Project CARS 3: General Discussion Thread - Out August 28th, 2020 on XB1/PS4/PC

  • Thread starter jake2013guy
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For the brake locking "problem" - my tip for the day. :)

Try lowering the brake sensitivity in the wheel options menu. It makes it less sensitive to initial brake input and so can help with preventing lockups under light braking. They will will still lock for heavy braking. Originally I dropped mine down considerably, but now I'm getting used to PC3 it has kept back up slightly.

I should add it'll probably take a few laps for your mind to adjust to the changed input curve.
 
Scaff
Hey, if you enjoy it, then that's the main thing. It's simply for me PC3 doesn't recreate those feelings.
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Yes your right...... Enjoyment and what you personally get out of the the Sim experience..... is what it's all about....

And I do appreciate that replicating all the driving sensations of real life driving is virtually impossible...

From what I've seen even when you are talking about the best most sophisticated driving rigs... with all the bells and whistles with hydraulic motion Etc.

Its still not going to bring into play all the senses you use..... when driving for real.......

But as you can tell PC 3 gets close enough to my expectations .... for me to be a real happy bunny....
 
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barry chipman
In the end I thought F7 was far to complicated to set up especially for the Wheel adjustments which had regular updates.. driving everybody mad ..

I am really pleased that first time people coming to Sim Racing have now got a viable option that they can just plug in and play.......brilliant..
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Plug and play is great, and all the people I regularly race with say Forza's a bit of a pain to get dialled in on a wheel.

Forza's still a great series but at least in its current guide I consider it a "pad game" and enjoy it when on a controller.
 
PJTierney
Plug and play is great, and all the people I regularly race with say Forza's a bit of a pain to get dialled in on a wheel.

Forza's still a great series but at least in its current guide I consider it a "pad game" and enjoy it when on a controller.
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From my observation Motorsport is the best pad game from normal games. It has great physics which is very accessible from a pad (no many helpers). Vibrations could be a bit better but after PC1/2 you should like it because it's very similar. It's the same for Horizon, same physics and steering (a bit more helpers). Sometimes I think both series are a bit underrated for pad experience. GT is not a competition at all.

Wheels are another story.
 
PJTierney
Plug and play is great, and all the people I regularly race with say Forza's a bit of a pain to get dialled in on a wheel.

Forza's still a great series but at least in its current guide I consider it a "pad game" and enjoy it when on a controller.
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I admire your versatility & I find it very interesting that you still like playing F7 ....and you can also still enjoy "driving" with a pad.....

As I have said in previous posts for me PC3 has completely taken over my interest / Sim game playing ...

I actually dislike F7 now ... some of the reasons I have listed below....

The weather is invariably dull and uninspiring ...
The circuits vary visually in their quality ...
The lighting of the circuits is also very lack luster....... compared to the "spot on" vibrant consistency & colours of PC3....
There is no Engineer feed back.... which for me makes everything feel dead and lifeless....
I much prefer the " floating" three point cornering index system of PC3....which I find really intuitive..(you do not need cornering aids of course).
There is no real time weather progression......with the track gradually drying out... for instance..
For me PC 3 wins hands down when it comes to night time driving .....for its clarity and lighting...
There is no feeling of up & down gradients when "driving"....

All just my point of view of course.... for what it's worth......
 
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barry chipman
I admire your versatility & I find it very interesting that you still like playing F7 ....and you can also still enjoy "driving" with a pad.....
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I was a pad player for 20 years before I moved to wheel. Heck in DiRT Rally 2.0 I'm still near my wheel times with a pad :D

As for Project CARS 3, you might like my little Xbox community, we race every Monday; sometimes good cars, sometimes memes.
 
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PJTierney
I was a pad player for 20 years before I moved to wheel. Heck in DiRT Rally 2.0 I'm still near my wheel times with a pad :D

As for Project CARS 3, you might like my little Xbox community, we race every Monday; sometimes good cars, sometimes memes.
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I forgot to mention that that I am very impressed with your You Tube channel.....
I think your no nonsense presentation style is excellent..
I have just been checking out your "Driving In Rain" video ........Brilliant....
I like to start my races with a Damp track ...so hopefully my control will improve...
If I can ..with practice.. employ some of the things you advocate...
Thanks for the invite to your Monday night community...
 
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IfAndOr
Actually dead zones for the controller can be adjusted under the wheel options tab. Many of the settings in there have an effect. Including calibration.
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Doesn't change a thing, if you think it does then that's a placebo

Edit: I can turn it to 0 and still there is the same amount of deadzone if I have it on 50, I can calibrate the steering, Left never hits 100 for some reason and whenever I drive I get a slight pull to the left no matter how many times I calibrate the steering, even if I switch out the controller. Don't have this issue with PC2 and other games
 
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AlexWilmot
Edit: I can turn it to 0 and still there is the same amount of deadzone if I have it on 50
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If I do the same I can see the wheels don't turn with initial input. Try setting it to full, 75, and watch the wheels while turning at rest in a external camera.

At zero using the same method as above there is no dead zone at rest or at slow speed. The "dead zone" only occurs due to a speed sensitivity setting that cuts in as you speed up, it smooths the stick inputs. Without it the cars would probably become too twitchy.

The majority of settings in the wheel section have an affect. Try turning all the dead zones to 75 if you want to experience a true deadzones.

I have my deadzone at 4 to prevent the drift you mentioned. At zero it drifts at slow speeds. So that's not placebo. Lowering the brake sensitivity helped me also so I'm less prone to lock up.

Also on the 2nd part of the calibration if you input various amounts of left or right it will affect steering motion. This can be seen by looking at the range of the on screen wheel and arm motion. Again not placebo.

Also try the motion control, tilt steering, I find that very effective - when you get used to it.
 
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IfAndOr
If I do the same I can see the wheels don't turn with initial input. Try setting it to full, 75, and watch the wheels while turning at rest in a external camera.

At zero using the same method as above there is no dead zone at rest or at slow speed. The "dead zone" only occurs due to a speed sensitivity setting that cuts in as you speed up, it smooths the stick inputs. Without it the cars would probably become too twitchy.

The majority of settings in the wheel section have an affect. Try turning all the dead zones to 75 if you want to experience a true deadzones.

I have my deadzone at 4 to prevent the drift you mentioned. At zero it drifts at slow speeds. So that's not placebo. Lowering the brake sensitivity helped me also so I'm less prone to lock up.

Also on the 2nd part of the calibration if you input various amounts of left or right it will affect steering motion. This can be seen by looking at the range of the on screen wheel and arm motion. Again not placebo.

Also try the motion control, tilt steering, I find that very effective - when you get used to it.
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Ill give it a try, the deadzone at 4 you mention just seems odd when coming from PC2
 
AlexWilmot
Ill give it a try, the deadzone at 4 you mention just seems odd when coming from PC2
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I'm assuming it's because I've dropped my controller on the floor a few more times since I tried it in PC2. :)
(I'm usually on a wheel)

I've got some free time so I'm looking into that speed sensitivity thingy. I might be onto something but it could be placebo. :mischievous:
 
My DS4 has always had just a smidgen of play in the neutral stick position since it was new -- not to say I think it's shoddy, just normal. Adjusting for hardware has always been the main point of deadzones. I also use a deadzone of 4 for steering on my DS4.
 
They should definitely add old controller settings, it's so good. Plug & play could be still there. And disabling all helpers should solve my steering problems too.

I am just drifting at Mojave test track and thinking why everything changed :D PC1 is so good.
 
IfAndOr
For the brake locking "problem" - my tip for the day. :)

Try lowering the brake sensitivity in the wheel options menu. It makes it less sensitive to initial brake input and so can help with preventing lockups under light braking. They will will still lock for heavy braking. Originally I dropped mine down considerably, but now I'm getting used to PC3 it has kept back up slightly.

I should add it'll probably take a few laps for your mind to adjust to the changed input curve.
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I have tried that previously, but it didn't really help me. I don't have a load cell brake, so it's hard to judge the travel of the brake pedal, especially when I'm trying to heel-toe at the same time. For cars where that is too much of an issue I just turn ABS on. And it's also better for cars that don't have a clutch and H-shifter, then I don't have to worry about trying to control brake and throttle at the same time with the same foot.

I also miss being able to adjust steering ratio.
 
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Johnnn
PC1 is so good (on pad).
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Things you don't think you'll ever hear. :P

Nice one Johnnn, I can cross that off my list now.


Awong124
I have tried that previously, but it didn't really help me.
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No it possibly won't help everyone but with my G29 I found it gave me a little more pedal travel before the brakes begin to lock.

Awong124
I also miss being able to adjust steering ratio.
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Try turning the wheel more or less than 90° on the 2nd wheel calibration screen. And perhaps the 1st screen as well. Might help.

Awong124
especially when I'm trying to heel-toe at the same time
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You've gone beyond my pay grade now. :D
 
IfAndOr
Try turning the wheel more or less than 90° on the 2nd wheel calibration screen. And perhaps the 1st screen as well. Might help.
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I use a T300, and I can actually set the maximum angle on the wheel through hardware only. It's just annoying to have to potentially have to do that every time I change cars, so I just don't bother.
 
IfAndOr
Things you don't think you'll ever hear. :P

Nice one Johnnn, I can cross that off my list now.
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But it's really strange. I just tried the game after long time to see how bad PC1 was. And since then I can't play anything else :D I play PC1 only and can't imagine anything better. It has 900p which is pretty ugly but gameplay is what I care.
 
Practicing heel-toe is one of the best things about using a wheel over a controller. So fun. Almost makes zig-zag-style circuits worth it.
 
IfAndOr
I'm assuming it's because I've dropped my controller on the floor a few more times since I tried it in PC2. :)
(I'm usually on a wheel)

I've got some free time so I'm looking into that speed sensitivity thingy. I might be onto something but it could be placebo. :mischievous:
Click to expand...

Hmm I could feel any difference with the settings change for the "Controller" and still got a deadzone,
however I did spend some time on the car's actual setup and my word did that change the drift behaviour I've spoken about previously, the stock setups seem very odd to me, applied a more "race car" setup and its much better,
Yes I know stock/OEM cars don't have race car setups but the base standard setup just seemed way off of what I'd regard as normal,

So in closing if anyones reading this, spend the 100credits and spend some time tuning the Brake balance, toe out etc. will improve it massively
 
Getting a bit frustrated with the handling of my RX-7 at Tuscany. I'm trying to drive it like I drive the Escort, at California Hwy 1 in PC2. It ain't working.

The car slides too much as I'm trying to coast on the turns. Too much understeer. Even when I brake lightly. I have to slam on the brakes to stop the car. Then, turn( reminds me of rules for skiing, in Better Off Dead).

I mean, the car drives better at Jerez, with all its turns. Could it be track surface compared to road surface? Some of the road/street courses, the RX-7 is a bit slidey. At Sugo, it's not as slidey.
 
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05XR8
Getting a bit frustrated with the handling of my RX-7 at Tuscany. I'm trying to drive it like I drive the Escort, at California Hwy 1 in PC2. It ain't working.

The car slides too much as I'm trying to coast on the turns. Too much understeer. Even when I brake lightly. I have to slam on the brakes to stop the car. Then, turn( reminds me of rules for skiing, in Better Off Dead).

I mean, the car drives better at Jerez, with all its turns. Could it be track surface compared to road surface? Some of the road/street courses, the RX-7 is a bit slidey. At Sugo, it's not as slidey.
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Are you doing the event Back with an Upgrade?
 
What's the deal with Scheduled races? Every time I try one I qualify and then the race never happens as there's no one to race against...

Also how does the racing license work?
I got rammed off the track in an online lobby of 4 and there's was a down red arrow
 

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