Ricmotech Sim-Racing Equipment

  • Thread starter Ricmotech
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What about the springs to the left around the shaft which the pedal pivots on, did you leave them in place? Also when you put the metal load cell bracket over the 2 metal posts did you then secure this in place with the original screws?
 
I left the springs in place iirc
and I didn't secure the LC with the original screws.
I only putted some grease on the sides to prevent squeaking.
 
KingKlingeling
I left the springs in place iirc
and I didn't secure the LC with the original screws.
I only putted some grease on the sides to prevent squeaking.
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Thanks for the help mate! What type of grinder did you use as I've only got a 4 1/2 inch metal grinder which I'd be concerned about damaging the rest of the pedal set!
 
It's called "dremel" in germany :D

image.jpg
 
Managed to drill it out so no going back now!!! After you finish does the brake pedal sit forwards of all the others?
 
tmitch
Managed to drill it out so no going back now!!! After you finish does the brake pedal sit forwards of all the others?
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no , the pedal arm is on the same position , I just built some spacers to get the pedalplate more forward, for heel'n'toe and stuff.
 
I like the idea of the pedal but not so keen on the very short travel which I have to say is in no way similar to any real brake pedal I've had in all of the 12+ real cars. I'm thinking about doing as kingklingeling says and build up the pedal plate. Also the load cell is very, very stiff again more so than a real car so not 100% sure I'm convinced as yet.
 
Going to order a set of inverse pedals with gas, clutch, brake and the hanging apperatus for my GT2 project. What is the cost. thanks
 
Ricmotech
I will also be releasing version 2 of our G27 load cell kit in the next week or so.
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Was that released, & do you have a link to it?

Thanks. 👍
 
Hi Guys, I've been running the Ricmotech Load Cell mod for about a year now with GT6. It was ok in GT as you could manage the pressure required to lock the brakes buy just remembering never to max out the pedal. But over the course of the races you'd inevitably get a bit too excited and start pushing harder. The more I pushed the more pressure I needed every time to get full braking. I recently decided to go PC racing and am finding it different, seems like the game calibrates differently. Seems like you straight away need all your strength to get max braking. I wonder if there is a Mod for this Mod to use a Cell that Maxes out at say 50lb's rather than 70?? Looks like something from a bathroom scale, wonder if these things are available anywhere.

Not dissing the product, as I've been happy using it to win races for a while, but it seems the PC games need a bit more finesse than the GT6 I'm used to...

http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=34&product_id=3122_0

This looks like it, but I cannot see a 70lb one? They do a 50lb cell, I wonder if this is what is used and the ratio of the pedal means you need 70lb's of pressure to get max??

EDIT: The one supplied is a 100lb cell. I also found a UK supplier of them for £45.

I'm also going to take my pedals apart to see if I can move the load cell so the pedal ratio gives a more direct effect. Will report back :-)

EDIT: OK, so I attacked my pedal tonight. I moved the Load Cell closer to the pedal on the Ally plate. I only had to drill 2 more 3mm holes. I moved it about 2cm, just the other side of the hole in the pedal frame. I used all the other parts. The plate is obviously up at a steeper angle which means the pedal travels even less. However I had a dead zone before the pedal kicked in so I don't think I've got much different in the way of working travel now. The result is I can now get the MAX of the Load Cell much easier. I'd say If I was using 100% strength to press the pedal to max now, I'm now using 70%. I think I'll leave it here for now and get used to it. The pedal now feels like a stationary race car that you've just bled the brakes on. So the pedal is right up the top and feels hard straight away, no slop! If I have to do any more, I'll come back here and report. ;)
 
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You can always cap the max on the pedal by either getting Leo Bodnar Cable and calibrating using included software or using something like Logitech DIView or DXTweak2. I got the best result with Leo Bodnar Cable, I guess extra resolution is a nice plus.
 
There's no need to change the load cell. When you calibrate the pedal through the game brake set up, just use the amount of brake you want when you set it up. It'll leave a huge dead zone in the pedal, but that's OK because the pedal doesn't work on amount of throw, it works on pressure so nothing is lost.
 
G219
Just got this in my inbox from Ricmotech....they say the force feedback works:


Use Your Logitech Wheel on PS4 and xBox One!We recently discovered these neat adapters that let you use your existing Logitech wheel on the PS4 or your xBox One. This adapter is powered directly off the controller port and lets you plug in the Logitech wheel into it and then plug it into your console. All functions work including the force feedback. This little gadget is a real problem solver for those that already have a Logitech wheel. It works with the Logitech G25, G27, Driving Force GT and the Momo Wheel. There is even a version to make your wheel work on the xBox 360.
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Great to hear the news. Others have tried , however on theirs the force feedback does not work properly.

So I just want to confirm if I purchase your adapter I can expect my G27 to have the same level of force feedback and control as I currently have while playing GT6 ?
 
Not MY adapter at all! Just so we are clear, The bolded part and everything after was the quote from Ricmotech in my inbox. I haven't tried this at all and have no idea of the level of quality. Apologies for the confusion.
 
Here is a new item I'm working on. It' s a little problem solver. Those of you that replaced the wheel on your G27 with an aftermarket wheel, you lost the buttons that were on the original wheel. This little guy can get you those buttons back. It plugs in where the original buttons were plugged into and straps onto one of the wheel spokes. It is made to look like a push-to-talk button but it also has a rocker switch on the top that has 2 more functions. It gives you 3 functions and you can plug in two of these little guys to get 6 functions combined. Since it plugs into the wheel's electronics, there is no dangling cable and it works with the PS3 too. Simple!

It's going to be about $40 and it will come with several labels so you can mark it for whatever functions you prefer. There will be a left and right hand version too. Tell me what you think.
 

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Ricmotech
Here is a new item I'm working on. It' s a little problem solver. Those of you that replaced the wheel on your G27 with an aftermarket wheel, you lost the buttons that were on the original wheel. This little guy can get you those buttons back. It plugs in where the original buttons were plugged into and straps onto one of the wheel spokes. It is made to look like a push-to-talk button but it also has a rocker switch on the top that has 2 more functions. It gives you 3 functions and you can plug in two of these little guys to get 6 functions combined. Since it plugs into the wheel's electronics, there is no dangling cable and it works with the PS3 too. Simple!

It's going to be about $40 and it will come with several labels so you can mark it for whatever functions you prefer. There will be a left and right hand version too. Tell me what you think.
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When... I added my original G27 buttons to my 320mm wheel, but want to do another wheel.
 
@Ricmotech - Any chance of a V3 load cell for theG25/G27 with a pot for changing brake pressure like the CSR Elite has?
 
someone please help me here. Why doesn't the load cell mod for the t500 have an adjustability dial???!!! This is insane! Every load cell based brake pedal out there has this option. Not every one wants to stomp their foot in, and other DO.
My protosimtech PT-1 pedals could be adjusted on the fly. Sadly i sold them to prep for my first born this coming june. lol.

Another thing: why isn't there more progression options? you still need a pad or bushing to simulate hydraulic pressure, and his mod looks like it comes with 2 different skateboard bushings...I'd say that might leave much to be desired for some racers. Those are my critical nitpicks with the load cell mod for the t500. I nearly ordered it, but lack of progression options and lack of adjustability of load is a complete deal breaker.
 
We haven't done any development on a clutch mod. We have not received much interest for it and other projects have taken priority. One such product is this wheel mounted display for the Thrustmaster add-on wheels. It works on the GTE, TM28 and 599XX EVO rims as well as the MOMO conversion wheels we make.
 

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Hi. Yesterday I received my short-throw mod for the TH8A shifter. A couple of questions: is it neccesary to install the rubber thing for the shaft? I've heard it's not durable. Would it be a better idea to use American tape? Also, can the vynil with the Ricmotech decoration be easily removed. Does it leave a lot of glue?
 
It is not necessary to install the rubber sleeve. We removed that step from the instructions, but still ship the sleeve just in case. The vinyl Ricmotech logo edging cannot be removed under any circumstances, kinda like mattress tags ;)
 

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