Project CARS General Discussion Thread

  • Thread starter Terronium-12
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UkHardcore23
Alegunners settings

Here are my final settings based on icarus2007's settings over at race department. I managed to use 100tf and 100sg with only minimal clipping on high kerbs and hard braking in sharp corners ( which shouldn't be done anyway ).
Please give them a go and see what you think.
CLASSIC PRESET WITH JACK SPADES BUMPS PLUS.
Steering Deadzone = 0

Steering Sensitivity = 50

Throttle Deadzone = 7

Throttle Sensitivity = 50

Brake Deadzone = 7

Brake Sensitivity = 35

Clutch Deadzone = 0

Clutch Sensitivity = 35

Speed Sensitivity = 0

Controller Filtering Sensitivity = 0

Damper Saturation = 0

Force Feedback = 100

Controller Input mode = 3

Soft Steering Dampening = off

Opposite Lock Help = off

************FFB Calibration

Tire Force = 100

Per Wheel Movement = -0.04

Per Wheel Movement squared = 0.04

Wheel Position Smoothing = 7

Deadzone Removal Range = 0.10

Deadzone Removal Falloff = 0.05

Linkage Scale = 0.00

Linkage Stiff = 1.00

Linkage Damp = 1.00

Relative Adj Gain = 174

Relative Adj Bleed = 0.15

Relative Adjust Clamp = 144

Scoop Knee = 0.80

Scoop Reduction = 0.50

Soft Clipping Half = 1.60

Soft Clipping Full = 1.50

Menu Spring = 0.10

Low Speed Spring Coefficient = 1.00

Low Speed Spring Saturation = 0.90

Steering Gain 1.00
Click to expand...
Thanks, is this fine for a t300 or do I need to change anything? Also do I need to adjust anything for each specific car?
 
MrMattAdz
Thanks, is this fine for a t300 or do I need to change anything? Also do I need to adjust anything for each specific car?
Click to expand...
I tend to adjust the Fy slider per car as some cars are heavier and harder to turn in than others. I reduce the value if I'm struggling to turn the wheel as much as I'd like. Most of my other sliders are fairly similar really. I like to feel bumps and have a wheel that's not too stiff.
 
Honestly I'm fine with just looking up the jack spade settings for bumps plus and using it on every car. After that I just adjust a few things and bam. Perfect
 
MrMattAdz
Thanks, is this fine for a t300 or do I need to change anything? Also do I need to adjust anything for each specific car?
Click to expand...
I use default everything on T300 exept DRR at 0.04 and each car has Mz on 90 and Fz (I think it's Fz, whatever is for vertical forces like bumps) on 70. Tire force, overall FFB and each cars master scale are just for wheel weight.
 
4.164GB!!! Just popd up while I was playing! 5.0 is hear!!
 

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Don't console patches contain all previous patches now too?. To prevent the GT5 issues (for example), of downloading 15 patches in a row if you buy the game a year or so after release and having one of them fail and having to restart...

I'm not still bitter.

No you calm down!... 🤬

OKAY!? :banghead:

:lol:
 
Spooky Wooky
Last year I got banned from a gaming forum for using the term "Master Race". The moderators said it had Nazi connotations. True story.
Click to expand...
I got a warning here on GTP for posting a PC Master Race cartoon because out of the 100 or so words on the cartoon, one of them was a swear word, probably the least offensive of the "bad" words, and I failed to notice it. I feel your pain.
 
I wasn't sure whether or not to make a thread for this but does anyone else think the McLaren P1 is the slowest of the hypercars? Alot of the leaderboards seem to have either the Gumpert Apollo or the Ariel Atom at the top (depending on track) and I did seperate hot laps with the Apollo, Lykan and P1 and the Lykan and Apollo were almost 10 seconds faster around Monza than the P1 with me driving all 3. I thought the P1 would be better as it seems to have the best stats and it also has KERS & DRS but that doesn't seem to be the case.
 
JASON_ROCKS1998
I wasn't sure whether or not to make a thread for this but does anyone else think the McLaren P1 is the slowest of the hypercars? Alot of the leaderboards seem to have either the Gumpert Apollo or the Ariel Atom at the top (depending on track) and I did seperate hot laps with the Apollo, Lykan and P1 and the Lykan and Apollo were almost 10 seconds faster around Monza than the P1 with me driving all 3. I thought the P1 would be better as it seems to have the best stats and it also has KERS & DRS but that doesn't seem to be the case.
Click to expand...
10s quicker at Monza? Something doesn't seem right there. Road cars, even such capable ones, I rarely use so I don't talk with any authority on the situation.

I will try this combination this evening or tomorrow afternoon as it sounds interesting.
 
It's even worse once the P1 has depleted it's KERS as it doesn't seem to recharge. It might be a visual error, but once the tyres start to go and the KERS is gone it's a sick tail happy puppy, compared.
 
Scuderia Paul
10s quicker at Monza? Something doesn't seem right there. Road cars, even such capable ones, I rarely use so I don't talk with any authority on the situation.

I will try this combination this evening or tomorrow afternoon as it sounds interesting.
Click to expand...
Well I did the P1 lap time a few days earlier but it was my fastest lap after 3 laps, the Lykan and Gumpert were both first lap laptimes and the Gumpert even had a bit of a slide out of the second chicane. Also the Gumpert, Lykan and CTR3 all seem to place ahead of the P1 in solo races with AI as well compared to the P1.
 
what is the adjustment to have the brake lights to be less bright? I can see them from very far and it does not look natural, more like brake light as you would see them at night in the fog.
 
Cote Dazur
what is the adjustment to have the brake lights to be less bright? I can see them from very far and it does not look natural, more like brake light as you would see them at night in the fog.
Click to expand...
Don't think you can. We also get visible brake lights through scenery and road surfaces so I wouldn't worry too much.
 
Anyone with the T300 wheel getting faded feedback after only doing ten minutes or so of racing? I know it's because of cooling the motor and everything, but it seems that it's becoming more of a problem every time I play PCARS and it really does fade! It's hard to take note of any of the feedback as well so I usually just leave it resting there for ten minutes and let it cool down a bit. Just quite frustrating, and I don't want to lower the settings!
 
Darragh
Anyone with the T300 wheel getting faded feedback after only doing ten minutes or so of racing? I know it's because of cooling the motor and everything, but it seems that it's becoming more of a problem every time I play PCARS and it really does fade! It's hard to take note of any of the feedback as well so I usually just leave it resting there for ten minutes and let it cool down a bit. Just quite frustrating, and I don't want to lower the settings!
Click to expand...
Are you on firmware 25? It's supposed to fix that.
 

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