The way you describe it would sound to an outsider like the difference between 0.0 and 0.6 camber is night and day on the track, almost like driving two different cars. I don't get how that can be true, and all the different inputs you say you need with each variation, and yet you arrive at the finish line at virtually the same time both ways as does
@Sutuki. IMO you are using different words but saying the same thing as
@Motor City Hami was saying, that camber gives a slightly better feel entering the corner and zero camber improves corner exit, but both end up at the same spot at the end of the lap within a tenth or two.
But in real life which the game is supposed to simulate, the addition of camber on a track like Motegi should result in massive, obvious and impossible to miss gains in cornering speed and with braking being far less of a concern than on a road course, the lap time gains should be obvious, clear and without dispute.
Whole thread is about is camber working/fixed, I see it working, and wheel users can measure it from their wheel turn radius.
That tune and motegi you cannot drive without noticing angle of your steering wheel, ~40 degree with camber and ~55 degree without.
In my opinion this clearly shows camber working, does driver have skills to get advantage of it is different.
I tune my cars so forgivable at I can drive over curbs without worrying disaster, although most "alien"-tunes are so fragile at even small touch on curb kicks you in trouble.
Biggest difference between my tune and alien tune is camber and suspension stiffness along with toe, I'm trying to keep suspension alive more to softer side than alien way hard, same as I'm running small toe vales and often alien tunes rely on toe glueing to road.
Also my differential locks are made to support suspension setup, getting that "missing" toe glue from there.
That skyline tune is easy to use on demonstrative manner, go and change some value alone there and you see how whole setup breaks up, all settings are relying to other part or parts.
0-camber and cambered setups are totally different.
I can setup car using 0-camber and made quick, but out will always be fragile on surface changes ie.curbs/grass/etc. Suspension had to be really stiff to raise slip point on cornering, and after slip it behaves like piece of soap until it
snaps traction again.
Camber tuned car behaves more predictable, slipping is softer and gaining traction comes also softer. Tuning starts a bit different way than 0-model.
And as that difference on 0.6 and 0.0 there is no stone graved answer, on this tune what is made for camber there is huge difference on handling, some cases there is more and some other less. Everything is related how tune is made and how capable driver is.
Lets forget these numerical comparisons of camber in real life and GT6, just assume those being some numerical values.
Limit where camber benefits are lost aren't static, those rely on setup, after some point your tire is just too tilted and there isn't enough contact to ground and you lose grip easier, on real life you can put different compound and softer pressure, on game you have moderate (closer badly) tire compound which has too small limit on flexibility, car weight point is counted probably way too high from ground, as seen on roll-overs, then we have to use tuning tools in these limits.
When you figure optimal camber on your current car& setup you see how one tenth more camber makes it slide and one tenth less makes it too grippy. And yes grippy, not on good way but grippy, like bad tailsnap. And if one tenth is not making such difference then your springs and absorbers are not on perfect tune.
Ps. sorry for long post, pointless and wandering post, too tired to get proper output on 5" phone screen..something forgotten something too much..jadajada..
Edit: biggest benefits of proper camber tune is ability to use all tyre compounds without re-tuning car. No worries on comfort tyres nor racing softs, good balance and car can be used as drifting car also.
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