not that it needs more power, or torque... Perhaps Super Soft tyres would be better for it. 😂
 
After seeing the absolute hell it could raise on Route X, I’ve started slowly tinkering with the drift LS swapped Silvia. My end goal is to make it usable to beat the WTC700 championship, as my build maxed out on the S14 and it just wasn’t fast enough on the first two tracks to make it happen.

So far I’ve only upgraded it with a custom transmission, clutch, racing brake pads, sports hard tires, wide body+offset, and racing suspension on default setup. I haven’t reduced weight or added aero yet.

I compared to a stock Qs and made note that there was no change indicated in the weight distribution ratio stat stock vs swapped, but there’s certainly an odd feel with the new engine with no power or brake applied. The engine adds 200lbs to the front, and from the major weight increase so far on one end, it’s adopted some characteristics that remind me of an RR car. At “low-medium” speeds (relatively speaking, given this thing can hit close to 270mph with barely any time spent setting up the transmission) off throttle it gives a sensation a bit like what RR liftoff oversteer feels like. However it’s more like it’s penduluming around the engine bay, with the front wheels gripping reasonably well and just not enough pushing the rears into the road. Adding light throttle balances the car a little, but slightly too much unsurprisingly snaps the rear, given the 1000hp power plant. A spoiler would undoubtedly assist massively, but I want to try some suspension adjustments to see how far small traction improvements go. In it’s current state feathered throttle and several gears too high is necessary to keep it on track in the corners.

Someone mentioned the part availability is tied to the engine, and I believe that’s true (or rather I think power upgrades are tied to the engine, weight/stiffness upgrades are tied to the body/chassis). The only power upgrade I have available is the high RPM turbo (though interestingly the engine swap makes a racing exhaust standard), and I have weight stages 1-3 and chassis stiffening available. I don’t have the drift car so if someone else does it’s be interesting what weight options ot has by comparison.

Another funny tidbit, the turbo, which would increase HP by around 160, would only add 0.4 PP. Installing rear bumper B added ~2.5 PP. :lol: :lol: :lol:

View attachment 1161142

Obviously it doesn’t need any more power, but I will experiment with that eventually. For now I’m going to see how drivable I can make it bit by bit without just resorting to RS tires.

I think this swap is really only useful for a drift or drag build to the common user, and will pretty much mandate deeper tuning knowledge if you want to use it for anything else.
“For now I’m going to see how drivable I can make it bit by bit without just resorting to RS tires.”

This isn’t an attack or judgement in any way, but why is it that many people feel the need to not use racing tires on fully modified street cars? Take into consideration the fact that the highest stage of weight reduction, increasing body rigidity, and adding a roll cage is what’s done to purpose built track cars, not stuff you drive on the street legally. Again, I’m not saying anything negative about anyone, but it just seems silly to me to place this restriction on a build that you wouldn’t place on yourself in real life. People use slicks all the time unless the rules of the class you’re racing in say otherwise, and anything letting you run an 1100hp car that weights next to nothing and running at actual circuits certainly wouldn’t be heavily restricted. For roll racing I can understand the sport soft being the preferred tire but to emulate that highway feel, but even then many many cars are using slicks even on the street. I personally went all out tuning my LT1 swapped Miata in GT7 and I’ve got it to the point where it’s not overly difficult to lay down highly competitive lap times against other fully built road cars and the only driver aids I use is ABS. I’ll link a YT video of a lap around deep forest (that’s my test/tune track). Again, not attacking or judging, just curious why people lay that restriction upon themselves.

TLDR: Why try avoiding race tires on fully built street cars?

 
“For now I’m going to see how drivable I can make it bit by bit without just resorting to RS tires.”

This isn’t an attack or judgement in any way, but why is it that many people feel the need to not use racing tires on fully modified street cars? Take into consideration the fact that the highest stage of weight reduction, increasing body rigidity, and adding a roll cage is what’s done to purpose built track cars, not stuff you drive on the street legally. Again, I’m not saying anything negative about anyone, but it just seems silly to me to place this restriction on a build that you wouldn’t place on yourself in real life. People use slicks all the time unless the rules of the class you’re racing in say otherwise, and anything letting you run an 1100hp car that weights next to nothing and running at actual circuits certainly wouldn’t be heavily restricted. For roll racing I can understand the sport soft being the preferred tire but to emulate that highway feel, but even then many many cars are using slicks even on the street. I personally went all out tuning my LT1 swapped Miata in GT7 and I’ve got it to the point where it’s not overly difficult to lay down highly competitive lap times against other fully built road cars and the only driver aids I use is ABS. I’ll link a YT video of a lap around deep forest (that’s my test/tune track). Again, not attacking or judging, just curious why people lay that restriction upon themselves.

TLDR: Why try avoiding race tires on fully built street cars?


Anything over about 600hp should be on racing tyres when possible, in my eyes. Unless it's a drift car, then sports tyres or even comfort tyres...
 
Anything over about 600hp should be on racing tyres when possible, in my eyes. Unless it's a drift car, then sports tyres or even comfort tyres...
Agreed. Especially when factoring in stage 3/4 weight reduction is guaranteed to remove things that will render the car no longer street legal. At that point you have a race/track only car so might as well use the tires meant for the track
 
After seeing the absolute hell it could raise on Route X, I’ve started slowly tinkering with the drift LS swapped Silvia. My end goal is to make it usable to beat the WTC700 championship, as my build maxed out on the S14 and it just wasn’t fast enough on the first two tracks to make it happen.

So far I’ve only upgraded it with a custom transmission, clutch, racing brake pads, sports hard tires, wide body+offset, and racing suspension on default setup. I haven’t reduced weight or added aero yet.

I compared to a stock Qs and made note that there was no change indicated in the weight distribution ratio stat stock vs swapped, but there’s certainly an odd feel with the new engine with no power or brake applied. The engine adds 200lbs to the front, and from the major weight increase so far on one end, it’s adopted some characteristics that remind me of an RR car. At “low-medium” speeds (relatively speaking, given this thing can hit close to 270mph with barely any time spent setting up the transmission) off throttle it gives a sensation a bit like what RR liftoff oversteer feels like. However it’s more like it’s penduluming around the engine bay, with the front wheels gripping reasonably well and just not enough pushing the rears into the road. Adding light throttle balances the car a little, but slightly too much unsurprisingly snaps the rear, given the 1000hp power plant. A spoiler would undoubtedly assist massively, but I want to try some suspension adjustments to see how far small traction improvements go. In it’s current state feathered throttle and several gears too high is necessary to keep it on track in the corners.

Someone mentioned the part availability is tied to the engine, and I believe that’s true (or rather I think power upgrades are tied to the engine, weight/stiffness upgrades are tied to the body/chassis). The only power upgrade I have available is the high RPM turbo (though interestingly the engine swap makes a racing exhaust standard), and I have weight stages 1-3 and chassis stiffening available. I don’t have the drift car so if someone else does it’s be interesting what weight options ot has by comparison.

Another funny tidbit, the turbo, which would increase HP by around 160, would only add 0.4 PP. Installing rear bumper B added ~2.5 PP. :lol: :lol: :lol:

View attachment 1161142

Obviously it doesn’t need any more power, but I will experiment with that eventually. For now I’m going to see how drivable I can make it bit by bit without just resorting to RS tires.

I think this swap is really only useful for a drift or drag build to the common user, and will pretty much mandate deeper tuning knowledge if you want to use it for anything else.

It will not handle at all, super nose heavy, ballast doesn't really help
The car teeters. Its because of the awfully narrow tires
And the brakes wont work because they're too dam small
Place brake bias towards rear
I did place 4th on LaSarth 30 min track, Still amazed at the 1 min pit times. The rain will get you

But it loves the Straights 300mph+ all day

I have the Nerd Candy Apple Red Car
 
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It will not handle at all, super nose heavy, ballast dose not really help
The car teeters. Its because of the awfully narrow tires
And the brakes wont work because they're too dam small
Place brake bias towards rear
I did place 4th on LaSarth 30 min track, Still amazed at the 1 min pit times. The rain will get you

But it loves the Straights 300mph+ all day

I have the Nerd Candy Apple Red Car
I’ve actually made it quite a bit more manageable on Sports Mediums already, but I’ve still got a ways to go so I’ll refrain from sharing my setup till I feel like I’m closer to maxing out my tuning ability.
 
I'm currently sitting on two Nismo engines that I got almost back to back from 4 star tickets.

Hopefully next update brings more cars eligible for that engine since neither the Lancia or the 180SX interests me. Or the GT-R Nismo, which would be pointless anyway.
 
Coyote-5.0L-Mustang - Ford Mustang Mach 1 '71 has anybody tried this tune ? Is it worth it?

13B-REW-RX-7 is there any other cars this works with ?
 
TLDR: Why try avoiding race tires on fully built street cars?
It's in what you said, kinda.

Slicks ("race tyres" in GT) are not street legal, so is it really a street car if it has slicks on it? IMO, no it's not.

They soften the blow of having bad throttle control, steering input etc. by having insane grip..

Go to a track day with "built" cars and supercars etc., and see how many people have slicks.

Probably none. At most, people will be using the equivalent to SM/SS tyres in GT (semi-slicks).

Slicks are more common on a drag strip, a TexasMexico highway at 3am, or a high-level racing league like Le Mans or F1.

Yes, it's a game, but some people like to try and keep it real, I guess.
 
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It's in what you said, kinda.

Slicks ("race tyres" in GT) are not street legal, so is it really a street car if it has slicks on it? IMO, no it's not.

They soften the blow of having bad throttle control, steering input etc. by having insane grip..

Go to a track day with "built" cars and supercars etc., and see how many people have slicks.

Probably none. At most, people will be using the equivalent to SM/SS tyres in GT (semi-slicks).

Slicks are more common on a drag strip, a Texas highway at 3am, or a high-level racing league like Le Mans or F1.

Yes, it's a game, but some people like to try and keep it real, I guess.
While I see what you're saying, I think you missed the mark on what I was saying. I've ben going to the track (New Jersey Motorsports Park) for years. Yes, most people are on something that gt7 would classify as a "sport" tire. The difference here is that NONE if those cars make 1000HP+, and weigh 1900 lbs. Pilot sport cup 2's and Toyo R888's are on most things in the 500+ hp range, and they're being pushed to the absolute limit of grip in some cases. So again, Why feel the need to limit the experience of having something rare and desirable in the case of your S14 with 1000+ HP by purposely making it useless all because you're under the impression no one would have slicks on the real life equivalent? Also, You're free to enjoy the game in anyway you see fit, I said multiple times in my post this isn't an attack but more of trying to understand why some people feel the need to self impose a limit on their game experience, especially one that wouldn't be a limit in reality, just for the sake of a "realistic" experience?

"They soften the blow of having bad throttle control, steering input etc. by having insane grip.." Highly disagree. What you stated is true of course about more grip, but bad control isn't immensely lessened by R tires. It just makes the person crash at higher speeds lol.
 
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Highly disagree. What you stated is true of course about more grip, but bad control isn't immensely lessened by R tires. It just makes the person crash at higher speeds lol.
It kind of is though. It makes you develop bad habits like @Streeto pointed out. While they eventually crash at higher speeds, it hinders their own driving skills, which makes them a danger to anyone on track.

I stopped going to "street" lobbies because everyone and their mom was using Racing Softs, and driving completely unrealistically.

The only other lobbies that are good are Toge lobbies but I don't want to be limited by a certain class of car or hp.

Ultimately I agree with both you and @Streeto points. On the one hand, using slicks isn't realistic, on the other hand, anything past Stage 2 or 3 weight reduction would not make it street legal.

Then again, IRL, youbuave Stage 3 and Stage 4 equivalents of weight reduction with full roll cages cruising around because their state has lax car regulations 🤷🏻‍♂️.

So it depends really, it's more of a subjective matter than anything. All I know is, fully realistic lobbies die out instantly. Inexperienced drivers that can't use anything other than race tires crash out, get full damage on their car and either rage quit or demand you change the settings (which we still can't do, so that argument is moot).
 
p78
I've just received my 3rd engine, the Ford engine.
Guess I'll better hold on to it till after the update seeing it only goes into the mach 1.
Put it in the Mach I and that opinion might quickly change. It's pretty wild to say the least.
 
I got both the 787b and turbo for the FD RX7, I assume you cant combine them
Nope. If it's an ultra-high turbo, that only applies to the stock RX-7 engine (the 13B) and not the R26B you can swap into it. So I'd recommend getting two RX-7s and using one part on each.
 
Nope. If it's an ultra-high turbo, that only applies to the stock RX-7 engine (the 13B) and not the R26B you can swap into it. So I'd recommend getting two RX-7s and using one part on each.
Thanks, what a shame would love a 1000pp RX7 that is utterly undrivable :P
 
p78
I've just received my 3rd engine, the Ford engine.
Guess I'll better hold on to it till after the update seeing it only goes into the mach 1.

There’s an old Ford roadster in the update, I’d wait and see if they make that one eligible for the Ford engine swap.
 
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