Project CARS General Discussion Thread

  • Thread starter Terronium-12
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Maybe that is precisely the point where it goed wrong... ?
I have (and had) ONLY PCars running and I seem to be missing all of the bugs and glitches...
And it is not that I don't play a lot.
1 in a million. Count yourself lucky as it does seem your the only guy on PS4 not to encounter any issues.
 
1 in a million. Count yourself lucky as it does seem your the only guy on PS4 not to encounter any issues.
I had issues with loss of FFB with my T500RS. Still on occassion with the Fanatec V2.
I had a game crash once before Patch 4.
Pushing my luck, I'm switching to PC now ;)
 
I had issues with loss of FFB with my T500RS. Still on occassion with the Fanatec V2.
I had a game crash once before Patch 4.
Pushing my luck, I'm switching to PC now ;)
PC is the safe option, Seems to be running smoothly on PC since pretty much release. Enjoy :cheers:

Triple screens or one step at a time?
 
Had a play around with changing the controller settings with wheel use (T300) and although the results weren't massively conclusive, I think I noticed a difference. First I took out the M1 Procar (which feels quite floaty in my current setup), did a few laps with controller setting 3, then switched to setting 2 and I'm convinced I could feel the road more as the FFB was different. It was as if the tyre/road contact was more pronounced, not hugely, but there were sections of track at Oulton Int. where I could feel more grip and road surface which was good and made my car less floaty.

I then drove the Radical SR8 (which is fairly new to me) and couldn't feel much difference. I'm thinking it may all depend how the FFB is set for an individual car to be able to really feel any differences. I tried setting 1 which felt the same as 3.

Certainly worth testing out, I'll try it again with some other cars next time I play. I wonder if SMS have shed any light on this yet?
 
That'd be nice because currently it's set on "Angry Touring Car Driver" mode. :P

:lol: Yea it would be nice to get it soon. That way when you set the AI to 95% you can adjust the aggression of them. Idk how they will do it. On a scale from 1-10 or 1-50 or something else. But anyway it would be a good balance. 95% AI plus a little lower aggression. So they are challenging but not trying to wreck you which equals good balance like i said.
 
Agree about the aggression. Started playing for the first time in a few months yesterday and started my first open wheel career in the Gulfs. Man, the aggression didn't bother me a bunch in the GT series but it's dangerous out there in the open wheelers ha ha.
 
I've not had any issues since I deleted my career, and I really only seem to have issues when I overload the information, like when I cant decide on what car I want to drive at the Nord so I do around half a lap then go back and try something else, that coupled with some big crashes causes my system to crash, otherwise I'm fine, I played 7 hours straight on my T500 on PS4 Saturday night and had no issues at all,
 
The AI in open wheelers needs the most work. Complete suicidal nutjobs. Don't they know how fragile those cars are?

That's why i left formula c. It was just frustration all the time. When we get that slider i will go back to the formula route but for now im gonna be doing other series in my career mode.
 
General question here, could someone tell me what the optimal operating temperature should be for brakes? is around 1000 degrees okay? I mainly race Gt3, if that makes any difference.
 
General question here, could someone tell me what the optimal operating temperature should be for brakes? is around 1000 degrees okay? I mainly race Gt3, if that makes any difference.
And to add to that, do brake temps affect tyre temps at all? I've been closing my brake ducts right up recently.
 
General question here, could someone tell me what the optimal operating temperature should be for brakes? is around 1000 degrees okay? I mainly race Gt3, if that makes any difference.

The optimal brake temperature varies from car to car. The easiest way to check if the temperatures are alright is in the telemetry HUD. If the brake symbol is coloured in a really satisfied green, then they are quite right. If the symbol is blue, the brakes are too cold. On the other hand, red means too hot.

Just to be clear, are you talking about degree Celsius or Fahrenheit? 1000 °C is wayyyy too hot for GT3, but 1000 °F seems to be fine.

And to add to that, do brake temps affect tyre temps at all? I've been closing my brake ducts right up recently.

Interesting question. Personally, I am adjusting my brake ducts only to get my brakes in the optimal operating temperature window. Haven't noticed any effect on tyre temperatures but I haven't even paid attention to that so far. Would be cool to have a WMD member with a little bit more insight responding to this.
 
The optimal brake temperature varies from car to car. The easiest way to check if the temperatures are alright is in the telemetry HUD. If the brake symbol is coloured in a really satisfied green, then they are quite right. If the symbol is blue, the brakes are too cold. On the other hand, red means too hot.

Just to be clear, are you talking about degree Celsius or Fahrenheit? 1000 °C is wayyyy too hot for GT3, but 1000 °F seems to be fine.



Interesting question. Personally, I am adjusting my brake ducts only to get my brakes in the optimal operating temperature window. Haven't noticed any effect on tyre temperatures but I haven't even paid attention to that so far. Would be cool to have a WMD member with a little bit more insight responding to this.
thanks, yeah i'm referring to 1000F, i have never noticed a change in the colour of the brakes on the telemetry. Even with temps of 1600F i notice a drop in braking performance but they have never changed to orange/red like the tyres do.
 
thanks, yeah i'm referring to 1000F, i have never noticed a change in the colour of the brakes on the telemetry. Even with temps of 1600F i notice a drop in braking performance but they have never changed to orange/red like the tyres do.
I've had my engineer warn me that my brakes were overheating but like you say, I've never seen them go red on the telemetry. If they go too far over 1000 expect the nagging to start.
 
thanks, yeah i'm referring to 1000F, i have never noticed a change in the colour of the brakes on the telemetry. Even with temps of 1600F i notice a drop in braking performance but they have never changed to orange/red like the tyres do.
If your gt3 brakes are 1100 or higher after a big breaking zone then your ducts need to be opened a little. Yes brake temps have a big effect on tire temps.
 
thanks, yeah i'm referring to 1000F, i have never noticed a change in the colour of the brakes on the telemetry. Even with temps of 1600F i notice a drop in braking performance but they have never changed to orange/red like the tyres do.
I've had my engineer warn me that my brakes were overheating but like you say, I've never seen them go red on the telemetry. If they go too far over 1000 expect the nagging to start.

Oh, so the brake symbol never turns red? I always thought it is analogue to the tyre symbols. What's the colour of the brakes in the telemetry HUD then? Do they stay green?
 
I've seen blue and green, can't recall anything on the way to red. Someone who does a lot of endurance events may shed some better light on it though.
 
I've never seen brake fade from the brakes being to hot in GT3.. I've pushed quite fast laps consistently... 10lap race for example i would see no difference in braking distance.
 
Looks like I will finally have an opportunity to at least rent this sometime in the next 2 weeks. I have a week of paid vacation coming up and should be able to fit this rental in during that week.
 
I've never seen brake fade from the brakes being to hot in GT3.. I've pushed quite fast laps consistently... 10lap race for example i would see no difference in braking distance.
it happens,.... try longer races, or even harder braking.
you will notice that you need a longer braking line!!
 
I did at one point 30Laps and saw now difference, and i the brakes wre hot. Very hot.

SMS set the lifetime for racing brakes (GT3, GTE, LMP1, etc, not Open Wheelers) in the neighborhood of 8 to 12 hours. You'd have to go through a 24H race with full damage/mech failures to get to the point where you'd need to repair brakes.
 
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