Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

Which way are you supposed to put the elastomers, or does it matter? In YouTube reviews they put stiffer in first then softer. In default it goes: softer - stiffer. That's also how I would do it if I had nothing to go by. However the yellow elastomer seems to be too thin to be at the bottom.

@LOGI_Rich
 
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Which way are you supposed to put the elastomers
The softer white foams should always be at the bottom (in first). I tend to then to put the softer followed by the stiffer elastomers - although I don't think it matters too much. However as you point out the yellow one is thinner (presumably to allow it to expand), so if using that I put it at the top so that a thicker one presses more evenly on the foam below.
 
The softer white foams should always be at the bottom (in first). I tend to then to put the softer followed by the stiffer elastomers - although I don't think it matters too much. However as you point out the yellow one is thinner (presumably to allow it to expand), so if using that I put it at the top so that a thicker one presses more evenly on the foam below.
I know white foam is first, I didn't know how it's called in English, so I left it out of the post lol. Thanks for making sure though. That is interesting about yellow, that you also found the same. Shame it's like that. I might give the stiffest combo a try again, so I don't have to worry about it. Placebo or not ha.

Appreciate your help once again!
 
Looking at the settings here In-Game Settings for Pro Wheels – Logitech Support + Download and then looking at the image on the side, the ANGLE for ACC says 1080 on the website but in the image, the STEER LOCK says 900. Should these not be the same?
The ACC on PS5 is a little bit strange (have no idea about Xbox). Every time the game is started it puts your G Pro base at 900 angle. So, both wheels to be aligned in sync, you need to use in game 900 angle also and steering scale at 82-83% or it won't work correctly.

Deffo the pics in the recommended settings for ACC on PS5 should be updated.
 
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@LOGI_Rich Hi Rich question, just connected the shifter to Logi Pro wheel + Pedals to a PS5. However the clutch pedal doesn’t work for some reason. The game recognizes it in the option menu but it doesn’t work while driving.. Is that latest GHUB update going to fix this?

Many thanks!
 
@LOGI_Rich Hi Rich question, just connected the shifter to Logi Pro wheel + Pedals to a PS5. However the clutch pedal doesn’t work for some reason. The game recognizes it in the option menu but it doesn’t work while driving.. Is that latest GHUB update going to fix this?

Many thanks!
This GT7? If so I think PD doesn’t understand how a clutch actually works. So you’re out of luck.
 
@LOGI_Rich Hi Rich question, just connected the shifter to Logi Pro wheel + Pedals to a PS5. However the clutch pedal doesn’t work for some reason. The game recognizes it in the option menu but it doesn’t work while driving.. Is that latest GHUB update going to fix this?

Many thanks!
As shown by the test screen, it's not a wheel issue. The most obvious question is whether you're testing this in single player or multiplayer? The reason is because Polyphony don't allow the use of manual shifting in multiplayer...

If that's not the answer then please explain exactly how it's not working.
 
As shown by the test screen, it's not a wheel issue. The most obvious question is whether you're testing this in single player or multiplayer? The reason is because Polyphony don't allow the use of manual shifting in multiplayer...

If that's not the answer then please explain exactly how it's not working.
GT7 Single player, clutch works in the options menu and I can calibrate it etc. But as soon as i start driving it doesn’t work, the shifter works, just the clutch pedal doesn’t do anything while actually driving.

(Logitech G Pro Wheel+ Pro pedals + Logitech shifter/adapter.

The car I tested on is the Mclaren F1 GTR 95 which should have a manual H pattern gearbox…
 
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GT7 Single player, clutch works in the options menu and I can calibrate it etc. But as soon as i start driving it doesn’t work, the shifter works, just the clutch pedal doesn’t do anything while actually driving.

(Logitech G Pro Wheel+ Pro pedals + Logitech shifter/adapter.

The car I tested on is the Mclaren F1 GTR 95 which should have a manual H pattern gearbox…
Try another car.
 
As per the comments on the last page, this sounds correct - you've possibly just got everything turned up too high? What do you have the TF Audio set to on the wheel base (and in the control options of ACC - you need to scroll down in the middle section of the options to see it)?
 
Do you guys think these sounds are normal?
The Trueforce audio noises sound much like mine does if I were to turn them up high in ACC. I prefer them more subdued. Shame there's not any individual sliders (engine, road etc) in ACC to tune them more finely. Well on console anyway, not sure about PC.

Also check the tightness of the 3 base mounting bolts on your Trophy rig occasionally. I find they can loosen a little over time. Possibly because of the Trueforce vibrations.
 
Thanks guys, just making sure. It was 100 on base, 20 in game. Definitely agree that tuning would improve it a lot for acc at least

@IfAndOr I know it's preference, but out of curiosity, which brake stiffness have you ended up going with?
 
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Try swapping them around, 100 (or less) in game and around 20 on the base.

The thing with the TF audio is that folks try to replicate the effects of butt kickers, making their rigs vibrate etc. Although it can do that to an extent, I don't think it's intended for that. It's designed more to give subtle effects to aid feedback and immersion.


After much swapping around of the elastomers I've decided to go with the stiffest setup - harder foam, Red and Brown. At the moment anyway. I do occasionally swap the red out for the yellow, it gives a more progressive feel. I usually have it set to around 30 - 35 Nm of pressure.

It all depends on what game you're playing most of really. ACC with all its racecars works well being stiff. A game featuring more road cars is probably better with a bit more travel.
 
I have been doing exactly the same, we think alike a lot haha. Inching my way up from 30 to current 35. I do get the feeling that higher is better as long as its still comfortable to get to 100% and hold it there. And for stiffness 28mm was cool too at the start, but now switching between 18 and 24 with 18mm being the currently installed like you.

And thanks bro I give that a try.
 
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One thing I've been meaning to try, but not done so yet, was to put some softer elastomers in - for a longer travel - but then increase the pressure required to reach 100%. I'm not sure what effect/feel that would give. Might be a bit odd. I'll give it a go one of these days.
 
One thing I've been meaning to try, but not done so yet, was to put some softer elastomers in - for a longer travel - but then increase the pressure required to reach 100%. I'm not sure what effect/feel that would give. Might be a bit odd. I'll give it a go one of these days.
Give it a shot you might like it. For me longer travel is more comfortable to have less kilos. Harder to put weight on it.

Btw it was at least more silent with other way around. Man these in game settings...welp finally did profiles for each game as I mentioned I would do couple pages back, but somehow never did lol.
 
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Thanks guys, just making sure. It was 100 on base, 20 in game. Definitely agree that tuning would improve it a lot for acc at least

@IfAndOr I know it's preference, but out of curiosity, which brake stiffness have you ended up going with?
I'm using TF100 in base and 20 in game settings, since a long time and it feels OK for me on both PC and Console, though on console with the same settings the TF is a little bit more pronounced than PC. I'm not able to see your video.

For load cell, I'm using 30kg with the hardest elastomers. Back in the early days I started with 40kg, then lowered to 35kg, but I find I have pain in my leg when doing long sessions with 35-40kg, though I'm using simracing shoes.

For ACC on PS5, I recommended adding 1% dead zone in the in-game menu, no matter what settings you are using for you brake pedal.
 
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I'm using TF100 in base and 20 in game settings, since a long time and it feels OK for me on both PC and Console, though on console with the same settings the TF is a little bit more pronounced than PC. I'm not able to see your video.

For load cell, I'm using 30kg with the hardest elastomers. Back in the early days I started with 40kg, then lowered to 35kg, but I find I have pain in my leg when doing long sessions with 35-40kg, though I'm using simracing shoes.
I put it back up. Yeah feel wise it's OK, I'm just madly annoyed by the sound it produces in ACC. Headphones obvious solution. Trueforce is interesting, I love it for GT7, I hate it for F1 and I'm indifferent for ACC. Really game dependant on my experience. I heard it's amazing for IRacing, which I want to get eventually.

That is interesting, do you mean like foot or whole leg? I started to get some pain on my foot and now that you mention it, it was right when I had upped the kilos. Didn't think it was related, but you got me thinking.
 
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I put it back up. Yeah feel wise it's OK, I'm just madly annoyed by the sound it produces in ACC. Headphones obvious solution. Trueforce is interesting, I love it for GT7, I hate it for F1 and I'm indifferent for ACC. Really game dependant on my experience. I heard it's amazing for IRacing, which I want to get eventually.

That is interesting, do you mean like foot or whole leg? I started to get some pain on my foot and now that you mention it, it was right when I had upped the kilos. Didn't think it was related, but you got me thinking.
If I start the game by mistake from my keyboard on console, usually my wheel have no TF, when I go to track and ACC feels so dead without TF. I need to exit the game and re-launch it from the wheel so TF comes back.

Maybe, I'll try in base 100 and in game 15 and see how it will feel.

I mean pain in hip joint (if this is the correct word) of my left leg.
 
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Just received a Logitech G Pro racing wheel yesterday purchased directly from Logitech. Box says it's for PC or PS5. I have it all set up, but no racing for me. The wheel won't calibrate, or make any effort to spin. It's on a PS5. I have the pedal set also. The blue light on the brick is on, the message on the display is on PS5. Wire from the PS to the wheel is connected and appears to be firmly in place. Anything simple perhaps?
 
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How’s that for customer service! @pmallard asked a setup question at 10:48. First time using it, no worse feeling then a new product not working for whatever reason. He’s all set up, ready to race…. Hmmm need to troubleshoot. Great choice coming on here.

@LOGI_Rich responded at 10:49 !!!!!! Simple fix, I have done the same thing, but still he needed the information in order to proceed. 1 minute response time!

@pmallard was up and running in 4 minutes.

1 minute response
4 minutes total time from oh crap this might not work at the moment, to literally the “logi tech” rep helping you get on your way. I love my pro wheel, and this was cool to see. I think on behalf of everyone, thankyou for all of the support @LOGI_Rich.
 
The only time I’ve needed assistance for one of my two Pro Wheels was during the last firmware update when it was first released. One wheel got stuck and couldn’t complete the update. A quick online chat through support resolved the issue. Basically I didn’t power cycle the wheel long enough when it promted me.
The power supply holds a residual charge that has to dissipate by leaving it unplugged for about 30s longer.
Was very impressed with how quickly I was helped.
How’s that for customer service! @pmallard asked a setup question at 10:48. First time using it, no worse feeling then a new product not working for whatever reason. He’s all set up, ready to race…. Hmmm need to troubleshoot. Great choice coming on here.

@LOGI_Rich responded at 10:49 !!!!!! Simple fix, I have done the same thing, but still he needed the information in order to proceed. 1 minute response time!

@pmallard was up and running in 4 minutes.

1 minute response
4 minutes total time from oh crap this might not work at the moment, to literally the “logi tech” rep helping you get on your way. I love my pro wheel, and this was cool to see. I think on behalf of everyone, thankyou for all of the support @LOGI_Rich.
 
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