need help GT World Championship

Hey guys i posted a while ago in this thread and al of you helped me so i was wondering if u could do it just one more time i have done 7 world championship events (world championship that is) and i am stuck on paris opera i just cant do it for some reason, i cant really turn properly and feel i maybe am not fast enough i am using the minolta with well over a 1000 hp but just keep crashing or getting over taken please can u help me by either telling me what settings you used or by giving me someone tactics thanks ever so much




:crazy: please help
 
rad.com
Hey guys i posted a while ago in this thread and al of you helped me so i was wondering if u could do it just one more time i have done 7 world championship events (world championship that is) and i am stuck on paris opera i just cant do it for some reason, i cant really turn properly and feel i maybe am not fast enough i am using the minolta with well over a 1000 hp but just keep crashing or getting over taken please can u help me by either telling me what settings you used or by giving me someone tactics thanks ever so much




Braking for entry is key here. Straights are long enough to get some speed but most turns are fairly low speed. Practice braking and make note of entry speed to ALL turns. Play with entry speed and speed through turn and exit speed, until you get the best time. Also take HP back to stock. That's way to much HP for this track.
 
I agree with jparker. You have tooooo much HP... lose the turbo and go back to stock. He is also right about figuring out the braking... Takes a little practice to force yourself to brake a little earlier than you normally would think. I would add to his advice: Just after braking and turning in, wait (coast) until the attitude of the car is right on or after the exit of the apex before stomping back on the gas. (BTW, don't "stomp"... ease back on)

As in all city driving, ignore the walls and concentrate on hitting the apex just like you would on any other track. Most folks have a tendency to forget about that basic rule of racing in the city and I personally think it is because of the barriers and walls. The walls give you the illusion of corners being sharper than they really are. That sets you up to overbrake more often than not, therefore you enter slower and subsequently, find yourself needing to over accelerate as you exit. Truth be told, I think the gauge here is to realize that there are only really three or four sharp corners on this whole track. If you think there are more than that, you are missing apexes.

Think of them as curbs. Find a rhythm that is smooth and consistent. Get yourself to where you are carrying momentum through the corner and not trying to gain it all back after the corner. Try even stretching your gears out a bit (ie- move the autoset to the right so your highest gear goes down). Less "get up and go" but will help you to drive for momentum and not catchup. Also will help your tire life.

Some helps to that are:

Soften up the ride a little, maybe adjust more with the bound/rebound than with the springs. I think I set mine at (Bound 5/7 Rebound 5/7) Make sure your ride height at Paris is at least 20 clicks over the lowest setting and maybe even try 25 clicks. You need to smooth out the "choppyness" of the street race here and leave room for the suspension to be taxed.

Set your ASM/TCS to whatever feels best for you but somewhere around 0/0/4 and 0/0/7 so you aren't roasting the rears all the time.

On that track I run -1 rear toe to help facilitate turning. I might even run just the opposite in the front toe at 1.

You may want to try a little "tail-braking" assist if you run automatic... What I mean is to set the rear brakes at like 1 higher than your front so you can move the rear a bit quicker as you are turning by tapping the brakes. Careful though, takes a bit of practice and forces you to brake in more of a straight line the balance of the time (which, on this track is what you should be doing anyway).

Don't let the car ahead of you fluster your driving. Drive YOUR race, catching and passing will come best if you drive YOUR race. Don't forget the strategy of running the R3/R2 combo that works best at Hong Kong might be best for you here too.

Other notes from my screwups here (one of my favorite tracks BTW):

Braking points where I was loosing the greatest amount of time were the long back straight into the tight left and hairpin right. There are three overhead signs (white) counting down the distance to the tight left. I found that if I started my braking just after I passed under the first sign, I could hit that tight left apex much better and I could subsequently set up a much later apex on the hairpin instead of having to make the entire corner a carousel. I bet I shaved 1.5 seconds off my lap time in just figuring that one corner out. (That is not to mention the time loss due to gaining back momentum.)

Another time loss for me was the long chicane like area where you slow, jog right and then back left. When I finally figured out the right way to hit the apexes right on those two jogs, I shaved another second off my lap time. I was originally taking that in 4 turns and then figured out that really there are only 3 turns. One right on entry, straight through two, gentle arching left, straight through two and then another right on exit. Brake early (before you pass under the sign), coast for a sec as you turn in, throttle control through and as you set up exit through the last two on the other side, you can find a happy point in there where if you do it right, you are full throttle through the exit.

I found a similar technique on the back and forth slalom course just before the start/finish worked wonders on my time as well. It is straighter and faster through there than you first think if you get your throttle control right.

Watch out for the bump in the left side of the road just before the sweeping right onto the back straight! I have hit that on more than one occasion and I discovered I was wwaaayy missing the apex of that sweeper if I hit that bump in the road. You miss it completely if you are hitting the apex of the sweeper cause you should have started the gentle turn-in long before the bump. Believe it or not, it is almost no brakes and almost full throttle through the sweeper on to that straight. You exit onto the straight really tight to the wall on the left.

Smooth (in spite of the choppy feel of the street)=Fast so go smooth-smooth-smooth :)

Hope this helps... 👍

phattboy
 
I've run a couple of test sessions in the 350Z LM car. Its fast enough to hang and even outrun the R92C and such in the straights.. its just the downforce isn't enough in the corner. I think with tuning I could hold my own.. I just can't seem to get it quite there. I can dial in a little understeer and the car turns way to much entering in to a turn. I just need a little more traction in the corners, like for example that long turn on Tokyo. I can get the car balanced as far as understeer/oversteer.. I just need a little more traction in the corners.
 
Shentar
I've run a couple of test sessions in the 350Z LM car. Its fast enough to hang and even outrun the R92C and such in the straights.. its just the downforce isn't enough in the corner. I think with tuning I could hold my own.. I just can't seem to get it quite there. I can dial in a little understeer and the car turns way to much entering in to a turn. I just need a little more traction in the corners, like for example that long turn on Tokyo. I can get the car balanced as far as understeer/oversteer.. I just need a little more traction in the corners.

Have you seen this thread? Interesting read for what you're trying...
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=61239

Good Luck!!!

phattboy
 
phattboy
I agree with jparker. You have tooooo much HP... lose the turbo and go back to stock. He is also right about figuring out the braking... Takes a little practice to force yourself to brake a little earlier than you normally would think. I would add to his advice: Just after braking and turning in, wait (coast) until the attitude of the car is right on or after the exit of the apex before stomping back on the gas. (BTW, don't "stomp"... ease back on)

As in all city driving, ignore the walls and concentrate on hitting the apex just like you would on any other track. Most folks have a tendency to forget about that basic rule of racing in the city and I personally think it is because of the barriers and walls. The walls give you the illusion of corners being sharper than they really are. That sets you up to overbrake more often than not, therefore you enter slower and subsequently, find yourself needing to over accelerate as you exit. Truth be told, I think the gauge here is to realize that there are only really three or four sharp corners on this whole track. If you think there are more than that, you are missing apexes.

Think of them as curbs. Find a rhythm that is smooth and consistent. Get yourself to where you are carrying momentum through the corner and not trying to gain it all back after the corner. Try even stretching your gears out a bit (ie- move the autoset to the right so your highest gear goes down). Less "get up and go" but will help you to drive for momentum and not catchup. Also will help your tire life.

Some helps to that are:

Soften up the ride a little, maybe adjust more with the bound/rebound than with the springs. I think I set mine at (Bound 5/7 Rebound 5/7) Make sure your ride height at Paris is at least 20 clicks over the lowest setting and maybe even try 25 clicks. You need to smooth out the "choppyness" of the street race here and leave room for the suspension to be taxed.

Set your ASM/TCS to whatever feels best for you but somewhere around 0/0/4 and 0/0/7 so you aren't roasting the rears all the time.

On that track I run -1 rear toe to help facilitate turning. I might even run just the opposite in the front toe at 1.

You may want to try a little "tail-braking" assist if you run automatic... What I mean is to set the rear brakes at like 1 higher than your front so you can move the rear a bit quicker as you are turning by tapping the brakes. Careful though, takes a bit of practice and forces you to brake in more of a straight line the balance of the time (which, on this track is what you should be doing anyway).

Don't let the car ahead of you fluster your driving. Drive YOUR race, catching and passing will come best if you drive YOUR race. Don't forget the strategy of running the R3/R2 combo that works best at Hong Kong might be best for you here too.

Other notes from my screwups here (one of my favorite tracks BTW):

Braking points where I was loosing the greatest amount of time were the long back straight into the tight left and hairpin right. There are three overhead signs (white) counting down the distance to the tight left. I found that if I started my braking just after I passed under the first sign, I could hit that tight left apex much better and I could subsequently set up a much later apex on the hairpin instead of having to make the entire corner a carousel. I bet I shaved 1.5 seconds off my lap time in just figuring that one corner out. (That is not to mention the time loss due to gaining back momentum.)

Another time loss for me was the long chicane like area where you slow, jog right and then back left. When I finally figured out the right way to hit the apexes right on those two jogs, I shaved another second off my lap time. I was originally taking that in 4 turns and then figured out that really there are only 3 turns. One right on entry, straight through two, gentle arching left, straight through two and then another right on exit. Brake early (before you pass under the sign), coast for a sec as you turn in, throttle control through and as you set up exit through the last two on the other side, you can find a happy point in there where if you do it right, you are full throttle through the exit.

I found a similar technique on the back and forth slalom course just before the start/finish worked wonders on my time as well. It is straighter and faster through there than you first think if you get your throttle control right.

Watch out for the bump in the left side of the road just before the sweeping right onto the back straight! I have hit that on more than one occasion and I discovered I was wwaaayy missing the apex of that sweeper if I hit that bump in the road. You miss it completely if you are hitting the apex of the sweeper cause you should have started the gentle turn-in long before the bump. Believe it or not, it is almost no brakes and almost full throttle through the sweeper on to that straight. You exit onto the straight really tight to the wall on the left.

Smooth (in spite of the choppy feel of the street)=Fast so go smooth-smooth-smooth :)

Hope this helps... 👍

phattboy


thnaks ever so much phattboy i will try this as see how i get on
 
Shentar
I've run a couple of test sessions in the 350Z LM car. Its fast enough to hang and even outrun the R92C and such in the straights.. its just the downforce isn't enough in the corner. I think with tuning I could hold my own.. I just can't seem to get it quite there. I can dial in a little understeer and the car turns way to much entering in to a turn. I just need a little more traction in the corners, like for example that long turn on Tokyo. I can get the car balanced as far as understeer/oversteer.. I just need a little more traction in the corners.


Are you still talking about the last race in professional??? I have run the 350Z LM car and it gets absolutely smoked on the first straight in the first race. The only way I was keeping up was with "the sauce" and once that runs out it's over. Did you change the gearing???? Your not the first to say the 350z LM car is sufficient......I just need a car thats going to keep up, im not worried about my driving :irked:
 
If you are doing alright but struggling to maintain your pace, theres a really, really cheap way of doing it. I call it "creative ramming". Line the 1st/2nd place car up with the pits and make sure he goes in, congratulations you now have a 30 second lead.
 
Crayola
If you are doing alright but struggling to maintain your pace, theres a really, really cheap way of doing it. I call it "creative ramming". Line the 1st/2nd place car up with the pits and make sure he goes in, congratulations you now have a 30 second lead.


LOL thats hilarious, however I would rather win the race because I out drove the field rather than ram them into the pits. Definitely got a good laugh out of it 👍

I just don't understand how people are keeping pace with the 350 LM car, because it's not doing it for me........
 
hey guys once agin i am stuck i did opera paris thanks too all your help nut now i am stuck of suzuka 9 laps its a real hard circuit and was wondering if any of you have any settings ot tatics for me thnaks alot

:indiff: :crazy: :indiff:

(by the way this is the gt world championships)
 
rad.com
hey guys once agin i am stuck i did opera paris thanks too all your help nut now i am stuck of suzuka 9 laps its a real hard circuit and was wondering if any of you have any settings ot tatics for me thnaks alot

:indiff: :crazy: :indiff:

(by the way this is the gt world championships)

My best advice is this:

Keep saying to yourself...

Suzuka is not a real hard circuit.

Suzuka is not a real hard circuit.

Suzuka is not a real hard circuit.

Suzuka is not a real hard circuit.

If you keep going at these races thinking they are "real hard", they will be hard.

That being said, set up your car so the ride height is lower than you just ran at Opera... say 10 clicks over the bottom. Then set your front bound/rebound down so you can absorb the curbs/rumble strips better cause I think the best way to run this course is to hit the inside apex at the rumble strip as you enter the corner and then gently accelerate/carry your momentum all the way out of the corner to the other rumble strip at the other side of the track. At some points on the sharper turns you actually take the rumble strip with your inside front.

Leave your gears stretched out so you have throttle control at speed through the long sweeping esses. Drive this course for momentum maintenance and not for big throttle acceleration. That means judicious use of your brakes- not hard use of your brakes. You may even want to set them down a little bit from where you had them at Opera and learn your brake points on this track.

Catchers for loss of time that I found at Suzuka:

At the end of the front straight and at the beginning of the back straight there are almost identical corners even though one is a right and the other is a left. They are identical because they consist of two corners each to reverse your direction by 180 degrees. The first half of the corner on each is a much gentler turn than the second half of each. You only need use your brakes to gently slow for that first half of each (IE: a bump of the brakes and a coast through with even a little throttle if you figure it out). Figure those two corners out and you will gain seconds on your lap times.

Use all the track at Suzuka! If you aren't using the entire width of the track you are going too slow.

At the end of the back straight- don't use too much brake for the corner. If you do, you will literally loose seconds off your lap time. Apex that corner correctly and use all of the track entering and exiting. Try to carry as much momentum as you can through that corner.

Just after that corner, you have a short straight that takes you under an arch and then the quick right, quick left and then sweeping right back onto the front straight. After you pass under the arch, the quick right is almost a blind corner that surprises you everytime at how quickly it comes up. Because of that, you have a tendency to then overbrake to make the corner and give up a ton of momentum. Overcome this by consciously remembering it is coming each lap as soon as you see the arch. Then start to slow your momentum by starting to pump your brakes before the arch. As soon as you pass under the arch, get on them hard enough in a straight line to slow you enough to make the turn then get back off them and turn in taking the rumble strip straight across with your front right, do the same on the left and then control the acceleration through the sweeping right onto the front straight using the entire track just like at the esses. Again, learning this one gave me back at least a second on the lap time.

Another time killer is after the esses, where you do a long sweeping left, down a little straight and then a hard right, short straight and another hard right. Brake sooner than you think. For the first right after the sweeper, the brake point is two signs back from the corner, no later or you are in the run off area. The turn in is sooner than you will have a tendency to turn in if you want to apex that corner right.

Don't go over the rumble strips with the throttle on or your back will spin you. Coast over the rumble strips and then throttle on.

Most importantly, look at the track. Here as at Motegi as at Grand Valley, as at Fuji, there are black wear marks that are a dead giveaway as to generally the best line. Adjust yourself so you can follow those darker areas through the cornering sections and you are about as straight as you can through this course. I'm not saying these are the fastest lines, just winnable lines to give you an idea of where you should be. It makes me mad that PD did this but it is there none-the-less.

Good Luck! 👍

phattboy
 
Famine
LMP = Le Mans Prototype, the top class of Le Mans cars. These include the BMW LMR V12, Mazda 787B, Toyota TS020 GT-One, Nissan R390 GT1 LM, Bentley Speed 8 EXP, Audi R8 (although the Japanese ones are old GT1-class, they are pretty much the equivalent). Group C racers are the same things, but older and with chunks more power - Toyota Minolta 88C, Nissan R89C, Nissan R92CP, Sauber C9.

You can get them by checking one of the prize car lists.
Its odd that the Group-C cars are so competitive, would the LMP-900 cars be able to beat them easily, stock for stock? Im guessing IRL the Group-C cars would have better top speeds (well the '89 ones anyway).
 
The race can also be one by a stock Nissan R89 with tweaked gearing and camber. As that is what i used to win the gt championship series. Just to make it a bit harder on myself i didnt even bother practicing to get a better grid position. Like other people have said do not add a turbo to the car. It just makes things a bit easier this way.

Pit strategy is paramount on this event as well, if you do not get your pit strategy right (as mentioned in this thread) you will have your ass handed to you. As what happened to me in two of the races.

Also to get this car you dont need to spend any money getting it either, as when you finish the mission hall this car is given to you. On that point as well, there are a lot cars to get when you finish sections of the mission hall and getting gold on the licence tests see here for PAL GT4 Prize Car List On thing to note with mission 34 is practice. Also when doing the missions, if you do not complete the objective before the finish line restart the mission before finishing the mission otherwise you will use 1 day to restart after you have finished the failed mission.

Also just because you dont get into first position by the end of the first lap doesnt mean you cannot win the race.
 
Welcome to GTPlanet, "GT4 Girl AU."

On to my main point... I don't hate Suzuka, but it's a tough cookie. If you consider racing the JGTC in real life, three challenging courses are all in Gran Turismo 4- Motegi Road Course, Fuji Speedway, and Suzuka Circuit. All three of them have a distinct challenge to them. Fuji has high speeds, but don't be fooled by some of the decreasing radius turns and very slow chicanes. Motegi's corners are just about all critical. One mistake can be just enough to take you out of the outright win. Suzuka Circuit is very long with a nice blend of high speed and technical corners. To me, the biggest on-course challenges will come from Denger Curve, Spoon Curve, and last but not least, the Casio Triangle. Get this wrong in A-Spec or B-Spec, and this won't make your day any easier.

Now in my case, I have yet to win Suzuka Circuit in the GT World Championship. I can't right now because I'm doing the 24 Hours of Le Mans (with chicanes). Suzuka is tough enough, but with Minolta Toyotas and Nissan GTPs, it's no cakewalk. If you're just trying to clear this race, you'll have to be extra careful not to get any of the turns wrong. I say if you have a JGTC race car or maybe a GT race car, practice the course with it, and if you have a bigtime race car, give it a Hard/Super Hard tire setting for the front and rear respectively. I think you won't have to make pit stops to win at Suzuka. So just hang in there, study the track, and if you have to, redo that License Test with the Pace Car at Suzuka. Anyway you can learn the track can be crucial to winning. And if you want to step it up, race the Super License test featuring the hellishly mean Motul Pitwork Nissan Fairlady Z/350Z.
 
phattboy
Actually, now you've created confusion. Re-read what I wrote. You are talking about the sweeping left at the end of the back straight which I talked about in the paragraph before.

I am talking here about the sweeping right onto the front straight after what you are calling the chicanes.

phattboy
Oh Ok, sorry I know where you mean now. Ill edit my post.
 
i dont undersdand the difficulty make sure u have downforce crancked up and control the throttle, i managed it in the toyota 7 which handles terrible. for the record i too could keep up in the 350Z LM
 
I'll have to give the Z LM a run. So far I've beat it with the Minolta "duh", Black r92, black Toyo GT1, Black Nissan 390, all stock. The only real good run was the Nissan, the others were a landslide. Well with the exception of Nurb. I always forget to go to a harder tire here. I get 3/4 of the way through and loose my rear tires and have to exit. Tried once way back with the Ford '05 GT Lm and got hammered.
 
Crap... My B-spec driver does ok on the first couple GT world Champ races, but gets stuck behind slower cars and can't figure out how to pass them... Meanwhile, the no.2 car flies past both of us, and takes the win... Very very irking... but, then again, he only had about 55-56 battle points... so he's still dumber then mud...
 
cisobe
Crap... My B-spec driver does ok on the first couple GT world Champ races, but gets stuck behind slower cars and can't figure out how to pass them... Meanwhile, the no.2 car flies past both of us, and takes the win... Very very irking... but, then again, he only had about 55-56 battle points... so he's still dumber then mud...

Even when I run a whole series like this one in Bspec I still qualify. He does a lot better when he starts out in front. LOL I stuck him in the Minolta, qualified first in all races and he managed to keep it.
 
I previously did this series with the Minolta, but then I saw people were doing this series with CLK GTR's I figured it's time to do it in a harder car, with a full strength field, so:

I'm currently doing this race in the Toyota GT-ONE (stock, w/ oil change). The Minolta and Nissan R92CP haven't had a chance! I've won every event except Hong Kong, which I lost by thismuch, :banghead: and Opera Paris Reverse. I'm currently at Race 9 and the points are like this:

1st: Toyota GT-ONE (me): 72pts
2nd: Minolta Toyota 88 C-V: 43 pts
3rd: Nissan R92CP: 42 pts
4th: Jaguar XJR-9: 27 pts
5th: Mercedes CLK GTR: 16 pts
6th: Ford GT LM: 8 pts

As you can see, I have a 29 point difference between me and the Minolta, and yes, the Ford GT is getting owned. Now that I've done this series in the GT-ONE, I plan to do this series in several of the weaker cars. Here's my list:

Chapparal 2J
Gillet Vertigo
Nissan R390 GT1
Peugeuot 905
Mercedes CLK GTR

Wish me luck :) , especially with the Vertigo! :lol:
 
torque998
Chapparal 2J
Gillet Vertigo
Nissan R390 GT1
Peugeuot 905
Mercedes CLK GTR

Wish me luck :) , especially with the Vertigo! :lol:

Actually, I will personally wish you luck in not only the Gillet but even moreso in the Chappy! Good Luck! 👍

phattboy
 
Hmm, I tried some races with the Zonda Race car in stock, but I can only win that if my laps are 1 second faster or something like that.
 
Hey torque,
The R390 is quite easy to win with. I ran the series with the black version and it was rather easy, especially if you qualify. Coming from the back adds a little more competition. I also plan to try the series with a lesser LM car. My past experience with the 350Z LM was a disaster, but I haven't dismissed it. I also tried with the NSX concept LM. The acceleration with the NSX is pitiful. I'm also thinking maybe the Ford GT SpecII.
So far I've won rather easily with the following: Black-R390, Toyo GT1, R92, Minolta. The R92, GT1, and Minolta were too easy. All were run stock with the exception of Med Hard on the rear of the R92 and Minolta, and a few suspension tweaks. Downforce was increased on the R390 to max when needed. At LeSarthe and Nurb to acheive high speed without vibration softer springs and shocks are a must.
 
jparker_1987
Hey torque,
The R390 is quite easy to win with. I ran the series with the black version and it was rather easy, especially if you qualify. Coming from the back adds a little more competition. I also plan to try the series with a lesser LM car. My past experience with the 350Z LM was a disaster, but I haven't dismissed it. I also tried with the NSX concept LM. The acceleration with the NSX is pitiful. I'm also thinking maybe the Ford GT SpecII.
So far I've won rather easily with the following: Black-R390, Toyo GT1, R92, Minolta. The R92, GT1, and Minolta were too easy. All were run stock with the exception of Med Hard on the rear of the R92 and Minolta, and a few suspension tweaks. Downforce was increased on the R390 to max when needed. At LeSarthe and Nurb to acheive high speed without vibration softer springs and shocks are a must.

Just for clarification... You ran the Black R390 stock (meaning with no turbo) and were able to qualify first in the races and take the series win?

phattboy
 
phattboy
Just for clarification... You ran the Black R390 stock (meaning with no turbo) and were able to qualify first in the races and take the series win?

phattboy
Yea man,
Stock like I bought it, tires and all. A few minor suspension settings, ASM 0,0,3 ( I play with a controller so throttle control is rather tough in 1st, maxed the downforce, LSD 20,40,17. A few were good strong wins and a few were pretty tight. I also think I may have strengthened the brakes a little to maybe 4 or 5, but the same front and rear.
 

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