I took the hubcaps off right after I made that post, they look nice on my wall with my 4 13" Plymouth hubcaps
. I'll definately put them back on for shows though, the rims look naked without them.
I went on the early Valiant and Barracuda forum I know of and they were able to help me out a good bit. They said the available rear ends for my car were the 7 1/4, 8 1/4, or 8 3/4. I most likely have the 7 1/4 as bordin said so they said my best bet was to switch to the 8 3/4 (which is both expensive and hard to find), or find a Ford 8" rear end from a 64-66 Mustang or Falcon. I'd preferably like to stay Mopar so if it comes down to it I'll dish out the money for the 8 3/4.
They also said "I would not be too concerned with using the lead substitute unless you know for sure that the engine has never had hardened valve seats put in it. I would imagine that by now that engine has had a rebuild and most of the time they upgrade the valve seats when rebuilding the heads." It was rebuilt by the second owner so I think I'm fine, but if I ever raise the compression I think I'll want to put it in just in case. I think you can get lead substitute at any auto place, if not they sell it online.
He also suggested that "Any of the Edelbrock manifold & square bore carbs are fine for a small block Mopar. If and when you get to that point I would go with the complete package that Edelbrock offers in there performance package. It has a cam, manifold, & carb package that matches the 273 commando set up." Sounds like a sweet deal to me, but that probably wont be happening for a while.
One of my biggest problems is prioritizing what needs to be done on the car. The right rear corner panel is the biggest issue I have because it needs new metal and the chrome strip needs to be moved. There's a restoration shop outside of town that I know could do a good job, but if I'm going to get it fixed I'm going to want to get the whole thing done at one time. Surface rust can be found in various place, especially the rear end (thanks maaco
), so it really needs a good sanding, bondo (new metal preferred), and a good primer and paint job. I'm going to try and get a quote from them sometime, but it's still going to require a good bit of money which is another problem. I could save up for that but I also need to replace all the gaskets and rubber seals, rear window mechanisms, and definitely the windshield. (It's getting worse, my hope is that something cracks it. Bad thought I know but I can't even dish out $5 let alone $350)