Gran Turismo 7 Physics

Do you want more detailed and realistic physics on the next GT


  • Total voters
    203
  • Poll closed .
Now I unocked the Nordschleife
In real life I have oversteering at 1 - 2 spots with the RX-8 and in GT7 I have oversteering at 42 spots with 1 spin and 1 snap oversteer with a crash. This is so funny. When you drive the car in real life oversteering is nearly impssoble over 60 km/h and in GT7 the speed doesn't matter. Oversteering is always possible. This would be extremely dangerous in Germany with the Autobahn exits. I cannot remember a recall action because of this dangerous behavior.
One thing about rx8, cause many here are complaing. That car, in real life, is really slow and has less than 180 real hp on serious dyno. On the game the car have 240 hp, as claim Mazda, so here there is a big difference of power between real life and game.

Snap oversteer exist in this game, and is too strong, but I would not bring the rx8 as example of how should behave in game .. Cause that car is broken in real life at first
 
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@RaceFace85

Well my Scirocco GTS kicked it's back at Wippermann/Eschbach after overtaking a CLA45 and I had a massive snap at Stefan Beloff S because a Peugeots 106 took the racing line after "grosser Sprunghügel" at like a 110km/h as I arrived with about 180 on the speedo. So tails coming out are pretty frequent IRL also.

I find that the GT7 Nordschleife is pretty much the real thing but there's also the fact that all RWD cars in game behave like drinving on damp Surfaces even with racing slicks in the dry.
 
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You’d need Geoff Capes to drive 10 laps round Daytona with torque at 8. And it’s my understanding that sensitivity needs to be lower for better feedback. Higher just compresses the dynamic range.
To those having issues with the oversteer is it the road cars or race cars? The race cars seem pretty good but they need to be finessed in a way that sport didn’t.
 
So... I've been doing some testing today on GR3 cars and using the C race layout as a benchmark.

Given the nature of this thread I'll say I'm a 47 year old kid and professionally worked in motorsports for 24 of those years. I have also lived on anything with a motor from dirt bikes to professional level drag race and road race cars.

Now in sim land because of my back issues I'm behind the curve a bit with experience. I'm quick not fast. Dipping my toes in GT before I go PC based. I'm usually .5 to 1 behind top split and I do ok for only racing a year.

Presently I'm using a DD1 ps4 base and V3 pedals.

Within this thread is alot a good real world info that applies to the new FFB and physics mixed with alot of opinion and lack of experience. No offense meant at all. What I'm saying is let's trouble shoot because I discovered something today.

Gt7 feels punctuated in feedback to the wheel to me from the start. On off as others suggest and we all agree it needs tweaks. If you're light on the throttle and try not to use 100 percent braking it helps but it still feels off. This led me to steering angle and what I felt when playing ACC for the first time then learning us Fanatec users have to adjust angle per vehicle.

I also did this in GT sport. Usually 560 to 530 for GR3 car dependent. After loading up various GR3 cars in GT7 in cockpit view and turning the wheel 180 degrees to see if matches my wheel I've found every car 10 to 20 degrees in game sharper than my wheel. 550 just about matches display against wheel and makes sense why pad players have less of an issue.

After some laps in numerous cars I can say the FFB opened up dramatically. I can feel the tire load up turning the wheel and overall it feels much, much more realistic. Less darty and the limit is much more manageable.

With that said it could be something hardware related so I would check your wheels. If you have the ability to adjust it, awesome if it's not a fanatec wheel. If you don't I'm sorry. You can cut the controller sensitivity down because it makes a difference and give up some hard credits for the angle kit in the meantime.

It would be cool if anyone else has the same issue to share what wheel they have.

Hope this helps.
Your experience seems to tally with mine regarding how the game is interpreting steering lock in-game vs the physical inputs from the wheel. I use a CSL Elite and the weirdest physics thing I'm experiencing in the game is how mid-engined cars, particularly racing cars like the 911 RSR and R8 Evo, will simply just lazily oversteer into a spin in low-speed corners like the tight hairpin at Deep Forest, Suzuka hairpin after the Degners, and the Bus Stop/La Source section at Spa. It can be mitigated by using a tiny bit of throttle, but this doesn't fix the problem and then also makes the time spent in the corner much longer as it then begins to induce understeer and pushes you away from the ideal corner exit line.

It feels to me that with my wheel settings set to 'automatic' for steering lock, the game seems to be choosing an internal steering lock that isn't being matched with a soft lock in the wheel itself, and thus it then becomes the case that your inputs become magnified and the game thinks you are cranking on steering lock in a slow corner with a rear-biased car, therefore effectively inducing the spin through what would be poor driving technique if you weren't doing it without intention to do so.

I'll try your suggestion of the 540ish range for these cars and see what my experience is 👍
 
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To those having issues with the oversteer is it the road cars or race cars? The race cars seem pretty good but they need to be finessed in a way that sport didn’t.
Whatever's happening seems to be polarizing the rear wheel drive cars the most but it feels like everything is being affected by it to some degree.

I've still got the gravity theory at the top of my list but I think there are other, unrelated to gravity issues muddying the big picture.
 
As much as I enjoy it up to the limit, not being able to really lean on a car and make me feel like a driving god is a bit of a shortcoming. I can lean on a car IRL, and not being able to do the same in a game that in some part is meant to be wish fulfilment is a bit mean spirited.
 
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Whatever's happening seems to be polarizing the rear wheel drive cars the most but it feels like everything is being affected by it to some degree.

I've still got the gravity theory at the top of my list but I think there are other, unrelated to gravity issues muddying the big picture.
I hated the road cars and I’ll never use them again. But I’m not sure if I just got used to the physics by the time I got to the race cars, but it did feel like blessed relief when I did.
 
After some more time playing I agree that RWD seems off, and probably agree with @kilesa4568 that there is something wrong that is affecting everything, it's just more pronounced in RWD road cars. For example; jumps on rally (or even on roads if you can get a little air) are very precarious.

I recently tried a few PC sims, and while it's impossible to compare exactly like for like, I do feel like in these other sims (iRacing, RaceRoom, AMS2) that oversteer and spin outs are predictable. In GT7 I feel like it's almost a lottery. Even a small bump on a slight turn in the road will throw the rear out of a highly tuned road car on racing slicks, and you have to be extremely careful with the throttle through every corner.

For the meantime, it's a lot less frustrating, and thus more enjoyable, to turn on TCS. It mitigates most of the issues.

BTW; any Sport lovers here who have a capable PC and don't mind the sub fees - iRacing is basically GT Sport mode on steroids - very good fun! Humble Bundle have a sim racing bundle atm which includes 3 months of iRacing and a whole bunch of other sims: https://www.humblebundle.com/games/ultimate-racing-sim-bundle
 
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Your experience seems to tally with mine regarding how the game is interpreting steering lock in-game vs the physical inputs from the wheel. I use a CSL Elite and the weirdest physics thing I'm experiencing in the game is how mid-engined cars, particularly racing cars like the 911 RSR and R8 Evo, will simply just lazily oversteer into a spin in low-speed corners like the tight hairpin at Deep Forest, Suzuka hairpin after the Degners, and the Bus Stop/La Source section at Spa. It can be mitigated by using a tiny bit of throttle, but this doesn't fix the problem and then also makes the time spent in the corner much longer as it then begins to induce understeer and pushes you away from the ideal corner exit line.

It feels to me that with my wheel settings set to 'automatic' for steering lock, the game seems to be choosing an internal steering lock that isn't being matched with a soft lock in the wheel itself, and thus it then becomes the case that your inputs become magnified and the game thinks you are cranking on steering lock in a slow corner with a rear-biased car, therefore effectively inducing the spin through what would be poor driving technique if you weren't doing it without intention to do so.

I'll try your suggestion of the 540ish range for these cars and see what my experience is 👍


It is quite evident with the RSR at the Suzuka hairpin even compared to ACC and forget about touching the inside curb even with light throttle.

All my testing shows 550 degrees so far. In GTS most were 560 granted you can run what's comfortable. Funny also considering the RSR is 800 in ACC. Not factoring in steering ratio of course.

On that thought if Fanatec stuff is 10 degrees off couple by what feels like a tighter steering ratio compared to GTS will amplify the issue even further.
 
I hated the road cars and I’ll never use them again. But I’m not sure if I just got used to the physics by the time I got to the race cars, but it did feel like blessed relief when I did.

With race cars you do corners when slipping slightly, when the wheel has just gone over the edge to smoothness. Exiting corners you start applying more and more throttle as the wheel goes back over the edge to the bumpy/lively/scratchy part.

In road cars, if you go onto the slipping/smooth part, over the edge, you're probably going into a spin. If not then, you are as soon as you look at the brake/throttle. So with road cars, simply turn the wheel less and avoid the slipping/smooth edge, and if you pass it, be careful.

That's my experience. I'm fine with all cars.
 
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I think I've about had it with this game for the time being. I don't know what the 🤬 it wants from me, I really don't.

- I short shift, lowering the torque curve and giving the car a bit more grip while corning, or at least that's how it's supposed to work. Nope. Snap oversteer.

- I go into a corner carefully and for some reason....snap oversteer.

- I don't know how brakes work in this game. And by "work", I mean they 🤬 don't. Is there like some jank brake fade or something? What is this?

I'm done. I'll be back after a patch or something.
I've had every single one of these issues as well. Lately I've finally gotten around to the 4WD cars which has eased many of the issues with snap oversteer as you'd expect, driving a heavily modified 600PP GTO. Now the thing has such unusual braking that I really can't grasp. I know that Sport Hard tyres won't give you an amazing braking distance but there's this weird, unsalvageable understeer that comes with heavy braking that feels overly punishing. I've gone deep front first into the walls at Tokyo Expressway so many times.

I know that the braking is linear this year, and I've been able to adjust more easily than some given I always braked slightly less than fully, even with ABS on, which is a habit I probably picked up from rfactor when I first got a G25 as a kid. It's a bit much right now, kind of counteracting how much more responsive the car is otherwise to trail braking and bias adjustments, another big plus to this year's physics.

I don't think I will go as far as to stop playing entirely, but I am concerned about the meta of the game going forward, not just competitively but even for completing the campaign. If AWD and FF cars are the only things stable enough to drive in anger without being murdered, where will we go from here? Likely, not very far.
 
Was driving several American muscle cars and was oversteering all over the place with SH and SM tires. Once I put on SS or RH, things improved dramatically. I feel like anything SM and below are overly slippery.
yeah the racing tires let you do a lot with the cars, I feel like tuning is a factor in all of this with how the cars handle, esp tires.
 
Was driving several American muscle cars and was oversteering all over the place with SH and SM tires. Once I put on SS or RH, things improved dramatically. I feel like anything SM and below are overly slippery.
Yeah, it's better. The problem is it's still there and do "strange" stuff when it should not. It's like horror game, you never know will scare you next. :D Like slow corners almost without any throttle are 50:50. Faster ones are different, but the same.
 
This is a very interesting topic for me because I've never been to a driving school/lecture before, I'm learning so much from you.

I've got a question on the point of steering load increase as lateral load increase, does that apply to all kind of steering rack? be it assisted by hydraulic or EPS or even unassisted? because when car journalist review cars they always says car with hydraulic/unassisted steering has a better steering information than that of EPS. they always point out car with EPS usually felt numb and doesn't give feedback to the driver.
Yep, steering load will always increase, regardless of assistance or lack of it.

What unassisted steering will give you (potentially) is direct communication from the tyres, which is always going to be diluted with assisted steering to a degree. Now in terms of which is better in terms of retaining steering feel, that's an easy answer, as it's hydraulic PAS. which is not to say that you can't get good electric-assisted PAS, Porsche EPAS has a solid reputation and my own I30n is pretty good as well. And all of them are going to let you feel the build-up and loss of steering force. Interestingly with EPAS, you could in theory, reduce the steering weight to zero, but no one would want to drive your car, as it would feel utterly alien, as anyone who ever had FFB drop-out in a title will attest to.

The issue with EPAS systems is often additional weight is added in, as many people think it's more 'sporty' but it can often then mute the road feel you ideally want as well. However, that's not the only thing in the steering and suspension make-up that can mask that granular feel keen drivers desire, as your steering and suspension set-up is full of rubber/poly bushes, all of which are present to reduce 'Noise, Vibration, and Harshness'. NVH as it's abbreviated in the industry is something that great lengths are gone to (as in millions of $), to reduce to an absolute minimum, to make road cars as comfortable as possible, drive a purpose build race-car and you will soon find out why, they are noisy (and not just from un-soundproofed engine noise), and the rose-jointed suspension and steering, which removes all bushes combined with race stiff springs and dampers are harsh to a degree that shock people for the first time.

In terms of steering rack systems, basically, everything on the road these days is rack and pinion, with good reason. I semi-regularly drive a number of old Series Land Rovers, which all have either 'worm and nut' or 'circulating ball' systems, which offer almost zero feel of any form whatsoever, and are unassisted and are better than a work out at the gym when it comes to low-speed steering.

Yeah, I don’t think torque should be set too low. The game doesn’t translate bumps well with a low setting. I think the sensitivity needs to be turned up also for more pronunciation of road surface. If torque is 10 and sensitivity is 1, the wheel would just feel dead heavy and won’t react to surface bumps. With a low torque and high sensitivity, steering is light but the torque transmission isn’t enough to dictate steering movement. I set torque and sensitivity at both 8 and can’t really differentiate my actual car steering weight for the game in all driving conditions.
Oh, I 100% agree, as a mainly PC sim racer FFB setting is a little bit of an obsession.

With my T300 in GT7 I run 4/2, any more torque than that and the steering weight is unrealistically heavy and starts to clip (which you 100% want to avoid), however PD, even for a console title, fall well short of enough options to get a wheel dialed in fully.
 
I hated the road cars and I’ll never use them again. But I’m not sure if I just got used to the physics by the time I got to the race cars, but it did feel like blessed relief when I did.
I've only driven the Pug Gr4 in one of the menu books and was surprised at the amount of grip and rotation it had but I was only in it for 5 minutes.

I've got a couple of Gr3's so I'll give them a run next time I'm on.
 
Besides the accuracy of the physics I don't know how some people say they're not having fun
Because if physics accuracy is the main draw for you in a racing sim, then areas that are very inaccurate are going to reduce the fun for you.

If a title is 100% pure arcade then I can have plenty of fun even with inaccurate physics.

It's also bloody frustrating when a title, GT7 in this case, improves in one area (below the limit physics accuracy) and then screws up massively in another (over the limit physics accuracy).
 
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Getting very frustrated with the game as well, because it doesn't match what I've experienced in real life. The way I can describe it is two things: RWD cars feel like they are running very crappy tires and they're hard all the time - too much snap oversteer, random oversteer during sweeping turns - and when they do spin out, the way they behave makes no sense and even the FFB feel makes me believe there's some weird automated/scripted behavior that you can't control (if you pay attention to the FFB during a spinout it really doesn't match what's going on with the car so it tricks you into wrong inputs...if that makes any sense).

Not meant to brag in any way but I've driven - 997tt, CTS-V (553hp version), 996tt, Rx7, s2000, 997 c2s (rwd), some rwd maseratis with the 400hp motor) and an f355 IRL. None of those cars have anywhere near the traction issues represented in this game, and I drove them all on sports tires in cold VA winters in 30 degreef weather and always disabled any TC in them. Even if they did start to get tail happy, it was easy to correct, unlike this game where sometimes it just doesnt make any sense why you couldn't recover the car).
 
Getting very frustrated with the game as well, because it doesn't match what I've experienced in real life. The way I can describe it is two things: RWD cars feel like they are running very crappy tires and they're hard all the time - too much snap oversteer, random oversteer during sweeping turns - and when they do spin out, the way they behave makes no sense and even the FFB feel makes me believe there's some weird automated/scripted behavior that you can't control (if you pay attention to the FFB during a spinout it really doesn't match what's going on with the car so it tricks you into wrong inputs...if that makes any sense).

Not meant to brag in any way but I've driven - 997tt, CTS-V (553hp version), 996tt, Rx7, s2000, 997 c2s (rwd), some rwd maseratis with the 400hp motor) and an f355 IRL. None of those cars have anywhere near the traction issues represented in this game, and I drove them all on sports tires in cold VA winters in 30 degreef weather and always disabled any TC in them. Even if they did start to get tail happy, it was easy to correct, unlike this game where sometimes it just doesnt make any sense why you couldn't recover the car).

You have to tell us your wheel and settings. Different wheels and settings have wildly different FFB.
 
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You have to tell us your wheel and settings. Different wheels and settings have wildly different FFB.
I don’t know man, some people just might not be catching on to the physics… on my road cars I have been driving them pretty much stock besides tire upgrades to compete in the events… The 996 everyone says is terrible to drive in my respectful opinion just don’t know how to drive the car… again not as sharp as the 997 but compared to other early 2000 cars this thing is a monster and absolutely destroys turns… I have it on SS tires competing in this European championship, in stock form and it’s a monster… doesn’t have the power to compete against the M4 and the AMG 63s on the straights but makes it up in the turns.
 
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I adore the Civic Type R. I haven't driven too many AWD cars as of yet. The problem isn't even every rear-wheel driven car. The E92 M3? Amazing. AMG GT Black? Respectably murderous. F40? Squirrely under braking but is otherwise another amazing car. And that's three examples off the top of my head.
Yep, I tried the E46 M3, 370Z, GR86 all of them is snappy oversteery car, yet the high HP camaro ZL1 LE is not that snappy/oversteery. I just finished WTAC 700 using the Supra Gr.4 on Racing Hard tyre last night and it drives like it's on rail and the oversteer is so progressive that I think PD is trolling us.
Yep, steering load will always increase, regardless of assistance or lack of it.

What unassisted steering will give you (potentially) is direct communication from the tyres, which is always going to be diluted with assisted steering to a degree. Now in terms of which is better in terms of retaining steering feel, that's an easy answer, as it's hydraulic PAS. which is not to say that you can't get good electric-assisted PAS, Porsche EPAS has a solid reputation and my own I30n is pretty good as well.
Wow, whenever you gave me a new info Assetto Corsa always pop up in my head. the porsche 911R always gave me so much more road information on my steering wheel (GT7 doesn't give me this with the 997 GT3) and gave me way more confidence on the corner than a 458 italia and MP4-12C.
The issue with EPAS systems is often additional weight is added in, as many people think it's more 'sporty' but it can often then mute the road feel you ideally want as well. However, that's not the only thing in the steering and suspension make-up that can mask that granular feel keen drivers desire, as your steering and suspension set-up is full of rubber/poly bushes, all of which are present to reduce 'Noise, Vibration, and Harshness'. NVH as it's abbreviated in the industry is something that great lengths are gone to (as in millions of $), to reduce to an absolute minimum, to make road cars as comfortable as possible, drive a purpose build race-car and you will soon find out why, they are noisy (and not just from un-soundproofed engine noise), and the rose-jointed suspension and steering, which removes all bushes combined with race stiff springs and dampers are harsh to a degree that shock people for the first time.
Yep, driven a Lexus CT200H F sport with a "sport mode" and felt the steering wheel is artificially heavier while not giving that much road information in real life. also driven a mitsubishi van with worn out bushes, ball joint and engine mounting and I wish someone shot me in the head, the noise and vibration is quite sickening worst 15 minute experience off my life.
In terms of steering rack systems, basically, everything on the road these days is rack and pinion, with good reason. I semi-regularly drive a number of old Series Land Rovers, which all have either 'worm and nut' or 'circulating ball' systems, which offer almost zero feel of any form whatsoever, and are unassisted and are better than a work out at the gym when it comes to low-speed steering.
Yep that Mitsubishi van that came with an old steering system that has a lot of play on the steering and move about when there is uneven road, don't even dare to find out the limit of those car lol. thanks for all of this info it's been an informative journey for me.

EDIT: nevermind the mitsubishi van steering system is rack and pinion, must be worn tie rods then.
 
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You have to tell us your wheel and settings. Different wheels and settings have wildly different FFB.
csw 2.5, tried fanatec's recommend settings, will try changing wheel rotation from auto to 550 else as mentioned above, going to try that today but not holding my breath. tried lowering/raising both ffb settings in game, tried low ffb on wheel but high in game and vice versa, all feels the same.

Basically I'd like to get to a point where I can drift or slide through a turn in a rwd car to alleviate the boring grind of these annoying catchup races against the AI.
 
I don’t know man, some people just might not be catching on to the physics… on my road cars I have been driving them pretty much stock besides tire upgrades to compete in the events… The 996 everyone says is terrible to drive in my respectful opinion just don’t know how to drive the car… again not as sharp as the 997 but compared to other early 2000 cars this thing is a monster and absolutely destroys turns… I have it on SS tires competing in this European championship, in stock form and it’s a monster… doesn’t have the power to compete against the M4 and the AMG 63s on the straights but makes it up in the turns.
As I mentioned I think most find the grip unacceptable at SM or worse tires, as most stock cars default to SH or CS.

Having SS dramatically improves the issue.
 
As I mentioned I think most find the grip unacceptable at SM or worse tires, as most stock cars default to SH or CS.

Having SS dramatically improves the issue.
I do use TC with high powered cars with the stock tires, but the 966 even on the SH I’m good on… if people are having a problem with the car I believe it might have to do with chassis balance and steering angle.. it is very easy to put to much steering input when driving the car, because it doesn’t need that much steering compared to a FR. That was giving me more trouble than the stock SH tires.
 
csw 2.5, tried fanatec's recommend settings, will try changing wheel rotation from auto to 550 else as mentioned above, going to try that today but not holding my breath. tried lowering/raising both ffb settings in game, tried low ffb on wheel but high in game and vice versa, all feels the same.

Basically I'd like to get to a point where I can drift or slide through a turn in a rwd car to alleviate the boring grind of these annoying catchup races against the AI.

550 on most GR3 but I would check every car.

Also. Outside of drift events sliding the car doesn't seem to be part of the new engine. It's much more about precise inputs from my testing so far. I could slide much easier in GTS.
 
You have to tell us your wheel and settings. Different wheels and settings have wildly different FFB.
I can feel everything up to the limit on a belt drive but once the car let's go, it can't keep up with the pace of the snap.

The only good thing going for the snap oversteer is i know it's there and ready for it but I've got trust issues knowing it's there. It's hard to enjoy your driving when you don't trust the machinery. Or in this case, physics.
 
Had some good fun in a tuned suzuki swift today. The new physics really do shine in a way gt sport never did for FF cars.

Tuning it to 450pp and running CS tyres and abs off was a joy. Especially cool when you can tune the suspension so you really get the rear rotated into turns, awesome! Fun to see the tire monitor glowing red on only three tires when you throw it in a corner, inner wheel lift!!? Yeasssssss.

But, story remains the same with FR cars, they still make no sense at all in the 400-600pp bracket on CS-SS tyres. Well they do until you get random unsaveable oversteer... Total rubbish. As many have stated Gr cars on RH are easier to slide, lolololol, so unreal, so broken.

I see some comments about ffb settings, there are two in the game. Anybody should be able to conclude a myriad of combinations here wont affect anything much, compared to many other games that actually have settings that really impact in a much more profound way. My experience is that nothing in those settings change the physics of the game, id say its a fact that FFB is a product of physics in a way. In GT you can only set the amplitude and compression of the waveform, really really basic.

Sure i can turn it to 10/1 and feel even more when the snap comes, its not about that, its how unreal it is to control the slide. The feeling is like balancing a sphere on another.

Im betting 99% of the player base doesnt use a dd wheel. And even thos who do have issues. Im baffled by those here who defend this behaviour of FR cars, its just not there in any other sim and numerous people have come forth with real life experience proving its just plain wrong the way it is now, specifically for FR road cars, probably the most favourite drivetrain for many.

Patch coming in a couple of hours, lets see what they can fix/break this time for the fabulous beta that is GT7.
 
I seriously think everyone getting caught with oversteer are not realizing their throttle application. Throttle travel and spring return force vary from car to car irl. Like for my car irl, the throttle is very heavy and travels a good distance. With the G27, the foot pedal spring is very light and the travel is very short, so many times I think I’m giving light throttle, I’m actually traveling well past 50% almost to 70%. That’s enough to upset any car irl. What I found is I have to pay attention to my application and where I’m positioning the throttle and get used to my setup from there. I’m not really having that much trouble with rwd cars in the game once I realize this.
 
I seriously think everyone getting caught with oversteer are not realizing their throttle application. Throttle travel and spring return force vary from car to car irl. Like for my car irl, the throttle is very heavy and travels a good distance. With the G27, the foot pedal spring is very light and the travel is very short, so many times I think I’m giving light throttle, I’m actually traveling well past 50% almost to 70%. That’s enough to upset any car irl. What I found is I have to pay attention to my application and where I’m positioning the throttle and get used to my setup from there. I’m not really having that much trouble with rwd cars in the game once I realize this.
That’s the first thing I said was I need new pedals the linear throttle takes time getting use to especially with my light pedal. I have adjusted and love the linear throttle. It makes actually putting you footdown all the way on the throttle that much more pleasurable. I just took a stock GT40 around trial mountain and it was so much fun! No tcs just abs and the way you have to be careful on the throttle, but the pleasure you get coming out of a turn is rewarding!
 
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That’s the first thing I said was I need new pedals the linear throttle takes time getting use to especially with my light pedal. I have adjusted and love the linear throttle. It makes actually putting you footdown all the way on the throttle that much more pleasurable. I just took a stock GT40 around trial mountain and it was so much fun! No tcs just abs and the way you have to be careful on the throttle, but the pleasure you get coming out of a turn is rewarding!

Literally every other sim has a linear throttle. Never had problems with those.
 
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