GT7 Daily Race Discussion

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I still have no idea what Sensitivity does. I've played around with it loads on my wheel and I've never felt a difference. The tool tip is written like a Harry Potter spell too, it's madness.
@TheNormsk @TechnoIsLove

I did a deep dive on settings on the Fanatec forums. Here are a few items that may help you on your wheel settings.

Controller sensitivity has no affect in the wheel, no matter how many people insist on it. It’s for your ps4/5 wireless controller. Take that for whatever it’s worth.

The Force setting is the strength of signal sent by the game and interpreted by your wheel. On my DD Pro, for example, anything over 5 results in clipping. Nobody sets anything stronger than that because it just makes everything a mess. There may be a similar threshold on your wheel, above which point you get a strong but clipped signal.

Sensitivity: this is crazy in that PD just doesn’t describe it right: it is a setting of the dynamic range of the signal. Sensitivity of 1 has a very high range between low and high (a bump in pavement vs a sausage curb), while Sensitivity of 10 makes it all feel stronger but it’ll all feel about the same. At 10 you’ll feel everything, for sure, but there’s very little variation between the smallest bump and smashing into a wall. It’s counterintuitive, but at least for the Fanatec wheel it really worked.

Just to give a concrete example: I reset my wheel last weekend. I like a strong signal but I found myself strong-arming the wheel too much. After my dive down the Fanatec rabbit hole I changed my settings to Force 5 and Sensitivity 1. Now I can feel every little nuance of the road, albeit softer and more subtle. Fanatec has lots of other settings, but they are all filters on the raw signal that the game sends with those two settings. My time has gone up dramatically, by the way, now that I can feel a difference between a skid and a curb.

I can give a link to the conversation if it’s useful, but I’m sure you all have done your own research for your own wheels. Good luck.
 
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@TheNormsk @TechnoIsLove
Controller sensitivity has no affect in the wheel, no matter how many people insist on it. It’s for your ps4/5 wireless controller. Take that for whatever it’s worth.
So many conflicting arguments on that. Whatever the reality is that I drive better with at 5.

As to the other settings, my 2/2 is not far off what your Fanatec comments are. I might experiment with 3/1 but I'm not really liking it stronger than that as the dead spot on my G29 sucks. Wish I had a DD wheel but I'm not good enough to justify the $$.
Good question, cant really describe it.
Turn brain off and slap the **** out of the car, trust the downforce.
I obviously need to slap the German way! :D
 
D
For those of you who, like me, aren't a SpaMaster™️, here's a little encouragement. I'm not bragging about this time, because it's honestly nothing to brag about. But I wanted to show you that you can be struggling to even match your meager best time, when all of a sudden something clicks:

View attachment 1241343

Improving by well over a second, after not being able to come close to my best time during hours and hours of attempts, is an awesome feeling. You can do it to!!!

And for the record, no, I haven't tried another lap yet. I posted this right away. Time will tell if I can replicate it or do better.

("Time will tell" is one of my favorite jokes when talking about qualifying. It's just so... perfect.)

And then there's this guy^^^. I mean, what the actual <word I can't say here>? Someone beam this guy up!.

Just kidding, @RacinLei. That's an amazing time. :bowdown:

Thanks!
Dagnabbit Grumpy! Now I gotta go faster... Ok challenge accepted
 
@TheNormsk

You can try also first the Lexus, good for a mid 2:03. It hase slightly more grip to built youre trust and then switch to the gt500 ’16. Or maybe watch a replay from the leaderboard, helps a lot to know how far you can go.
 
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Always confused me when people speak about the controller sensitiviy setting impacting the wheel. It essentially impacts how fast the ingame car reacts through the joystick, no?

It's completely irrelevant to an actual wheel because an actual wheel is mapped 1:1 to the ingame wheel. You can't have a 1:1 mapping change how much it turns because then it's not 1:1 anymore. And you can see with your eyes that it is.
 
Just completed my first Daily C in ages and good race.
Race was very clean, had one or two punts but good all in all. Got a P2 but should have been P1. I was 4 seconds in the lead pitted for mediums lap 6. On the outlap I caught a back marker who decided to brake check me and I get a 3 seconds pen. That cost me the lead and I just couldn’t get close to make a move stick.


I see we now have a new Gr4 problem! Went to check out Daily A and it’s just Audi TT for pages! At least with the 4wd cars you have 3/4 options,
Daily C bop looked pretty good in my race. AMGs, Porsche, Suzuki, Ford, Mazda and a few others.
 
This is interesting! Which layout does GT7 use? 2007-21 or 2022-current? The '78 and prior track looks awesome for touring!
I'm positive it's using the 07-21 layout.
Agreed on how awesome the older layouts are. That's one thing I think GT could really really use: historic layouts of modern circuits.
 
in case anyone needs it as a ghost; I saved my fastest lap, you can find it using searching terms 'gtp', 'mcl', '123' or in my gallery:

laptime is 1.14.525 with the Audi TT:

1679421925466.png


and for those here not doing race A yet, this is a really awesome track and driving the gr. 4's here is a lot of fun!!
 
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@TheNormsk

You can try also first the Lexus, good for a mid 2:03. It hase slightly more grip to built youre trust and then switch to the gt500 ’16. Or maybe watch a replay from the leaderboard, helps a lot to know how far you can go.
I just spent lunch watching some replays from someone in the 2:02s... Then I put some laps in and got a new QT over a second faster before: now a 2:05.826. 👍

Turns out that I do actually brake into T9 and T10. I think I made up a lot of time on exit speed out of T1 that carried me up the hill and incrementally added up through the next corners. Then T10; not sure what I did there but I rocketed out of that turn which carried all the way through to the end...
I'm positive it's using the 07-21 layout.
Agreed on how awesome the older layouts are. That's one thing I think GT could really really use: historic layouts of modern circuits.
When I looked at the history, it thought it would be really cool to have the historic layout before Eau Rouge and with the road circuit to push it to over 14km. These days, being virtual, you would not have to worry about safety which is why the old circuit got closed.
 
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Just completed my first Daily C in ages and good race.
Race was very clean, had one or two punts but good all in all. Got a P2 but should have been P1. I was 4 seconds in the lead pitted for mediums lap 6. On the outlap I caught a back marker who decided to brake check me and I get a 3 seconds pen. That cost me the lead and I just couldn’t get close to make a move stick.


I see we now have a new Gr4 problem! Went to check out Daily A and it’s just Audi TT for pages! At least with the 4wd cars you have 3/4 options,
Daily C bop looked pretty good in my race. AMGs, Porsche, Suzuki, Ford, Mazda and a few others.
Nice I'm using the Audi R8 LMS evo '19

The fact i see hardly anybody else using it makes me wonder....but I find it an amazing car to use for this Daily race.
 
I obviously need to slap the German way! :D

Just for the record: That's not German. That's Bavarian. :D


in case anyone needs it as a ghost; I saved my fastest lap, you can find it using searching terms 'gtp', 'mcl', '123' or in my gallery:

laptime is 1.14.525 with the Audi TT:

View attachment 1241374

and for those here not doing race A yet, this is a really awesome track and driving the gr. 4's here is a lot of fun!!
"Dageliijkse race kwalificatietijd"

I've heard rumours that the inventor of the password generator was a dutchman. :D
 
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@TheNormsk @TechnoIsLove

I did a deep dive on settings on the Fanatec forums. Here are a few items that may help you on your wheel settings.

Controller sensitivity has no affect in the wheel, no matter how many people insist on it. It’s for your ps4/5 wireless controller. Take that for whatever it’s worth.

The Force setting is the strength of signal sent by the game and interpreted by your wheel. On my DD Pro, for example, anything over 5 results in clipping. Nobody sets anything stronger than that because it just makes everything a mess. There may be a similar threshold on your wheel, above which point you get a strong but clipped signal.

Sensitivity: this is crazy in that PD just doesn’t describe it right: it is a setting of the dynamic range of the signal. Sensitivity of 1 has a very high range between low and high (a bump in pavement vs a sausage curb), while Sensitivity of 10 makes it all feel stronger but it’ll all feel about the same. At 10 you’ll feel everything, for sure, but there’s very little variation between the smallest bump and smashing into a wall. It’s counterintuitive, but at least for the Fanatec wheel it really worked.

Just to give a concrete example: I reset my wheel last weekend. I like a strong signal but I found myself strong-arming the wheel too much. After my dive down the Fanatec rabbit hole I changed my settings to Force 5 and Sensitivity 1. Now I can feel every little nuance of the road, albeit softer and more subtle. Fanatec has lots of other settings, but they are all filters on the raw signal that the game sends with those two settings. My time has gone up dramatically, by the way, now that I can feel a difference between a skid and a curb.

I can give a link to the conversation if it’s useful, but I’m sure you all have done your own research for your own wheels. Good luck.
Thanks for the info, will study some more tomorrow.

Thing is, for me and my driving style, I usually rely a lot on my control of both accelerator and brake pedals, even in real driving.

The Ġ29 pedals aren't great so wheel input becomes even more important to me. Lowering sensitivity or torque reduces my ability to feel the grip and to also control a slide.

I've improved the most since moving up to 10/10 or 9/9 when before I was in the 5's and 6's in settings.

Increased to 10/10 tonight and found 2 tenths and even more but screwed up a few corners 🤣

2:04:2 only has me starting P10 but at least had a good first race 🙂

Also had 2 great, clean races with 2nd account starting P4 both times. Last race I was gaining on leader to the point that was on his tail lap 3 on the fast double left middle of sector 2 but...

Dirty air is real! Almost lost it mid corner with sudden understeer but managed to hold it. Finished lap 3 over 2.5 sec behind but closed gap by the finish 🙂 got fastest lap in that one.
 

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Hi there,

Glad to join this friendly family of Gran Turismo fans.
My first daily race is Le Mans with my GT-R Nismo Gr3 '18.
Settings:
  • intermediate tires
  • power reduced for 699PP
The first 3 laps with energy 1 and I switch to eco mode (6) after boxing to avoid a second pit-stop.
I love Le Mans because after Mulsanne, all the AI cars are far behind mine, because the track is wide enough to overtake easily and this mythic track is "all mine" for more than 25 mins evey day 🥰 (and of course, the cash is also a good daily motivation).

I've used to drive the first race in hard mode (to maximise the the lottery gain) but I'm really not sure it's useful. I guess it's more like a confirmation bias :D
 
Have you tried the gt500 ‘16 with small wing? For me, it feels a bit more balanced and the rear end follows better wile turning. And a bit faster on straights.
I think you're talking about the gt500 '08, and no, I haven't tried it yet. But I will - thanks!
 


Struggling to get anywhere on Race B this week, got that good quali time, get put in the upper part of the grid most times but I can't convert because I either stuff up with mistakes or just genuinely being too slow, or other drivers.

That being said I did have the gem of a race above which might be one of my best. Think I'll try Race A for the rest of the week since its getting good reviews.
 
I think you're talking about the gt500 '08, and no, I haven't tried it yet. But I will - thanks!
What car are you currently running in B? I own both the Nissans but have only used the '16. I find myself faster with that one over the '08. I haven't tried any of the other GR.2 options.
 
I tried that with my wife numerous times. The fancy word is "shutup". Doesn't work.😆
They do say bravery is next to stupidity. Good luck my friend.
Honestly PD did it to themselves - it's completely unclear what each setting does through the tooltip and then there's no actual way to gauge force feedback output either. I don't know what they were thinking.

The way I see it is that Torque alone at 9 is going to give you so much resistance that in a G29 there is going to be no room for there to be road details delivered on top of the torque feedback.

I still have no idea what Sensitivity does. I've played around with it loads on my wheel and I've never felt a difference. The tool tip is written like a Harry Potter spell too, it's madness.
I think mine is pretty much at stock settings. Maybe fiddling with the settings is my missing piece?
I see we now have a new Gr4 problem! Went to check out Daily A and it’s just Audi TT for pages! At least with the 4wd cars you have 3/4 options,
Daily C bop looked pretty good in my race. AMGs, Porsche, Suzuki, Ford, Mazda and a few others.
Just like GTS. FF's to the fore with either the TT or RCZ being strong.

Got a 2:06.8 within 2 laps of TT at Spa. But I could not get much more headway after that. Mainly due to consistency. I joined a couple of races.
Race 1:
P12 start. Pretty uneventful. Made a few positions but then a mistake set me back. Managed to get a P11 to at least claim some progress from the start.

Race 2: P12 again for the grid but at least I was more prepared for the chicane start. Lap one I overlapped another car in the run up the back. I was on the outside. I knew the downforce would allow me to go side by side through Blanchimont but I would have to rely on the other Brit. I went for it and whilst there was a little bit of rubbing it was fine and the position was mine into the chicane.
c376c012244d6b460dce03e41bb30201_photo.webp

Due to incidents ahead I was running P6 after a couple of laps but the car behind was gaining slowly. However it unravelled on the last lap. My old friend understeer raised it's head and I went wide through La Source. I decided to not touch the astro and make a controlled entry back onto the track. Nope the car still decided to spin. I caught it but then she went again causing me to face the pit exit. A quick blast got me facing the right way again and away I went. A few other struggled and fought especially into the chicane allowing me to pass them and claim P8 right at the end.

A quick break into a few single player races reset me as I improved my time to a 2:06.4
Race 3: This new time put me P7 on the grid but someone's internet decided not to let them race so I started P6. Finally starting on the straight I was right into the action. A 08 NSX dived into La Source and caused a bit of chaos. I grabbed a couple of spots and was behind the NSX along the Kemmel. I went into Les Combes fine but everyone ahead just stopped accelerating at the first apex and I hit the back of the NSX which then hit another GTR causing them both to spin. Argh!!! I was now into P4 but had a 5 second penalty. Frustrating but if this means penalties are back then I am all for it. Of course I loose bucketfulls of positions after that penalty. I crawl back up to P8 for the end but I would have been fighting for the podium without that lap 1 incident.

Loving this combo. Some good close racing to be had here.
 
Always confused me when people speak about the controller sensitiviy setting impacting the wheel. It essentially impacts how fast the ingame car reacts through the joystick, no?

It's completely irrelevant to an actual wheel because an actual wheel is mapped 1:1 to the ingame wheel. You can't have a 1:1 mapping change how much it turns because then it's not 1:1 anymore. And you can see with your eyes that it is.
The DD Pro doesn’t have to map 1:1. It can vary from 90* to 540* for lock-to-lock in game. There’s lots of variations available, but “auto” pretty much assures it’s the right ratio for each car. But that’s for my hub in particular so not the point of this conversation.
Lowering sensitivity or torque reduces my ability to feel the grip and to also control a slide.
To be clear (my wall of text may have been tldr) lowering sensitivity doesn’t reduce the ability to feel FFB. It has the opposite effect: you can feel more variation of the types of FFB being sent to the wheel. Higher sensitivity means it will all feel about the same because the softer “touch” is amped up to match the harder “punch.” But on your wheel the softer tones may be undetectable, so my points above may be irrelevant.
 
9BB5C478-F75F-4A24-9D4D-5AA1AF6ECFCA.jpeg


I’m loving race B! I’m not overly familiar with Group 2 and being new to a wheel/DD/load cell it’s an experience! But I feel like you can be properly fast in these cars with a smooth driving style. Got a nice podium in my second race and feels easy to get a clean race bonus in this one… does anyone think that race time is quick for B rated lobby (im a mid B) - 8:18.082!??

Still feels good after some real bad luck in the carnage of last weeks race C!
 
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