Project CARS 2 General Discussion Thread - Out Now on PS4/XB1/PC

[CTznOfTime]

Yes ok, but is the base Monza available to play with on PS4 eventually once I get the skills to handle it...

Oh Ok !! Thank you @Mr Grumpy
That look like two different versions of the Monza track, the new and the old respectively.

It looks quite underwhelming because you make it look easy, but I have a feeling it is quite intense.

But my question was in regards to the car Ferrari Monza lol.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Oh Ok !! Thank you @Mr Grumpy
That look like two different versions of the Monza track, the new and the old respectively.

It looks quite underwhelming because you make it look easy, but I have a feeling it is quite intense.

But my question was in regards to the car Ferrari Monza lol.

You can find the full car list here
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/project-cars-2-car-list.353681/

And the track list here
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/project-cars-2-track-list.353682/

It also gives you the information regarding what is included within the given dlc.

 

[IfAndOr]

But my question was in regards to the car Ferrari Monza lol.

In that case no. Unfortunately.

but I have a feeling it is quite intense.

The banking on the old oval are very high! Don't look down.

Knowing what cars & tracks are added on as a bonus is going to have a large say on if the extra money to download the deluxe edition is worth it.

Here's a link to the individual items but overall this is what you get extra.

For the extra few £$€ it's well worth it.

There's also an extra Japanese cars pack I don't think is included. It doesn't cost much.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi everyone,

My apologies if I have missed these discussions elsewhere, but I have some regarding the game. Specifically, the bonus content in the Deluxe Edition, before I purchase it on sale from the PlayStation Store. Yes, I am aware it's "only fourteen dollars," but with everything going on in the world I need to be extremely frugal with the money I spend on luxuries.

I already own the base game via. disc, I bought it when the game was first released. What exactly will I be getting with the deluxe edition? Knowing what cars & tracks are added on as a bonus is going to have a large say on if the extra money to download the deluxe edition is worth it.

Additionally, how has the game held up with regards to being both feasible and enjoyable on a controller? When I first bought the game I could get around the track fine on certain car & track combinations, but I would be quite off the pace and find myself too focused on not spinning the car to really pay attention to mid-corner roll speeds, etc. I am someone who is interested in competitive league racing so as you can imagine, being helplessly slow is not something I particularly care for.

Thank you.

I've noticed the the season pass is also on sale for you ps4 users aswell (actually more expensive than the deluxe edition lol)

I'd say buy the deluxe edition (digital) & sell your hard copy. That's what I did.

I suggest looking at the individual packs for information about the track/cars you get, but it's definitely worth it just for the Le-Mans pack alone imo


Note 1, if you buy the deluxe edition or the season pass you get a bonus motorsports pack included (not available if you buy dlc separately)

(Project CARS 2 Season Pass/deluxe edition owners will receive a spectacular bonus pack containing 4 enthralling racing cars curated from 40 years of motoring history:
- The 1974 E-Type V12, Group 44—beauty, speed, and an absolute motoring icon.
- The Panoz Esperante GTR-1—a ’90s GT stalwart.
- Audi's 1991 V8 DTM—a DTM legend with 460hp @ 9,500RPM
- Opel's latest, 2016’s Astra TCR—a 300hp Touring Car monster).





Note 2, the Japanese car pack is not included in the deluxe edition or season pass, you have to buy this separately if you wish, however it has been on sale before at £1.99 instead of £3.99.

 

[Morgoth_666]

So I tried a 30 hour race today, because a 4.8 hour race sometimes is just a little too short for a really major-feeling 24 hours race. The race was quite fun enough(other than the scumbag class-leading bot who I passed clean with 3 laps left then he rammed me into the wall straight from behind -- and again right after, causing significant damage -- then I caught back up to him and passed him with 2 laps to go and he straight up sideswiped me on Dottinger-Hõhe this time rendering me uncompetitive and 3rd - well, 2nd since I consider him disqualified... but I won't mention him), but the night-time really was just too short and quite obvious that I wasn't really doing 24 hours.

It really is too bad, as the atmosphere in long races is so nice. But 12 hours is a really long time to do in one day even for someone as crazy as me. Add in the fact that apparently Bob really is just broken and refuses attempt to pass anybody in our class and it's even more of a problem. He was following a fast car this time, and it was much faster than us on the straights so it wasn't obvious or that damaging... but when you've spent a while watching him and the other bots you can tell when he's not even thinking about going around. Bob still helps as you can do it in basically real-time, but if you happen to be watching him stuck behind a slow car that he just will not pass it's a bit infuriating and can cost you a ton of time.

 

[MrCrynox]

After playing PC2 for the last week in a variety of cars and track combinations I've decided it's simply incredible, perfect even. I used to love playing Forza, finished 6, I had 7 lined up, barely started but after having a go last night for an hour I can't bring myself to play it anymore, PC has spoilt it, it now seems so basic & bland. It reminds me of the time years ago loving the Colin McRae Rally games, then playing RBR, pulling my hair out at first thinking why's this so hard, then going back to CMR, nope it's completely easy & boring in comparison.
I've felt so much joy just driving laps around Oulton Park on my own in the BMW2002, the feelings this game provides, great game.
I'm going to play the heck out of this whilst eagerly waiting for PC3 next gen, let's hope CM gets minimal input, apart from maybe the sound..

Edit: Not that there anything wrong with the sound it's just CM & sound, you know..

 

[Morgoth_666]

I'm doing career Group C with the 962 and the regional series was good enough, the non-LM cars a bit better on the twisty tracks and the LM cars a bit better at Monza and Le Mans. But the world championship included one team running the Nissan ZX-Turbo which is a bit like if the WEC decided to allow an IndyCar to compete next season just for kicks. I know, I know, drop the difficulty and it's like the good old days of Gran Turismo with one legit car who is faster than you on the straights and a bunch of clowns that are just there to crash into... but the good old days of having to do multiple races like that sucked.

I'm dealing with it, it's fine, but it still sucks. Even if we have a good race the whole field is 30 seconds behind us and they'll all be irrelevant all year. I was going to ask if anybody knew of a possible way to fix it in the future, but I'm sure it picks the field before it saves when you sign the contract so there's no way to see problems like that before it's set in stone.

 

[Morgoth_666]

I'm not sure why I can't find any mention of this online or if somehow it's only ever happened to me, but now I'm at Sakitto and there is a repeating and critical bug in the pits where some of the bots get stuck and the game won't let them rejoin the track - and once I come in I won't ever be able to drive away either.

I know this does sometimes happen when you try to leave the garage when a bot is pitting nearby... it won't let him leave because you are coming and it won't release you while he's there. But returning to the garage menu will let him go(even if you are already sitting in the garage). It's basically the same annoying thing that happens if you park behind a guy on your pit marks(even though there are always plenty of pit stalls for everybody to not have to share, but that's another whinge) and wait for him instead of driving through him - he can't go until you stop in your pit and are considered to not be driving in the lane anymore.

But in multiple attempts the same thing has happened and it doesn't seem to actually be me that is causing it like I thought it was the first time, because when I restarted they were already stuck when I came in. Some of them can go, it seems to be a particular area that is waiting for one that can't ever drive away. I quit tp reload the track and to re-shuffle the pit assignments and thought it might be working as it was clear after my first 10 laps, but when I came back in later in the session they were stuck, and then so was I. Returning to the garage doesn't help.

It ruins practice, and if it happens in the race somebody's gonna have a bad time - it better not be me because I need the points... might have to put them on zero and cruise so my fuel lasts lol. At least I seem to need some extra practice since I keep having to redo it.

 

[BoneSawTX]

I'm doing career Group C with the 962 and the regional series was good enough, the non-LM cars a bit better on the twisty tracks and the LM cars a bit better at Monza and Le Mans. But the world championship included one team running the Nissan ZX-Turbo which is a bit like if the WEC decided to allow an IndyCar to compete next season just for kicks. I know, I know, drop the difficulty and it's like the good old days of Gran Turismo with one legit car who is faster than you on the straights and a bunch of clowns that are just there to crash into... but the good old days of having to do multiple races like that sucked.

I'm dealing with it, it's fine, but it still sucks. Even if we have a good race the whole field is 30 seconds behind us and they'll all be irrelevant all year. I was going to ask if anybody knew of a possible way to fix it in the future, but I'm sure it picks the field before it saves when you sign the contract so there's no way to see problems like that before it's set in stone.

I literally was looking for the same answer last week, I picked up PC2 on Xbox free. Seems that Nissan should be in a GTP class, Group C for all its glory was more inline with fuel economy and IMSA went full bore with the GTP class. While they had some cross over there were some differences and these two ZX-Turbos skipped the Daytona 24 and Sebring knowing where there strength was, sprints.

 

[Morgoth_666]

I literally was looking for the same answer last week, I picked up PC2 on Xbox free. Seems that Nissan should be in a GTP class, Group C for all its glory was more inline with fuel economy and IMSA went full bore with the GTP class. While they had some cross over there were some differences and these two ZX-Turbos skipped the Daytona 24 and Sebring knowing where there strength was, sprints.

Yeah those cars made for a rather annoying season, particularly at Sakitto(they're crazy fast in some turns) for me. But apparently it can't be helped, there's a lot to love about PC2 yet unfortunately there's also a lot of things you just have to put up with. There's a few classes(ignoring the road and trackday classes) that have problems like that.



Just a note on my problem at the Sakitto pits... it seems that I could pit and drive away when they were stuck, I just couldn't go to the garage and return. That should make it work during a race at least. Of course I always return to the garage when I pit in practice to tweak things or just reset the condition of the car.



EDIT the next day because probably not worth its own post: Having finished my Group C run(Long Beach was so much fun it almost made the rest of the season worth it)... the 962 has moved into 2nd on my "favorites" list at 1Day 4 Hours 48 Minutes. That's 6 minutes more than the G40 Junior, which I remember seeing a day or two ago was only 4 or 5 minutes ahead of the Formula C. Hows that for parity? Of course the Ginetta GT4 is at almost twice that after a Ring enduro and much practice for it.

 

[Jtheripper]

After playing PC2 for the last week in a variety of cars and track combinations I've decided it's simply incredible, perfect even. I used to love playing Forza, finished 6, I had 7 lined up, barely started but after having a go last night for an hour I can't bring myself to play it anymore, PC has spoilt it, it now seems so basic & bland. It reminds me of the time years ago loving the Colin McRae Rally games, then playing RBR, pulling my hair out at first thinking why's this so hard, then going back to CMR, nope it's completely easy & boring in comparison.
I've felt so much joy just driving laps around Oulton Park on my own in the BMW2002, the feelings this game provides, great game.
I'm going to play the heck out of this whilst eagerly waiting for PC3 next gen, let's hope CM gets minimal input, apart from maybe the sound..

Edit: Not that there anything wrong with the sound it's just CM & sound, you know..

Well to be honest the engine sound is abysmal in many cars, takes me out of it. Ferraris, most high pitched engines, the rally Quattro... And in replays. Some are ok, some are good. Of course games like forza and gts are boring as heck in comparison, not even worth the storage space.

It's a great sim style game but far from perfect.

 

[MrCrynox]

Well to be honest the engine sound is abysmal in many cars, takes me out of it. Ferraris, most high pitched engines, the rally Quattro... And in replays. Some are ok, some are good. Of course games like forza and gts are boring as heck in comparison, not even worth the storage space.

It's a great sim style game but far from perfect.

Yes, hence the CM sound comment, it's not that they are bad but you just know CM can help improve in this area. PC3 has a lot of potential

 

[Scaff]

Yeah except some of the historic tires they did add are strange to say the least. Like i posted earlier the historic tires on the 98t are strange, with lots of spinning when turbo kicks in but no oversteer at all, even seems to keep the car straight. Where as the regular slicks spin as much but do normal power oversteer. Unless i don't get something about the historic tires..i dont know.
Try it and tell me maybe.

That's cross-ply vs radials for you.

 

[CTznOfTime]

Ferrari Monza v1.01

https://www.mediafire.com/file/mdfp8uxoouru66e/Ferrari_Monza_pack_v1.01.7z/file Fixed non glowing gauges for stock liveries Configurator tutorial, by @TheRealSlawek. In French, but easy to translate https://www.madnessgarage.fr/post/le-configurateur-ferrari-monza

Check out that configurator. Now that's cool. It's like being at the Ferrari dealer and picking out your trim options.

Having the PS4 Pro, I can't enjoy this car but from this video, it's looks and sounds so good !


Project CARS 2 - Ferrari Monza SP1 at Imola Gamep…:

 

[Sick Cylinder]

Having the PS4 Pro, I can't enjoy this car but from this video, it's looks and sounds so good ! Project CARS 2 - Ferrari Monza SP1.

I would rather have an original Ferrari Monza and it would flesh out the GTC class nicely! It would add an interesting 4 cylinder soundtrack to the game as well. Probably need to add the 3.5 litre 860 for it to be competitive with the other cars - this is a 3 litre 750 model - one of the most beautiful Ferrari's ever, hence the modern interpretation (although it wasn't particularly successful in competition).

 

[Jtheripper]

Oups thought i clicked reply to your post @MrCrynox oh well..Since we both like rally alot, you could try the Ford sierra cosworth rs500 in group A rear wheel drive, on a bumpy track like long beach it's pretty fun. The rear wants to spin in the 3 1st gears on little bumps.
Need adjust setups on those cars, like the group B rs200, and escort rx too, to be reasonnably believable/drivable though. The sound isn't the best though, again, but ok.
One old rally style car that feels good right away is the renault 5 turbo, fun little car.

Many cars i love though in this.
Mclarens, some of the Porsches, aston martins, old race cars,...

@Scaff i wonder though what would make such a difference with those 2 tires. The cross ply have more rigid side walls making them less pliable and easier to break traction on bumps and in changing direction, and lose traction more gradually maybe but harder to get back grip i think.
But it doesn't seem to explain why 1 would keep the car straight when spinning like crazy in the back and the other makes the car so easier to oversteer when spinning the same way on power in a straight or almost straight line.
They both spin like a dragster when the turbo kicks in so they both lost traction.

Maybe the cross ply inflates more from overheating due to having an air tube inside and less rigid contact patch which then becomes rounder underneat and lessens the contact area and that would explain the lesser grip but they both already spinning like crazy idk.

It's like one has locked differential and one not. Also its the historic tire that holds a straight line more, i would think historic is the crossply and slick is the radial no? Cheers..

 

[Scaff]

Oups thought i clicked reply to your post @MrCrynox oh well..Since we both like rally alot, you could try the Ford sierra cosworth rs500 in group A rear wheel drive, on a bumpy track like long beach it's pretty fun. The rear wants to spin in the 3 1st gears on little bumps.
Need adjust setups on those cars, like the group B rs200, and escort rx too, to be reasonnably believable/drivable though. The sound isn't the best though, again, but ok.

Many cars i love though in this.
Mclarens, some of the Porsches, aston martins, old race cars,...

@Scaff i wonder though what would make such a difference with those 2 tires. The cross ply have more rigid side walls making them less pliable and easier to break traction on bumps and in changing direction, and lose traction more gradually maybe but harder to get back grip i think.
But it doesn't seem to explain why 1 would keep the car straight when spinning like crazy in the back and the other makes the car so easier to oversteer when spinning the same way on power in a straight or almost straight line.
They both spin like a dragster when the turbo kicks in so they both lost traction.

Maybe the cross-ply inflates more from overheating due to having an air tube inside and less rigid contact patch which then becomes rounder underneat and lessens the contact area and that would explain the lesser grip but they both already spinning like crazy idk.

It's like one has locked differential and one not. Also its the historic tire that holds a straight line more, i would think historic is the crossply and slick is the radial no? Cheers..

Cross-plys will overheat a lot more than radials (and wear a lot quicker as well), as the contact patch will deform a lot more than radials will (the steel belts in a radial resist contact patch deformation quite a bit more), that's why you tend to see a lot more crazy four-wheel drifts on vintage cars that would have run on cross-ply, the advantage with that is the build-up to the loss of grip is more gradual, but the change when it goes more abrupt.

Cross-plys very rigid sidewalls also give an advantage in a straight-line as they will follow the road far more than radials, the closest way to feel that in this day and age on the road is with run-flat tyres, particularly low-profile ones (my old 3 series had these and would tramline like mad (as they also have a very rigid sideways despite being radials..

 

[Jtheripper]

I wonder why some cars like the old renault 5 turbo i can feel the weight really well right away on my g29, even though i set the ffb light and more focused on detail, while others even heavier or front engined feel too light.
The r5 i feel like im in a real car with some weight, and regains traction in a believable way and gives confidence on the handling, many others not, and the skidding feels like on cold wet or ice often.
Maybe it's the tire choice again.

 

[Beezer215]

Try raising the caster on cars that have light wheel feel.

 

[MrCrynox]

Oups thought i clicked reply to your post @MrCrynox oh well..Since we both like rally alot, you could try the Ford sierra cosworth rs500 in group A rear wheel drive, on a bumpy track like long beach it's pretty fun. The rear wants to spin in the 3 1st gears on little bumps.
Need adjust setups on those cars, like the group B rs200, and escort rx too, to be reasonnably believable/drivable though. The sound isn't the best though, again, but ok.
One old rally style car that feels good right away is the renault 5 turbo, fun little car.

Many cars i love though in this.
Mclarens, some of the Porsches, aston martins, old race cars,...

Yes I`ve tried the RS500, after playing the Group A Championship driving the M3 I was curious to see how they always managed to power out of the corners & fly down the straights so fast.. That turbo boost, wow its so addictive. Cant control it enough to win but its ace. I love trying all the Turbo cars in PC2, unlike other games you can really feel it kick in, awesome feeling. Sadly I havent touched the game for about a week, been playing Grid Autosport & back on WRC8 Too many good games !

 

[Jtheripper]

Try raising the caster on cars that have light wheel feel.

Tks beezer, it makes it heavier, not sure yet if feels so much better though, it's not like the r5 that feels right, still.

Still need tinker with all that though and try different cars too.
I should really take more time to read the info in the setup for each thing.
And have the patience to tinker with all that more. It's a fun minigame in itself, kinda like a puzzle game.
Plus you learn something often, on each car and their layout design, and on the setups or physics of road behavior etc.

Did fix to my liking a few cars more now, having fun with the rally type cars on long beach.
The rs500, lot of fun, the Quattro, fun to see it in replays with the near default setup which is more for rally with it's soft suspension and high stance, reminds me of old videos of that car in rallies, looks just the same with the front going up on acceleration. Pretty good simulation of it.

Much faster of course once you set it for road racing more.

Also the track is fun really, and the lighting is cool when the sun sets with all the shadows, and when darkness sets in and the surrounding lights come on.
Just too bad on std ps4 it gets a little messy.

Edit: @MrCrynox did try the m3 now, on long beach again, really good, you feel the road really well in it, and well balanced car, great feel on the g29, cockpit sound good too, love it.

Edit2: @Beezer215 did notice the cars that i feel more the weight of it do have default caster pretty higher than others, and range of it is higher too. The r5 turbo is really high, i even lowered it a little. Tks again.
The r5 is fun too and fun cockpit sound.

Some have a lower and limited caster setup range and can't put it much higher. Still helps quite a bit..
------
So good feel often, and great overall features, just wish they updated some engine sounds, like the rally Quattro, eww, i don't know.
Did try the Merc190, another jewel, good sound too even in replay.

 

[Beezer215]

A lot of stuff happened in case anyone may have missed some cars, I'll put them here.

RUF CTR3 SMSR
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nobivy4fo5t8ukh/Ruf_CTR3_SMSR .rar?dl=0

RUF RGT8
https://www.dropbox.com/s/aqukioxplm2emal/Ruf_RGT8.rar?dl=0

Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione GT3
https://www.dropbox.com/s/re6z2q9millob2z/Alfa_Romeo_8C_GT3.rar?dl=0

KAOS CTR3 v2
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y9uelf5k0epn8vi/KAOS_CTR3_v2.rar?dl=0

Last but not least. At all.

Koenigsegg Jesko
http://www.mediafire.com/file/eq6y6rr9nsatsna/Koenigsegg_Jesko.7z/file
Supposedly the fastest car in the game now. I don't care much about stuff like that though. Haven't tried it yet.

 

[Bloodytears]

Wanted to put it in another thread on GT section, but decided it is not worth it there. In my opinion Project Cars is very rewarding game. It gives you like every prize from the start, but what you have to accomplish with those is just a beauty of the game. The real reward it not a thing, but a wonderful and memorable time you can spend with it.

And damn, even exiting from pits sometimes a challenge worthy.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Someone explain to me how the ffb graph can still go into red clipping zone even though I purposely set the gain to 0 as part of a no ffb challenge.

Just so we're clear the wheel is technically dead (I don't mean not working) I mean as light as a feather, no resistance at all, even weaker than a rubber band wheel, DEAD.

So why is it that the game still thinks there's clipping going on? & I mean 50% of the red.
Surely this whole graph should be as flat as a pancake.

It's almost like the game is registering what ffb it's giving me & not registering what settings my wheel is set to or can handle.

I'm starting to think this ffb graph on console isn't 100% accurate.

As a test turn up your tone, volume & fx to 100% but kill off your gain to 0, have a drive like you normally would & watch the graph go bandy even though your wheel will feel like a toy.

 

[Beezer215]

Because the game is clipping. The game never sensed when your or mine or anybodies wheel was actually past its own ability, It's sending a mix of information that is reliant on it's settings alone. It's like when I'm setting the AI for a mod car I'm making in Assetto Corsa, I give the controls to the AI so I can monitor it's behavior, it driving the car can still send the feedback into red by it's movements even though my wheel is doing absolutely nothing.

This is why on PC, you set your wheel gain in the background (outside of game) for total gain and then in game you set the gain to be used. They combine.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

So it's pretty much useless then, I understood that if we got clipping we should lower the gain, but what's the point in utilising it if adjusting our wheel strength does nothing to combat it.

I don't remember this being like this.

 

[Beezer215]

I do studio recording. In my DAW where we mix music, I can turn up the tracks so that they are clipping and sound horrible when they hit the master. I then can turn the master down so you can barely hear anything out of the monitors or headphones. The speakers are fine but the signal was already ruined before it got there.
Not useless. When the audio tracks hit the master, there were no dynamics because they all clipped over 0db. All garble. If we turn the tracks down and turn the master up, now we can hear quiet passages and where they get louder, they have room to get louder.
PC2 is the premixer of FFB, make sure any of the different feelings aren't clipping. I have a T300rs and I can plug it into a computer and set the wheel, then put it on my PS4 and retain those settings. Obviously while on PC the whole time I can move back and forth. I have my wheel at 90 or 95% Gain in wheel settings and somewhere around 60 - 80% gain in game settings. As long as my in game doesn't clip I'm good and shouldn't fry my wheel.
Sorry for the analogy but it's the easiest way I can describe.

 

[Morgoth_666]

Lowering the volume(and probably the FX) will lessen the clipping on the graph. Probably suggests that the volume/tone/fx control the the actual forces created(the "shape" of the effects) and the gain is an overall limiter it puts on top of that for the final output to the wheel?

Sounds good in the 5 seconds it took to come up with it at least. 💡

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I understand the concept of it, but what I'm saying is why does it say in the description of gain "that it can be reduced to avoid clipping, but it does not reflect that in the graph?

I understood that no settings on the PC Thrustmaster control panel effect the wheel when using on console, hence console users are free to reduce this.

If I go into the control panel on the PC & reduce everything to 0% this won't have no effect on console.

FX doesn't seem to effect my clipping that much even at 100 (although I only use 0-25), I'd say volume is the biggest culprit followed by tone (especially when you set both to high together).

I also keep an eye on the white horizontal signal bar which fluctuates at the bottom & set volume & tone so it only gets to about 75%

From what I read of that with high volume through a corner this can hit 100% then start the clipping bar to rise, so I adjust this accordingly to avoid.

With tone (I've never clipped below 50) I've noticed that the signal bar is more active when you use more aligning torque ie: start going above 50 when counter steering. Again I keep an eye on this & reduce accordingly to avoid clipping.

Like I said I understand it but just a little confused as to why we don't get a visual guide on the gain setting like we do on the other 3, we have to go by feel instead (which of course you can if you know what you're looking for regarding loss of signal)

Thrustmaster TX, latest firmware, default control panel settings, XB1X.

 

[phillgt2002]

This game and DIRT have completely ruined racing games for me. The amount of detail that went into just the vehicles and environment is amazing.

I can’t wait to see PC3 and the other sim games.