New Seasonal at La Sarthe: Bob wants to pit all the time

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Is it possible to use any other car apart from the 2J though?

Like maybe the Audi R10?

Yes, like I told before, I won by over 1min using the Audi R8 race car (I think 01 is the year, right now I am trying the 2J but I can confirm after that). Just look for my post in this very same page where I explain how to do it.
 
I've just won in the TS020 again and I've discovered the connection... It was the absence from the grid of the BMW V12 LMR '99.

My Bobs seem to get stuck behind the BMW a lot and when he can get past - on the Hunaudieres - the BMW just scythes back past in any turn he feels like passing. It's incredibly aggressively driven. No BMW and, despite a slower time (40'48.2 with the TS020 on a BMW grid, 4th place; 40'49.7 with the TS020 on a non-BMW grid, win), Bob passes all up to the lead pack and gubs them on the Lap 9 pit stop.

So for all of those of you who are struggling, try reloading the line-up until there's no BMW.
 
Is it possible to use any other car apart from the 2J though?

Like maybe the Audi R10?


Tried the R10 and failed with it - tires quit on the last lap, and I lost nearly a minute (had a 34-second lead at the start of the lap, and lost by 24 seconds, all that time seeming to be lost in the last half of the lap. :( )


But I then tried the '01 Audi R8 (the open-top LeMans racer, not the sport coupe that just came out a couple years ago). Big turbo, 880-some HP, minimal downforce, top speed on gearbox set at 255mph, started on Sports Softs (yes I did), kept 'em on 'til end of L5, swapped for Racing Intermediates, and went on to the end on those. Won it by just over 7 seconds with this.

Others have won with the Peugeot 908 HDI FAP (very few, but at least one person has), the Toyota GT-ONE, and others.

Meanwhile, if anyone needs to borrow a Chappy 2J, just hit me up. "Kwicko" on PSN, and I've got one set to shared status. Or let me know what else you'd like to try it with, and I'll see what I can do.
 
I've just won in the TS020 again and I've discovered the connection... It was the absence from the grid of the BMW V12 LMR '99.

My Bobs seem to get stuck behind the BMW a lot and when he can get past - on the Hunaudieres - the BMW just scythes back past in any turn he feels like passing. It's incredibly aggressively driven. No BMW and, despite a slower time (40'48.2 with the TS020 on a BMW grid, 4th place; 40'49.7 with the TS020 on a non-BMW grid, win), Bob passes all up to the lead pack and gubs them on the Lap 9 pit stop.

So for all of those of you who are struggling, try reloading the line-up until there's no BMW.


Interesting, and good info to have. I've wrestled with that darn Beemer, trading paint, swapping positions like we were trying out the Kama Sutra, going back and forth... He ends up taking up so much of your time that the first- and second-place runners just pull out huge leads while you're tangled up with the BMW. He gave my '01 Audi R8 hell, but he finally overshot the turn at the end of the Mulsanne straight, and I blew by and he never caught up after that. After I was done with him, it seemed I caught up the others pretty quickly.

But yeah, he's a bugger. Getting a line-up without the BMW would be a lot better.
 
What a gigantic pain Sarthe was. I registered to thank Famine for his tip about the TS020 and to outline how I did it with the Toyota...

My best two drivers were (before leveling after the race) a class 32 leaning towards the cool side and a level 26 leaning towards the hot side. I adjusted the top speed to 254 mph, changed the oil, and then reduced the power a few notches to get the PP down to 700. Otherwise no changes.

My starting driver was 26; I wanted to leave the big single stretch in the middle to my class 32 driver. I started with RH tires, and for me the trick seemed to be to pit at the end of lap 2 instead of lap 3 like a majority of the cars wanted to. At that point I went with a set of RIs and put in 32 as the driver.

When I came out of the pits I was in 11th, and for this lap I kept the mood meter pegged red to take full advantage of the grip difference between my car and everybody else's (my RIs versus their RHs). When I came around the next lap I passed all but one car and was in second place. After some battling with the Audi R8 that was in the lead I settled for sticking it out in 2nd place. Every time I passed the Audi he'd come right back and retake the lead.

At the end of the 8th lap my driver and tires were getting tired, so I hit the pits as I had intended to at the beginning of the race and threw on another set of RIs. Again, coming out of the pits I kept the mood meter pegged red because I wanted to make up as much ground as possible while the other cars were at a dead stop in the pits.

This part is critical, DO NOT let your driver pit at the end of the 9th lap for RH tires. He's going to want to, and if you let him you just wasted the entire race.

Thankfully I grabbed 1st place the next time I came around, although not by much. 2nd place was *just* out of slipstream range. After I took the lead I throttled the mood meter down to 75% to avoid an off track excursion and spammed the "maintain" button while watching the time splits. I was making it through each segment a few tenths of a second faster and rode it out for the win.

I don't remember exactly how many seconds I won by, but again, it wasn't by much. 2nd place finished just outside of drafting range.

As for Spa, I've been using my top driver and have won every time I've attempted it. The first time I did it at level 30 in an '08 Calsonic IMPUL GT-R at dead stock settings starting on RI tires.

Thanks for the tips guys. I had to do it the hard way since I don't have a 2J available, but for the record I tried with the 787B, Minolta, and Toyota 7. The ticket got me a Pescarolo Courage-Judd GV5.
 
Pits - On your display, just to left of your rage bar is a black box. When he's going to pit-in a yellow "P" will appear. Just keep an eye out for it and cancel when you see it.
 
If you want an almost certain victory, use a 2J on sports softs. Unlike race hards, sports softs can handle the wet stuff too and can last the full 10 laps with room to spare. So, don't pit at all and let the opponents do their usual 2-stop nonsense.

It's a cheap method though.

Holy cow! Thanks for the tip! :cheers:

Just some stuff you'll find if you race the 2J on Sport Softs:
-Bob doesn't EVER have to pit, despite his Strength and Mental Strength
-the other cars pit twice
-during lap 8, one car will overtake you, but it will pit for a second time, giving you the lead again
-on the final lap, your heart will be beating as the car behind starts to catch up again

I kept on telling him to Pace Up, until the final lap, where I was worried about him making a mistake.

I managed to beat the car behind by 8 seconds.

Good luck all!
 
VTiRoj
If you want an almost certain victory, use a 2J on sports softs. Unlike race hards, sports softs can handle the wet stuff too and can last the full 10 laps with room to spare. So, don't pit at all and let the opponents do their usual 2-stop nonsense.

It's a cheap method though.

I also used this method. Be careful to not let Bob slack off. When the leaders passed him, he stayed within 5 seconds for 2 laps. Good work Bob, great work VTiRoj. 👍
 
What a gigantic pain Sarthe was. I registered to thank Famine for his tip about the TS020 and to outline how I did it with the Toyota...

My best two drivers were (before leveling after the race) a class 32 leaning towards the cool side and a level 26 leaning towards the hot side. I adjusted the top speed to 254 mph, changed the oil, and then reduced the power a few notches to get the PP down to 700. Otherwise no changes.

My starting driver was 26; I wanted to leave the big single stretch in the middle to my class 32 driver. I started with RH tires, and for me the trick seemed to be to pit at the end of lap 2 instead of lap 3 like a majority of the cars wanted to. At that point I went with a set of RIs and put in 32 as the driver.

When I came out of the pits I was in 11th, and for this lap I kept the mood meter pegged red to take full advantage of the grip difference between my car and everybody else's (my RIs versus their RHs). When I came around the next lap I passed all but one car and was in second place. After some battling with the Audi R8 that was in the lead I settled for sticking it out in 2nd place. Every time I passed the Audi he'd come right back and retake the lead.

At the end of the 8th lap my driver and tires were getting tired, so I hit the pits as I had intended to at the beginning of the race and threw on another set of RIs. Again, coming out of the pits I kept the mood meter pegged red because I wanted to make up as much ground as possible while the other cars were at a dead stop in the pits.

This part is critical, DO NOT let your driver pit at the end of the 9th lap for RH tires. He's going to want to, and if you let him you just wasted the entire race.

Thankfully I grabbed 1st place the next time I came around, although not by much. 2nd place was *just* out of slipstream range. After I took the lead I throttled the mood meter down to 75% to avoid an off track excursion and spammed the "maintain" button while watching the time splits. I was making it through each segment a few tenths of a second faster and rode it out for the win.

I don't remember exactly how many seconds I won by, but again, it wasn't by much. 2nd place finished just outside of drafting range.

As for Spa, I've been using my top driver and have won every time I've attempted it. The first time I did it at level 30 in an '08 Calsonic IMPUL GT-R at dead stock settings starting on RI tires.

Thanks for the tips guys. I had to do it the hard way since I don't have a 2J available, but for the record I tried with the 787B, Minolta, and Toyota 7. The ticket got me a Pescarolo Courage-Judd GV5.

This is pretty much how I finally won it but I used the R8 Race Car (Audi PlayStation Team ORECA) '05. I was using the stock setup like others had success with but my drivers levels were kind of low so I experimented with a setup from valeboss94 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=5965917#post5965917 with the exception of the transmission, which i used the "tranny trick" on and made the top speed on the right at 239 and I added 25 kg to the ballast at the zero position. I also used the level 3 turbo and dialed it back using the power limiter. I made sure to change the oil between tries. Every two tries I was also straightening out the chassis because I noticed a drop off that disappeared with the chassis getting tightened. The setup says fully tuned so I did install the chassis rigidity improvement.

My two drivers were both level 31s and became 32s in the process of winning.

I was starting on race hards I was pitting at the end of lap 2 for intermediates and then pitting for intermediates again at the end of lap 7. I got the lead right before the last lap when the rest of the pack was pitting and stayed 7 seconds ahead of the other R8 Audi. The whole time I paid attention to the drivers and kept them at around 75% on the hot/cold meter just out of the red and in the gray.

My previous attempts I would let my drivers get too hot and they'd make mistakes and come in 2nd, twice, which was :ouch: I also wasted attempts when I forgot to change the oil or do chassis maintenance and I wouldn't be able to keep up with the pack. This was usually evident right away after I worked my way up near the faster cars.

Perhaps I can get a 2J with this level 23 ticket because I really need one for the historic race.
 
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I start on racing hards because the track is dry at the start, when he wants to pit for intermediates on about lap 2 or so I keep him out an extra lap then pit for intermediates that will last until the end of the race and I tell him not to stop for dry tyres at the end when the others do and he will usually win, used audi R8 '01
 
Kwicko
Tried the R10 and failed with it - tires quit on the last lap, and I lost nearly a minute (had a 34-second lead at the start of the lap, and lost by 24 seconds, all that time seeming to be lost in the last half of the lap. :( )

But I then tried the '01 Audi R8 (the open-top LeMans racer, not the sport coupe that just came out a couple years ago). Big turbo, 880-some HP, minimal downforce, top speed on gearbox set at 255mph, started on Sports Softs (yes I did), kept 'em on 'til end of L5, swapped for Racing Intermediates, and went on to the end on those. Won it by just over 7 seconds with this.

Others have won with the Peugeot 908 HDI FAP (very few, but at least one person has), the Toyota GT-ONE, and others.

Meanwhile, if anyone needs to borrow a Chappy 2J, just hit me up. "Kwicko" on PSN, and I've got one set to shared status. Or let me know what else you'd like to try it with, and I'll see what I can do.

Going to have to give it a go with the R10 then as it was so close for you. A two stopper worked for me in the Peugeot, first one on lap two then my second one was on lap 6 but only because I was a pit stop ahead by then.

Although the rate of wear might mean lap 6 is actually the optimum time rather than lap 7 that I originally planned. The main thing is just get your Bob in free air.

EDIT: Tried with the R10 and even after I adjusted the acceleration sensitivity in the LSD settings my drivers kept overcooking the tyres too much when coming out of corners and were just far more ragged than they were in the 908. Is this because my drivers have a down arrow at the moment?
 
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really? i did a few laps in the 2J and i was thinking the same so i quit. did you do any mods to the 2j? I did every single upgrade and I only got about 650PP. thats 50 less than the others....how does it work?


You just don't pit and put SS tires on the 2 J.

i have question:
can i win this event with the bugatti???
 
i have question:
can i win this event with the bugatti???

Well it might be faster on the long straights, but you will loose it again in the corners, and i think it will be to hard for the tires, but you should give it a try and let us know how it goes ? :)
 
I found the drafting on the Mulsanne Straight to be the worst for any car, no matter which one. The AI seems to use it better than Bob. If you can get some distance around Indianapolis, Porsche curves, and Ford chicane, if you have the acceleration advantage, you won't have to worry about the slipstream. On inters with the 2J, my Bob was 3-6 seconds faster a lap than the opposition, even while they were drafting each other.
 
Going to have to give it a go with the R10 then as it was so close for you. A two stopper worked for me in the Peugeot, first one on lap two then my second one was on lap 6 but only because I was a pit stop ahead by then.

Although the rate of wear might mean lap 6 is actually the optimum time rather than lap 7 that I originally planned. The main thing is just get your Bob in free air.

EDIT: Tried with the R10 and even after I adjusted the acceleration sensitivity in the LSD settings my drivers kept overcooking the tyres too much when coming out of corners and were just far more ragged than they were in the 908. Is this because my drivers have a down arrow at the moment?


I think it's the massive torque of the R10 (and the 908, too) that cooks the tires, no matter how gentle Bob tries to be with them. I noticed the R10 would light 'em up off the Indy corners pretty regularly.

I had some better luck with the R92 Nissan, even with it's massive horsepower (1028hp in the tune I raced it), just because it's got closer to 750 lb/ft of torque, instead of the 895 or so the R10 cooks up with its truck engine. :)
 
I found the drafting on the Mulsanne Straight to be the worst for any car, no matter which one. The AI seems to use it better than Bob. If you can get some distance around Indianapolis, Porsche curves, and Ford chicane, if you have the acceleration advantage, you won't have to worry about the slipstream. On inters with the 2J, my Bob was 3-6 seconds faster a lap than the opposition, even while they were drafting each other.

Yeah, all my Bobs always want to run outside the slipstream, just off to one side or the other. Or if they DO get in the other car's slipstream, they ride right up on his arse, where they can't even get a good run at passing the other car. Frustrating, it is.
 
Keep your Bob calm at the top of the straight. When he gets a draft tell him to pass and then calm him down again for the bends at the ends. Some Bobs are just better passers than others (oddly, it seems that Remote Race trained Bobs are worse than B-Spec trained Bobs) and my guys have no issues.

I've just scored my fourth win in two different cars and pretty much confirmed that if the BMW V12 isn't there, you can cruise with the leaders half the race but if he is you lose so much time fighting him that you have to have a massively fast car (Audi R8) to win it. So now I'm off to experiment with some odder cars - and maybe try for that CLK-LM win :D
 
so after reading threads. i still didn't figure what the best setup is?
So what car do you use, what tyres and stops? and max speed? on the spa?
 
JimmyJvD
so after reading threads. i still didn't figure what the best setup is?
So what car do you use, what tyres and stops? and max speed? on the spa?

I think it comes down to what level your Bobs are and how well trained they are. My guys weren't trained well until I did the same pit strategy with them for a few races. However, it seems many racers are pitting at the end of the second and seventh laps.
 
Chaparral 2J, Sports Soft, no stops will win it.
Audi R8 '05, Racing Hards, stop on lap 2 for Inters and run to the end will probably win it.

Anything else and you're looking for either level 40 Bobs to race for you or for a grid without the BMW V12 LMR amongst the AI.
 
Famine
(oddly, it seems that Remote Race trained Bobs are worse than B-Spec trained Bobs)

Is that up to the fact that B-Spec drivers don't gain Career points in Remote Races?

Also, I actually managed to lose the race in a 2J on SS - using a Level 35 and using the same method I used to win before, ie mashing increase pace non-stop. Next race with another Level 35, and he trumps the opposition. However, I have noticed something...

Lineups with a Peugeot 905 are much better for your chances. The 905 starts first no matter what when it shows it, but it rather a lot slower than most of the AI, resulting in much hold-up for them. I wanna say this is a valid reason I could make it to 4th before the AI pitted in my second try and I never saw an AI after that. I think I might have tried the CLK-LM there and almost won there...
 
Won the Spa again with a Castrol Tom's Supra '97 with racing hard, but this time with a Lvl 36 Bob instead of a 40. I think it helps with a blue/up confidence arrow for the driver. Had to fight it out the last couple laps as the car that pitted overtook me in lap 9, but I managed to regain the lead at the start of lap 10 and won by a half second. Didn't pit at all.
 
I think it comes down to what level your Bobs are and how well trained they are. My guys weren't trained well until I did the same pit strategy with them for a few races. However, it seems many racers are pitting at the end of the second and seventh laps.


I'm becoming convinced that our Bobs' basic attitude has more to do with this than most people think. For instance, a "hot" Bob (one whose basic personality leans more to the "hot" side of the meter) tends to perform better under pressure, while a "cool" Bob tends to perform better the calmer you get him. I ran a Cold Bob last night, and if he got anything over the center line on the hot/cool meter, he'd start making idiotic mistakes (he's Level 37, never remote raced, all "hand-trained"). If I kept him in the cooler end of the meter, he'd actually go faster on the straights - were talking a difference of 228mph on the Mulsanne straight when cool, versus a top speed in the same area of 218mph when he was angry. A hot bob would do just the opposite in the same situation - faster when hot, slower when calm.

Seems this event is teaching many of us quite a bit about our Bobs, eh?
 
I'm becoming convinced that our Bobs' basic attitude has more to do with this than most people think. For instance, a "hot" Bob (one whose basic personality leans more to the "hot" side of the meter) tends to perform better under pressure, while a "cool" Bob tends to perform better the calmer you get him. I ran a Cold Bob last night, and if he got anything over the center line on the hot/cool meter, he'd start making idiotic mistakes (he's Level 37, never remote raced, all "hand-trained"). If I kept him in the cooler end of the meter, he'd actually go faster on the straights - were talking a difference of 228mph on the Mulsanne straight when cool, versus a top speed in the same area of 218mph when he was angry. A hot bob would do just the opposite in the same situation - faster when hot, slower when calm.

Seems this event is teaching many of us quite a bit about our Bobs, eh?

Yes, I think you're right. I was using one "cold" Bob and one "hot" Bob and I found that it was best to start and finish with the cold Bob because the hot Bob would mess up the first turns on the new intermediates at the beginning of lap 8 and need to get calmed down. Whereas the cold Bob would raise his bar a little and I could make him maintain at around 75% to cruise to victory. As I play around with it and make more money off the event I will try other combinations of Bob's to see what strategies are best.

I believe the car lineup is also key like someone said which is why when I got to 2nd place the first time I held in there to race it a couple more times to try and eke out a 1st place finish.
 
I believe the car lineup is also key like someone said which is why when I got to 2nd place the first time I held in there to race it a couple more times to try and eke out a 1st place finish.


Definitely. I've won in lineups with the BMW V12, but it's much easier if you don't have to. As also noted by others, any lineup that has the Peugeot 905 on the pole tends to be an easier lineup to beat, since he'll hold up the lead pack for a bit, allowing you time to work through traffic before the lead group can run too far ahead.
 
glad I'm not the only one with this problem, doesn't matter what car, what tyres, what Bob, he just can't race properly, got into 1st place on lap 9, great I thought, then at the last bit of a long straight on lap 10, he ******g brakes!! no reason, he just felt like it, letting number 2 car pass and lose the race, almost had a controller shaped hole in the TV. WTF ?!

Almost happen to me. It is like sure win situation until the last few corner. Thanks to you I remember what you said, so in the last corner I push my bob. He almost lost and win the race 0.5 sec ahead.
 
Stop him from running on worn tyres or too much in the red on his mood bar then.

I'm running a Lv38 Bob in a 691PP CLK-LM (820hp or so, 1000kg, 246mph on the gearbox). I've found that if I start him on Racing Hard tyres and give him three laps on those, he can make a good fist of the third (sacrificial) lap and then do 7 full laps on the Inters. He loses a bit of lap time to the leaders on laps 6 and 7 for that set, but they all pit at lap 9 (6th lap on the Inters)...

The trick is to get him absolutely raging at the start and up close to the BMW V12 LMR, then bring his mood back down to just over the centre. If you can get ahead of the BMW before you both stop on lap 3, good. If not it's of no consequence. Then just coast him round seven laps with his mood just over centre. He'll keep the tyres good while the track dries, then gain 50s on the lead pack as they all pit.

This strategy worked really well for me. Up until just now, I couldn't muster anything better than 4th in my R8 '01 with my two drivers (Lv. 26, Lv. 28). But after taking extra care to babysit my Bobs (no more than 70% in the red, if 0% = all the way in the blue), I was able to get into the lead at the end of lap 9 and held onto it entering the final two S-curves before the finish...

...until my Bob realized he can't drive on completely worn out rear tires and slowed down to 30 mph coming up to the line, easily allowing the AI R8 to sail ahead for the win. :grumpy:

Ah well, at least now I know what to do. Maybe next time I'll pace them even slower in an effort to save that little bit of tire needed. Thanks for the advice!
 
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I won with the R92CP today. I don't think anyone else has accomplished that.... yet


Nevermind, i found some people that won with it as well
 
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